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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro



  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    97gmcsafari, you might want to post your question in the Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems that are driving you crazy discussion, to see if the folks there have the answer.


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  • gaulaisgaulais Posts: 3
    When my 2Safari 2000 90K miles do not want to start, I then disconnect the Air Flow Meter electrical connection, and after that it will fire up like a new one. I recconect the module after and here I go. Oops not really. When I'm drivig at any speed, sometime put not always, the engine will shut down for a fraction of a second and restart. The fuel pump look ok to me + the air filter is new...
    And since yesterday it sometime stall when I stop at a light or at a stop sign.

    My dealer does not have a clue on what going on since the computer does not give any code or light and because the problems occurs"> accasionnaly.

    Any body can help ? Thank :confuse:
  • tkwtkw Posts: 29
    My mechanic told me that fuel pump malfunction would not register a code. When My '98's fuel pump failed just barely out of warranty, it stalled intermittently like yours. You can try knocking on the side of the fuel tank with a mallet next time it stalls. If it starts again, you can zero in on the fuel pump and do more testing. BTW, a plugged fuel filter will have similar symptom too.
  • Thanks, I'll post it there!
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    Welcome to the Forums, gaulais!

    The folks in the discussions below might have the answers to your problems. Just click the links to get there:

    "No Start" Problems

    Idle or Stalling Problems: All Vehicles


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  • steve34steve34 Posts: 4
    Wow! You are having exactly the same symptoms as my 2000 Astro with 96,000kms. Same stories from my favorite shop and also the Dealer. I have now spent $400 on a tune-up replacing plugs, fuel filter, air filter, distributor cap, and rotor. No improvement!! Plus $200 diagnosing the problem with the same results. Suspect it is the fuel pump too. I just hope it will fail one of these days so I know for sure! It is expensive to pull the tank and replace the pump on a guess! It just ran for a whole week with no problem and then started acting up again yesterday! Let me know if you have ny success solving your problem!
  • gaulaisgaulais Posts: 3
    Yesterday I install a fuel pressure gauge and it will sit on the floor of the van has long that it will take. Right now the fuel pump is working perfectly up to 60 psi during priming time; 52 - 54 at idle; and up to 60 when cruising. Now I'm just waiting for the van to go crazy and see if it is really the fuel pump. Honnestly I not so sure because of the unrelated link be twin the disconnection of the air flow control meter and the fuel pump when it wont start.
  • steve34steve34 Posts: 4
    That's great. I was thinking of doing the same thing to verify fuel pump problem. I will keep my credit card in my wallet until I see how you make out! It may take you a while as mine just ran super for a week and then started acting up again. Please keep me posted.
  • steelysteely Posts: 1
    Small plastic vvacuumtube from the condensior towards the dash. Instead of replacing the tube I found the crack/break and used srink tubing (Radio Shack $.50) to fix the gap. 4th July weekend, took 5 mins to fix, how long will it last? Better then spending the day pulling of the dog house. If it wasn't fixed I'd be kicking my dogs out of their house to sleep.
  • swimfan2swimfan2 Posts: 2
    Have someone check the b-pillar seam weld. It is at the top of the Pillar right behind the driver door!
  • gaulaisgaulais Posts: 3
    I finaly found the problem. The pink (hot) wire for the crankshaf sensor was broken (cut loose) in the plastic envelop. They were not contynuitie All that because the wires from the sensor were to tied around the big ground connection near by. Even they other wire (yellow and blank) were half cut. Tank to Haynes electrical diagram. :)
  • yidiyidi Posts: 1
    i had the same problem with astro and safari
    change the window motor
  • rljesrljes Posts: 3
    My 94 GMC Safari will not start. The fuel pump will not energize when the key is turned on. I'm positive the fuel pump and relay are good. The wiring from the relay to the pump is good. I can get he fuel pump to run if I apply batery voltage to the test lead near the fuel pump relay. I've changed the ECM because it didn't illuminate the Service Engine Light, also it didn't allow me to check for fault codes through the dash light. The engine turns over fine but won't start. All of my fuses (on the fuse block, I didn't find any others) are good. :confuse: I'm stuck, need help
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    Welcome to the Forums, rljes! I see that you've already found our "No Start" Problems discussion in the Maintenance & Repair Forum and have asked your question there too. Hope you get some good advice on solving your problem.

    ClaireS, Host
    Coupes & Convertibles | Vans & Minivanns


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  • rljesrljes Posts: 3
    Thanks for your help in joining the discussion. I just really hope someone out there has a suggestion that'll work.
  • oscar5oscar5 Posts: 1
    hello I have the same problem in my safari 1997, please tell me if you fix your astro.


