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Older Honda Accords

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Comments

  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Using a premium fuel will not harm the Cat Converter. If raw fuel was to enter the exhaust system, the Oxygen Sensor would sense a "rich mixture" and attempt to "lean out" the fuel mixture by regualting the "ON TIME" of the fuel injectors. Since this "rich mixture" is an artificial condition brought on by the "so called premium fuel", the vehicle would experience a "drivability problem". This is not the case. When the vehicle is loaded and operating under a strain, (climbing hills, high speed driving ---etc.), this is where a little more octane can help, (even though there is a knock sensor on the engine to retard the timing to prevent knock). Important note: ---Retarded timing over a period of time creates excessive heat in an engine, and this equals poor performance. ----Just my opinion. ----Greg
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    I used premium for a minute in my 03 4 cylinder and after realizing my car was just as peppy and returned the same MPG with regular, I deemed it a waste of money and went back to 87 octane.
  • venus537venus537 Member Posts: 1,443
    the accord v6 has a high compression engine that will benefit from high octane gasoline. the accord i4 does not have a high compression engine that will not benefit from high octane gasoline. pretty simple.
  • patentman1patentman1 Member Posts: 18
    The OEM tires were the Michelin Energy series. Very noisy tires, but they handled and rode reasonably well. I found for a little less money, the Bridgestone's offered superior ride and handling while being very quiet. I regret buying the Dunlops even though they were a lot cheaper. Sometimes you get what you pay for!
  • mikek37mikek37 Member Posts: 411
    Well put. Its is as simple as that. If you have an Accord 4 Cyclinder stop wasting your money of premium. If you own the 6 cyclinder, give it some 91 if you want. THe manual even says and I quote: 87 or higher"
  • vu2000vu2000 Member Posts: 58
    I know this is a car forum, but I am looking to buy a new motorcycle(my first ever). Could someone point me to a site that can be as helpful with motorcycles as this site is with automobiles.
    Thanks.
  • tgozdalski1tgozdalski1 Member Posts: 34
    I don't think you will find motorcycle site catering to all types of motorcycles as Edmunds does it with cars. I ride about 1000 miles a month on my zr-7s kawasaki. Honda 919 is a great around town, and highway, motorcycle. Low insurance, reliable, fun. You can find more info going to: http://pub132.ezboard.com/fhornetsnest56467frm14
    Good luck and have fun.
  • lenscaplenscap Member Posts: 854
    Here's a color question for anyone that may know the answer. Does the grey interior have the same black upper dashboard/upper door panels as the black interior? Or is the upper dashboard/upper door panels a dark grey?
  • lichtronimolichtronimo Member Posts: 212
    Dark grey...
  • crv16crv16 Member Posts: 205
    I''ve seen many arguments for buying late model used cars - it's supposed to save you a lot of money, right? Well for some cars, mainly domestic SUV's and sedans, which depreciate like a rock, that makes sense, because you can typically pick one up at half the cost of new for a 3 year old car.

    In my case, I drive more than average (around 25k per year), and I like to drive Hondas. I typically trade in around 150k miles, before any major repairs might come due.

    I figure it is no cheaper for me to buy a used Honda than it is to buy new:

    Scenario 1:

    Buy new 2003 Accord EX, auto trans for $20,000. Sell 6 years later, with 150k miles. Edmunds TMV trade in value is ~$5,300. Total cost per mile is $0.10 (150,000 miles / $14,700 depreciation).

    Scenario 2:

    Buy used 1999 Accord EX, auto trans for $13,000, which has 60k miles on it. Drive it 3.6 years and sell it at 150k miles, with an estimated trade in value of $4,000. Total cost per mile is $0.10 (90,000 miles / $9,000 depreciation).

    Scenario 1 will have higher registration, interest, and insurance costs, but scenario 2 will have higher maintenance costs, so total costs should be about the same.

    Bottom line is that there is not a dramatic difference in costs when buying new or used -- so why buy used?
  • clint98v6atclint98v6at Member Posts: 54
    Try the Cycle World web site or get a subscription to Cycle World for motorcycle info. In my experience (25 yrs) all of the Japanese makes are very reliable and have low maintenance costs. Hondas have a slight advantage when it comes to holding their value compared to the other Japanese makes. Ducatis and Harleys have much higher and more frequent maintenance costs, but also hold their value very well.

