Older Honda Accords

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Comments

  • tigerjon1tigerjon1 Member Posts: 26
    First of all their brakes are a joke. Their cars have always had brake problems. You would think that after years of problems they would somehow get them right.
    Secondly, they have got to be the toughest company to find out how to e-mail. If they are trying to avoid customers and the whole customer service thing, then they are doing a great job of it. I think the next time around I'll try a Camry, I beleive they are kicking Honda's **s in that class now anyways.

    TJ
  • twistinmelontwistinmelon Member Posts: 90
    There is just no way to get in touch with Honda.

    Your dealer is the first stop for questions or concerns about your vehicle. Contact your Honda dealer for information about service and maintenance, warranty repairs, Honda Genuine Parts, and more. For further assistance, feel free to contact Honda Automobile Customer Service.

    Honda Automobile Customer Service
    Honda Automobile Customer Service stands ready to answer questions and address concerns with your U.S. Honda vehicle. You may contact us several ways:

    By Phone
    Monday through Friday, 6:00am to 5:00pm Pacific Standard time at the toll-free phone number (800) 999-1009

    By Fax
    (310) 783-3023


    By Mail
    American Honda Motor Co., Inc.

    Honda Automobile Customer Service
    Mail Stop 500-2N-7A
    1919 Torrance Blvd.
    Torrance, CA 90501-2746

    Honda Automobile Customer Service is more than happy to help with U.S. Honda vehicle concerns, but is unable to address questions with non-U.S. products. For Canadian inquiries, please call Honda Canada Automobile Customer Service toll-free at (888) 946-6329.

    Enjoy your Camry. Oh, wait, Toyota doesn't list their e-mail address either:

    WE'VE MADE IT EASY FOR YOU TO INTERACT WITH US. Here you can request more information on our products, Toyota's operations in the United States, Toyota's commitment to the environment or an annual report.

    » Find direct answers to your questions by visiting our FAQ page.

    » Find your nearest dealer using the Dealer Locator or by dialing 1-800-GO-TOYOTA.

    Ah, well, I guess the **s kicking will have to take place by phone or snail mail.

    twist
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    Some customers aren't worth the hassle.
  • jjpcatjjpcat Member Posts: 124
    What's wrong with the brake? Which model/year did you have? I have always been complaining about Honda's brake. But it doesn't seem many people care about it. Or maybe they are just not aware of the problem.
  • robertsmxrobertsmx Member Posts: 5,525
    has brake problems, and I don't know it yet at about 66K miles.
    tigerjon1, what have I been missing?
  • hbund216hbund216 Member Posts: 162
    Yeah it sucks. Calling customer service is a pain and they are of no help. With other makes catching up in quality and refinement Honda needs offer something other than good engines. I'll still hang on to their stock since people think they are the best in the business. But I've had thoughts of dumping it lately.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    There is a $500 manufacturer-to-dealer cashback until April 1, 02. So this may be a good time to squeeze a little bigger discount from your friendly neighborhood Honda dealer. For '02 Accords, there is only a 6% spread between invoice and MSRP for Accords, so $500 is significant.

    On a slightly different topic, the couple of salesmen that I've spoken to in the last week swear on their mothers' graves that they are only knocking off a few hundred dollars (less than $1,000 anyway) on Accords. Can that be true, even for the Canadian market? I mean, the Accord is a lame duck. There are re-styled Camrys and Altimas, and a new Accord is due in a few months. And these clowns are still maintaining that prices are tight?!! Any recent Accord buyers in Canada who may share their buying experience?
  • bigzheng17bigzheng17 Member Posts: 81
    i want to buy a EX V6 accord, but i really don't want all the dealer installed money-making stuff. if i want to order one with no optional equipment, would the dealer do that? does it cost anything extra? how long does it usually take?
    for a silver EX V6, what's the average price you have paid?

    tbanks!
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    Usually you'd just have to find one with no dealer-installed option. Or, depending on how badly the dealer wants to sell the car, you can always demand that the options be removed.
  • is300tm7is300tm7 Member Posts: 20
    anyone having problem with back of passenger side front seat falling apart?

