By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
The A/C probably takes a lot more out of the fuel economy too because its a 4cyl. Driving with A/C on is like driving with an extra 3-400 pounds on the car which sucks more power out of the 4cyl than a 6cyl
It's been a pretty cool summer so far so I've not used the air much. I think things will get better, it's just taking longer than I hoped.
I remember taking our old Cavalier to Speedy once and they wanted to replace everything on a car with 50K on it. I took it to the GM dealer and they charged my hundreds less and only grinded the rotors and replaced the brake pads.
I've just learned my lesson the hard way. Even though you buy a new car, it doesn't mean that it isn't going to still cost you in the long run. Oh well
The brake pads wore out and scratched rotors at 23k miles. I thought, it happened early because the rotors were warped a bit. Additionally, the car was severely rear-ended 700 miles before this happened. My wife braked strong when was hit, to not hit hard the next car ahead of her. Must be hard on brakes.
However, at 45k mile service, the second set of pads turned to be 90% gone. So, currently I believe that, with my driving pattern and style, the pads live for 22-23k miles only. Will check it at 65k miles or so.
However, my commute is through suburb with hilly and winding streets, and a city with a lot of traffic lights. Do not drive on highways often.
I remember talking to a tech at Midas and he told me that most people in metro areas get around 30-40K kms out of their pads. Our Intrigue has almost 50K on it and it's still on originals as it does a lot of highway drives.
Dindak is right, brakes used with city driving should last at least 40k and probably 50-60 with highway driving. (I am still on a set of aftermarket pads and have over 50k on them and they are still only 60% worn)
It seems that the rotor problem is very common among older Aleros. There have been several posts regarding them. But 4 sets seems extreme. Im not sure what GM did to cure the problem for the later models but the dealership should have replaced them with better rotors while the waranty was still active. I'm not sure if you can go back on the dealer now but check out the older posts in this room. Now that your warranty is over I would suggest a local mechanic for future brake work.
This is not the case with all franchises however. After receiving a quote of $1500 at one Speedy to get his car certified, my brother in law asked me to look at it. After looking at the work order and inspecting the car there was more than $850 worth of bogus work "needed". I took the same car to a different Speedy myself and told them what I thought it needed for the safety and they did exactly what I told them it needed for $640. Needles to say its a crap shoot with these places.
What I would recomend is a small local mechanic. If he is in the neighborhood, he can't afford to be badmouthed and I have found most of them to be honest. Better yet, get a refferal from a friend who uses one close by. Another good way is to check with the BBB. They will have a list of garages with previous complaints. Most places will still have a few complaints but theBBB will be able to tell you of the worst offenders.
On the other hand, now that I am driving a new car, I will take it to the dealer for work until the warranty expires. After that I will still use them for diagnostic or other major work because they know the car the best. But minor stuff like brakes, exhaust, tires, etc. I will take it to my local mechanic (if I have no time to do it myself). Hope this helps.
mij325 : We have both an 02 Alero and an 00 Intrigue. Both are good but I would generally avoid both of their first years. Many 98 Intrigues had brake and steering shaft issues and some 99 Aleros had water leak problems. Always best to go with as late a model as you can as the bugs get fewer and fewer. We have been very happy with both cars.
I would be most appreciative for any input!!!!
I need to make this decision by tomorrow, July 2nd. HELP!
Well, the 99 Alero is a fine car, as a good friend of mine has one. However, you neglected to mention details like sedan/coupe, engine size, etc.
With all the great deals and improvements they've made to the Alero, I'd pony up a little extra dough for a 2002. The new 4 cylinder engine is a nice improvement over the 2.4 in the 1999.
With the 2002, you get more standard features plus a 5/yr 60,000 bumper-bumper warranty.
The alero is a nice step up from the prizm...something you'll enjoy driving for a long time.
While I sympathize, your issues do not mean the car is bad. It means you may have a lemon and your dealer is incompetent.
The details of the car are as follows:
4 cyl, - wish it was 6 but it is OK.
2.4L engine
Sadan
Any additional advice? Any tips? I will take all I can get.
Did you get any kind of warranty with it or was it a private sale? The only issue my mom has really had with her 99 was a couple of loose trim pieces after a few thousand miles. I would check that. Do you know if it's a GX or a GL?
I am in the process of deciding if I should get a warrenty or not. It is a bit of money but ovbiously if something goes wrong it is well worth it. I will make that decision today when I do all the paper work and pick up my car. The car is a GL.
I had a trusted service person look over it again yesterday and everything really does look good. I am looking forward to driving it!!!!
Any other comments or tips? Like I said I will take all I can get to keep this car operating as smooth as possible.
I too have an extended warranty option. The cost is $2300 which would cover 3 years. I just recently bought this car and I've read about water leaks and break problems with this car. I'm thinking of purchasing this warranty. Does anyone have any suggestions on whether they think this is too expensive or worth it or not?
Thanks.
However, I bought the warranty toward the end of manufacturer warranty period. Something like at 32k(?) and 34 months after the car was build (July 1997, in door jamb). I felt that the car is not OK. Too much small problems fixed under warranty. I bought it used with 15k miles, and the first owner probably had reason to unload it. According to salesman, the previous owner was GM (lemon?).
I have few problems with another car, the 2000 Buick Regal. If no serious problems will develop during the next year, I will not buy a warranty.
With my experience, I would suggest to wait almost till the end of the manufacturer warranty. If the car turns not reliable, I will buy an aftermarket extended warranty. Otherwise, self-insurance.
However, it depends. If it is difficult to afford the warranty, it will be even more difficult to afford a major repair. Self-insurance is less expensive, in average, but it needs enough free funds - as financial reserve...
See my previous posting: for $1204 I bought an extended warranty for 6 years (after original 3 year one), and 100k miles (including the 36000 covered by original warranty). This is bumper to bumper plan, with zero deductible. Aftermarket, the company name is Warranty Gold. I found them on Internet and bought by phone.
Anyone else have similar experience?