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Comments
So my oil changes don't match the book's recommendation. BTW, what are the recommended change interval for the Accords in Japan? Aren't they much shorter than in US? I believe I've read that earlier in these groups. I wonder why they would extend them in US? I'll keep changing my oil based on looks and an anecdotal test I do, even if someone ridicules me for doing so.
Best regards--Keith
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Also consider that manufactures are now promoting items such as low cost of ownership (which includes oil changes) in the marketing of new vehicles - fewer oil changes = lower maint costs.
My experience is that you can get away with 7500-10k intervals if you plan on keeping your car 100k miles or less. However, most owners who limit mileage between oil changes to 5k or less have much greater success and fewer issues if they intend on keeping their vehicle 150k plus - It only adds about 1 oil change per year. I personally use a 5k interval while many of the area dealerships recommend 3,750 miles.
The last comment I will make is to address people like avianflu. Refering to the people/humans working on your vehicle as "monkeys" is disgraceful. You were sure to inform everyone of what you do for a living - does that make you better? I agree many car dealerships deserve the negative repuation they have. I have been frustrated at the lack of professionalism and dishonesty I seen. There are however many honest, professional people who trully want to serve you. Give them a chance!
If people find their oil is looking bad by 3000 and they don't like the looks at 5000, why shouldn't they have it changed?
Best Regards--Keith
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
With imported oil at $60 to $70 per barrel, I believe that we shouldn't be wasting it on frivoulously frequent oil changes. Studies have revealed that about half of the oil removed from engines ends up NOT being recycled. It ends up in sewers and landfills.
Following the engine manufacturer's maintenance schedules will provide excellent vehicle service.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
FWIW, I always used to go with about 3k/4 months (just to be anal). On our 2005 Odyssey, with the oil life monitor, it has hit the change level (15% IIRC) at about 5K and 10K (5 and 10 months also). So, that is when I changed it.
My new Accord ('05) doesn't have the oil life minder, but I won't go past 5K or 6 months, whichever comes first. i also don't do the long trips with this car that the van gets, so it is harder on the oil.
So, I will probably do my first change at about 5-6 months, depending on how many miles I put on it. I certainly qualify for the severe use schedule, and no way I would try to stretch it to 10K (over 1 year), especailly for the first change.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I'd feel great if i can get this done, not to mention about the huge bucks i'd save :-)
In any case, I think it is usually in the housing at the top of the radiator hose (on the engine side of course).
Side advice, if you are taking the hose off to repalce the thermostat, might as well throw on new hoses. I assume they aren't too expensive, and the labor will be the same, so might be some peace of mind not having 10 YO hoses.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I have done other repairs on my car and I am considering attempting this on my own.
Especially when my dealer want $500 installed.
I have looked at my Honda service manual and it seems straight forward.
Basically:
Drain coolant.
Remove all hoses connected to radiator.
Remove all fan harnesses.
Remove radiator mounts.
Remove radiator with fans attached.
Remove fans from radiator and install on new radiator.
Install in reverse order.
* Can anyone recommend an aftermarket radiator that installed easily into a 94-97 Accord?
* To anyone who has done this type of repair and run into any type of complications, any additional tips would be helpfull.
* One thing I would like to do is find a way to keep the transmission fluid from leaking out of the hose once I remove it from the radiator. I also plan to protect the fins with a piece of cardboard when installing the new radiator.
But given the facts: 1)I keep my cars for the life of the car (barring some unforseen circumstances), 2)I drive in the same manner and basically in the same conditions for the life of the car, and 3) The maintenance schedule as an general reference document for the masses (North America per se) is not tailored to my specific vehicle usage I see no better way to figure out oil change interval than by getting an oil analysis done and using the hard evidence to create a specialized service schedule (for oil anyway).
I'm not pointing the finger at anyone because we all are in different positions. Some people will trade in their car every few years, or will keep it only till the end of the warranties, or are just not that concerned with splitting hairs over an engine that seems to take almost anything you can throw at it. If I were one of these people I would just go by the book too.
On the other hand, since you can sample your oil every year or two with relative ease and low expenditure, send it in, and then receive quantitative data that will not only help you construct a nearly perfect oil/filter change schedule (taking into account both driving style and changing engine condition, ie parts breakdown etc) but will also give you valuable engine health data I really don't see why the owners who are "lifers" don't just disregard it all and do it themselves (as I do). It seems to me a method this tailored and informative would help to extract the absolute best in lubrication performance/value.