    p.s. yes brake sucks
  • moses13moses13 Member Posts: 9
    i'm in fairfield county, ct, usa
    in jan i bought an ex v6 sedan for 23,300
    the only options it included were wheel locks, wind deflector for the moon roof, mud guards, and a trunk tray to protect the carpeting in there
    i didn't pay anything extra and this price still beat 2 other quotes from area dealers
    w/ a new design on the way i bet the longer you wait the better you can do price wise as long as they have the model you want in stock
    after a lot of research i think this is the best value in the mid size under 30k car market
    good luck and happy hunting
  • fredvhfredvh Member Posts: 857
    You said that the Accord was the "best value" in the mid-size under 30K market. How does the Accord compare to the 2002 Camry? Did you try out the Acura 3.2 TL? It runs about 29,500. I would be interested in your views.
  • baboonusbaboonus Member Posts: 4
    I've recently bought a brand new Accord SE v6 (MSRP 28300) and I paid 26 000 + taxes, freight and pdi, and no admin fee. It was brand new (less than 4km with the plastic still on it) and not a demo.

    I didn't let them lowball me on my trade in and I didn't put up with any bogus fees (admin) and add ons (rustproofing, extended warranty, etc.).

    Now that I think about it, I could have done better but I've could have done alot worse. I bought it in Ottawa ON.

    Hope this info helps.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    Is kinda vague. I've never noticed a problem with the brake in my 15-plus Hondas. What exactly is the problem with the brakes?
  • soberssobers Member Posts: 496
    all discs on EX 4 cyl & all V6 models. Even Odyssesy had a long stopping distances until MY2002 Now it has all discs.

    But I would rate Honda brake-modulation & feedback very close to that of BMW. Just try out ANY Toyota product(except Celica). They all have very mushy & a certain non-linearity with them. Specially on Camry/Corolla the brakes offer almost no modulation.
  • carguy62carguy62 Member Posts: 545
    When Car and Driver Mag did a recent comparison of family sedans, the '02 Accord came out on top.

    Beat the new Camry, beat the new Altima. Taurus and one or two more were also included.

    It didn't win by a lot and if I recall may not have finished first in every category but all in all not too bad for an older design competing with new models.

    The TL is a different class than the Accord IMO and it really isn't fair to compare the two (but plenty of people do).
  • moses13moses13 Member Posts: 9
    my personal opinion per your request
    acura had a few more bells & whistles than the honda but 1 didn't really care for the way it looks and i didn't think the extras justified the cost, my father is on his his second tl and loves it but i thought the older models looked nicer
    as for the camry while i liked the new restyle i had a few problems w/ toyota
    1 the ride was a little too "mushy" for me
    2 the salesmen at the 2 dealerships i visited were so arrogant that i was immediately turned off
    3 the way toyota packages their options also annoyed me, it made it difficult to get what you want without having to ante up for what you don't

    please don't get me wrong, i think toyota makes great cars but i personally just have aproblem w/ the way they sell them
    additionally to get a camry w/ the features on my accord would approach the cost of the acura which i would buy in a heartbeat over the camry
    this is my 2nd honda and my experience has been absolutely terrific
    when i bought the accord i had narrowed my choices down to the accord or a passat and the accord won , basically for cost and reliability reasons
    if i had an extra 10k to spend i probably would have looked at audi or bmw5
    hope i helped a bit
  • nwngnwng Member Posts: 663
    97 accord with 70k, still on original brakes, but I will be changing the pads and rotate the drums soon. Had a 91 tercel before, did the brakes at 80k mi, I think it really depends on your driving style. I drive sticks and have always use engine braking in addition to the regular brakes.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    That's a helluva deal you got. $26,000 would be less than invoice. I wonder if they had done some numbers gymastics with your trade to be able to show $26,000?
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    have their "Side Airbag" dash light come on when the weather is rainy and damp? This has been happening in my 2k accord for about a year now and I finally just dropped by the dealer while it was raining and the light was coming on. They were completely baffled but are willing to check it out(appointment necessary). Only thing is it probably won't be rainy or damp and they'll say they can't check it except when the light is on. Anybody else had this light come on when humidity high?
  • robertsmxrobertsmx Member Posts: 5,525
    Sobers
    You make some interesting comments on Honda versus Toyota brakes and they mirror my opinion as well. I have owned Toyotas, and have put thousands of miles on late model Toyotas (primarily Camry and Corolla). Their brakes seem to have a grabbing effect. Accord and Camry have very similar stopping distances, but I would take the way Accord brakes (hard) over Camry even if the Toyota has shorter stopping distance (Accord's stiffer springs and more communicative steering also help).
    I have had three Hondas (Prelude, all discs; Accord, all discs; Civic, rear drums). I have not encountered any problem with the brakes. Accord is the most driven at 66K miles now.