  • baytexbaytex Posts: 1
    Anyone have a clue as to the Gross Weight of a 1992 Astro?
  • jkolakjkolak Posts: 2
    Hi all,
    Hope you can help me with a lemon I have owned for five years, and spent $3800 on in the last 18 months. The mystery problem.....engine has a misfire at low rpm, three dealers have scoped it...nothing but emission codes....have installed a new egr, plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel injectors, cap, rotor. Have unhooked every part of the emission control system one at a time to fool the computer....nothing.
    All that works is to replace the cap and rotor....that buys me around 150 miles of carefree driving. then, time for a new cap and rotor. Inside of cap has no wear marks, but looks like some kind of corrosion, or coating on the contacts. If your step on the gas hard, she runs fine.,...low speed, or even cruise control on the highway, and you have a miss....It is not rain related......please help!
  • I have a 90 gmc safari. my problem is that i keep popping the gauge fuse. On my instrument panel my only gauge is oil and battery nothing else works. Took it to the shop and cost me over 200 dollars for nothing. Please help!!! :lemon:
  • n977lln977ll Posts: 4
    2005 Model year is the last for the Chevy Astros/GMC Safari per Car and Driver.
  • jes2jes2 Posts: 1
    i was driving along & my 98 astro van just died. the radio was still playing but the engine went dead? when i turn the key to the on possession everything works fine . when i try to start the engine everything goes dead, and the engine wouldn't turn over :cry: . normally when you start the engine cold the gages all reset but the gages are all staying stuck at their last readings, but, i do see that the alternator gage is at zero, i didn't notice this while driving :P :mad: and all the other ones are stuck at a normal setting. . could the alternator of gone bad? or could it be the ignition stitch? or a fuse block?
  • giant44sgiant44s Posts: 4
    replace the oil pressure sender. there are three wires for the oil pressure sender. put a jumper wire between the orange wire and the grey wire. the fuel pump should now energize when the key is turned on, if it does, replace the sender.
  • suzan3suzan3 Posts: 1
    Same thing happened to me. ('95 GMC Safari). We are in a heat wave, the air conditioner kicked long ago. (not worth fixing). Tried the motor (not). Tried the switchs (not) And it was unbearable driving in this heat with the passenger window up.

    But thanks to this forum - YAY - I just fixed it! yayayayay Someone said to slice open the rubber boot between the door and body and look for a broken blue wire. Sure enough - I found the same thing. Twisted it back and wrapped it with electrical tape and yay - the window finally went down!

    Thanks to ? who posted on this forum. I owe ya a beer! :D
  • edbd1sedbd1s Posts: 3
    Before my mechanic takes a couple hundred from me to replace a fuel pump, I want to install a new fuel pump relay, just in case. I have a 94 Chevy Astro. How do I find where to replace it?
  • Hi Tom

    you seem to know your vans can you help me with this wiper problem. In you message you state

    Turns out more often than not, the connector (covered in rubber) tends to come loose. We used tie-wraps (no kidding) to hold them snug. It works, don't laugh and it saves about $200 in repairs.

    Can you tell me where i find this connector covered in rubber I have a 94 astro and I can leave the wipers on and sometimes they come on by themselves and sometimes they wont. when they do work they will turn off on thier own as well. it is very frustrating. I do not know much about under the hood but if I get an idea of how something works I can usually get my head around it.. any help would be much appreciated.

  • ad600ad600 Posts: 1
    There is a re-call on wiper motor. I have 97 Astro luck for me I didn't fix it right away. I was sent a letter tell us about the re-call. you might give your dealer
    a call. hope this help.
  • stecam78stecam78 Posts: 1
    hey all, my brother has a 92 astro van awd with 4.3. His cut out on him driving down the road one day and would not restart. He changed the fuel filter and it started and drove, but with lack of power, A week later he stopped at a gas station and went to restart it and it wouldn't. When you turn the key on to ignition, you can hear the pump kick in. He is bound and determined, plus blockheaded, so I got to ask any ideas???
  • Been a week now and 91 Safari still not going,no warning just up and stop running. I changed the fuel pump,fuel filter,fuel relay switch,I tried four sets of injectors,changed the fuel pressure regulator assembly three times,changed IAC value,throttle Position sensor,MAP sensor,I tested all wires there is power to them,I tried a different computer box,van will not give me any trouble codes The van has Model 220 TBI , 4.3 liter V6 engine

    After all that injectors will not open,I hear the gas going,but they just won't open the injectors

    I'm looking for any help or suggestions on this issue,I'm almost at the end of the rope on this issue with the van
  • I have been chasing codes and repairing the components that would trigger a code.

    The only code (other that 12) left is...
    Problem: Code 83 - TCC PWN Solenoid Circuit Fault
    Rough idle in neutral, almost dies when put into gear. Excessive vibration

    There is no terminal F wire present at the ALDL so I couldn't check for voltage there.

    I checked the fuse for "Gages" and I see voltage across both terminals with a DMM.

    I checked the tan/black wire at the 20 pin connector at the passenger side of the transmission and there was no voltage with the key in the on position. There is supposed to be lettered markings on the male or female end of the plug but I couldn't see any indication of letters molded into either side of the plug. I also cleaned the plug with contact cleaner.

    I went to check for 12 volts across the brake switch which is described in a TCC test procedure. The procedure references one of two possible brake switches, an upper switch with a vacuum hose and two wires, or, according to the document, there is a lower switch with four wires. The document is ambiguous as to whether one or both of these systems are present on the van.

    As I am poking around trying to find these components, (which I still have to find) I put my hand on a solenoid that actuates a plunger that has a cable attached to the end and two wires attached to the solenoid, which is attached to the steering column. The solenoid gets so hot when the key is "ON" that I could not leave my finger on the solenoid for a half of one second before it burned my finger! It is located on the steering column and actuates when the brake pedal is depressed a small amount.

    I am sure that this is a problem because any solenoid that gets that hot has a problem. I do not know the name of this component to get a replacement, so...

    Question #1 - What is the name of this component so I can tell the parts store the correct name for them to look it up on their computer database?

    Question #2 - What brake connections do I need to check for voltage beyond the one listed above. I initially could not find a typical brake switch which would be a plunger with two wires connected and attached to the brake pedal directly. I can see where the typical mounts for this type of switch would be located, but nothing is in the mount.

    Question #3 – Are there other circuits that need to be tested in the TCC circuits.

    I have asked this question on other forums, with no responses. I hope that one of the readers of this post can assist me.

    Thanks, James
  • hategmhategm Posts: 8
    Baltamore Asm shut down in May. somwhere between 3-4 million M vans were buit. My family has owned 4 in 20 yrs. My currnent one has problems. Just fixed the AC vacuum problem.
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