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Comments
In Mid west you can get atleast $1000-1500 more on 98+ EX V6 than prob'ly the rest of the market.
Sadly we are not close enough!
CarMax is owned by Circuit City, and a location in a large city usually sells 600-700 cars a month. They do tremendous volume and can usually offer top dollar on trade-ins.
Good luck!
Anybody holding stock in this company?. If so, don't sell!.
As for retail pricing, none of the products you mention, with the exception of the MDX/Pilot, will continue to move at MSRP for much longer. Production is finally starting to catch up with demand on the Odyssey - six months from now, you may actually find vans on dealer lots and offers to sell at discount. As for the new Accord, as usual, the people who have to have one during the first six weeks will pay for the privilege; anyone who can wait a couple of months will get the usual deals. Our '98 Accord LX sedan was a $500-over-invoice deal less than 4 months after the car was introduced.
As the new Alabama plant gets seriously rolling, supply and demand should get more in balance even for the hottest items in the line. That process could take up to a year or more, though, for the new SUVs [MDX/Pilot], which are such bulls-eyes for the North American market.
thanks
We have found that our members really appreciate the fact that we do not allow car salesfolks to push their products on our members. By that same token, we can't allow our members to use us for selling things to each other, either.
I appreciate your understanding.
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board
The 30K will probably run close to $300 but you just sank maybe $7-8K to buy it. Might as well maintain it right. With luck and proper maintenance, it'll last him right through college if that's the plan.
Good Luck.
When was in sales, people used to ask me about the prices and I would tell them that even if you think it's too high you won't have to worry about the next guy coming in and getting a better deal than you since we don't haggle. If you feel you are getting ripped off there are probably several other cars in the system that are priced at the same point so no one is getting any better or worse deal than you are.
But of course you can't please everyone.
To be truthful, I don't drive many other automatics so I really can't compare. Auburn who posts here is a Honda tech and might be able to assist you. Then again, maybe changing the tranny fluid will help as per the 30K service. :-)
In my opinion these harsh/hard & fast shifts were typical Honda efficiency/effectiveness efforts which Honda was adamnet about untill 98 Accord. They made it smoother due to popular public demand & to increase their sales to possible smooth shift seekers. Accord/Civic suspensions have also got smoother by every generation in order to make the product appealing to more customer base.
Within a month or two you will get used to these hard shifts in pre 98 Accords. It is just that when you shift to Honda you feel it more.
Anyways, thanks for the Carmax idea and others.
If anyone has any additional selling info just drop me an email.
Sorry if I caused a problem.
I bought a new Accord LXV6 last year and am pretty happy with the car so far.
Last night, when going through my owner's manual, I noticed that it said if the battery power gets disconnected, the audio system will not play until a 5 digit code is punched in. Apparently I should have been given an information card which gave me this code, along with the serial number of the audio unit, when I took delivery of the car.
However, since I was not given this code, I am wondering whether anybody else had this problem. The manual advises that to get the code from the dealer I need the serial number of the unit. Can anybody tell me where to look for this number? I hope I do not have to dismantle the unit to get this number.
Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
S. Ghosh
To me this says that my tranmission fluid is up for a change. However, I just had my 30,000 service done and supposedly they changed the tranmission fluid. My guess is that the dealership skipped on this, and didn't actually change it. Anyone have any suggestions on a quick way to verify if they really did change it? Also, I'm assuming there is a filter they needed to replace? Thanks in advance...
Another option: since you need to replace the car, take it to the Honda dealer and see if you can trade it for another car. Of course oyu will have another loan but who knows. many dealers will be willing to work with you.
Just a thought.
I guess I have to take up this issue with the sales manager or with Honda's customer relations dept. I hope I find the number in the glove compartment, though!
I remember some additional 'stickers' containing the serial number supplied as well. Check the owner's manual or the envelope you got the booklets in.
Good luck.
Look for a 5 digit number.
They didn't have to take the radio out to write it down for me, so this means the dealership has the number. At least, they have it at the time of sale. Don't do a $82 ripoff payment.
Either my dealer didn't know or forgot to take the sticker out of the glove box.
I was giving a plastic card with the 5 digits code for my stereo when I bought my 2001 Accord. While I was poking around in my new car (like all new owners does) I found a second sticker with the same code stuck to the wall of the glove box.
So much for anti-theft.
Traded a `93 Maxima GXE on the Accord, and am beginning to miss the max! The shift quality didn't seem too bad on the test drive, but after living with it for a week and a half, I'm beginning to be a little annoyed by the accord's shift programming. It holds a gear too long when you're not intending too, and the shift quality still leaves a little to be desired IMHO. It seems like full and low throttle acceleration is handled very well, but "medium" throttle settings aren't. The accord tranny is more willing to downshift and be responsive than the maxima, but it does this many times when I wouldn't expect or want it to. I'm hoping it's something I just get used to...
Anyway, overall I do like the accord, and believe it will be more reliable over the long haul than the Maxima (though the maxima was no slouch).
good luck postoak!