    bigzheng17
    Accord EXV6 is already loaded with almost everything. And it should be easy to find one with no dealer installed accessories, and yes, even if a dealer has accessories installed, you can ask them to take them off. I did. There was only one car with the color I wanted in the dealer's lot and they had chrome alloy wheels installed on it. I simply asked them to go back to the stock wheels. I also got the dealer emblem removed from the trunk. And this was when the current Accord was brand new and rare (Fall 1997).
    As for price, I'm sure you can find one at invoice. To get a rough estimate, just divide the MSRP by 1.1, and you should be close.

    fritz1224
    My Accord didn't come with side airbags, but I have a friend who does. The dash light is supposed to warn against deactivation of the device if the occupant is less than appropriate for a side airbag (too small/light etc.) or is leaning against the door. Your problem sounds weird. Is it the driver side or the passenger side? Could it be that the seat belt is touching one of the sensors?
  • bigzheng17bigzheng17 Member Posts: 81
    i am contacting honda dealer now, see what their price is.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    It is weird! I know what the purpose of the light is supposed to be, but none of those situations apply. No one is in either of the seats and the belt isn't touching the sensor. It has to be related to the high humidity of wet weather. That's the only time it comes on.
    Auburn, have you ever seen anything similar to my circumstance?
  • baboonisbaboonis Member Posts: 4
    I was looking at other cars (i.e. Lexus, Infiniti, Acura, even BMW), they all offered me 11 000 - 12 500) for my trade in. I checked the Black book value and 12 700 was the max. I could get for my trade in. I'm pretty good with numbers and am sure the trade in numbers were correct.

    How are you basing what the Canadian invoice price is? Did you get the price through some accredited sources?
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    I got the invoice info from Carcostcanada.com
    Pre-freight, PDI, air tax, the MSRP is $28,300 and dealer's cost is $26,602. There is a $500 cashback to dealers until April 1, so you could say the dealer's cost is effectively $26,102 up until April 1. So if you got yours for $26K, that's an unbelievable deal since most dealers in Canada need to see about 2 - 3% profit per transaction. There's a lot of reports of people getting Accords at invoice or close to invoice down in the States, but I think the car biz is a different game down there.

    BTW, what car did you trade in? Did you have a rough idea how much you could have gotten if you sold it privately?
  • baboonisbaboonis Member Posts: 4
    When I bought the car, i got the impression that I bought my car 200 - 500 above invoice. I've bought from the same dealer for my 99 Civic LX-G (the trade in) and the manager at the time told me that how they determine their lowest price is always invoice + 500.
    I got 12 500 for my Civic (auto, air, ABS, 66 Km) which is a good price. I didn't bother selling it privately cause:
    1) when you trade it in, you only pay GST,PST on the difference. (26 000 - 12 500) so effectively, I'd have to get 12 500 (1.15) = 14 375 for my Civic.
    2) nobody would pay 14 375 for a 99 Civic plus PST. Even the retail price from the dealer is only 13 999.
    3)It's a hassle selling it privately. Safety check, mechanics, deadbeats, etc.

    If you live in the southern Ontario region, I don't think this "deal" is hard to get. I dunno about other parts of Canada. I hear it's a different ball game in BC.
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    Even though I am a very strong fan of Toyota, I must say unequivocally that the brakes on my first car, a 94 Civic offered better feel than on the Toyotas we have now. Too bad the fronts locked in any type of wetness.
    Still loved that car....
    ahh, High School memories.
    ~alpha
  • accord_owner01accord_owner01 Member Posts: 3
    I first posted on this message board a few weeks back about my automatic transmission problems I was having.

    I brought my car in to be checked. The service manager told me Honda is aware of this problem and have been working to have it resolved since '98. It is a problem with the subcontractor who makes the transmission and Honda is po'd. He went on tell me they get about 1 in a few hundred back in the shop for this same problem. They contacted Honda about my situation and they were told to do a battery of test, which they did. After they finished, they called Honda back and told them they couldn't solve the problem. The Honda rep told them, they would have to replace the whole transmission. No parts would be replaced, but a brand new transmission would be installed. Honda has a policy of not replacing just some parts to try and make it right. They get it done right the first time, if there is a problem. The service manager told me when I first brought it in. "This isn't Ford or Chevy. This is Honda and they will get it fixed. They do not want the reputation as a car company as being disloyal to their owners". Isn't that refreshing?

