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I would only pass on pricing if I thought it would be helpful and since you have already bought, it's a non-issue.
Enjoy your new car!
The following rates are from 20th century insurance for West Los Angeles, with full coverage $100/300 deductible, perfect driving record.
1) elantra GLS $446/ 6 mo
2) altime GXE $426/ 6 mo
3) sentra GXE $381/ 6 mo
4) accord LX $407/ 6 mo
The reason the rep gave was that elantra parts and repair is more expensive.
In my case the Elantra was rated at a 16, my 97 Cavalier at a 6 or 7, and my 94 Caravan at a 3 or 4. Most of the posts indicated that American cars with their cheaper readily available parts tend to do better in insurance costs and that Hyundai was paying for higher claims in earlier generation Elantras. The last generation's bumper repair costs were extremely high until the mid-course redesign (I think when the Elantra got a grill.)
Hyundai may be low balling the purchase price and then trying to recoup money with higher repair costs.
>
Neither did I, until this Sunday when I saw an ad: 13.999 + 495 Dest. with auto,Keyless entry, mud guards & mats which is just over 1,000 over the Elantra quotes I 've got. MSRP:16,627.
I thought the car has a little more stuff and worth the xtra 1,000.
(Hyundai started a Free Auto Transmission deal: $800 Jul.31 - which I did not know about before; and which was not even listed on their site /Edmunds/Carpoint or CarsDirect)
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Re insurance rates: it's very odd that the Accord's rate is so low, since they not only have high repair costs but are one of the most popular cars amongst car thieves. Probably has more to do with the "typical" driver of an Elantra vs. Accord: younger, single, higher accident rate for Elanta vs. more "family" types for Accord (also explains why the rates for Caravans are so low).
ARNOLD Hyundai 29187 Gratiot - Roseville 48066
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>
It is not too late to go back and to tell them they took advantageof the situation and sold you the wrong Extented Warranty ( Assuming it is Hyundai's Ext. Warranty)... because there are 2 types:
1- The $1,000+ for 2nd hand owners.
2- The $789 ( I was quoted 709 after some haggling.. but I didn't buy it...) for the original owner.
Hyundai allows to return the policy and get full refund the first year I believe...
If the dealer you bought it from is doesn't want to ... Contact Hyundai!
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>Even if I paid about $400 dollars to much for it.
>
Extended Warranty Follow up:
When I asked about buying the Extended Warranty, I was also quoted, at first, $1,000+ type... but fortunately I remember reading a posting somewhere, where it states how much someone paid for it. - $700.
So, I mentionned it to him..and he pretented to look it up again and he said: "Sorry I quoted you the wrong type", and he showed me the official pricing.
Moral of the story:
The Dealer sells you the wrong Ext. Warranty at $1,000
He pays Hyundai $500 and pockets $500 and tells Hyundai: he sold an Original Owner Warranty (the one which costs 789... Both warranties have the same coverage and are the same... the only difference is, if it is a 1st/2nd owner!); for a new car, which is the proper procedure and Hyundai would never know of the scheme, because that would give them a bad image (as if they need any more help in that field!).
Otherwise, if he sold you the correct warranty, his profit margin would be only around $200.
Also: you don't have to buy the warranty at the time of car purchase... Hyundai allows purchase (and I believe also full Refund), up to 1 year/ 15,000 miles after sales date.
Just thought I let you know...
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I put "vibration" and "Michelin" into Google and came up with this page. I don't know if it means anything, since similar situations might exist with any brand of tires. Still it might be a possible explanation for the intractable vibration problems that some people complain about.
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/michelin.html
Now, the question is, has anyone asked for replacement tires under this scenario (where a shimmy existed)?
Finally, for anyone in Colorado, Shortline Hyundai is advertising the base 2001 Elantra for $10,588 (including the $500 rebate). Not quite Famous Ed's in California, but not bad. Also, McDonald Automotive has a hail damage sale going right now. I haven't visited either dealership, nor do I know their reputation, but it's worth checking out. Some dealers are advertising 0.9 percent financing WAC, but this is only on the Sonata -- correct?
Steve
We at Bridgestone road tested most brands and Koreans such as Kumho/Hankook got good overall performance.
My Elantra has Kumho on it and I have no Shimmy at any speed.
I know everyone drives their cars differently (mileage and usage conditions), but you can tell by the way the dealer's salesmen try to pitch these things that they are a real money-maker for them. Third party extended warranties are cheaper, but they all make money. Which means, statistically, you will spend less money repairing your car than you paid for the extended warranty...
Personally, I feel really good about the Hyundai standard warranty...just my $.02 worth.
http://www.mbz.org/resources/tips/tires/
If it's a Mercedes, the assumption is that it's the tire that's causing the vibration. If it's a Hyundai, the assumption is that it's the car. Note the reference to a Michelin factory rep. It might be interesting to show this reference to someone from Michelin and see if they can figure out if something similar is happening to the Elantras. I'm not sure whether the average Hyundai dealer would be able to pick this up.
