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anyways... sorry to hear about your bad experience... hopefully it will be your last.
Also, push the XM button on the dashboad, a recorded voice will tell you all about XM--I switched it off because I had no interest in that--preferred to hear a CD I'd burned for the car instead.
I think you can start your free 3 months whenever you choose and then give the system an hour to download stations after you sign up--works something like that, I think....Richard
I also think people do indeed see the worst of the Accord or any other car on this board as this is a place you can come to with questions about problems. People with no problems will not post as much. Accord has has some initial issues but it should be an above average car in the long run.
Honda recalls about 600K+ cars.
Does anyone know what models are affected?
http://www.hondacars.com/info/news/article.asp?ArticleID=20031103- 60500&Category=currenthonda
This would be extremely rare.
as far as someone being unsure about buying the Accord because of problems on Edmunds TownHall, i will say the same thing too. they seem like the type that is extremely nervous, so buying an Accord won't be a good idea. because when you have that attitude, you WILL find something wrong with the car. and since that is the case, i would say just buy the cheapest car, since any car is going to have problems. might as well save money and be miserable, than spend more and still be miserable, right?
Still, if a nervous would be buyer scours these boards for problems they will find them with ANY make or model. Pick the brand!
Misery loves company and people like to complain more than praise. These boards reflect this.
Hate to see someone ride the bus out of fear.
I ignored the warnings a couple times. And I ended up stranded on the high way just like you.
The car (89 Accord) completely lost all power. I guess the battery drained out.
In your case, I don't know if you noticed that light ever came on.
This is a rare event but hopefully it will happen to other people.
----but hopefully it will NOT happen to other people
Consumer Reports is just running stats supplied by readers - may or may not be a valid approach. Agree some of their ratings (jeans!) are dubious.
With the 03 Accord getting the nod from both CR and Car and Driver it seems a safe bet.
What is one going to find that will be any more reliable?
not sure that happens in the Accord forum, but i would hate to see that person deciding between a Ford and a Honda to base his decisions on everything in here (Edmunds TH).....because in that case, all cars are crap
As you probably know, the '98 EXV6 sedan comes with Michelin MXV4+SE P205/65/VR15 tires. I need replacements. (Can you believe I have 70K+ on these?)
Been looking at Continental ContiExtremeContact (none available anywhere!!) Dunlop SP 5000 Sport (not sure of quality) and Bridgestone Turanza LS-H or LS-V.
Anyone know of the pros/cons of going to H rated tires vs. V rated? I don't drive hard at all (definitely not 140mph!) so I'm thinking H rated tires will be sufficient.
Let me know what you all think.
Thanks in advance!!
Gary
If that were the case, you "could" go with "S" rated since most people don't "plan" to go over 90mph or so. IMHO, you will get much better performance for a higher speed rated tire than one that isn't rated as high.
I will usually go up one or two ratings when changing tires... On the new accords, it's pretty funny, they are "luxury touring" tires, so they have no warranty.. they are also "v" rated.
It really is up to you, but I would stay with the stock ratings or better.
The salesman at Tire Rack said the only difference in the LS-H and LS-V is that the LS-V has a slightly stiffer sidewall, which would deliver slightly better performance but also a little bit stiffer ride. I went with the LS-H which is $19/tire cheaper and still performs much better than the V-rated Michelin. Ride seems a little more stiff than with the Michelins but the trade-off is a better handling vehicle. I'm very happy with them so far.
The car drives noticeably better than mine. The engine was smoother and quieter, and had lots more power all over. The 5-speed was slicker. Overall it was quieter on the highway and more stable, with less lean on on-ramps and in turns. The steering is lighter but still very precise and smooth. You sit higher in this car, and the cowl is higher too (I owned a 91 Accord and 99 Prelude and I like the low seating).
chillin...
380/mo is a great deal(IMO) for 60 months. If it is for 72, well... that's another story. The trade offer sounds very good, and considering the 8% tax in washington, it doesn't sound like a horrific deal, IMO.
I'm leaning toward the Bridgestone Turanza LS-H. It has received great reviews (tirerack.com) and the price is reasonable. I drive pretty conservatively (70K miles on stock MXV4+SE) but want a tire that can handle well while having exceptional ride qualities (smooth, quiet).
