Buick LeSabre

luvjoy · November 2007

Driver side is the only windowo working!

The rear windows work only after the car has been going at a significant speed for a while.

The Passengers side works only when car is moving (doesn't have to be going fast)and you jiggle the buttons on the driver's side and the passenger does the same!
What a riot, right? The poassenger window was the first one to start acting up! Do you know if this is a master switch problem, or what? I can't figure it out.
Any thoughts,

Thanks to all
Joyce

cali1853 · November 2007

hi guys i'm new to the forum just kind of stumbled on to it. my problem is i have a 94 custom and the service engine light will come on when i start it but i turn it off and start it again and the light is gone. worst of all the car will just shut off when i'm going down the road but will restart after about 5 mins. any help would be greatly appreciated thanks a lot.

ksdad05 · November 2007

Any hints on removing the blower motor? Discussions with the dealer service manager points to bad brushes, but I'm having a hard time removing the thing. Any help appreciated!

imidazol97 · November 2007

Try this link: Remove Heater Blower 2003

It's apparently fairly easy. It's done inside the car. I believe I recall someone takng their blower apart and finding contacts inside not touching and adjusting the wires or something and the thing worked again. He was an engineer, and like me, he's not afraid to take things apart.

ksdad05 · November 2007

Thanks for the link, unfortunately the LeSabre has dual climate control and is vastly different from that depicted in the link.
I thought I had it but there must be one more screw hidden somewhere...

Thanks for the input!

imidazol97 · November 2007

The 03 service manual doesn't make a distinction between the standard air conditioning and the dual electronic control as far as how the heater blower comes out. It's my understanding 00-05 or 05 when the last were produced were all the same car.

pflyer · December 2007

Hi,

One more very minor problem. The heated seat backlighting on the driver's side is inop. The Hi/Low light works, but the backlighting for the pushbutton switch is inop. Any ideas?

Thanks.

mariannesam · December 2007

Any body know what may be causing my AC to not blow cold one day and then work the next time I restart? Its intermittent. Could it be the outside light or temp sensor?
Thanks.

the_ern89 · December 2007

Hello all, I acquired an 89 Lesabre from my mother-in-law. It is in pretty good shape with 63,000 miles. However, the interior "courtesy lights" (dome, door, & reading lights) stay on constantly, which tends to drain the battery. I have pulled the fuse as a short-term fix, and checked all of the switches in the dome lights and door switches. I want to test a relay for this circuit, as this is indicated in my repair book wiring diagrams. But, I'm not sure if it actually exists, since I cannot find a part # for it at the stores or online. Any ideas?? Thanks for your help!

khazyari · December 2007

My Mom has a 2002 lesabre custom, the blower motor was having some problems, she took it to a local garage (she is new to area and this young man was recommended to her) who then took a zip tie, did something in the engine from below and the fan worked all the way home. she was told that the blower motor was burned out and needed to be replaced. This is going to cost her over 100 dollars. My question is how can the fan run if the motor is no good - what could he have done with the zip tie to make the fan run without the blower motor?

puzzledinpa · December 2007

Any luck with this problem. i have a 97 doing the exact same thing. Blower motor runs great when you start it up. Turn the car off and on and the blower with not come on. Very intermittent. I also believe it is a senor/ground. It is driving me nuts.
thanks,
bill

mariannesam · December 2007

Unlike your blower being intermittent, my AC blower always works, the air is just sometimes warm. I figured out it must be the AC high pressure switch that's the problem. When it wasn't cold, just tapped the switch and it started to blow cold. So I have to replace the switch in the high pressure line. I think its about a $20 part from the dealer.

sprinterpa · January 2008

My LeSabre randomly switches from the vents to the defrost vents when on AC or heat. It seems to prefer the defrost vents. Is this the default position. I'm suspecting a vacuum issue but I don't know where to start looking. Any suggestions?

imidazol97 · January 2008

To answer where to look, if you can get under the passenger side of the dash, take off the hush panel that's above the passenger's toes. IT's about 3 screws and two taps on the firewall holding it in. I would take off the 7 screws holding the glovebox door onto the bottom edge of the dash.

Then look straight in and you'll see a box perched on the end of the heater box that's about the size of a paperback dictionary. It has 1/8 inch plastic lines coming out of it. Those go through a connector that's held on the corner of the box but is removeable when the cover of the box is snapped off. There is a nut in the middle with a long bolt sticking up.

