Does anyone know if an alignment is covered under 3/36 B to B warranty. My 04 Accord EX/L has a pull to the left, and steering wheel is off center. Currently have 23K miles. If not how much should I expect to pay for an alignment. Thanks, Catam.
Alignments on FWD cars with strut suspensions consist of toe-in/toe-out adjustments. Caster and Camber settings are welded to spec at the factory - the only way those items can be adjusted is by brute hydraulic force - not a procedure to be undertaken lightly since bending metal more than once weakens it. A pull could also be the result of a bad tire, defective brake caliper, a bad half-shaft support bearing, or a bad wheel shaft constant velocity joint. Check and adjust all four tires to the owner's manual recommended air pressure - sometimes that's all the problem is. However, if the left pull is still present, try swapping the front tires side-for-side. If the pull occurs to the right after the switch, you have a bad tire - usually a shifted tread ply belt - and which might be at least partially covered under any applicable road hazard warranty. If the car still pulls to the left, you're looking at some sort of front end work. Most car makers only cover wheel alignment under warranty up through the first year or twelve-thousand miles of ownership - whichever comes first.
Recently took a walk through the dealers Accord lot looking over the 06's and was struck by the beauty of the these new wheels, shod with 215 50 17 tires. Sure do look a whole lot better than the hub caps covering my '05 LX steel wheels. But how and where would to find them at a reasonable price? Nothing so far on Ebay.
Something else, the dealer has '05's coming out heir ears and their prices are still sky high... Hyundai is capturing market share quite rapidly.
I think the alignment falls under the Wear Items category and is covered for 12mo/12k miles. The dealer may re-align the car as a goodwill gesture, but I don't think they are required to. An alignment at a dealer is probably about $60-75, and an independent alignment shop is probably more like $50-60.
I just got my oil changed at approx. 6k on my 06 Honda Accord Sedan. My maintan. minder said I had 20% oil life left. I probably could have made it to 7k before changing my oil, but due to work schedule, I figured I would do it a little early.
I have read posts about when to do oil changes, but it gets more confusing to me, especially after what my service dept. rep. told me.
After I had my oil changed they put a sticker for my next oil change for 3.5k. I was taken aback by the short length of time before my next oil change, so I called back the service dept. I asked him why such a short oil change interval, and what use is the maint. minder if I can't follow it's % oil life measure guide. The service representative told me that the maint. minder is a general guideline and the most I should really go is 5,000 miles between oil changes. He said that due to the harsh winters in the Northeast I shouldn't go beyond that number.
Personally, I really don't believe him and feel he is trying to just milk more money out of Honda customers, but my concern is if I do change oil every 7k or so miles, what will happen to my warranty if something goes wrong with the engine. Can Honda claim that I didn't follow the dealers recommended oil change intervals and therefore, my warranty is void? I am currently leaning towards my maintan. minder as my guide towards the recommended intervals of changing oil, but I might be a little more cautious and change every 5k just to be safe.
Has anyone else gotten their oil changed on 06 Accords, and if you did, what did the service dept. recommend for oil change intervals.
Honestly, what good are these maintanence minders, if they are not accurate.
Let me give you the maintenance schedule for the 2003-2005 Accord (which are the same engines): 10k normal/5k severe for the I-4, and 7.5k normal/3.75k severe for the V-6.
Personally, I change mine at 5k miles ('03 EX 4-cyl), even though my driving is probably closer to "normal" than "severe". You will get opinions from all over the spectrum--do what you feel comfortable with.
I just got a 06' Accord LX SE Sedan and I want to replace the speakers in the front doors. How difficult is it to get the door panels off. I've looked and can't seem to find any screws to first take out. I don't want to mess of the panels. Thanks.
I wanted to have the Honda Music Link installed when it becomes available for the 06 Accord next month, but just found out that artist/title info is not displayed. The iPod's display itself only says "OK to disconnect". On Mercedes models you get artist/track info displayed on the dash. I'm disappointed in Honda (this applies to Acura models as well). It looks like I'll have to look for another solution.
The factory anti-theft system will go off by its self at random times while parked. Sometimes while starting the car, sometimes while opening the door to get out, and sometimes while no one is in or around the car. Driving me nuts! Please help.
