I'd like to know the basic difference between these two models - I skimmed back about 30 pages but didn't see a comparison. If you could list them I'd really appreciate it.
Sorry I did not notice the Drum brake issue. Can you forward me a link? According to Honda China's official website, it seems all Accords are using Disc brakes:
Brake System Type FR/RR Ventilated Disks/Disks with ABS
US$20k for the white Accord is ridiculous. The Second hand car website at sina.com looks too good to be true. I won't bother myself to check them out.
The $7k posting says: 90% new, dual airbag, ABS+EBD, no major repair, alloy wheel, but it does not specify model year and mileage. You can ask your Chinese friend to give the seller a call to find out more information. I am not optimistic about the result though.
Again, used car market in China is still far from mature yet. I would rather wait for another year to have enough money for a new car.
Other alternatives are: Passat, Mazda 6, Toyota Reiz (new launch) etc. But I don't think the discussion of these models should be here.
I have a 03 Accord EX and would like to mount snow tires with steel wheels. The lug nuts appear different, but I cannot really tell because this is from inspection of mounted tires. What is the difference between the lug nuts for alloy tires and those for the steelies? Will I need to buy anything else, like washers, spacers, in addition to the lug nuts?
I just bought Accord SE and notice that AM reception is not as good as in my other car CR-V. Is it due to antenna is not external? Is it a common thing or it is just my car?
I have searched the Accord forum and I'm not finding information about which Accord Sedan models have a v6 engine so I'm using this discussion to ask. I'm interested in a 4-dr with v6.
You are right, Honda accord 2.4 has rear discs. I was completely mistaken. I should have checked this information before stating it. But if I have to pay the full new price (32K USD), then I would also consider the new Toyota Reiz that offer the smooth of 6 cylinder 2.5L and 35 more horse power for 1500 USD more.
Everybody I saw discourage me from buying second hand in China, but I never bought a car new so far. I never spent more than 16K USD buying a car, because it means loosing much more when reselling.
If you like sporty car, Reiz is a better choice than Accord. Base model 2.5S is only $26k (same engine).
I am not sure if you know this or not. As a foreign citizen, you may be eligible for bringing a car into China at a much lower import-tax rate. I am not very clear, but you can certainly check it out. Hopefully you can drive your BMW in China. :-)
My dealer just replaced a motor mount in a 2003 Accord, because of excessive vibration at idle with the A/C compressor on, the hydraulic brake applied and the transmission in "drive". It seems that there is a "kit" available from Honda for this problem. It was done under the extended warranty. I just though that I would pass this information on to those people that have this problem. ---- Best regards. Dwayne
To make your email address available to only registered, logged-in Forums members, just make it public in your profile or put it in the bio section. After andy has it, you can put your profile back the way it is now, if you want to.
i just updated my profile to make my own email public
but despite me signing-out and closing my browser, my forum profile is changed (when I access to it myself) but seems unchanged when I go to the message center.
just a word of congratulation for the quality information that I could find on your forum. On top of it, contributors act helpfully and courteously. I wish I could find such a Quality English speaking forum dealing about cars in China
There is a poster on another forum who said the 2007 is going to be a completely different Accord. It seems like the accord changed not too long ago but I could be wrong. Does anyone have any links/info on the 2007 accord?
I have never heard of rear brakes needing replacement more often than the fronts. The rears do only 30% of the braking which is why they typically last much longer.
I came back from Fla last Spring after a nameless Dodge product with bad brakes and realized my 03 Accord was even worse. The dealer agreed and replaced the back brakes at25000. It is near perfect now. Check out Some of the owner reviews , Brakes seem to be a problem for most 03 Accords as 25 out of 80 owners complained about the brakes
I have an 06 Accord 4dr, and have also noticed the AM reception is not as good as my old 95 Civic with the rod antenna. The AM reception is also more directional - better/worse depending on which direction the car is going.
Just curious... I have been at the dealership this morning, regarding the leasing of the new (amazing) Civic for my daughter, and was very frustrated to find out that the new Civic has DRL, but no Auto-Shut-Off for the headlights... So once I get the Civic, I will take it straight to a professional to install the Auto-Shut-off, a $250 investment, based on what I did in the past with my '95 Accord....
My '05 (V6 EX) Accord doesn't have DRL, but it has Auto-Shut-off, so I drive with my headlights on all the time, and don't have to worry about ever switching the lights on and off.