Check the purple vacuum line that goes over to the right of the car and up to meet the black vacuum line from under the hood. This line supplies the vacuum. You can pull off the connector which has been stuck on since the car was new, and test to be sure you're getting vacuum all the time.

If not, check under the hood where the vacuum line connects into the intake and draws the vacuum. It might be loose or damaged.

You could have a problem with the vacuum storage tank under the right front fender. It's in front of the wheel. There's a single line that snaps onto it that comes from a Y in front of the accumulator for the AC freon. That plastic tank might be cracked.

Most likely your problem is the clear connector for the 5 vacuum lines on the corner of the programmer. The two parts of the connector squeeze together. The plastic tends to collapse under vacuum and shut off the vacuum that should go to the 4 lines controlling the air flow. If you are in AC mode that means the doors don't close for the AC vents and the air continues on up and out the defroster. That line seems to be the one failing at the connector. If you can move between heat, heat and winshield, and defrost while the car's running, you probably have vacuum to the inside okay.

If you determine your problem is the connector, I can show you pictures of how to cut the lines inside and outside the connector and reconnect them by putting on 1/8 inch internal diameter gas line rubber (scrap box at auto parts place will usually give you a 6 inch piece to cut little 1" pieces from). The color of the line outside the connector is different from that inside the programmer box on the short little piece of line that's inside. Make a list. I have read of people who got the connector apart (plastic usually sticks and rips) and punched through the thin plastic blocking the vacuum.

There's a slight change you have another problem in the electrical controls. But I would look for vacuum first.

sprinterpa · January 2008

Wow! You have obviously dealt with this before! Thank you for the quick reply and information. It should warm up above freezing here tomorrow so I will try to look at the things you wrote about. (no garage!) Again, thank you for your quick reply!

imidazol97 · January 2008

The one thing that bothers me about your description is that it comes and goes. Most people say if it's the vacuum lines, it quits and stays that way until car restarts. It might be a leaking vacuum hose from the motor to the Accumulator area to the tank under the front fender. It could be the tank cracked.

Does it fit any pattern of higher vacuum with high motor speeds without load giving better vacuum and pulling the vacuum motors on the doors inside to their right position?

Try running the motor and then shutting it off and very quickly pressing different buttons to see if the doors move with vacuum for up to 30 seconds. Do it once just to listen for a vacuum leak as soon as the motor stops turning. You might hear a leak at the tubing under the hood too.

sprinterpa · January 2008

I haven't been able to establish a pattern to it. I've tried putting the engine in neutral and rev the engine a bit . . . no change . . . let the engine idle . . . not change. I've tried pushing the buttons for defrost, vent, and heat and they have no effect either. Last summer I would put the AC on vent and it would randomly blow air out the vent, then shift to the defrost vents for a long time, then shift back to the vents. Now when I run the heat, the same thing is happening. I can't wait to try some of the things you mentioned.

wornslick · January 2008

I have a 1993 Buick LaSabre with 219,000 miles on it that I use as my work car. It still runs great and I drive it 180 miles a day, 5 days a week. The problem I am having is the windows are watering up on the inside while it is parked and when it is cold enough ice forms. I have made sure that the heater is in the off postion. Does anyone have any idea what is causing this? :confuse: Thank You,

Wornslick

imidazol97 · January 2008

What you didn't say is good. If it is the heater leaking, you would have said you get high humidity coming up on the windows as the blower run and when the coolant gets hot the humidity increases greatly onto the windshield. AND you smell coolant.

Since you didn't say that,
I suspect you have water on the floor of the car. Try poking around pressing on the carpet in low spots. You can get water running in because the plastic liner behind the door panels lets go from the metal. That liner makes the water coming in around the windows go outward and get to the drains in the bottom of the door.
You might check those drains to be sure they're open.

Also seals around the edge of the door, those thick rubber seals, shrink and leave gaps. Check those around the doors.

Then look in the trunk. See if there' water in the spare wheel well. If you have a leak into the trunk it sometimes goes there and you never notice it unless you notice the humidity when you open the trunk.

Also check the rear wells in the trunk that are behind the rear wheels. They should have a drain of some type at the bottom to let water out if any accumulates in there.

Happy hunting.

wornslick · January 2008

Thanks for the reply and advice imidazol97. I will star hunting Monday.