I have a 2005 Accord Sedan LX and I was wondering if anyone knew if there was a AUX input on the stereo head unit. From what I've read, I'm led to believe there isn't, but then how can things like the OEM tape deck or the OEM XM radio be installed? Any help would be much appreciated. Also, if anyone has had any success connecting an iPod to their Accord please let me know, I live in LA, so things like the Griffin iTrip don't work. Thanks.
AFTER LOTS OF RESEARCH, I'M STILL TRYING TO GET MY PCV LOCATION ON MY 88 ACCORD LXI FUEL INJECTED..I GUESS IT'S SUPPOSE TO BE IN SOME HOSE, WHICH ONE, HELP PLEASE!!!!STEVE
Who are you going to believe, your local grease monkey or Honda engineers? Listen to the engineers who wrote your vehicle manual designed your vehicle; not the mumblings of a minimum wage earner.
Took my '05 Lx-4 into the dealer for their offered free first oil change at 4k miles. They used Quaker State oil(not Honda oil). Their monkey put a 3k mile change sticker on the window and over inflated the tire to 40 psig.
As a Chemical Engineer the last thing I would think of doing is trying to reason with a quick change technician, while they are in the process of making money. As for me, I'll get rid of the Quaker state at 10K miles and follow the manual with oil changes every 10k, hedging my bets with the use of synthetic oil. I don't trust the quick change places and enjoy changing it myself. Some engines are prone to sludging, '98-2000 Toyota V6's for example. But a Honda 4 cylinder is wonderfully desigend machine, nearly bullet proof, and has a recommended oil change interval that is 50% longer than their V-6. I'm toying with the idea of chaning just the filter every 5k miles and topping off the oil, that way the additives are replenished to some extent.
My dream car is the 2006 EX V-6 with the 6-speed manual transmission. Anyone out there who owns this car willing to give a report? Specifically, I'd be interested to know if for someone who likes shifting it's significantly more fun to drive than a 5-speed.
Unfortunately I scratched the plastic piece that runs the length of the rear right door (door protector) which is not a big deal but I want to replace it. I already ordered the part online for $28 (which I think is very expensive for a piece of plastic but I digress) and will get it soon.
Does anyone know how to replace it? I pried the old one and there are some clips behind it. But it does not look like those clips will fall behind. Would I have to remove the inside door compartment to get to the backs of those clips? Any help is appreciated.
I have a 2003 Accord LX. I installed the Soundgate SNHOND3 digital interface which allows the connection of one set of auxiliary RCA inputs into some 2003-2005 Honda vehicles when there is no separate CD changer or XM radio present. Go to soundgate.com for details. The price for the interface is $114.95, you also need to order the rca and headphone jack connectors. I had never done an install like this, but it was surprisingly simple. It is a bit tricky removing the shifter cover, coin/lighter, and cubby under the HVAC controls, but once you have those removed, you just plug in to the back of the oem head unit. I routed the cable so that it came up through the armrest. With the 12V supply in there, it makes a slick installation. By the way, I have the 20GB Dell DJ MP3 player. Let me know if anyone needs more info about the install. Good luck, hope this helps.
Obviously the service advisor is drumming up business, but that doesn't mean his points are without merit. Here's my take on motor oil and oil filter changes. Operation in freezing temperatures definitely falls under the "severe service" category as defined in the owner's manual. Reason? Most commutes are short enough that the oil won't completely warm up. Add to that the fact that cold weather operation contaminates the oil with additional water (condensation) and raw fuel ("blowby" during engine warmup). So, is your warranty in jeopardy if you follow the oil-life monitor. In a word, NO. Your warranty is provided by Honda, not the take-yer-money-ship. Will adhering to the oil-life monitor prevent you from achieving more than 100,000 miles before major engine work is required? NO. (nor does it guarantee you will achieve more than 100,000 miles, either) Will more frequent oil and oil filter changes result in even longer engine life? In a word, PROBABLY - fewer dilution and acidic contaminants for the bearings and piston rings to deal with are logically conducive to longer working life, not to mention less liklihood of sludge buildup. On the other hand, if you purchase or lease every two or three years, it's probably a moot point - after all, if there's a problem developing, it'll be the next guy's problem, right?
(Someone PLEASE ask me why I won't even consider a rental or a previously leased car - especially a M-B or a BMW... )
"Listen to the engineers who wrote your vehicle manual designed your vehicle; not the mumblings of a minimum wage earner."
