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Comments
~alpha
Perhaps they should watch "Fargo" and reconsider their strategy for the upper U.S.
Though as several of us in colder states noted, the mirrors don't seem to need heating.
There are many reasons why this is not good advice:
- It's bad for your engine because the residual fuel that results from the incomplete combustion while the engine is cold tends to wash oil from the cylinder walls, which contaminates your oil and aggravates wear between the rings and cylinder bores. You want the engine to warm up as quickly as possible so that fuel combustion is more efficient, and the best way to do that is to drive the car at low to moderate speeds after around 30 seconds of "warm up".
- It's very hard on an engine to circulate cold oil, and since it takes much longer for the engine to warm up when idling, the oil remains cold much longer.
- The air/fuel mixture is much richer while the engine is warming up, so pollutants are sharply increased. To reduce your impact on air pollution, you should NOT warm up your engine by idling.
The air/fuel mixture issues have been improved by the more precise control provided by fuel injection, so they're less critical... but they're still issues.
If you want to do so, that's your choice... but it's not a practice that I would recommend to others.
" It's very hard on an engine to circulate cold oil, and since it takes much longer for the engine to warm up when idling, the oil remains cold much longer."
It is not hard on an engine to circulate cold oil. It would be hard on the engine if your oil is not circulating! Modern dyno oils won't congeal unless temps are <0 F, so if your car sits outside & your morning temps are that cold, I would reccomend synthetic. My cars are garaged, but I still prefer the synthetic. I usually let mine idle about 1 to 2 minutes then drive slow. It's just a little over a mile to the interstate & the engine is starting to warm up by then. I still don't flog it, but I'll slowing run up to speed limit & hold that for about 3 miles then go into my normal cruise of about 80.
My point exactly. When it's cold enough for the oil to begin to thicken, that's when even some people who don't make a regular practice of doing the "idle to warm up" thing may consider doing it, and that's at the worst possible time. Not everyone who does this runs synthetic.
~alpha
I have a speaker phone accessory that I used in my old car, but the placement of the 12v outlets in the Accord make for difficult placement of the accessory. Routing the microphone wire up near the sun visor is also made difficult due to the 'fuzzy' surface instead of a hard plastic (which means I can't use self-stick clips).
Any suggestions?
Peter
You may want to mount the mike on the dash panel even if you don't use a honda one. You can still get instructions on how to mount the mike there at http://www.cheaphondaparts.com/shop/instructions/aii24389.pdf
While I am not thrilled that XM was added to my model the year after I purchased my car (ditto head curtain airbags), at least I will be able to take my XM into my house and play it on a portable radio (Delphi SKYFi). I plan on installing the display unit in the storage bin underneath the Nav system so I can hide it when I park the car.
Also, has anyone used BestBuy to install any audio equipment in their new Accord? What was your experience?
Website: www.soundgate.com/products/cd/acura-honda.htm
This adapter does not work with the nav models and requires you to open it up and splice some wires together to make it compatible (www.chrishorne.com/gallery/SNHOND3). Doing this voids the warrantee BTW.
I'm not a huge audiophile anyway. I am getting the XM more for variety and for long trips than for improved sound quality. I had a CD changer in my wife's Blazer that used an FM modulator and the sound quality was fine by my standards.
While it is true that you might well stretch this out without undue wear and tear on your particular engine for your personal driving habits/environment, the only way you will know for sure just how much stretching is safe is after you find out how much is not! For the lifetime cost of oil changes at the higher frequency, it seems to me a poor gamble. YMMV
Respectfully:
How about adding some paragraph spacing for a little white space in your post. Interesting, but hard to read without some breaks in between thoughts.
" People break "lug nuts" and "studs" off wheels trying to change a tire on very cold mornings, because the metal is "weak" due to the temperature."
I doubt the metal gets weaker with cold temperatures that we experience here (maybe absolute zero types).
The breaking off may be due to different expansion/contraction factors for the lug nuts and the lugs. If the nut contracts more than the lug, the friction between them is higher. They need to be turned off more slowly.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I have to agree with your post. I noticed the manual stating that the vehicle should be started and driven after approx. 10sec. It is not recommended to idle longer. I disagree with the manual, on cold days I allow my vehicle to warm up to the normal operating temperature that the needle on the temperature gauge is always at. If I followed the manual's directions I noticed that my vehicle shifts harsh and it forces the vehicle. I have done this to all of our vehicle's and never had a problem with un-burned fuel, etc. To drive a vehicle off straight after it has been sitting out in the cold overnight and the temperatures are below freezing (e.g. what we have been experiencing in the past few weeks in NYC), is crazy and can damage a vehicle in my opinion.
Greg, Good Post!
Also, isn't HONDA oil synthetic oil?
Strangely, the Town Hall spell checker did not recognize the word "patooty." Go figure.....