I am one of the original ones with the shimmy . I did everything I could. I rotated the tires front to back, then side to side looking for the culprit.
Hyuundai balanced them and I still had the problem. I went to a tire joint and they too broke the tire of the rims and remounted and balanced and I still had the trouble.
I went back to Hyundai and they found the tires out of balance per their machine. They rebalanced all 4 and the shimmy is gone at all speeds.
I would make sure that right after balancing the tires you either mark the rims or draw a pic of where the weights are on the rim. This suggestion is of course IF the shimmy is gone.
You might try having pep boys balance the tires with weights only in the inside instead of BOTH sides of the tires. I have read where this method of balancing can improve the problem. I ctually have it done tis way on my ranger because I do not want weight marks on the nice wheels and the ride has been perfect.
I think the Elantra just conveys a lot of information to the driver thru the steering wheel.... it is most likely NOT a car problem as my shimmy is GONE!
Good luck
Tony
For whatever it means, the salesman was most impressed that the car had Michelin energy tires. Said that this was the identical size and brand tire that Accord had and that the tire is absolutely, positively the top of the line.
I haven't confirmed on Edmunds that this the same tire as Accord. I also thought I'd do a quick check on the Honda Accord thread and see if there's any reference to vibration.
ALSO it may be all these different hi-tech balancing machines .
I had them balanced and paid good bucks to do so at a very reputable tire chain. Problem was still there, maybe even worse. Dealer checked the balance 2 days later and they were wayyyyyyy out of balance per Hyundai's machine.
I agree, something is causing all of this, but not sure if it is the tires , weights being flung off the tims or what.... I am sure we wil find the problem on day.
Hang in there.
Tony
I have been watching this thread about tires, and was going to stay out of it for the time being...
But, I couldn't, when someone says this: "...are nothing special - certainly not "top of the line". They are an okay quality...." about Michelin tires which cost $120 a piece.
The name may be over-rated but these tires (MXV4 plus - GreenX) are excellent compared to any other tire of this calibre; even though they are not the best for snow.
May be this person never had a Michelin tire after all!...
For the record they are used on new cars from: BMW, Mercedes, SAAB, Toyota, Mazda and the like (too many to mention!). If they were that bad, we would have heard from those by now!
.
You judge tire quality by how much they cost? You have lots to learn about tires. I stick by my original post - Michelin has a long history and a very good reputation, and they certainly expect you to pay for it when you buy their tires. I rely more on real world performance when selecting replacement tires. Remember that not all tires from one manufacturer come from the same plant, or even the same country. Quality can and does vary.
"Every tire engineer will confirm that it's relatively easy to develop a tire designed to excel in any single area, yet it is almost impossible to build a tire which improves all areas at once. With the new Energy MXV4 Plus, Michelin engineers have improved upon their previous MXV4 and Energy MXV4 tires' performance in a dozen traction, handling and comfort perimeters without the traditional tradeoffs.
The Energy MXV4 Plus incorporates an advanced version of Michelin's Radial XSE Technology (which consists of a "Smart Tread Compound, Optimized Casing Shape and Optimized Mass Distribution), the Energy MXV4 Plus now offers more performance than the original Energy MXV4 in every category.
On the outside, the Energy MXV4 Plus features a new 7-rib tread design (Energy MXV4 tires typically had 4) which provides more grooves to enhance foul weather traction. It also incorporates offset shoulder and diagonal intermediate blocks that are designed to "flow" through the contact patch for a quiet ride. On the inside, the Energy MXV4 Plus features a rounded casing shape to provide predictable handling, and has been optimized to equalize the tire's footprint pressure to extend its tread life. BAZ Technology (spiral wrapped nylon Banded At Zero degrees) reinforces the Energy MXV4 Plus' twin steel belts to provide high-speed durability while it helps maintain ride comfort. Depending on their size and anticipated application, Energy MXV4 Plus tires are H-, or V-speed rated. A runflat version of this tire is called the Energy MXV4 Plus ZP, and is used as an original equipment option on the Lincoln Continental."
Notice that no one tire "...improves all areas at once".
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And it seems that the Michelin's improve at none according to the same sites "Grand Touring Allseason Tire Survey Results" placing a solid 10th out of 12 tires.
I fully agree there.
These are All-Season tires for family/sedan cars Not a Max or Ultra High Performance
tires for sports cars
From Tests:
"On the road, the Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus was also praised for its excellent ride
comfort, noise comfort and good real world handling. Of the three tires tested, it was the
most capable of soaking up Indiana's pavement expansion joints and potholes. On the
track, the Energy MXV4 Plus provided good steering response and dry grip."