Assuming that's excellent advice, you should definitely take it. The engineers who were consulted for the American market Accords recommend an oil filter change every other oil change - that comes out to every 20,000 miles.(!) :surprise: By the way, the recommendation for oil and filter changes for Japanese home market Honda cars and the rest of Asia is every 3,000 miles. I guess the home market Japanese engineers aren't as smart as their offshore corporate counterparts over here, huh? Oh, one more thing, QS motor oil, and Pennzoil, too, are now products of SOPUS (Shell Oil Petroleum, U.S.) Both are fully formulated motor oils meeting current API "SM" and ILSAC "GF-4" specifications and easily the equal or better of Mobil Clean 5000 or Exxon Superflow in 5W-20 viscosity. Golly, why did I mention Mobil and Exxon? If you check the backside of Honda motor oil bottles, it states plainly, "Produced by ExxonMobil Corporation" (But, at least it costs more through the take-yer-money-ships' parts departments, so it must be the best conventional motor oil available, right? )
These are attached with clips, and it seems like there is a trick to removing the clips after you pry the old protector piece. I just do not want to experiment because I do not want to scratch the paint.
If it is an "oil life monitor," then it should be monitoring the condition of the oil and indicating when the oil life is getting low and therefore should be changed. That would take into account any driving conditions and adjust the mileage where the indicator lights up as needed.
"OK haefr, I'll bite. Why won't you "even consider a rental or a previously leased car - especially a M-B or a BMW"?"
For the simple reason these are cars that have most likely had the livin' snot* run out of 'em with minimal maintenance. All the rental agencies and leasees really need to care about is, a) having the "normal service" maintenance performed (for leasees, more often than not "free" through the dealerships of high-end rides), and, more importantly, b) maintaining a pristine exterior and interior. The rental agency or leasing dealership knows that if the car looks great inside and outside, will start and run without obviously alarming noise(s), and has service records (even if only of minimal service), the cash-flush or well-credited unwary will snap up a road-hungry Mercedes or BMW without question just to get the roundel or three-pointed star on the hood. On the BITOG site, someone posted pictures of a beautifully maintained five year old Mercedes S500's engine at tear-down that had just come off of lease with only 20,000 miles on it - full service history and so on. The engine seized up three weeks after the hapless buyer drove it home. The engine was completely varnished and sludged internally - Mercedes infamous "FSS" oil life monitor system, concocted by Mercedes justly famous engineers who "know their cars best", had allowed ONE oil change during that 20,000 miles at the 18,000 mile mark. Even if the dealership had used conventional oil, that engine still wouldn't have tanked in just 2,000 miles. That damage occurred during the first 18,000 miles with the $9.00/quart synthetic oil Mercedes used as factory fill. The factory-fill oil had simply been overdriven for the useage patterns that motor had been exposed to. Cost of the discounted replacement motor and labor? $15,000.00 after Mercedes North America agreed to pick up part of the tab on a post-warranty vehicle.
(Mercedes abandoned the "FSS" oil life monitoring system with model year 2004 and later. Required oil and oil filter service is set to 13,000 mile intervals or 1 yr., whichever comes first, now, using only Mercedes special synthetic oil and a polyester "fleece" oil filter.)
*This can be low speed urban crawl in hot or very cold weather as easily as wide-open throttle operation on interstates. (The latter is probably the least stressful, in fact, because the motor is fully warmed and operating closest to the ideal 14.7:1 stoichiometric air to fuel mixture. In urban crawl, the motor is running on the rich side at idle, and more so every time the vehicle must acclerate from a dead stop - compounded motor oil fuel dilution, just the ticket for varnish and sludge formation.) I'm not trying to rain on anybody's parade, blane, not even yours. I'm trying to interject a little common sense that may save an owner of my favorite marque from some grievous expense and frustration. Hope to own another Accord in two or three years after my stint with my current '03 Hyundai Sonata. (My '96 Accord was hands-down the BEST car I ever owned - never a problem over seven years. It was bullet-proof - too bad it also wasn't owner-proof...)