Stock tires were "V" rated but I feel comfortable with these "H" rated tires due to my 'conservative' driving habits. Anyone have any pro's / con's as to "H" rated tires on this car ('98 Accord EXV6 sedan) please jump in now!
I need to make a purchase within the week.
Thanks again, Gary
My wife tells me that MPG is not so stellar right now with 600 miles on the odometer.
It did get better for my TLS after I passed the 1000 mile mark.
Basicly HONDA is unreliable for 2003 model should have bought a TL. Never had problems with my previous Integra GSR '96, and TL '00.
However, after they replaced the transmission, that Accord was a paragon of reliability. Hopefully, that will be your experience as well.
As for my 2003 Accord EX V6, it has been completely trouble-free (knock on wood)... again, hopefully you've gotten the problems behind you.
Dealer gives you 10 and some change for your car, and sells you the accord for say a couple hundred over invoice. I'm guessing that you are getting the EX-L Manual Transmission. Then they roll 2k of your old debt into the loan, and you basically finance the 22k plus the 2k which is MSRP.
Scenario you are in... dealer gives you 13k for your car, sells you new one for 25k, minus the 700 extra on your trade allowance, and you finance MSRP.
Either way, it's a wash. Head over to the smart shopper "real world trade in value" and run it by terry. gve him all the necessities(location, color, options, condition(perfect doesn't count)) he should be able to give you a good feel for what it is worth. I'm guessing if it's a stick it will be worth 10, maybe 11 on a trade if it "glows" and you can get someone to give it to you.
Just as an example... that $380/mo I have calculated out at 24,3 4% 72months. You seem to be a payment shopper. Personally, I go with bottom line(usually have my own financing lined up as a back up) and tell em' best OTD price. Me thinks you will end up putting money down on this bad boy, depending on the bank, they may not finance more than MSRP.
Kenn
That is a gold mine for the dealer who is trying to sell you on a payment.
The only thing that matters in a trade-in situation is the difference between the purchase price and the trade-in price of your new car.
By my best guess the difference should be about
Purchase Price $21,938 ($300 over Invoice)
-
Trade-In $10,300 (Kelly Blue Book, which is always too high)
+ Negative Equity $2,100
=
$13, 738 (Need to add TT&L)
Financed for 48 months at 4.95% = $316 / Month
----------------------------------------
So Bottom line it does not sound like a good deal.
Only happens when I cross lanes (with reflectors, live in LA) or on bumpy roads. Also, at low speeds on bumby roads get vibration noise in dash near vents. Very irritating. Unlike any Honda I've owned for the past twenty years. Quite dissapointed.
Anyone experience same?
I feel compelled to say this, but first NOBODY BLAST ME FOR SAYING THIS: The 4cyl Accord, IMO, is a smidge faster and more fun to drive than the 6i.
On the handling side, many prefer the 6 but I find the accord to be VERY tactile and steering is precise with a lot of feedback. The Accord 4cyl is reportedly more fun to toss around than the V6 b/c of less weight over the front wheels.
The 2.4 is very refined and powerful, more powerful than Mazda's 2.3. I accidently hit the rev limiter when I test drove the car because the engine was that smooth! The 6i gives off better exhaust notes but the engine is still very smooth. On the handling front, the 6 wins hands down, even more so with the 17" wheels. After driving the Accord for many months, it took me a while to finally get my 6i to understeer. Yes, the 6i has way more grip, but if you swap in 17" wheels on the Accord, I bet it can come pretty close. Overall, the 6 is a more sporty car than the Accord. The engines are not as sophisticated, but the handling makes up for it.
I guess I just liked the Accord better, and one of my good friends from work got a Mazda6 about the same time I got my car, and IMO after the wheel/tire upgrade the car is just as much fun to drive. --my .02
Poster said he owed about 12,4 or so on the car.
KBB says it's worth 10k. so the poster has ~2,400 in negative equity in car
So the real equation is New car value - Used car value + Used car payoff =
I think you forgot to add in the payoff, and just added in the negative equity.
using the formula as stated, 21,938(300 over invoice) - 10,300(KBB) + 12,400(loan payoff) = 24,038.
Financed 48mo @ even 0% is over $500/month.