Just curious, how is the new, '06 Accord handling it? I think it has the DRL, but what about Auto-Shut-Off?
I have this set up for my 03. You will need different lug nuts if you want to use the factory honda hubcaps with the steel wheels. The hubcap version has an attached black plastic washer to hold the hubcaps in place.
Order them online, they are $1 each. Dealers want $5 each.
Just wondering if other new Accord owners have encountered this....
I have noticed that the coolant in the plastic reservoir is slowly disappearing... Since the one driving the car is my wife, I get a chance to open the hood once or twice a month...
Last week she let me borrow the car (...) and when checking in the morning the reservoir was practically EMPTY. I opened the radiator cap, but the radiator itself was full.
I drove to the dealership, and with a hot engine there was a tiny amount of the coolant visible in the reservoir. The mechanic suggested to check the system under pressure, but I was in a hurry so I asked him to add some coolant for now. I marked the level with a marker. I want to test it in the next week or so.
BTW, the temp. gauge on this car has never reached even the middle, always between 1/4 and 1/2.
Just wondering whether others have been having this problem of disappearing coolant.
Rest assured, the car's coolant is going somewhere. The pertinent questions are, where, and how quickly. If you're lucky, it's merely normal evaporative loss* and you just noticed it because of too little routine personal involvement. If you're unlucky, you have a pinhole leak from a hose or a bad waterpump seal, and the amount lost evaporates about as quickly as it leaks, so, no puddles. If you're really unlucky, you could have a blown headgasket allowing coolant seapage into one or more cylinders during the intake stroke. When that happens, most of the leakage gets blown out the exhaust pipe during the combustion stroke - again, no puddles. But, some will be pushed past the piston rings from compression loading into the sump as vapor, and whatever remains behind at shutdown will condense back to liquid and mix with the oil. If present, this condition is very bad. First, because it's progressive, and second because antifreeze is extremely corrosive to bearing metals. You need to make time to track this loss down for peace of mind or to stop something very insideous and expensive from getting out of hand.
*Antifreeze concentrate has an extremely high boiling point. But half the volume of mixed engine coolant is good ol' water. The water component will slowly evaporate over time - even in a sealed system since whatever's expelled into the overflow reservoir is either no longer under pressure while there or still subject to pressure venting depending on the design of the overflow system.
Maybe this thread on Usenet is a reasonable explanation?
Someone says the air bubbles in new cars are still working its way through the system and coolant level goes down as it fills in those areas that were occupied by the bubbles.
My 2006 Accord had low coolant, but I don't know yet if it's been disappearing or just started out low.
Hello all. I have a 1990 Accord 5 speed 2.2 with 166K. I took my first roadtrip in the car this weekend and towards the end of the trip (250 miles) some strange things started happening. I didn't notice anything electrical at first. The brake light came on like the parking brake was stuck but it wasn't. Then I noticed the radio and heater had lost power. Then when I got off the highway and used the clutch, when depressed, there was some godawful grinding noise but it really didn't feel or sound like the gears. I shut the car off and restarted it and everything was back to normal. All the way back home it ran just fine. Has anyone ever had anything like this happen? What in the world could have caused all that? I have no clue. I'm really hoping someone can shed some light on this. Thank you.
I remember seeing a picture (probably on the MSN home page) of the 2008 redesign. It most likely was a concept build but I've read a few posts in various locations about the 2008 redesign. Does anyone have any good links with somewhat more direct sources of info on the 2008 model?
I guess I'll just wait and see... As I mentioned, I used a marker to mark the level on the reservoir after the guy at Honda added the coolant. I will check it once a week.
Will post here if there is anything to write home about...
I replaced the OEM Michelin tires for tires that would appear to be better in the rain, slush and snow of an extreme Iowa winter.
I selected the 225/60/16 Michelin Hydoedge 90,000 miles warranty tires for my 2005 EX-L I4 Accord. They rank (on Michelin's list) as their premium tire and have maximum ratings on all but snow, I also hit a sale at Sears. Since they have been around since 2003 does anyone have any comments about them...Michelin also gives a two-year unconditional warranty on defects including road hazard, etc.