    Sportbikes have higher insurance costs than cruisers, and the larger the displacement, the higher the insurance cost in most cases. Good luck.
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    except that you should keep it longer. Honda can take 200-250 K easily. That makes it much cheaper for you.
  • fezofezo Member Posts: 10,386
    I pretty much buy that.

    A car that depreciates like a Honda is an exception to my buy a year or two year old car and then drive it forever philosophy.

    My brother got a really decent deal on a Miata a year ago, had his fun with it and is currently got it for sale for $500 more than he paid for it. Won't surprise me if he pulls that off.

    It kills me that he's selling it, but it's his second car and he wanted a little more room. Bought a Celica convertible to replace it.
    2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
  • own4hown4h Member Posts: 20
    That works better for me, and its even a better deal because I use my for work and can use the tax write-off. Also a big factor is if you can do the repairs/maintenence yourself or your like me and get the experts to do it.
    Its a bone of contention when people think there method of buying cars is the only way and works for everyone. I for 1 buy first year cars about 4+ months after their introduced. It has worked well for me, because I put a lot of miles on and sell before the new model comes out. That might not work for you, so perhaps waiting a year or two would be better, or buying a good used car. Thing is, you should taylor your purchasing to your own needs, like cvr16 has.
    And don't make brash statements on other's purchasing decisions because their needs may be very different than yours. 1 size fits all does not apply to car purchases, and it shows little respect when you imply your method is obviously the best. Sorry for the rant, its been a long day.
  • kinleykinley Member Posts: 854
    This is worth seeing. Sound and speakers on please.

    http://home.attbi.com/~bernhard36/honda-ad.html
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    hey guys and gals,

    to those of you that were mentioning long crank times before your engine starts...honda has issued a tsb dealing with this problem. apparently there are some bad fuel pressure regulators on some new accords.

    i know my ex v6 coupe occasionally cranks for what i'd consider longer than a normal amount of time. but it has always started...

    here is a link with more info:

    http://152.122.48.12/prepos/files/Artemis/Public/TSBs/2003/SB-100- 01480-3093.pdf
  • mbfjackmbfjack Member Posts: 23
    Can anyone tell me how in a black interior does that metal console in the dashboard look like?? And if there is the possibility of getting the burlwood trim in a black interior (Satin silver outside), and if so, does it go well with a Black dashboard?? Been in Europe for 6 months, and I'm thinking about getting an Accord sedan when I get back, and I haven't seen here the redesigned Accord, thus I'm unable to look at one live, except through the internet. Thanks in advance.
  • treostertreoster Member Posts: 74
    Thanks for the link to the TSB....this has been a problem intermittently, and a source of many wasted trips to the dealer.

    Now, hopefully with this in hand, they will fix it.
  • mikek37mikek37 Member Posts: 411
    Emale thank you for posting that. Question, where did you get that link?
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    Would it not be substantially cheaper to insure a 4 year old car vs a new one? I would think so. You are also assuming everyone can afford a $20K+ vehicle which may not be the case.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,669
    My cost doesn't go down much from as the car gets older. Most of the cost is liability and medical which stays relatively the same.

    The cost of collision for the value of the car goes down slightly. It's going to stay higher for a car with a higher used market value like Hondas pull. The most the company is out is finding a replacement car for one that's totalled, so if a car's used value goes down more quickly, it'll cost less to replace your wheels for you.

    That probably varies with the car and the area.
    I'm in a relatively rural area in the midwest.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    mikek37,

    i got that link off the www.nhtsa.gov web site.
  • nfjimcnfjimc Member Posts: 21
    I have that combo and I think it looks really good. I appreciate things like fine wood, but with the silver exterior I think the silver accents inside give the car a sporty look. Had some folks in the cart for the first time this weekend and they both commented on how sharp the silver accents looked. As always, beauty is in the eye.....
  • snowfulsnowful Member Posts: 53
    I have the black interior with the silver accents and I think it looks awesome. I don't care for the wood trim at all, but I agree in that the wood trim gives the car a more luxury feel while the silver trim is more sporty. Many people have commented to me how attractive they think my interior is, plus you are seeing a lot of cars these days with similar silver accents.
  • bmwdriver02bmwdriver02 Member Posts: 46
    The reason you can't see a redesigned Accord in Europe is because they have a different Accord. It is the Acura TSX here and the Accord overseas.
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    I don't know.. my insurance has gone down over the years since it was new. Lower value cars carry lower insurance rates. Only makes sense.
  • mbfjackmbfjack Member Posts: 23
    I did know about the TSX here. My curiosity was about the US Accord, which, as you know, we don't have over here. FYI, however...and this is amazing...I saw a couple of weeks ago something I didn't know existed which was... ready for this...the new Accord wagon (same interior of the American Accord Sedan)... brand new... very sharp... not TSX but Accord.
    Mónica.
  • mbfjackmbfjack Member Posts: 23
    Thanks. That's all I wanted to know. I'm glad it (metallic dashboard) looks good. I wasn't sure, but you convinced me.
  • crv16crv16 Member Posts: 205
    Would it not be substantially cheaper to insure a 4 year old car vs a new one? I would think so.