    All I can say is. Honda has made me a believer all away around. I am just glad to get it fixed. I understand there are problems that can come with any type of car, or piece of machinery. But when something is the fault of the manufacturer. It is refreshing to know they back their product 150% and don't give you the run around B.S.

    BUY HONDA AND SUPPORT A CAR COMPANY WHO KNOWS HOW TO DEAL WITH THEIR PROBLEMS THE RIGHT WAY.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    The Ontario market, by virtual of the simple fact there are more dealers, I would say is more of a buyers' market so it's conceivable that a dealer would take less profit. But I wouldn't think there would be much of a difference in the basic pricing structure across Canada.

    We in fact just pulled the trigger on a trade today. We traded in a '97 CR-V for an '02 Accord SE-V6 (same model as yours). From looking at the classified ads I figured I could get $17,500 give or take a couple of hundred on a private sale. First dealer I went to quoted me $13,500 - $14,500 for my car on a trade. So, with the savings on PST, GST, I thought that was within spitting distance to a private sale. So today we went to a dealer (and salesperson) that our family had purchased from previously. Using a trade value of $14,850 (which would be equivalent to a private sale of $17,000 which is acceptable to me) I offered to pay a difference of $13,000 + taxes (only). If you strip away the PDI, freight, air tax, doc fee, tire levy, etc., I estimated I paid a base price of approx. $26,700 which meant a profit of about $600+/- for the dealer which I thought was fair. I may not have gotten the absolute best deal but the whole process took less than an hour so that's worth something. And with a trade both parties are rolling the dice 'cause there are many variables. I may get more on a private sale, but I may get less. Then there are ad costs and the time and hassle of showing the car. I figure if the dealer ends up making money on the used car, then all the more power to him. That's what he's in business for.
  • subzero206subzero206 Member Posts: 111
    seattle area brand new accords are selling for invoice or a couple hundred below invoice.
  • jjpcatjjpcat Member Posts: 124
    My first Honda, 89 Accord DX, still had the original brake pads when I sold it at 71k miles. Since then, none of my cars has been able to reach 50k miles. So I can't say how long they will last.

    However, I think Honda has very weak brake. I have had 1 Camry V6 and 2 Lexus. Their braking power beats Honda (at least for 2 Accord and 1 Civic I have had) by a huge margin. People may say I am comparing orange to apple since all Toyota/Lexus have 4-wheel disc brake while all 3 Honda have drum in the back. But I rent/borrow 2 Corolla (93 and 96) and 2 Sentra (both 96). All these 4 cars gave me more braking power than Honda I had.

    Actually, there is an interesting story. After my 95 Camry was stolen in 96, I rent a Corolla and a Sentra each for a week when I was buying a new car. I was getting so used to the braking power they provided that when I was test driving a 96 Accord LX, I almost got into an accident. The car failed to stop in time at the end of highway off-ramp. It ran into the cross traffic and scared the heck out of me and the dealer sitting besides me. I tried another Accord LX and had the same feeling. Then I thought I could adjust myself since my 89 Accord also had weak brake. I bought the car. But that was a big mistake. The car eventually ended itself under a minivan.

    As I mentioned above, I had always like the braking power from Toyota. But when I test drove a 2001 Corolla last year, I was extremely upset. It was so mushy and badly modulated. I bought my current Civic instead.

    There are quite a few tests which show Honda's weak brake. I remember Edmunds had a comparision test in 2000. Civic was dead last in brake among 9 economy cars. You could also check www.carpoint.com and look under the "Specs & Stats" under each car. Civic again was the dead last in its group. Accord could beat only Taurus in its own group.
  • carguy62carguy62 Member Posts: 545
    Rear brakes lasted to ~120K miles before changing and even then they could have easily gone 20K more miles. I think I was on my fourth set of front pads when the cars life ended at ~155K miles. Original rotors.