Then I start moving without using much gas. The engine speed moves the car along. After a couple of minutes, I begin to speed up closer to the limit of 50 on the road.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
will cost 2-3 times what regular oil costs
Yes, we own an 04 Accord EX V6 w/Nav. The shifting is harsh and abrupt. When warmed up, no problem, shifts perfect. Whitecloud, the 5W-20, which company makes this grade in synthetic?
Thanks
you could use mobil1 0w20 synthetic:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_0W-2- 0.asp
My dad also found the 5W-20 regular oil made by Castrol. Does the 5W-30 make a huge difference? This is easy to obtain, MOBIL makes it in synthetic. Seems HONDA wants everyone to buy the oil from them only. I don't like that.
5w20.
http://www.castrolusa.com/products/default.asp?prod_mp=syn&sc- =hptosp
Thanks for the 411. This is great, do you know where this can be purchased?
thanks
i would hope that i don't need to warm the car up anymore than that! it just wastes gas and pollutes the air with colder (worse for enviroment) exhaust fumes...
in my Jetta, if you put the car in gear BEFORE it had been out of its high idle area at start up (before waiting 10 seconds or so), it would always almost stall, or worse, was always the time that one of my coils would decide to go....it needed to be babied and driven "just so" when cold. when warm - it was a HOOT!
so, ONE of the reasons i bought the Honda was because i need a no-fuss, just start the car and go, type car. the 240hp is just gravy (very very addictive gravy).
It is obvious from the questions that get asked in here that many people never bother to crack their manual open. And for those that do open the manual, many disagree with what is printed in it, in spite of the fact that the people who wrote the manual are the same ones who designed and built the car. But why on earth would we care what they say?
So, I propose that Honda just stop making manuals and pass the cost savings on to we the consumers through a lower-priced car. The people who don't read the manual can continue to ask their questions, and the people who disregard the manual in favor of their own notions of what is best can continue to do so without any pesky arguments from the rest of us about what the MANUFACTURER has to say on the subject.
Excellent post! You hit the nail right on the head. After all, the fact that Honda has built one of the top reputations among automakers for quality and reliability is mere coincidence... there's no way they could know the best methods to care for these reliable cars that they design.
If your car doesn't run well enough when cold to drive reliably, then you should warm it up until it will... the benefits of warming up the car by driving clearly don't justify the potential hazards of driving a car that's likely to stall in traffic while warming up. Obviously, your best bet is to correct the conditions that cause the poor operation when cold, if they can be corrected.
Glad to hear that your Accord is running better than your Jetta did!
I do have an issue with posts that recommend procedures or practices that contradict the manual. And I will respond, pointing out the deviation from recommendations, especially with those that might be truly detrimental to someone else's car. After all, some people might not realize that such recommendations run counter to those endorsed by Honda. And the people who are making such recommendations are not likely to come to your aid if you run into problems due to following their advice.
when someone posts nasty, "know-it-all", condesending, and completely counter-productive messages, i think it is because the internet is the only place where they can flex any type of "muscle". acting that way in real life isn't an option because they would get a "beat down" from someone eventually(haha), so they bring their frustration here. its kind of funny when you take a second to picture the person feverishly pounding out some of the messages that get posted on here! (smile)
anyway, just to clarify, my Accord V6 has NO problems at all with drivability, whether it is a "start and go" or a "start, warm for 10 seconds, and go". completely different world than the fun, but really moody, 1.8T from the VW.
having owned the Accord since Sept 3rd, and after almost 7500 miles, i can say that, in my opinion, the VW's that i have owned had more...."soul". still trying to pinpoint the exact reason i feel that way.
I am one of those people who read the owners manual from cover to cover, after having a flat tire on my 95 Tacoma and I had no idea how to lower the spare tire from its mount!! However, I realize that some items are really difficult to locate in the manual(index could be better).
I guess the posts that irk me the most are the questions that are asked in the wrong forum or that were answered 20 or 40 posts earlier.
Next would be, "My check engine light came on, what should I do? The car is only 6 weeks old." Duh, it's under warranty - do you really want the OPINION of people whom you have no idea as to their qualifications, or do you want to take it to a Honda dealer and let a Honda mechanic check it out, UNDER WARRANTY.
There are polite ways to point people in the right direction. If you aren't able to be polite, then you need to just not post.
There is no requirement to respond to a message that irritates you. Just skip it.
Let's get back to the Accord - we've been all over the place today.
Thanks.
for my 03 Honda Accord V6, i have to take it in soon for the 7500 mile service. was directed by the Honda dealer to NOT change the oil prior to 7500, even though i am clearly operating the car under "severe conditions" which call for oil changes every 3750 miles, per the OWNERS MANUAL. but again, the dealers in my area said DO NOT change oil at 3750.
now, on Honda's OWNER LINK website, the 7500 mile service includes an oil change, not an oil/filter change. repeat - 7500 calls for oil change and tire rotate, but NOT a filter change. that is a Honda website error, right??
are the new Honda filters really effective? or should i ask that they change the filter too?