    My insurance went up something like $40 per year when I went from my '95 Accord to my '01 Accord. Negligble difference. About $600 per year for my '01 Accord (in NH).
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    Lady here in the office went from a 93 Civic to a 03 Corolla and her insurance tripled with the same coverage. It likely partly depends on where you live and what exactly you drive.
  • atlantabennyatlantabenny Member Posts: 735
    Hi all. My comments (but as nfjimc says, "beauty is in...):

    1) Burlwood trim kit added to factory metal trim: Actually did this - got the "official Honda burlwood kit" and installed it in my wife's 03 grey interior with metal trim. Result is a luxury/sport appearance similar to the wood/metal blends in some new European makes.

    2) Metal trim kit added to factory metal trim: Saw this Honda kit in a showroom car with black interior. Nice - it makes a "pure sport" statement. Considered this for my own 03 coupe with black interior/silver exterior but opted for an understated look (will install selected metal pieces from an aftermarket kit).

    Honda's burlwood kit is very dark brown; online price is $180 / dealer's is $225-250.
  • lichtronimolichtronimo Member Posts: 212
    The wagon is offered in Japan and Europe on the platform that is the US TSX. Follow along carefully here:

    1. The NA Accord = JDM Inspire.

    2. The JDM/Euro Accord = NA Acura TSX

    3. The NA and JDM/Euro Accord have basically the same dashboard.

    4. The upmarket NA TSX and JDM Inspire (which is a rebadged NA Accord) have basically the same dashboard.

    The wagon is very sharp - see the ad link above - and I hope they bring it here (US) as a TSX variant.
  • mbfjackmbfjack Member Posts: 23
    Thanks. Very informative.
  • stringreenstringreen Member Posts: 17
    I have a 03 6 Cyl. Coupe that had a very long crank time when it was new, but now with 8000 miles on it, it starts in a flash
  • briansbluetoybriansbluetoy Member Posts: 50
    Emale, thanks for the info. This has really troubled me (all previous hondas have started in a flash, my 03v6 takes about 3 seconds still at 5k miles). I tried to talk myself out of it being a problem since the car always started, its just an annoyance.

    Also, good to know how to articulate the problem to the service guys so they can find this tsb.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    I wonder if they are being made in Marysville.
  • maxamillion1maxamillion1 Member Posts: 1,467
    Since some of the new Accords were made in Japan when they first came out.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    Ah yes, I forgot that. Nevermind.
  • communipawcommunipaw Member Posts: 19
    Has anyone added a satellite radio, XM or Sirus, to a 2003 Accord sedan? If so, any comments on the installation?
  • collegeguy03collegeguy03 Member Posts: 2
    Yep, I'll be looking at an 1998 Accord LX with for only $7500 which is well below blue book value.

    My price range is pretty much anything up to $9,000...I'd prefer to not spend much above 7500 however. This Accord is being sold by a private party...I have not seen it yet but I ran a clean carfax report and apparently it is in good condition. Is this too good to be true? Obviously - I'm going to take it to a mechanic before buying but is this a great deal?

    I'm also considering a 1996 Accord DX with 64K miles for $5900 and a 1998 Civic LX with 46K miles for $7200.