As far as I'm concerned, I'm very happy with these tires, although I did try one car that vibrated. Would have bought it had I not been reading these posts. Thank you. When it comes time to replace, I suspect that I may be able to find (almost) as good a tire for less money. Maybe even by buying (gasp) a Kumho or other Korean tire.
It seems the bird [non-permissible content removed] has etched the paint off!
Does somebody know what should I do? How can I get rid of the brown liquid from the tree? Should I wax and/or polish the car to protect the paint from further damage? This is my first new car! Somebody help me!!!
Sometimes just rubbing with a good car wax will remove these also.
You need to get bird droppings off you car as soon as is convenient because bird guano is acidic and will eat thru the paint. :-)
As for waxing, according to what a professional painter in a body shop told me, you only have to wait 3 months from the original painting of the car for the paint to cure. Then you can wax it, and you should because it will help protect your paint from guano and tree sap. There have been a couple of posts here for different polishes but as long as they are carnauba based they should be fine.
Now, for older cars, such as my 1996 Jeep Cherokee. (The Elantra is still too new yet to do this), I like to use a clay bar. I first wash it w/ Dawn or Palmolive to strip off the wax. Then I use the clay bar. Removes everything from stains to tree sap to big water spots that wax just won't take up. I follow that by Zaino Z-1 and then 2 coats of Z-2. Car came out beautiful and the paint felt like glass. 5 years and not garaged kept...It looked brand new. jxs81...You may want to try the clay bar to get some of the brown spots off. Make sure you get a lubricant with it. It should be included when you buy it though.
Never heard of Zaino. I use Meguire's or Mother's, but never Zaino. Is it special order or can I get it at any Auto Parts store? What can you compare it too....Zymol?
backy,
Nevermind how long, better to be safe than sorry. Wax on!
http://www.zainobros.com/
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board
What is "goo off"? How can I tell if it is safe for the coating of my car?
elantra00,
what is clay bar? it sounds that the paint could be damaged if I am doing it properly? is there a milder way to remove the tree sap?
Due to ignorance, I left the bird drop on my car for probably over a month:( is there a way I can prevent the damaged spots from further damage? such as use a little touch paint (maybe clear paint)?
So, I did some comparison shopping for the same model in different states - using mostly CarsDirect.
(Base Sonata MSRP: $15,494 Invoice: 14,700.
$13,000 : California
$14,500 : Colorado
$14,500 : Georgia
$14,600 : NY
$14,900 : MA -Boston
$15,000 : Washington
$15,100 : Illinois
$15,200 : Ohio
$15,200 : Oregon
$15,200 : DC
$15,200 : Texas
$15,300 : Michigan
$15,300 : Arizona
$16,700 : Nevada
The only logical thing I can think of is that: Hyundai is deliberately targeting a limited
number of states, with the aim/goal to capture a significant share in those. Mostly in CA where more than 50% of the new cars sold are said to be made by foreign manufacturers(even though some of them are made/assembled in N.America); and to a lesser extent a share in GA , CO , NY and FL.
Lets hope that doesn't turn off most potential buyers in the "high priced" states! It may backfire; because Hyundai is the only car maker to my knowledge, to deliberately practice such a (wide gap) pricing strategy!!!
Since I started looking at buying Hyundai a month ago, I only saw 2 elantras on the freeway around here in MI!
Notice, the Ports of entries: WA and OR are high priced; so it has nothing to do with transportation cost!
By the way, tb88, The 2002's must be close to the docks -- Famous Ed has reduced his remaining Elantras, at least for the weekend, to $10,488 -- all with automatic and MRSP of $14,032!
That's what I meant by Pricing strategy... On the surface you keep the same MSRP but you discount it in many other ways.
> > The 2002's must be close to the docks -- Famous Ed has reduced his remaining Elantras, at least for the weekend, to $10,488 -- all with automatic and MRSP of $14,032 < <
that's a good deal: $3,544 or 25% discount! I only got 2,050 or 12.5%.
> > the prices I have posted here for Elantras have been matched by Sentras, Sunfires, Mirages and Neons, with the Kias and Daewoos priced lower yet > >
Of course they do... They know that Hyundai is after some of their share of the market (a piece of the pie)... they are fighting it out; while poor us, up north and elsewhere are subsiding their greed!
PS. I have been reading about your posts about Zaino... I am not a big fan of Waxing... I thought the clear coat paint used nowadays doesn't need any of that! Am I wrong?
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I bought it at Home Depot but I would expect that any chain store would have it.
It comes in a small (3-4oz) yellow bottle for about $3.
Clearcoat is essentially non-pigmented paint, and must be protected just like a non-clearcoated finish - they same rules for washing, waxing, and polishing apply.