Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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I think it's horsepuckey that the engine is smoother and quieter...I've use regualr and synth in many cars for many year, and it never affected the performance.
The synth may last a while longer, but I change every 3K, so there's no advantage to synth over regular.
(I know many will disagree, but I've taken two, new civics, given one synth, and one regular oil, driven them more or less the same, and after 100,000 miles (3K oil change interval), when the engines were opened up, you couldn't tell the difference.)
http://cms.3m.com/cms/US/en/2-168/czuzuFG/view.jhtml
Its basically a clear film applied to the leading edge of the front fenders, hood and bumper to prevent paint damage. You couldn't see it unless you look very closely for the rear edge cutting across the hood. Seems like a good deal.
After 4 years and 51,000 miles, I finally went to the local Goodyear dealer and he replaced the filter for only $55 installed. It took the poor guy at least 45 minutes to get the job done . .. no way I could have done it on my own, glad I didn't try. But the difference in air quality is incredible , and it cools a lot better as well. This change out should be done every 2 years or so. For do it yourselfers see below. Has anyone attempted to do it themselves
P.S. Goodyear used a Purolator air filter . . I trust just as good as Honda air filter that cost double the price!
http://www.batauto.com/articles/cabinair.shtml
Must be made of gold.
It's also very easy to break the plastic panel.
http://www.osa.go.jp/anzen/html2003e/as105.html
They show the mazda6 (Mazda Atenza) beats the Accord by a slight margin. This coupled with the availability of side curtain airbags in a 4cylinder pretty much swayed me toward the Mazda6. I have been fairly undecided between the two before, and now every one of my own criterias are met by the Mazda6 (styling, reliability, value, safety).
I was not sure of Mazda6's safety compared to the Accord's until now.
Not trying to start another "this car versus another" thread, but just thought I'd share my own buying decision thought processes. I've been a Honda owner for quite a few years, and I believe Honda is still a good car company, but there are other competitors nibbling very closely behind.
~alpha
The filter is expensive from the dealer, b/c they include the plastic housing, whichis completely unnecessary if you already have an in-cabin filter installed.
Just find a micronAir retailer and get the filter itself. Part codes can be found at www.micronair.com.
I replace mine 2x a year, and it makes a big difference.
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The telling fact is the 5 product maintenance kit sent to you. Sounds like someone has to apply something to keep that gloss.
The paint will be just fine. Still be as shiney as new. The film is acting as a protective barrier, offering UV protection and the main advantage no more rock chips.
As for not yellowing, or holding up against that hot Texas sun you have down there, who knows?
If I were to get one, I would purchase the 3M brand film.
But Ill deal with the occasional rock chip, instead of plopping on a piece of plastic.
As with anything, its not a perfect product.
Yes it protects against paint chips, but when you are about 5 feet away you see this piece of plastic over your entire hood. People say its not noticeable, yes it is! Kinda like putting on seat covers. I have never seen the point of them.
I don't... I prefer the styling of the TSX to a degree, but since I've made the transition into the auto tranny phase of my driving career after years of driving stick, the V6 is better suited for an automatic than the 4 in the TSX.
Secondly does it matter. My mother punctured a tire with only 3K on the car. She was not smart and drove an additional 300 feet or so. I'm not sure but I think the tire is ruined. If I have to replace the tire is it better for any reason to get an identical tire. Reviews on these tires aren't so great and they are expensive. MXV4 S8 is 144 at tirerack and I don't even know where to find them in Houston.
I recently had to buy 2 tires when I slid on ice, hopped curb and blew out a tire with 20K on it.
Enjoy the article:
http://www.autoweb.com/content/research/index.cfm?id=17699;TAWEB&- amp;action=showArticle&aid=138526
I have posted similar questions before and have received some replies. Some have very warm key and some just have warm key.
I find my key is very warm on warm days. On cool or rainy days it does not.
As for the Japanese accord being the TSX here, they share the same structure underneath, so I wouldn't expect a big difference.
Course if you drive like a granny-nada problemo-I would not have a set if they were free however-two too many real scarey spins.
~alpha
If you want to speculate about what the Japanese tests might imply for US spec cars, that's your perogative. If I was truly concerned about safety, however, I'd want to see the results of tests on the specific design that I'd be buying. And that's not the Japan spec cars.
Talon95, I compared the data recorded for the dummies for both JDM Mazda6 (Atenza) and JDM Accord, most of the numbers are very close, with a slight edge to the Mazda6. I compared the two relative to each other, so I don't think I was comparing apples to oranges. Both cars were judged by the same standards, crashed and tested using the same technique and instruments.
As for using JDM crash tests to deduct similar results for the U.S. models. I'd say that's a pretty fair comparison. You aren't always going to get the exact model specification of the car model you plan to buy. For example, what if the there are differences between a V6 model and an I4? Or ones that were built in a different factory from steel imported from a different place? There are many factors that can contribute to test results. I'm looking for a general comparison, and the JDM results can provide a good estimate. If I had to buy a car right now I'd use those results since that's all I have to base my decision on.
My budget exceeds 16 grand so anything below is fine. Im looking for a 2 door, 4 cylinder, v-tec engine Acura/Honda, which is reliable and decent looking. Can anyone help me out?
Aditionally the difference isn't even worth discussing. Kinda like the margin the Accord had over the Atenza in the side impact measurements.
I went to the 225-55-16s.. first bought the Bridgestone Potenzas, which are good but too harsh a ride and noisy.
When I had to replace them, I went with a less expensive brand Dayton (I think they are also made by Bridgestone Firestone) and they drive much better, more comfortable, very quiet, stop on a dime. They are only $100 a piece compared to the $135 for the Potenzas, which I really didn't like driving on.
The original Michelins in my 98 Accord lasted 52K miles. At Discount Tire Company, they were $127/tire to replace couple of years ago so I went with Michelin Rain Force at $83/tire. But the second set didn’t last long, and now I’m on Yokohama YK420 ($86/tire). First 100 miles or so on the Yokohamas has been nice from ride/handling aspect. I have not had a chance to test it in rain (it may happen tomorrow as I drive to Ohio) though. They are quieter (better than the two Michelins I have had), and manage to (impressively) suppress the noise even from the creases between concrete blocks on bridges and roads.
BTW, I went up from P195/65/R15 to P205/60/R15 with the Yokohama.
I put four Dunlop Sport A2s on my '96 Subaru Legacy GT (before selling it last year) because of some great reviews on Tire Rack. They handled quite well. BUT... they were extremely noisey. I'm surprised that you are as happy as you've indicated.
John
Check it out at (TOV) temple of Vtec under Articles
http://www.vtec.net/articles/view-article?article_id=80004&pa- ge_number=2
Thanks,
kdbirch