Wornslick

buickfred · January 2008

buickfred · January 2008

Can some one help me. The car was running fine an then one morning I get in it and go to leave but when I gave it gas it just barley moved, even when I pumped the gas, the futher I went the faster it got. But then I had to stop and when I went to take off again it didnt want to move.I have changed the coil mod.And the tranmission speed sincor. Sorry if that is mis spelled. Anyway now the care wont stay running if I go to slow down it just dies. And when these parts were changed now the speed domitor (sp) dont work. Can anyone help me, before I put a match to it. PLEASE

dewmaster · January 2008

i have a 94 buick lesabre and i have recently put new drums and shoes on the rear. The shoes keep stick when i come to a complete stop. ive adjusted them multiple times to where they need to be. what am i missing???

daimon · January 2008

I purchased a Battery Saver Plus for my 1989 Buick Le Sabre, but unfortunately the plug wouldn't fit into the lighter socket and I had to recharge it at my local gas station. Thus my alternative, according to www.4lots.com, is to "...attach the [solar] panel directly to the battery. This may be done by: A) Cutting off the cigarette lighter attachment and attaching the stripped wires directly to the battery, Negative to Negative (Black to Black) and Positive to Positive."

First question: is this risky? And if not, do I simply loop each wire around the terminal, starting with the negative one? Thanks in advance.

Kevin

dewmaster · January 2008

i had a similar problem with my 94 lesabre. mine ended up being the TPS (throttle position sensor. its located at the end of the throttle cable below the upper radiator hose.

dewmaster · January 2008

were u able 2 get a code for it? i had a similar problem with my 94 lesabre and it turned out to be the TPS (throttle position sensor) located at the end of the throttle cable right below the upper radiator hose and air inake. its about 50 bucks at advanced. u will need a flexible screw driver and a philips head. not difficult to recplace. just make sure the engine is cool or ull burn urself on the exhaust pipes

dewmaster · January 2008

u can get the same amount of enhanced performance by buying a k & n air filter. i bought one for my 94 lesabre and it works wonderfully. i can definately notice a large increase of power. plus the air filter is cheaper then a whole intake

dewmaster · January 2008

they sell a ac compressor bypass pulley if ur interested http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ACBypassPulley/Buick/LeSabre

jswampy · February 2008

i wish my 87 would run nevermind the music

daimon · February 2008

I have Battery Saver Plus solar charger that unfortunately is a hair too big to fit snugly into my (1989 Buick LeSabre) cigarette lighter socket, and thus unable to charge. Is there any way of knowing what female lighter adapter to purchase that will fit into my 1989 car's lighter socket? I've seen some advertised with multiple female adapters, but again, am not certain if the 'male' socket would fit. Thanks in advance.

Kevin

petet2 · February 2008

If you have never replaced the springs that pull the brake shoes together, this could be the problem. Heat in the brake area weakens the tension over time. Also the wheel cylinders could have contaminated fluid in them (read that water, dirt, etc...) Often times completely flushing the brake fluid will help. You need to bleed them until the fluid comes out clean. Make sure you keep the master cylinder full when you do this.

morningsunset · February 2008

I recently purchased '85 LaSabre, was mechanically redone, runs and rides great.
I am looking for sources for the piece that goes between the metal bumper and the
body of the car. It appears to be rubber, but has cracks and pieces missing.
Thanks for any input

skipbooo777 · April 2008

Ok I bought a 92 LeSabre in March of 2007. Never really had any problems with it until the summer time came when my harmonic balancer went on it. well i got that fixed and then by the time september came the car did not want to go into gear when you started it up and wanted to go. I had to drop it into 1st gear rev the engine then drop it back into park and put it in OD. Then it would go into gear and it was fine. Then when it would sit for a few hours it would do the same thing again. I was told to put some TransX in it and that worked for a few months. Now 2 days ago it would not go into gear at all. Thank god I got it home before it stopped moving. I was told that it could be the filter or the tranny but I dont know what it is. It will move when the engine is cold but once it warms up it stops moving. Right before the tranny went on it my rpms went up high as if in neutral and I was reving the engine. If anyone can help me please help I need my car.

bigchas · April 2008

WHATS THE EASYIEST WAY TO GET TO THE SPARK PLUGS IN THE BACK OF THE ENGINE?