Then again, it's late and I may have missed something in that longwinded paragraph. What say you?
a) The car seems needs some extra push to get going, especially in low gears. I have to push the gas pedal harder than most cars I've driven. Since this is my first Accord, i don't know if this is normal. Note that this problem is only obvious in lower gears. Once on the highway, it's pretty responsive. I've also noticed that if I stop at a stop sign or red light, the gear seems to downshift quickly back to 'zero gear' -- that is, the car seems to have no power/desire to move forward and i need to push the gas pedal hard to get it going. I know that Honda has a recall on the transmission, but I don't know if my issues fits the description for the recall.
b) The car doesn't start right away when I turns the ignition for first time in the morning. I can hear a few more cranks before it starts. I assume that this isn't a big deal. But I've haven't had this problem in other cars I've had. Does this mean that the spark plug has worn out or I have a starter problem? Note that this only happens the first time you start the car in the morning.
c) The light for the clock went off, so I can't see the clock at night. How much does it take to fix it?
d) I'm getting about 27mpg on 85% highway driving, is that normal? I was hoping for better, as my old 99 camry can get about 30...
thanks.
Also, what is the mileage on the car? It is old enough that it could be due for a tune up. In any case, having a once over done by a mechanic doesn't sound like a bad idea, plus maybe you can find another one of the same vintage to drive for comparison.
Hard to really comment on the items you mention, since they could be totally subjective, and I have never driven an AT Accord.
I do know that the clock light issue is fairly common, and there may be a TSB out on it. Also try the Accord problems thread, since I think it was discussed over there.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
But thanks for the info on clock light, i'll check it out.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I may also try changing the filter at 2500 when I plan to drive further and see if the new filter cleans up the oil where the previous filter had partially clogged and was bypassing more than when new.
Others are very free to do as they please and I do not criticize their choice.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
From collegehillshonda.com
General
NEVER Play CDs with Adhesive Labels
By American Honda Motor Company / College Hills Honda
Thu, 7 Apr 2005, 15:30:00
Do you like burning music on your home computer or audio recorder for use in your car? If you do you may want to take special care and avoid using adhesive labels for marking your CDs. Honda audio units are built with some very tight clearances compared to aftermarket CD players. CDs with adhesive labels should never be played in your Honda vehicle as the labels can curl up and jam the unit resulting in expensive repairs.
Mark your burned CDs using a permanent marker or a specialized CD printer instead. Adhesive labels should never be used, no matter what type.
Mrbill
General
Aftermarket Leather and Side Airbags Don't Mix
By College Hills Honda
Sat, 26 Feb 2005, 13:59:00
Are you planning on installing aftermarket leather in your Honda that has standard side airbags? You may want to read this warning that was supplied to dealers from American Honda Motor Company.
"Never install aftermarket leather seat covers on Honda vehicles with side airbags. Here’s why:
• The occupant position detection system (OPDS) sensors attached to the seat-back foam are calibrated to sense through the seat cover. If the cover material changes, the OPDS could malfunction or turn on the SRS indicator.
• Side airbags that deploy through the seat bolster seam are sewn with a special thread that bursts and positions the side airbag to protect the occupant. This thread isn’t available to the aftermarket, which means you must replace the seat cover whenever a side airbag deploys or a seat cover is damaged.
• Side airbags that deploy through a plastic lid still have OPDS sensors that are calibrated to match the seat cover material."
Mrbill
2003-2005 Accord Low Fuel Indicator
By College Hills Honda
Sat, 8 Jan 2005, 14:10:00
On 2003-2005 Accords the low fuel indicator is designed to come on when the gauge reads just under a 1/4 tank and when there is approximately 3-4 gallons of fuel left.
Mrbill
Accord
2003-2005 Honda Accord Keyless Entry Programming
By College Hills Honda Parts
Thu, 26 Aug 2004, 19:50:00
NOTES:
• The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
• Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must
reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode.
• You must complete steps 1–6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode.
Programming the Transmitter
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the “Lock” or “Unlock” button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the “Lock” or “Unlock” button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the “Lock” or “Unlock” button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the
transmitter’s code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the
programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
You may order direct from College Hills Honda. Simply call 1-888-244-6632 and ask for Internet Parts.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
The last one,
Mrbill
So the sensor is actually using the darkening of the oil as its measure of life of the oil?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
No, it doesn't.