Only the automanufacturer can issue the warranty - the dealers are merely their agents for warranty service performance. Assuming you reside in the U.S., you are ALWAYS free to choose any U.S. Honda dealer for whatever warranty service may be required. The same is true for routine maintenance. Anytime your car is serviced, that service is entered into Honda's national dealership data-base. Wherever you happen to be in the U.S., if your car needs a warranty repair, the repairing Honda dealer will know exactly what the service history if your car is if it's always been serviced by any U.S. Honda dealership. If you do your own routine maintenance, your warranty is still always valid. Just keep the dated receipts for materials (fluids, filters, etc.) and a hand-written log of what was done and when as evidence of timely service in your glove compartment as proof. (Incidenatlly, if Honda or a dealership believes you comitted fraud in stating you performed service, or performed it incorrectly, that lead to component failure, they're legally entitled to challenge you in open court and PROVE you screwed up. Just accusing you of incompetence, though, is NEVER considered proof by the court. Their burden is the same as criminal liability: beyond a reasonable doubt. The courts, however, more often give the car owner considerable leeway if the log and receipts are up to date.) If you have an independent shop do routine servicing, again, keep the dated receipts for services performed from that shop in your glove compartment. Read your warranty supplement booklet that'll be packed in the owner's manual portfolio. If any dealership tells you that you must have his service department perform all servicing, he's lying to you and in violation of the Moss-Magnusen Warranty Rights Act Ammendmant. (The FTC would love to hear from you if that ever happens - they get off on that sort of thing.)
I've had my 06' Accord LX SE 4cyl. a/AT for about two weeks now. I've taken it on two trips over the holidays. I traveled from Dayton to Chicago over Christmas and got 31.5 mpg on the way up and 32 mpg on the way back. That's a little over 600 miles roundtrip. Over New Years went from Dayton to Knoxville, TN and got 32.5 mpg on the way down and 34.5 mpg on the way home. Again a little over 600 miles round trip. Big difference in the mpg on the way home I credit to the 50 degree weather.
The car handled great on both trips. The engine was quiet and smooth running. Handled the mountains in Tenn. with ease. The ride was comfortable but I would agree with some of the posters that the seats could be a little more comfortable. One of the things I have noticed is that when driving at about 35 mph and the rpm's at 1500 it seems a little sluggish. I figure that is the case when you mate a 4 cyl. to a 5AT. I've taken to just dropping it down a gear. I mentioned this to my brother who has a new Toyota Avalon with 260+ hp 6 cyl. with 5AT and he said his seems to do the same thing. He thought his was hunting for the right gear.
Now I understand all the complaining about the ivory interior. It shows everything and my wife and I are pretty neat people with no kids. Fortunately, this is a two year lease. I won't opt for that interior again even its' the only one offered with the White ext. My other minor compaint is the speakers. My wife's 03' CR-V's stereo actually sounds better to me than the Accord's. I'm going to change out just the front door speakers to Sony 3-ways and check the improvement.
All in all I'm very happy with the car. I think the LX SE is an excellent value. I'm still longing for the Civic EX coupe but will revisit that when my lease runs out.
I have a Honda Accord V6 2001 50,000miles and the SRS light came on a few weeks ago Its the red light and it stays on(the first few times it went on and off but now it stays on)
Can someone please tell me what it might mean and if it will cause any other problems if I keep driving it
Thanks for the report on your 06 SE! What speed were you going to get that mileage? I was tempted by the ivory interior for my next car (whenever that happens), but after what you said I think I'll avoid it (we have 2 kids). How is the 6 disc CD changer on the stereo? I have an 02 Accord, and I think the stereo on your is better than mine. What about braking power? The SE has electronic brake distribution and rear disc brakes (LXs still have drum brakes, which aren't quite as good).
I took it to the friendly people at Carr's Honda in Chicago, they have a body shop there. Their tech came out with the putty knife and pulled the piece off as he was working his way with the putty knife. No scratches whatsoever. The old clips came out with the piece so nothing fell into the door compartment. Then went the new piece in. Took 10 minutes max.
OK the airbags, I know thats dangerous but I'm glad it has nothing to do with anything under the hood! I dont have $ now but I'll get it looked at in the future
I just moved to NY and dont know any mechanics and I know the dealership here is outrageous I went there to get an oil change and when they told me how much I went down the street to Jiffy
Thanks for the info, I'm a woman and u know we are excellent drivers so I'll be fine I hope.
On the trip back from Tenn., which was when I got the 34.5 mpg, I had the cruise set on 70 mph for probably 80% of the time. The 6 disc changer works very well. It's quieter changes discs than my wifes 03' CRV EX. I think the brakes are excellent. My wife thinks they're too touchy. I haven't tried any emergency type stops to check stopping distance.