Initially they are mucho quieter than the OEM Michelins and even driving in the light snowfall and rain we have had since I installed them has been trouble free, stable and very reassuring! Road irregularities are less pronounced and the noise of some of these terrible Iowa roads has all but been eliminated. Tracking over the various road surfaces I have been experimenting on has been impeccable... much better than the OEMs.
Their quietness has been noted by even my passengers. With the 90,000 mile warranty, they should be good until I get rid of the car... come on 2009 Accord (everyone's car of the year)! Comments?????
DRLs are safer to have on your auto, they only have your low beams at about 50% power...they are a great safety item...ask your insurance representative. My 05 Accord does not have DRL but I also drive with the low beams on...which turns on my fog lights too. You must live in Canada and had a Canadian 05 Accord. GM had DRL on all their cars but started removing it on some low-end autos because of the cost...now let's talk about those standard heated seats...I'm in heaven in this cold weather (for November).
I was looking at getting either the bridgestone turanza LSH or V's for my 04 v6 sedan. How you like the 225's instead of the oem 205's? I thought the hydroegdes were a s or t rated tire? The oem 205/60r/16' size does seem to limit the variety of tires we can choose from.
Ther is plenty of space to use the 225/60/16 instead of the 205/60/16. What rating are you talking about? I don't understand. The new tires definitely have a wider footprint and I am happy for that. I have used oversize premium (from OEM) tires on autos for the last 20 years. I also change oil every 3,000 miles , not only to use fresh synthetic oil, but it gives me a chance to check fluids and catch any obvious problems in the engine compartment. To me, such a large investment needs to be pampered, and fresh oil is cheap at any price. When I started in the work force many years ago preventive maintenance sure kept the service calls down and the customers happy, now I keep myself happy.
Sears did not have the 225/60/16 in stock, they had to be ordered from Chicago. Now their service manager says that the 60 profile 16 inch tires will be carried here because I was about the 4th person who asked about that size in a week, ...smart manager who seems to be on top of his inventory.
The rating I mentioned is the speed rating for a tire. The OEM Michelins that came on my car have a "V" speed rating. I was thinking of dropping down to an "H" rated tire..but I dont think I would go down to a "T" rated tire like the hydroedges.
M 81 mph 130 km/h N 87 mph 140km/h Temporary Spare Tires P 93 mph 150 km/h Q 99 mph 160 km/h Studless & Studdable Winter Tires R 106 mph 170 km/h H.D. Light Truck Tires S 112 mph 180 km/h Family Sedans & Vans T 118 mph 190 km/h Family Sedans & Vans U 124 mph 200 km/h H 130 mph 210 km/h Sport Sedans & Coupes V 149 mph 240 km/h Sport Sedans, Coupes & Sports Cars
Yes this does seem to be a complex deal. Everyone seems to have a different opinion. To me Id put an S rated tire on a car like a civic or corolla..but a car like a camry or accord I think needs an H rated tire. Im always leary of coming down in speed rating from what the factory put on the car.
Well, the S rating is 112mph. Unless you are on a roundie-roundie race track, I doubt you will be able to sustain 112mph for anything close to one hour.
So, this should be a safe tire for what I consider 99.9999999% of all drivers.
On my 1991 Tarus SHO, with V (or was it even higher rated tires), I ran the car to 135mph (there was more left). When they wore out, at about 25,000 miles, I put S rated tires on it and never drove it anywhere near this fast again.
I've driven my 2002 V6 Accord to 120mph (how many of you Accord owners have done this? Car and Driver got 132 out of this car, I think.) with its V rated tires. I've had to repair a nail puncture in one of these tires, and I don't think I would ever take this repaired tire to anything like this speed again.
But, if you think the high speed rating gives you some extra safety, go for it. I'm sure the tire company will sell them to you.
Sudden, catastropic tire failure is going to usually be caused by manufactoring or component (rubber, belt, etc) error, puncture from road hazard, or overheating from running underpressurized. I think there are very few tire failures cased by a tire being driven past its speed rating.
...Checked again this morning on a hot engine, and the coolant is about 1/2" LOWER than my own "hot" marking that I marked on the reservoir.... Still waiting before taking the car to the dealership (which I need to in a week or two for my FIRST, 4,000 miles oil change).
I am sure that if there is a leak, it's somewhere outside the engine, probably a hose clamp that needs to be tightened....
...After all, I can't believe a brand new car would have coolant going INTO the engine!!!...