    Why did my brakes last so long and not need major repairs? Well I think it is because I had a friend do all the work. If I had brought it into the dealer or Midas or whoever I no doubt would have "needed" new rotors, calipers, etc.
  • pj23pj23 Member Posts: 158
    Glad to hear that your problem has been (or will be) resolved well. There are plenty of unscrupulous dealers out there, but when you get an honest and up-front one, that takes the time to talk to Honda about the problem, the result will be a good one.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    Sound more like a problem with the driver than the brakes. In my experience I find that whenever I change cars I drive very conservatively until I find out the nuances it may have. If you nearly hit someone it speaks more of your personality and driving skill (or lack thereof) than the brakes.
  • p_g_00p_g_00 Member Posts: 34
    subzero, which dealer are you talking about? thanks.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    Just out of curiosity, how much does Honda charge for freight & PDI for you folks out East?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Usally any of the phantom side air bag light flickers are caused by the control unit needing to be re-initialized. If that doesn't cure it and no neon lights are being used in or outside the car as well as nothing is on or near the seat like a cell phone,breif case, purse, lap top ect..
    and the seat itself is dry and hasn't gotten wet then it probably needs a new OPDS(occupant position detection system) control unit and or grids in the seat.Good luck
  • googlestarsgooglestars Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone know if the new Honda Accord 2003 will have adjustable/expandable pedals options?
  • timz58timz58 Member Posts: 44
    We have a 99 EX 4 cyl Accord with about 80K miles on the odometer. I recently had the car completly serviced and the brakes checked. With 80K miles, the front brakes were still at about 40% and the rears were about 55%. Most of our driving is freeway and both my wife and I tend to watch ahead and avoid hard braking whenever possible. To my knowledge, neither of us has ever experienced the anti-lock brake noise. The brakes are positive but require a little more pedal pressure than we like but are preferable to the brakes on a 96 Camry that we had. We will be trading this car in about two more years and will probably purchase another Honda. We have had zero problems with this car but follow the manufacturer's maintenance recommendations with service. The one flaw has been an excessive amount of road noise and the next generation Accords are supposed to address that. We have found the 4 cylinder engine to have adequate power and acceleration and it delivers 30 - 32 MPG like clockwork even with my wife's somewhat heavy foot.
  • darthvapourdarthvapour Member Posts: 8
    I currently have a '94 Nissan Maxima with a V6 which I average close to 30 mpg (Canada) and wonder what the V6 Accord does. My driving is 75% Highway, 25% city. Also, what is the 4 cyl like on the highway? How fast/noisy is the engine at 100-120 km/h? I am interested in saving fuel as I don't expect prices will ever be as low as they are again, and I'd like to keep this car in good running order for 10+ years.

    Thanks for your comments.

    Norm

    PS Is it true that Honda invoice = MSRP - 6%?
  • robertsmxrobertsmx Member Posts: 5,525
    The four cylinder is a quiet engine even at high speeds. There is no wind noise either, the problem with Accords is the noise from the tires. Perhaps it is the stiffer suspension that plays a role.
    On freeway (65-75 mph), my experience (I-4) has been 30-32 mpg on a consistent basis which would be 36-38 mpg in your case (Canada). The car has all the power I need upto 85 mph. It is quite easy to hit 80 mph and not notice it, even with high cross winds.
    As for fuel mileage with a V6, your driving habits may return similar mileage as it does in your Maxima, may be a gallon or two better, but I wouldn't bet on it.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    My brother has a '98 EXV6 & he said he gets about 22 - 23 mpg city. I personally find the I4 fairly quiet UNTIL you have to push it. I think for fairly sedate driving the I4 is plenty peppy. But if you plan on keeping the car for 10+ years, and you can live with the V6 gas mileage, I would go for the six. Engines tend to lose a bit of muscle as they age, and you may find the I4 underpowered when it gets older.

    I guess I was the one that posted about the spread between invoice and MSRP being 6% for 2002. That's the info I got from carcostcanada.com. There is, however, a $500 cash incentive from Honda to dealers until April 1, 02 which may result in a bigger discount. If you like the current body style, this may be an opportune time to buy. You may get deeper discount at the end of the model year, but there may not be the model/colour of your choice.
  • darthvapourdarthvapour Member Posts: 8
    We went to Calgary Honda to check out their big event. They had a 2002 Accord SE for $25,998 incl. delivery, rear splash guards, bug deflector, floor mats, and block heater. GST would be $1,820, for a total of $27,818. List price is $25,829 plus $850 delivery, plus whatever those options are worth.

    Trying to be smart I guessed the invoice price to be about $24,279, then with the $500 incentive for sales before April 1st, his invoice cost would be about $23,779.