To make a long story short, the radio needed a code when I got the car back. I went to my dealership and found out that there was a sticker with the code on it on one of my trunk hinges.
So I guess that was the dealer, and not a Honda "standard"?
Regards.
If that doesn't, taking out the radio yourself isn't too bad. Give it a try.
So the moral is Invoice does not equal Cost, so they still have plenty of room to make money, even selling below invoice.
You can find this info out in other areas of Edmunds website : www.edmunds.com/advice/incentives/holdback/index.html
I was surprised at how easy it was to get them to cave to sell under invoice - made me think I might have gotten a better deal if I pushed even harder. However, Honda lacks any of the rebate or financing tools that the domestics have right now, so they can only compete by lowering their price (and relying on an outstanding reliability reputation).
The invoice on our Accord was $23,205. We paid 23,105.
BTW, my ID was created in `99 when I was rather po'd about the `96 windstar. I was actually considering a Taurus against the Accord because it was such a good deal. Could have gotten it for $900 under invoice because there's a $1000 rebate right now ($100 over invoice minus the rebate). Equipped the same as the Accord EX-V6, it was $2500 cheaper. I figure I'll save that much in repairs before 100k miles easy since I bought the Honda...
Plus, it's just built better!
Doug
I have been quoted prices ranging from $1000 to $1800.
Thanks.
* Honda transmissions are programmed to shift more often than Toyota, GM or Nissan transmissions.
* 1-2 (and sometimes, 2-3) may be a little more pronounced when the car has few miles, plus it would do so after cold starts (user manual mentions that).
* The transmission will be much smoother as you add miles to the car. Mine was noticeably smoother after about 7500 miles (the first scheduled maintenance). Now, with 64K miles, and warmed up, it is buttery smooth.
I switched from Toyota Camry to Honda Accord, so it was a change for me too. And incidently, I'm also driving a friend's Camry that he has left with me while he is gone for a long vacation. That transmission shifts too early (~2000 rpm) to second during normal driving, compared to my Accord which happens to hold the first gear to 3000 rpm during normal driving. Sometimes, that also causes the feel of a stiffer shift compared to if it had shifted at a very low speed.
Get on the phone and talk to the sales manager of the dealer who sold you the car...
My dad had an `88 LX-i automatic that shifted very harshly, and I was a bit surprised that after 14 years I could still notice less smooth shifts in the Honda versus my Nissan.
Oh yeah, and what's up with Honda's cruise control? May dad's `88 sucked, and my `02 isn't a whole lot better. The thing slows down way too much on the hills for my taste.
One other thing that bugs me a bit is that radiator! Smallest thing I have ever seen! Looks like it belongs in a Geo Metro 3 cylinder, not a V6 Honda. Course, when it is chilly outside, the things still warms up very quickly!
Oh well, I guess the moral is all cars have little nit-picky things that bug us all, even such great cars as the Accord. I look forward to driving the wheels off of mine.
Doug
I am now thoroughly confused! When I called HONDA customer service today, they told me that my Accord (2001 LXV6) most likely does not have a security code. It seems that nowadays only the EX and EXV6 models have this code.
Can any 2001/2002 LXV6 owners or Honda dealers (e.g. "isellhondas") amongst you confirm this for me please? I do not want to disconnect the battery and try the hard way!
Are there any other indications that show that an audio unit has a theft control code, like a flashing light on the unit, etc.?
Thanks again.
Second, radiator size??? I can assure you that the car's cooling system works fine - we live in Sacramento, CA, where summer temps routinely hit 100-110F. The cooling system is more than up to the job, and is fine even with the AC running full blast for hours at a time. Relax...
from a stopped position upon accelerating, the
automatic tranny seems to occasionally "STUTTER" or "HESITATE" before it changes gears the FIRST
time. This does not happen every time, but about
1 out of every 5 times. I have considered taking it up with the dealer. Is it serious enough to
be able to have the tranny replaced? Under what
circumstances would a Honda dealer replace an
automatic tranny under warranty?
I would appreciate any input on this....
Just for the information of any who are shopping, the offers I received went from the winning bid of $184 below invoice to about $250 over it. However, I was careful not to discuss invoice in my emails -- I just asked for "total drive out price". Otherwise, you leave yourself open to someone coming in with a low bid and then cheating you with a big doc fee.
The total dealer charges were $20,594.63 and invoice according to Edmunds is $20,779.
The only additional fees were government charges:
Sales tax
Dealer Inventory tax (never heard of it -- hope it's legit)
State Inspection
License
Title registration
I confirmed that these last 2 figures were the actual amounts charged by the County Tax Assessor Collector.
Oh, I also took one final look at Edmunds to make sure there were no dealer incentives, rebates, etc.
I'd recommend going to a Honda dealer to have them look at it. If you've kept up with all of your required maintenance, the tranny will still be under warranty. Hopefully you've saved all of your receipts, because they'll definitely want to see those if they do any warranty work for you.