gleppert · June 2008

My wife and I are looking for a third vehicle for the kids to drive. We need safe, reliable and relatively inexpensive. I have been offered a '03 LeSabre. If you are an owner and would like to comment on any issues regarding our above mentioned requirements -as well as a reasonable price to pay on a vehicle with 45K miles - we would be much obliged. Thanks.

suydam · June 2008

An excellent "kids to drive" vehicle. Big, not too fast, and gets decent gas mileage but not so great they'll be driving everywhere. A LeSabre was my middle son's first car, and he actually bought a second one with his own money later on. His is a '98 that has been reliable and trouble-free. I don't think it's had anything but routine maintenance and tires. He also bought it with about that mileage. Reasonable price depends on where you live -- check out local postings in your newspaper to get a ballpark price. Also check out Edmund's used car prices on this website. If you ever do have a problem most mechanics are very familiar with buicks and parts are not expensive.

imidazol97 · June 2008

I would second that. Most people will view this as a large car that doesn't get good gas mileage, but in reality around town it can deliver 22.5-24 in easy suburban driving. On open road portions, it hits 30-35 at 55-65. So you may be able to make lower offer if private owner and pick it up.

The only caveat is to make sure the coolant DexCool has been changed at 36K miles with fresh. And make sure the system is completely filled with no airr in the radiator or heat core. Some people convert to the Mixes with all Colors by Prestone instead of DexCool; they have the same 4 ingredients on the packages now. DexCool formula was changed in the past and the 03 probably has the new formula.

Brakes at 70 K miles usually can just slap a new set of ceramic GM or Bendix pads on them without replacing the rotors. Don't try to machine the rotors that were the originals.
Rears, same.

saclfa · June 2008

I have a 1993 buick lesabre. The climate controls constantly cycles through the buttons. If you try to push the button for the de frost or anything it keeps cycling through the rest of the buttons. Its not digital.

alfetta · June 2008

My engine light on my 95 LeSabre is always on. The engine runs smoothly while idling. If however, while idling, I push the gas pedal past the half way point, it runs very rough as if it's not getting any gas: almost the same sound as if I were to push and let go the gas pedal very fast on a well running engine. Additionally, most of the time while going up hill the engine chokes and shakes while it crowls to a stop (engine is still trying to run). Sometimes it pick itself up if I take my foot off the gas pedal.
I managed to get a code of P0321. I looked it up and found some text as follows:
Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input: Circuit Range/Performance.
Does anyone out there knows what needs to be replaced?

Thanks
Frank

imidazol97 · June 2008

I do not know what may be the problem. There is the electronic head where the buttons are located. And there is a small programer box for the manual AC system that the head directs to switch between vacuum lines to change the doors inside the heater box to make the air go where you want it.

Does anytthing else not work right like the power door locks or power windows--on a regular basis or occasionally? If that's the case and it matches with the AC not working right, you might have a corroded buss connection for the grounds for some things in the dash area. There is a ground connector with a metal bar in it that grounds several different things and it's under the door sill right where the driver's feet go in and out.

You might try a control unit from a junkyard or check for price on rockauto.com or GMpartsdirect.com.

imidazol97 · June 2008

I do not know what may be the problem. There is the electronic head where the buttons are located. And there is a small programer box for the manual AC system that the head directs to switch between vacuum lines to change the doors inside the heater box to make the air go where you want it.

Does anytthing else not work right like the power door locks or power windows--on a regular basis or occasionally? If that's the case and it matches with the AC not working right, you might have a corroded buss connection for the grounds for some things in the dash area. There is a ground connector with a metal bar in it that grounds several different things and it's under the door sill right where the driver's feet go in and out. But it's symptoms of poor connections are thtat sometimes something works and other times it doesn't. Mine on a 93 was the AC lost all control and went to defroster with the compressor running and the power door locks wouldn't work. Then they would fix themselves after a while.

You might try a control unit from a junkyard or check for price on rockauto.com or GMpartsdirect.com.

gchecksfield · June 2008

Changed oil on 2000 LeSabre that has 38,000 miles on it. Removed filter first. Four quarts of oil drained through the post that the filter attaches to. About 1/2 quart was in the pan. After refilling and driving about 2 miles I removed the filter; about 4-5 ounces of oil came through, noticeably more than is expected when removing a filter. The oil pressure gauge says oil pressure is fine, about 65 pounds when driving. Anyone know the problem, the solution? Is the car driveable as it is? Thanks.

sprinterpa · July 2008

If you solve this problem, please post the answer as I'm having the same issue on my 98 LeSabre.

lesabre1 · July 2008

my hvac fan continues to run after ignition switch is turned off. I can only kill it if I oull the big ac fuse or the plug to the back of the fan its self. Is there another relay somewhere that could be stuck?

imidazol97 · July 2008

If you have automatic air temperature control and your car is 1992 up, you have a blower control module that adjusts the blower speed.