    I always believed the best way to negotiate was cost up. So I offered the guy $24,500, which I figured gave the guy over $700 profit. I agreed to add $1000 for delivery incl. options. That's $25,500 plus GST, which somehow the salesman calculated to be $27,836. I offered them $27,750. The salesman took the offer to his manager and came back saying that their 'all in' price couldn't go any less than $27,900.

    Remember the straight off the lot price would have been $27,818 with no negotiating. Unfortunately I never calculated a straight price plus GST. Brain cramp I guess.

    Did I screw myself out of a good deal by refusing $27,900? Or, should they have accepted my $27,750 or maybe even less. I.e. The salesman accepted my offer $24,500 + $1,000 + $1785 GST = $27,285.

    Anyway we left. At 5PM the salesman called me to see if he could get me a deal. Ha ha, he asked if I'd accept $27,800, which was my counter offer to his $27,900. I told him I was there and offered him that already. Now he went on and on about tire taxes, registration fees, a/c taxes, and some special security/alarm registration fee of $395. What crap. I told him the price off the lot was less than their offer to me. Thanks a lot. Anyway, he said to call him and let him know what I'd like a deal for, and he'd see what he could do. I told him I'd think it over and let him know. So, what is a good, but realistic price for this car? It's a 2002 Accord SE w/Automatic, block heater, floor mats, rear splash guards, and a full width plastic bug deflector.

    Thanks,

    Norm

    PS I hate car salesmen.
  • pmarvinpmarvin Member Posts: 25
    With all the talk about Honda's "lousy brakes", I thought I should tell my experiences. I had a '91 Accord EX which I gave to my daughter last year. It now has 389k miles on it. I drive to Chihuahua, Mexico almost every week, a distance of 500 miles round trip, usually at between 85 and 100mph. I changed brake pads about every 80k miles and had the rotors turned twice. I changed the rear shoes at 350k miles, not because they were worn out, but because I couldn't bear to drive the car any farther without changing them. So Hondas have lousy brakes? It's news to me!
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    My 1990 Acura Integra has 140,000 miles on the original front brake pads. I did have to replace the rears at 90,000.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    My Civic has 'em. But lousy??? I don't think so.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    I have a feeling whatever needs to be done to fix this will probably involve seat replacement or reupholster. I hope that re-initialize procedure you mentioned will be the answer, but the one caveat you mentioned about not getting wet, unfortunately does not apply. About a year ago the windows were left down and a brief downpour did get the seats slighlty damp. If this incident is what continues to cause the phantom light then something is way wrong with this design. The seats definitely are bone dry now. Are there standard diagnostic procedures for determining what part of this system is causing the problem. Does the SRS control unit(or any other on board computer) store trouble codes. Thanks for your help.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    Make me worry about the long term relibility of my beloved Hondas. I don't want to be as afraid of a EXV6 as a Benz when they hit 100,000 miles.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    For the SE sedan 4 cylinder, the dealer's cost (invoice) with the $500 incentive and INCLUDING PDI, freight, and air tax is $24,702. So if you give him $700 profit (about 3% of cost which is very reasonable), that would bring the price to $25,402. There is usually about $150 in doc fee and tire levy but those are negotiable. If you add the 7% GST the total would be $27,180. About $27,330 tops even if you include the doc fees. I have not included the accessories you mentioned. The bug deflector I don't think is a Honda accessory. Mats are standard. So even your offer of $27,750 is a bit high because I doubt the accessories come to over $400. The heater and splash guard list for about $200. I'm not sure about the bug deflector. I think that's an aftermarket item. The salesman should have accepted your offer. You should check out the prices of the accessories ahead of time at the parts counter and then include in your offer the option to buy any accessory with at least 15% discount. In other words, don't include accessories with the purchase because you should be able to get a bigger discount on them if you buy them separate from the transaction on the car. But overall you guys are not that far apart -- about $300 - $400 apart depending on what you do with the accessories.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    The SRS computer(red light on dash) will store continuous problems with the side air bag system. Since it is designed to detect the position of a passenger(yellow light) it sometimes does not set a code when you think it should but it will if the problem is constant. Since so much time has passed since the water hit the seat you are right it should be dry. If you want to make sure you can leave the car running with heat on full blast for 15 min. before you bring it in for the system to be checked out and re-initialized. Also there is specific test that can be done for the side system but as with anything electrical, sometimes it must be malfunctioning at the time of the test.
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