However, am just curious, haefr, if there WAS such a leak, what would the symptoms be? how could I detect it myself? The car runs fine, the engine very smooth.
I know under Honda's extended warranty, Honda gives you a phone number for free road assistance. Isn't this service part of the ORIGINAL 3/36 warranty also? And if yes, WHAT IS THAT PHONE NUMBER? I'd like to keep it in my '05 Accord glove compartment.
If you go down in speed rating on your car, it may not handle as well as you are used to. Tires with higher speed ratings are stiffer and generally provide you with better handling.
Comments
I'd like to know the basic difference between these two models - I skimmed back about 30 pages but didn't see a comparison. If you could list them I'd really appreciate it.
http://www.guangzhouhonda.com.cn/english/accord/accord_guige.jsp
Under "Specifications":
Brake System
Type FR/RR
Ventilated Disks/Disks with ABS
US$20k for the white Accord is ridiculous. The Second hand car website at sina.com looks too good to be true. I won't bother myself to check them out.
The $7k posting says: 90% new, dual airbag, ABS+EBD, no major repair, alloy wheel, but it does not specify model year and mileage. You can ask your Chinese friend to give the seller a call to find out more information. I am not optimistic about the result though.
Again, used car market in China is still far from mature yet. I would rather wait for another year to have enough money for a new car.
Other alternatives are: Passat, Mazda 6, Toyota Reiz (new launch) etc. But I don't think the discussion of these models should be here.
Good luck!
Thanks in advance for all responses,
Joe
I don't think you need anything for using steel wheels, cause I'm assuming you already have at least one (spare).
Mrbill
Is it a common thing or it is just my car?
Thanks
When it says "Sedan V6" it is a 4-door Accord car that has a V6 engine in the front of the car, under the hood.
:surprise:
You are right, Honda accord 2.4 has rear discs. I was completely mistaken. I should have checked this information before stating it.
But if I have to pay the full new price (32K USD), then I would also consider the new Toyota Reiz that offer the smooth of 6 cylinder 2.5L and 35 more horse power for 1500 USD more.
Everybody I saw discourage me from buying second hand in China, but I never bought a car new so far. I never spent more than 16K USD buying a car, because it means loosing much more when reselling.
I need to make more money anyway
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=102
Good Luck.
I am not sure if you know this or not. As a foreign citizen, you may be eligible for bringing a car into China at a much lower import-tax rate. I am not very clear, but you can certainly check it out. Hopefully you can drive your BMW in China. :-)
As this is becoming off-subject, can we discuss off list? Is there any secure way I can give you my email?
br
Thanks Pat for the tip.
i just updated my profile to make my own email public
but despite me signing-out and closing my browser, my forum profile is changed (when I access to it myself) but seems unchanged when I go to the message center.
just a word of congratulation for the quality information that I could find on your forum. On top of it, contributors act helpfully and courteously. I wish I could find such a Quality English speaking forum dealing about cars in China
I can not see andy'email yet
Thanks
When we gave the car to our daughter at 90K miles, the front brakes were original and they still had enough left on the pads.
I have heard the rear brakes come with thinner pads.
Steve
My '05 (V6 EX) Accord doesn't have DRL, but it has Auto-Shut-off, so I drive with my headlights on all the time, and don't have to worry about ever switching the lights on and off.
Just curious, how is the new, '06 Accord handling it? I think it has the DRL, but what about Auto-Shut-Off?
Order them online, they are $1 each. Dealers want $5 each.
==================
The 06 Accord has DRL (easily disabled if you don't like them) and auto shutoff of the headlights.
This is my first Accord, so I don't have anything to compare handling.
Steve
I have noticed that the coolant in the plastic reservoir is slowly disappearing... Since the one driving the car is my wife, I get a chance to open the hood once or twice a month...
Last week she let me borrow the car (...) and when checking in the morning the reservoir was practically EMPTY. I opened the radiator cap, but the radiator itself was full.
I drove to the dealership, and with a hot engine there was a tiny amount of the coolant visible in the reservoir. The mechanic suggested to check the system under pressure, but I was in a hurry so I asked him to add some coolant for now. I marked the level with a marker. I want to test it in the next week or so.
BTW, the temp. gauge on this car has never reached even the middle, always between 1/4 and 1/2.
Just wondering whether others have been having this problem of disappearing coolant.