Blower control module would be the first suspect. It's on top of the blower motor housing on the firewall. Follow the wires from the blower motor to the control module. It's a 4 inch by 1 inch piece which sticks its electronics inside the air path in front of the blower motor to keep cool. The relay housing above can be lifted up to gain access to the screws by removing 1 or two bolts holding it against the upper firewall.

You should turn on the key, press the OFF switch on the automatic air system and let the unit cycle to off. Then turn key to OFF and disconnect battery to be safe working around these parts. A few people believe their Automatic Climate Control computer messed up after being left ON and having the battery disconnected.

The blower control modules are available at Advance Auto, your recycler yard (may also have failed), and wherever you find at rockauto.com, gmpartsdirect.com, etc. There might be something else, but this is the most common.

lesabre1 · July 2008

Thanks, yes it is a '94 and it does have automatic climate control. Is this relay accessible from the hood compartment or from below the dash?

imidazol97 · July 2008

fUnder the hood. Behind the motor. You'll see the round blower motor and it's 5 or 6 screws that hold it in. Follow the wires.

vincem1948 · July 2008

Recently (April 08), the GAS CAP LOOSE indicator showed up on dash panel. I replaced the cap with a new gas cap but the light would not go off. Next day the SERVICE ENGINE SOON indicator came on and I took it to the local Firestone dealer. They asked if I ever ran the engine while I was putting gas in the tank - NO - and did I keep putting gas in after the nozzle clicked off - NO. They ran the usual tests and the only code in the system was for a loose gas cap. They replaced my new gas cap (from the dealer) with an after market one and reset the codes and charged me for a diagnostics test and a new gas cap. A couple of weeks and about 6 fillups later (I drive about 97 miles round trip to work each day) about half way to work one morning the GAS CAP LOOSE light came on again. When I got to get a cup of coffee, I checked the gas cap and it was on tight. When I started the car, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came on and I drove directly to Firestone. This time they ran some more tests, including a "smoke" test. There were no indications of any pressure leaks but the code indicated a problem with the vapor canister valve and emission control. A couple of hundred dollars later, they reset the codes (and replaced the aftermarket gas cap with a dealer gas cap). Needless to say, I've taken it back 3 more times for the same GAS CAP LOOSE and SERVICE ENGINE SOON problem. They have not been able to find anything else in the codes and after the last time they informed me that they would have to start charging me if I brought it back in again for the same problem. The manager say that they could not find anything wrong and since it was not hurting anything, I'd have to "live" with it unless I was willing to "pay" for a more detailed "in-depth" diagnostics and trouble-shooting repair.

Can anyone help me? I'm don't have the money for a more detailed "in-depth" diagnostics and trouble-shooting repair.

Vince

julie23 · August 2008

Wondering if you found solution to your AC problem? I have a 2003 LeSabre with same problem. Car only has 15,000 miles on it. The AC worked great when I bought it in April 2008, About 2 weeks ago, the AC started blowing hot and cold intermittently. Had the system checked and fully recharged - they can't find anything. The blower always runs when I turn it on - but sometimes it will only blow hot air - and sometimes cold. When it blows hot, it will be anywhere from a few minutes to hours before it turns cold again. My car is back in the shop today and they are still saying they can't find anything - of course it is blowing cold for them at the shop! Any suggestions?

tempo9 · August 2008

Hello:

My disabled son is choosing between a 1998 Buick LeSabre with 83,000 miles on it in pretty good condition; we are getting it inspected tomorrow and will get a CarFax report as well. car is being sold by "Louiie's Cars" (not real name)... runs and rides well. Dealer wants 4995.
The other car is a garage kept 2000 Park Avenue loaded with 107k miles sold by an elderly gent for 6,000. Car is in pristine condition; we haven't driven it yet.
Question: If the Park Ave is in good running/mechanical condition which would be the wisest choice? He has very little money and doesn't know how to fix cars.
HELP!

Thank you
Tempo9 (devoted to my Toyota Highlander

Buick LeSabre

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