The car also does not do a chemical analysis of the oil.
The 'computer' keeps track of starts, temperature the coolant hits, lenght of time running, rpm, speed, time in gears, etc. From all this info, it calculates how the oil has been 'used'.
Does anyone have any idea why this went on? The car was running fine, with the engine light on. I've had ZERO problems with this car, which I've had for over 5 years.
Any ideas what this could be or potential cost estimates would be appreciated. Thanks!
Cost depends on the part(s) needed. A common reason is a bad O2 sensor, but I have no idea what one of them costs on an Accord.
Good news is, since you were smart enough to get a stick shift, it isn't because your auto tranny crapped out!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I'd tend to agree with bolivar, since your car analyzes other conditions in much the same manner. Taking aggregate data to best estimate a few specific things.
One more thing. I wasn't suggesting that what other people are doing for oil change intervals are wrong, just that I think using the analysis yields invaluable engine data and let's you set a very accurate schedule yourself. And $50 per analysis, yikes, that's steep! I don't pay anywhere near that.
happy motoring all
Hey, that is gotta be more accurate that a "one size fits all" mileage figure in the owners manual.
FWIW, we have an '05 Odyssey that sees a lot of local use (on/off, short trips not warmed up fully, etc), sombined with some long high-speed trips. basically tough on the oil usage. The first 2 oil changes, per the monitor, were at just about 5 and 10K (also happend to be about 5 and 10 months).
So, based on that, 5K on an Accord seems about right. No way I would go longer than that if it was pushing 6 months. Of course, if you drive 100 miles a day all highway in a nice climate, you might be able to stretch it.
On my Accord, it will probably end up doing changes at 4K (I have a 2005, no monitor), since that will be about 6 months.
There is also no need for an analysis each time you change the oil, but might not be a bad idea at your next change to see if your intervals seem right (that is, if the oil is like new, you are changing too soon, and if it is shot, waiting too long).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
The CEL on our 1999 5-sp Accord came on several years ago and we haven't done anything except put a piece of black tape over it. The car still runs fine and passes our Virginia emissions inspection.
Jen :confuse:
Whatever you buy, it is critical that the covers do not interfere with the emergency deployment of the side airbags that pop out of the edges of the seatbacks.
http://www.gtcovers.com/
(Studies by Consumer Reports have also shown an alramingly high percentage of motorists are blithely going with the "normal" service recommendation when their driving habits and climates really dictate the shorter "severe" service intervals.)
It is not the same engine. Honda designed the engine to be able to handle the intervals they set. Honda has even recently extended their powertrain warrantys up from the old mileage limit of 36,000 miles.
They are not so stupid as you make them out to be make oil change recommendations based on what marketing department people tell them to do.
There are NO secrets in the automotive industry and every manufacturer miscalculates from time-to-time. Yeah, even Honda, though I hasten to point out that whether these recommended 10,000 mile oil changes turn out to be problematic for Honda's 2003 and 2004 models remains to be seen. Having gone to a service light in 2005 may be a sign that Honda's hedging its bets. Honda builds very good engines. I NEVER maligned Honda as "stupid", so I resent your attributing that assessment to me. (You're skating on VERY thin ice by personalizing this discussion.) As to Honda's oil service intervals, Honda Accords sold in the rest of its world markets neither share the U.S. 10,000 mile interval nor the 5W-20 oil viscosity recommendation. No one outside the company can say with any certainty that 10,000 mile oil change intervals in the U.S. were not a marketing decision by Honda, rather than an engineering decision as so many poster have assumed. Good as they are, Honda's engines are not eternally bullet proof, though. They can be and are destroyed by improper operation and servicing. Nor were Toyota's engines fundementally "defective" as you incorrectly claimed in your post. The successful "fix" at the manufacturing level, such as it was, merely involved Toyota enlarging the oil return passages to prevent pooling and resultant "coking" in the hot cylinder head(s). Isn't it odd that Toyota Camrys, which consistently outsell Honda Accords, have surprisingly fewer owner complaints on the Edmunds Camry discussionss? Personally, I prefer the Accord, and an Accord will probably be my next ride in several years. But aren't the Camry's continuing higher sales and lower owner complaint statistics at least interesting? Despite past problems?