This same thing happened to my 2000 Accord @ 60k... the first problem for the vehicle. My guess it is one of your seat belt mechanisms for the front seats has worn/failed... Could be left or right. The good news is that these parts, diagnostic and the labor associated w/ the airbag protection system should be covered 100% by Honda. That was what I was told and the dealer charged me zero. Good Luck.
Your observed MPGs are within the MPG rating for this model. I wonder what your MPGs would be if your drive is at least 60% city. My 06 Accord SE Auto is averaging less than 24 MPG on an 60-40 mixed city-highway driving! Rather disappointing.
Is anyone aware of a clock & odometer light problem. Both mine have been out for some time and not due to a fuse. I am just wondering if this is a common issue and how I should resolve it, I can get to the clock easily but not that odometer light? Thanks.
the clock is about a $10 repair .. you can do it yourself. The odometer sounds more involved. The temp light on my a/c also went out, and that was estimated to cost $55 to fix.
So let me see if I can follow your logic here Haefr:
Sentencial logic is always fascinating...
If changing your oil every 3000 miles & 3 months, instead of the recommended 10,000 miles; is a great deal and really good for your car...Then changing it every 300 miles will be even better, and then why not change it nightly and your car will last forever.
Now as to the changing it every three months; it is kind of like milk, in that it goes bad with time and even has a shelf life. So you should really shop for the freshest you can find.
I also have the oil and filter changed every 3,000 miles on all my vehicles. I own an Accord and a Ford Mustang. In addition, I have this service performed by the dealer. Both vehicles have an extended manufacturer's warranty. What is wrong with giving a vehicle high quality preventive maintenance? I run my vehicles to 100,000 miles,then I turn them in for a new model.----- Best regards. --- Dwayne
"I also have the oil and filter changed every 3,000 miles...What is wrong with giving a vehicle high quality preventive maintenance?"
While you obviously have plenty of money and time to waste, the majority of car owners don't. The 3,000-mile oil change interval is both a scam and a crap, designed to sustain and fatten the pockets of dealers and quick-lube shops. It's no high-quality maintenance.
Sounds rather arbitrary. If you are gonna change your engine oil every 3000 miles instead of factory recommended intervals, you might as well change all the fluids. And while you are at it, do the wipers and brakes. And those tire might need some work too. You never know when those tires might blow. And why wait til 60,00 miles to do the timing belt. Do it at every oil change.
Guess some people just have money to burn. Why in the world would these people not follow the owners manual intervals...why second guess the folks who designed the car? I will never understand some people in this forum. They all sound like that Gregory fellow who used to post here. I think he's still here under a different name though.
Comments
Sure do look a whole lot better than the hub caps covering my '05 LX steel wheels. But how and where would to find them at a reasonable price? Nothing so far on Ebay.
Something else, the dealer has '05's coming out heir ears and their prices are still sky high... Hyundai is capturing market share quite rapidly.
I have read posts about when to do oil changes, but it gets more confusing to me, especially after what my service dept. rep. told me.
After I had my oil changed they put a sticker for my next oil change for 3.5k. I was taken aback by the short length of time before my next oil change, so I called back the service dept. I asked him why such a short oil change interval, and what use is the maint. minder if I can't follow it's % oil life measure guide. The service representative told me that the maint. minder is a general guideline and the most I should really go is 5,000 miles between oil changes. He said that due to the harsh winters in the Northeast I shouldn't go beyond that number.
Personally, I really don't believe him and feel he is trying to just milk more money out of Honda customers, but my concern is if I do change oil every 7k or so miles, what will happen to my warranty if something goes wrong with the engine. Can Honda claim that I didn't follow the dealers recommended oil change intervals and therefore, my warranty is void? I am currently leaning towards my maintan. minder as my guide towards the recommended intervals of changing oil, but I might be a little more cautious and change every 5k just to be safe.
Has anyone else gotten their oil changed on 06 Accords, and if you did, what did the service dept. recommend for oil change intervals.
Honestly, what good are these maintanence minders, if they are not accurate.
