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Comments
when braking at speeds greater than 30 MPH, the brake
rotors (front) are uneven, or warped. I have a 2000 EX-V6,
and my brake rotors had to be "machined" (cut) at 7200
miles. This was done at NO COST by the dealer....but I was
very unhappy, because I wanted NEW rotors installed.
But guess what! The dealer said 'NO'!
Honda is protected against brake rotor problems simply by
Honda saying "BRAKE ROTORS are NOT under warranty"
(see warranty manual). They will however, where possible,
pay to have the dealer CUT the rotors.
SHAME on YOU, HONDA!!
Piceno
Honda Accord I did not have to machine the rotors
until way after 36,000 miles!
http://www.purehonda.com
http://www.honda-tech.com/
http://www.hondabeat.com/
Cheers,
Arnols
1. Inproperly torqued lug nuts.
2. Hard driving!
Can you please lead me to the info.
Thanks
sri
Catherine Heins is looking for people to interview who have switched from American to Japanese cars in the past few years-- especially folks who wouldn't have given a Toyota or Honda the time of day in the 1970s.
She's a business reporter at the Yomiuri Shimbun, which is the biggest daily paper in Japan with a circulation of 14 million. They are writing a feature story about Japanese automakers' continuing success in expanding production in the U.S. and snatching market share from the Big Three even on their former home turf of light trucks.
If you fit this description and are willing to be interviewed, please call her directly at 212-582-5827 or e-mail her at catheins@yahoo.com. As always, you can contact me at jfallon@edmunds.com if you have any questions.
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com
How many of you stick with recommendation. This means Prestone regular and all others are out. The Silicate/Phosphate free stuff is the extended life 150,000 mile. Is that what should be used. Any just what is so bad about prestone and the others?
You can bet any non Honda shop uses the regular stuff.
INKY
Somebody said, "Why are you concerned if you got your rotors ground at 7.5K". Real simple-thinner rotors mean less metal and a much greater chance at warping. If somebody says they must grind your rotors to true them up at every pad change-find another mechanic. Replacing rotors on a honda is an expensive proposition.
More like some kind of harmonic vibration that hits only at that speed.
I wouldn't worry much about it. Even if it is a bearing, keeping driving until it gets so much worse you don't have a problem identifying what and where it is.
Thanks
Dust gaurds are available at most auto parts stores I believe, but are not suggested because they do not allow enough air to get to the rotors. This can cause the rotors to become easier to warp and/or run out which leads to vibrations while braking.
bburton-If the rotors were fine until 7500 miles and no other problem was found in the system I wouldn't think Honda should be responsible for replacing them. Especially with all of the owner induced ways rotors can be warped. I agree that rotors should not be turned with every brake job. That's why I do my own.
Find out if the dealer put your vehicle on any kind of scanner. This checks the functions of the computer control devices. If your O2 sensor is bad, it would turn on the MIL, malfunction indicator lamp or check engine lamp. They are relativly cheap so replacing it might be an option if it's never been done. Since you said that the car is a little less peppy, considering the mileage you have, the catalytic converter might be starting to plug up. This can be checked by the dealer or an independent shop. Air cleaner OK? Find out what exactly the dealer did to address your concern. Hope this helps.
Also, what kind of real world mileage do guys/gals get with the 4 and 6 cylinders?
Best of Luck,
-Getz
I am still waiting to fill the second tank:-)
get a ex or v6 ex
I paid 200 over invoice for an ex (20,400) last weekend and got the 3.9 financing
v6 ex were going 200 below invoice. If you are in DC/Baltimore are let me know I can give you the dealers name.
I replaced the original tires at 42,000 with the same type of tire (Michelin X-one (185/70R14) and now at 76,000 miles need to replace them again. Although I never had an alignment done, I rotate my tires every other oil change or 6-7,000 miles. My question is...I thought tires are designed to last 70,000 miles. None of the tires are showing excessive wear although the tread just barely passes inpection. Is this considered premature? I am considering replacing the tires but I think I am due for some recourse from the tire manufacturer. Any experiences would be appreciated.
I sold a '98 LX 4 cyl with 17,000 miles to buy our new '01 EX V6. I rotate tires at 2500 miles, in less than 30 minutes using cheap floor jacks. The OEM MXV4s on our LX were less than 25% worn at 17k miles. When I hear of people having to abandon ship on these tires after 30k or less, the problem is simply that the suggested intervals for tire rotations are just too long for any front-drive car. Keep the alignment right [a good rule of thumb is every 30k miles for an alignment check, or more often if you live in pothole country], and rotate no later than 3500 miles.
OR....just plan on replacing tires regularly...this can actually be an inexpensive solution if you don't like a lot of involvement in the process, and stick with reasonably inexpensive S- or T-rated replacements. Tire Rack has lots of choices if you want to go this way. There are decent Yokohomas and Dunlops that can be had for around $60 apiece plus shipping and mount/bal. Your choice...
Thanks.
http://www.honda2001.com/models/accord_sedan/value.html
To give you some insight, i had a 98 Accord EX 4cyld Auto w\leather, 42k miles on it, and i sold it back in Feb. for 15,600, I was pleased, because i owed less then that on it. I also put down about 1200 when i bought the car.
Since you Lease that Car, i would just keep it for the next 9months and trade it in for the 2003 Accord, when it comes out next summer. I have never leased a car before so i am not sure if you are allowed to keep your lease car for a few months pass your lease end date on waiting for the 2003 model to come out next Aug.
Good Luck.
I am not a fan of going this large on this car - I would never put a wheel bigger than 17" on this chassis, but to each their own. Be prepared for very rapid tire wear.
I also want the better sound system, the rims, and ABS
THat mileage comes out to about 27 MPG, that's way bette than my Truck with 15 MPG
TMV on new ones isn't over $20000.
For about $2000/$3000 grand extra, get a used 2000/2001 EX V6, and enjoy a real Honda Accord!
i doubt tho you can get a new 2001 EX V6 for just $2000 higher--- i'd say you can get an LX 4 cylinder for around 18000, and an LX 6 cylinder for around 20000 to 20500.
Maybe you'd have a better go at buying a used 2000, if your budget is in the $16000 vicinity. But i gotta believe those VP package accords are going to have horrible resale value as well.
Does it accelerate poorly?, does it have "cheap" interior components?, are manual windows/door locks inferior?, how often would I really use cruise control?, did I want a new car or a used one?
I have many dreams but believe me they do not involve driving a car that I cannot afford.
So the VP met my needs and I am very happy with it. Do what works for you and your family.
I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in .
Looking forward to meeting everyone!
KarenS
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