    Basically, I want a car that will last me through my last 3 years of college and probably a few years beyond...will any of these cars fit the bill?
  • hondadrivenhondadriven Member Posts: 13
    vu2000:
    You can try the following site, it has individual forums for "Honda, Kawasaki, KTM, Yamaha, & all other" motocycles: http://www.4strokes.com/forums.asp

    You have to register in order to view or post on each forum I believe. Not much into bikes myself, but hopefully will be helpful to you.
  • dardson1dardson1 Member Posts: 696
    My mom is 80. We got her a new Accord LX last summer......traded in a 94 Mazda 626 with 22k miles (lol). She drives under 3000 miles a year, short drives, no highway, etc. She still isn't at 3k miles yet. How often should we change the oil?
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    Every six months in her case . .
  • youneiknaimyouneiknaim Member Posts: 1
    I recently installed the Delphi Sky Fi XM Satellite radio unit in my '03 Accord V6 Sedan. I purchased the unit from Best Buy and had it installed by them. I located the control/display unit in the CD storage area below the radio/climate control unit. I located the antenna on the rear shelf inside next to the high mount brake light housing. This is the antenna location that is specified by honda for their dealer-installed XM unit (which I considered but decided against). The Sky Fi performs flawlessly in the Accord and the sound quality is awesome. I use the included remote control unit to switch between my 20 pre-sets. In general I highly recommend XM and specifically the Sky Fi unit with its excellent display and controls.
  • tim_hooligantim_hooligan Member Posts: 143
    I bought a 2003 EX back in the fall. A couple months ago I was involved in an accident with my new Accord. When I took my Accord in for a checkup, I was informed that there had been secondary mechanical damage under the hood that had not been fixed. In addition, a hose had been cut and other things appeared to have been "worked on" by the shop. But to my point...
    The engine has developed a vibration at certain RPMs since the accident, but the dealer will not cover it under warranty due to the accident. in addition, they warned me that other repairs are not covered (they didn't want to fix the warped rotors...in 7000 miles?!!?!?).

    So, here's my dilemma...How do I approach this? I have considered filing diminution of value against the other person in the accident (he was at fault) and purchasing a new car. What's the best way to do this? I live in VA and the laws are vague at best.

    Also, how does Magnuson-Moss apply in this case? I know my insurance company and Honda are pointing fingers for fault...and I can't tolerate the BS!!!

    Please help! Any lawyers out there?
    Email me @ runninghooligan@hotmail.com and I will willing to listen!
    Thanks all!!

    -Tim
  • robertsmxrobertsmx Member Posts: 5,525
    I assume that you got the repairs done through your insurance company. Approach them first.
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    Yup, leave it all to the insurance company. They know, not a good idea to get into this stuff by yourself.
  • tim_hooligantim_hooligan Member Posts: 143
    I agree...going this alone would be a disaster for sure. However, when I spoke with them they simply pushed me over to the other guy's insurance company. That seemed like a cheap way out for them. But, it looks like I'll put my thinking cap on and fight this one out! Time for a buyback....thanks all!

    Time to yell at the Gecko...
  • dfwk2500dfwk2500 Member Posts: 68
    First things first, this is just general advise that may or may not be successful depending on the specific circumstances you are dealing with. (How's that for a nice lawyerly disclaimer) Did you already sign any type of release with the other guys insurance company, either a separate document or endorsement of an insurance check? If not, there is a sure way to solve the problem between whether it is accident related or warranty related. Assuming you have already given the other guys insurance company the opportunity to inspect the vehicle for this additional problem and they have either refused or done their inspection and claimed it is not accident related, have your dealer repair whatever is the problem. If it is warranty, great, if not tell them you need a full description of the problem, why it is not covered by the warranty and why they believe it is accident related. This needs to be in writing preferably signed by both the service manager and the technician working on the car. Be sure to tell them you need to keep all the old parts. Once the work is done, you now have the "evidence" you need that it is accident related. When you send the insurance company the written certification, they should pay at that point. If not, you have all you need to sue the at fault driver since fault appears not to be an issue and you now have an expert witness (the service manager and the technician) who have gone on record with their opinions and the facts to support their opinions. The only down side is you are (hopefully only temporarily) out of pocket the cash for the repair. Diminution in value is really only the loss you've experienced because the car is not "new" or "accident free" so on resale or trade in it has lost value because it has been repaired. The gist of your complaint is that it is still not back to the condition it was in prior to the accident.
  • 1taxman1taxman Member Posts: 27
    I have been looking at the new EX. I haven't seen one with fog lights yet. The dealer I am looking through wants $465 for the fogs. I can buy them online for about $240. 1. Do I need them? 2. Are they tough to install?
    Thanks in andvance.
    mike
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