Personally, I change mine at 5k miles ('03 EX 4-cyl), even though my driving is probably closer to "normal" than "severe". You will get opinions from all over the spectrum--do what you feel comfortable with.
http://www.tintdude.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t12234.html
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/faqs/l/bl066e.htm
http://www.acuramdx.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7607
The factory anti-theft system will go off by its self at random times while parked. Sometimes while starting the car, sometimes while opening the door to get out, and sometimes while no one is in or around the car. Driving me nuts! Please help.
Took my '05 Lx-4 into the dealer for their offered free first oil change at 4k miles. They used Quaker State oil(not Honda oil). Their monkey put a 3k mile change sticker on the window and over inflated the tire to 40 psig.
As a Chemical Engineer the last thing I would think of doing is trying to reason with a quick change technician, while they are in the process of making money. As for me, I'll get rid of the Quaker state at 10K miles and follow the manual with oil changes every 10k, hedging my bets with the use of synthetic oil. I don't trust the quick change places and enjoy changing it myself. Some engines are prone to sludging, '98-2000 Toyota V6's for example. But a Honda 4 cylinder is wonderfully desigend machine, nearly bullet proof, and has a recommended oil change interval that is 50% longer than their V-6. I'm toying with the idea of chaning just the filter every 5k miles and topping off the oil, that way the additives are replenished to some extent.
Thanks, Ben
Unfortunately I scratched the plastic piece that runs the length of the rear right door (door protector) which is not a big deal but I want to replace it. I already ordered the part online for $28 (which I think is very expensive for a piece of plastic but I digress) and will get it soon.
Does anyone know how to replace it? I pried the old one and there are some clips behind it. But it does not look like those clips will fall behind. Would I have to remove the inside door compartment to get to the backs of those clips? Any help is appreciated.
Are you referring to this?
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accord/03-2drbodysidetrim.pdf
Of course it's for the 2-door, but your dealer can probably show you the version for the 4-door.
(Someone PLEASE ask me why I won't even consider a rental or a previously leased car - especially a M-B or a BMW...
Assuming that's excellent advice, you should definitely take it. The engineers who were consulted for the American market Accords recommend an oil filter change every other oil change - that comes out to every 20,000 miles.(!) :surprise: By the way, the recommendation for oil and filter changes for Japanese home market Honda cars and the rest of Asia is every 3,000 miles. I guess the home market Japanese engineers aren't as smart as their offshore corporate counterparts over here, huh? Oh, one more thing, QS motor oil, and Pennzoil, too, are now products of SOPUS (Shell Oil Petroleum, U.S.) Both are fully formulated motor oils meeting current API "SM" and ILSAC "GF-4" specifications and easily the equal or better of Mobil Clean 5000 or Exxon Superflow in 5W-20 viscosity. Golly, why did I mention Mobil and Exxon? If you check the backside of Honda motor oil bottles, it states plainly, "Produced by ExxonMobil Corporation" (But, at least it costs more through the take-yer-money-ships' parts departments, so it must be the best conventional motor oil available, right?
Take out the hose along with the PCV.
Thanks for the reply but not exactly.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2005&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=PROTECTOR
These are attached with clips, and it seems like there is a trick to removing the clips after you pry the old protector piece. I just do not want to experiment because I do not want to scratch the paint.
That would take into account any driving conditions and adjust the mileage where the indicator lights up as needed.
For the simple reason these are cars that have most likely had the livin' snot* run out of 'em with minimal maintenance. All the rental agencies and leasees really need to care about is, a) having the "normal service" maintenance performed (for leasees, more often than not "free" through the dealerships of high-end rides), and, more importantly, b) maintaining a pristine exterior and interior. The rental agency or leasing dealership knows that if the car looks great inside and outside, will start and run without obviously alarming noise(s), and has service records (even if only of minimal service), the cash-flush or well-credited unwary will snap up a road-hungry Mercedes or BMW without question just to get the roundel or three-pointed star on the hood. On the BITOG site, someone posted pictures of a beautifully maintained five year old Mercedes S500's engine at tear-down that had just come off of lease with only 20,000 miles on it - full service history and so on. The engine seized up three weeks after the hapless buyer drove it home. The engine was completely varnished and sludged internally - Mercedes infamous "FSS" oil life monitor system, concocted by Mercedes justly famous engineers who "know their cars best", had allowed ONE oil change during that 20,000 miles at the 18,000 mile mark. Even if the dealership had used conventional oil, that engine still wouldn't have tanked in just 2,000 miles. That damage occurred during the first 18,000 miles with the $9.00/quart synthetic oil Mercedes used as factory fill. The factory-fill oil had simply been overdriven for the useage patterns that motor had been exposed to. Cost of the discounted replacement motor and labor? $15,000.00 after Mercedes North America agreed to pick up part of the tab on a post-warranty vehicle.