*Antifreeze concentrate has an extremely high boiling point. But half the volume of mixed engine coolant is good ol' water. The water component will slowly evaporate over time - even in a sealed system since whatever's expelled into the overflow reservoir is either no longer under pressure while there or still subject to pressure venting depending on the design of the overflow system.
Someone says the air bubbles in new cars are still working its way through the system and coolant level goes down as it fills in those areas that were occupied by the bubbles.
My 2006 Accord had low coolant, but I don't know yet if it's been disappearing or just started out low.
Thanks
I guess I'll just wait and see... As I mentioned, I used a marker to mark the level on the reservoir after the guy at Honda added the coolant. I will check it once a week.
Will post here if there is anything to write home about...
I selected the 225/60/16 Michelin Hydoedge 90,000 miles warranty tires for my 2005 EX-L I4 Accord. They rank (on Michelin's list) as their premium tire and have maximum ratings on all but snow, I also hit a sale at Sears. Since they have been around since 2003 does anyone have any comments about them...Michelin also gives a two-year unconditional warranty on defects including road hazard, etc.
Initially they are mucho quieter than the OEM Michelins and even driving in the light snowfall and rain we have had since I installed them has been trouble free, stable and very reassuring! Road irregularities are less pronounced and the noise of some of these terrible Iowa roads has all but been eliminated. Tracking over the various road surfaces I have been experimenting on has been impeccable... much better than the OEMs.
Their quietness has been noted by even my passengers. With the 90,000 mile warranty, they should be good until I get rid of the car... come on 2009 Accord (everyone's car of the year)! Comments?????
Sears did not have the 225/60/16 in stock, they had to be ordered from Chicago. Now their service manager says that the 60 profile 16 inch tires will be carried here because I was about the 4th person who asked about that size in a week, ...smart manager who seems to be on top of his inventory.
New tires:
225*.60=135mm
135mm*2=270mm
16in=406.40mm
New diameter=406.40+270=676.40mm
OEM tires:
205*.60=123mm
123mm*2=246mm
16in=406.40mm
New diameter=406.40+246=652.40mm
So the new tires are 3.7% larger in diameter than OEM. Tirerack suggests +/-3%, so this would be close enough.
M 81 mph 130 km/h
N 87 mph 140km/h Temporary Spare Tires
P 93 mph 150 km/h
Q 99 mph 160 km/h Studless & Studdable Winter Tires
R 106 mph 170 km/h H.D. Light Truck Tires
S 112 mph 180 km/h Family Sedans & Vans
T 118 mph 190 km/h Family Sedans & Vans
U 124 mph 200 km/h
H 130 mph 210 km/h Sport Sedans & Coupes
V 149 mph 240 km/h Sport Sedans, Coupes & Sports Cars
But, in general, the speed rating is a speed the tire will surive testing at the maximum load rating, at the maximun air pressure, for ONE HOUR.
The testing changes these values for various tires, but as I said, this is what the test involves 'in general'.
I personally think a speed rating of "S" is fine for most peoples personal sedan usage.
So, this should be a safe tire for what I consider 99.9999999% of all drivers.
On my 1991 Tarus SHO, with V (or was it even higher rated tires), I ran the car to 135mph (there was more left). When they wore out, at about 25,000 miles, I put S rated tires on it and never drove it anywhere near this fast again.
I've driven my 2002 V6 Accord to 120mph (how many of you Accord owners have done this? Car and Driver got 132 out of this car, I think.) with its V rated tires. I've had to repair a nail puncture in one of these tires, and I don't think I would ever take this repaired tire to anything like this speed again.
But, if you think the high speed rating gives you some extra safety, go for it. I'm sure the tire company will sell them to you.
Sudden, catastropic tire failure is going to usually be caused by manufactoring or component (rubber, belt, etc) error, puncture from road hazard, or overheating from running underpressurized. I think there are very few tire failures cased by a tire being driven past its speed rating.
I am sure that if there is a leak, it's somewhere outside the engine, probably a hose clamp that needs to be tightened....
...After all, I can't believe a brand new car would have coolant going INTO the engine!!!...
However, am just curious, haefr, if there WAS such a leak, what would the symptoms be? how could I detect it myself? The car runs fine, the engine very smooth.
No - Honda does not offer roadside assitance as part of it's 3/36 warranty.