Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Thanks.
Good luck and have fun.
In my case, I drive more than average (around 25k per year), and I like to drive Hondas. I typically trade in around 150k miles, before any major repairs might come due.
I figure it is no cheaper for me to buy a used Honda than it is to buy new:
Scenario 1:
Buy new 2003 Accord EX, auto trans for $20,000. Sell 6 years later, with 150k miles. Edmunds TMV trade in value is ~$5,300. Total cost per mile is $0.10 (150,000 miles / $14,700 depreciation).
Scenario 2:
Buy used 1999 Accord EX, auto trans for $13,000, which has 60k miles on it. Drive it 3.6 years and sell it at 150k miles, with an estimated trade in value of $4,000. Total cost per mile is $0.10 (90,000 miles / $9,000 depreciation).
Scenario 1 will have higher registration, interest, and insurance costs, but scenario 2 will have higher maintenance costs, so total costs should be about the same.
Bottom line is that there is not a dramatic difference in costs when buying new or used -- so why buy used?
Sportbikes have higher insurance costs than cruisers, and the larger the displacement, the higher the insurance cost in most cases. Good luck.
A car that depreciates like a Honda is an exception to my buy a year or two year old car and then drive it forever philosophy.
My brother got a really decent deal on a Miata a year ago, had his fun with it and is currently got it for sale for $500 more than he paid for it. Won't surprise me if he pulls that off.
It kills me that he's selling it, but it's his second car and he wanted a little more room. Bought a Celica convertible to replace it.
Its a bone of contention when people think there method of buying cars is the only way and works for everyone. I for 1 buy first year cars about 4+ months after their introduced. It has worked well for me, because I put a lot of miles on and sell before the new model comes out. That might not work for you, so perhaps waiting a year or two would be better, or buying a good used car. Thing is, you should taylor your purchasing to your own needs, like cvr16 has.
And don't make brash statements on other's purchasing decisions because their needs may be very different than yours. 1 size fits all does not apply to car purchases, and it shows little respect when you imply your method is obviously the best. Sorry for the rant, its been a long day.
http://home.attbi.com/~bernhard36/honda-ad.html
to those of you that were mentioning long crank times before your engine starts...honda has issued a tsb dealing with this problem. apparently there are some bad fuel pressure regulators on some new accords.
i know my ex v6 coupe occasionally cranks for what i'd consider longer than a normal amount of time. but it has always started...
here is a link with more info:
http://152.122.48.12/prepos/files/Artemis/Public/TSBs/2003/SB-100- 01480-3093.pdf
Now, hopefully with this in hand, they will fix it.
The cost of collision for the value of the car goes down slightly. It's going to stay higher for a car with a higher used market value like Hondas pull. The most the company is out is finding a replacement car for one that's totalled, so if a car's used value goes down more quickly, it'll cost less to replace your wheels for you.
That probably varies with the car and the area.
I'm in a relatively rural area in the midwest.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
i got that link off the www.nhtsa.gov web site.
Mónica.
My insurance went up something like $40 per year when I went from my '95 Accord to my '01 Accord. Negligble difference. About $600 per year for my '01 Accord (in NH).
1) Burlwood trim kit added to factory metal trim: Actually did this - got the "official Honda burlwood kit" and installed it in my wife's 03 grey interior with metal trim. Result is a luxury/sport appearance similar to the wood/metal blends in some new European makes.
2) Metal trim kit added to factory metal trim: Saw this Honda kit in a showroom car with black interior. Nice - it makes a "pure sport" statement. Considered this for my own 03 coupe with black interior/silver exterior but opted for an understated look (will install selected metal pieces from an aftermarket kit).
Honda's burlwood kit is very dark brown; online price is $180 / dealer's is $225-250.
1. The NA Accord = JDM Inspire.
2. The JDM/Euro Accord = NA Acura TSX
3. The NA and JDM/Euro Accord have basically the same dashboard.
4. The upmarket NA TSX and JDM Inspire (which is a rebadged NA Accord) have basically the same dashboard.
The wagon is very sharp - see the ad link above - and I hope they bring it here (US) as a TSX variant.
Also, good to know how to articulate the problem to the service guys so they can find this tsb.
My price range is pretty much anything up to $9,000...I'd prefer to not spend much above 7500 however. This Accord is being sold by a private party...I have not seen it yet but I ran a clean carfax report and apparently it is in good condition. Is this too good to be true? Obviously - I'm going to take it to a mechanic before buying but is this a great deal?
I'm also considering a 1996 Accord DX with 64K miles for $5900 and a 1998 Civic LX with 46K miles for $7200.
Basically, I want a car that will last me through my last 3 years of college and probably a few years beyond...will any of these cars fit the bill?
You can try the following site, it has individual forums for "Honda, Kawasaki, KTM, Yamaha, & all other" motocycles: http://www.4strokes.com/forums.asp
You have to register in order to view or post on each forum I believe. Not much into bikes myself, but hopefully will be helpful to you.
The engine has developed a vibration at certain RPMs since the accident, but the dealer will not cover it under warranty due to the accident. in addition, they warned me that other repairs are not covered (they didn't want to fix the warped rotors...in 7000 miles?!!?!?).
So, here's my dilemma...How do I approach this? I have considered filing diminution of value against the other person in the accident (he was at fault) and purchasing a new car. What's the best way to do this? I live in VA and the laws are vague at best.
Also, how does Magnuson-Moss apply in this case? I know my insurance company and Honda are pointing fingers for fault...and I can't tolerate the BS!!!
Please help! Any lawyers out there?
Email me @ runninghooligan@hotmail.com and I will willing to listen!
Thanks all!!
-Tim
Time to yell at the Gecko...
Thanks in andvance.
mike