(Mercedes abandoned the "FSS" oil life monitoring system with model year 2004 and later. Required oil and oil filter service is set to 13,000 mile intervals or 1 yr., whichever comes first, now, using only Mercedes special synthetic oil and a polyester "fleece" oil filter.)
*This can be low speed urban crawl in hot or very cold weather as easily as wide-open throttle operation on interstates. (The latter is probably the least stressful, in fact, because the motor is fully warmed and operating closest to the ideal 14.7:1 stoichiometric air to fuel mixture. In urban crawl, the motor is running on the rich side at idle, and more so every time the vehicle must acclerate from a dead stop - compounded motor oil fuel dilution, just the ticket for varnish and sludge formation.) I'm not trying to rain on anybody's parade, blane, not even yours. I'm trying to interject a little common sense that may save an owner of my favorite marque from some grievous expense and frustration. Hope to own another Accord in two or three years after my stint with my current '03 Hyundai Sonata. (My '96 Accord was hands-down the BEST car I ever owned - never a problem over seven years. It was bullet-proof - too bad it also wasn't owner-proof...)
The car handled great on both trips. The engine was quiet and smooth running. Handled the mountains in Tenn. with ease. The ride was comfortable but I would agree with some of the posters that the seats could be a little more comfortable. One of the things I have noticed is that when driving at about 35 mph and the rpm's at 1500 it seems a little sluggish. I figure that is the case when you mate a 4 cyl. to a 5AT. I've taken to just dropping it down a gear. I mentioned this to my brother who has a new Toyota Avalon with 260+ hp 6 cyl. with 5AT and he said his seems to do the same thing. He thought his was hunting for the right gear.
Now I understand all the complaining about the ivory interior. It shows everything and my wife and I are pretty neat people with no kids. Fortunately, this is a two year lease. I won't opt for that interior again even its' the only one offered with the White ext. My other minor compaint is the speakers. My wife's 03' CR-V's stereo actually sounds better to me than the Accord's. I'm going to change out just the front door speakers to Sony 3-ways and check the improvement.
All in all I'm very happy with the car. I think the LX SE is an excellent value. I'm still longing for the Civic EX coupe but will revisit that when my lease runs out.
and the SRS light came on a few weeks ago
Its the red light and it stays on(the first few times it
went on and off but now it stays on)
Can someone please tell me what it might mean
and if it will cause any other problems if I keep driving
it
I appreciate it. Thank You.
Its the red light and it stays on(the first few times it
went on and off but now it stays on)
That means the computer sees a problem with your airbags. Get it into the dealer ASAP.
I took it to the friendly people at Carr's Honda in Chicago, they have a body shop there. Their tech came out with the putty knife and pulled the piece off as he was working his way with the putty knife. No scratches whatsoever. The old clips came out with the piece so nothing fell into the door compartment. Then went the new piece in. Took 10 minutes max.
anything under the hood! I dont have $ now but I'll get it looked at in the future
I just moved to NY and dont know any mechanics and I know the dealership
here is outrageous I went there to get an oil change and when they told me
how much I went down the street to Jiffy
Thanks for the info, I'm a woman and u know we are excellent drivers
so I'll be fine
ramida
Sentencial logic is always fascinating...
If changing your oil every 3000 miles & 3 months, instead of the recommended 10,000 miles; is a great deal and really good for your car...Then changing it every 300 miles will be even better, and then why not change it nightly and your car will last forever.
Now as to the changing it every three months; it is kind of like milk, in that it goes bad with time and even has a shelf life. So you should really shop for the freshest you can find.
"All virtues in moderation"
-Socrates
While you obviously have plenty of money and time to waste, the majority of car owners don't. The 3,000-mile oil change interval is both a scam and a crap, designed to sustain and fatten the pockets of dealers and quick-lube shops. It's no high-quality maintenance.
ramida
Just to be on the safe side.
I will never understand some people in this forum. They all sound like that Gregory fellow who used to post here. I think he's still here under a different name though.
FOLKS...FOLLOW YOUR OWNERS MANUAL!
The Sandman :confuse: