Isn't it in the dealer's interest to push the steptronic automatic over the manual? Isn't the auto/step a $1200 option? (Now that I have it I forgot how much it was).
I have a 2000 540i 6-speed with reasonably low miles (19k) and am considering trading up to an M5. Presumably 2003 will be the last year of the current M5 model since there is an anticipated 5 series model change. This may sound like a stupid question, and it certainly is a stretch to do either way, but, would there be any advantage or concern with waiting to order the M5 until the 2003 model year, or should I just do it? I can honestly say that the 540i that I have is a great car, and that I did consider the M5 when I purchased it (and wished I had then so I didn't have to hear my wife say "another new car, again...and more money"), it would be about a $35k expense, all-in. Unfortunately, ED is not an option for me.
Does anyone know of a dealer who will sell the M5 below sticker, or am I dream'n? I know I can get it for sticker in the MI area from the same dealer I have worked with already. Would anyone consider the latest BMW cellular accessory option (I do like and use the handsfree option, etc.), or the M Audio upgrade option?
I know I am looking for support to make the leap, but any honest opinions are greatly appreciated.
I am done reading and lurking and am actually going to drive one of these beauties. I have arranged a test drive with a local dealer who will have waiting for me a 530 and 540 with and without SP so I can finally let my rear end and lead foot make an informed decision. Any suggestions as to what I should concentrate on in the test drive? Also I am probably going to lease. given that (as a first time leassee) what types of lease deals have you all been seeing (i.e money factors, residual etc). Finally is performance center delivery limited to just purchase or can lease pickup be done there as well. Thanks agian for all the useful input.
Be honest with yourself (and your wife): Yes, the M5 is an amazing car, but the 540i is pretty amazing in its own right. You'd be plunking down a lot of money for the upgrade, so I wouldn't endanger kids' college funds or retirement savings for the upgrade. But if it's disposable cash, by all means the M5 is an unparalleled beast.
As for the model years, there's no certainty here. Presumably, the M5 will continue side-by-side with the rest of the E39 5-series through mid-end 2003, but it may very well continue past that point (to wit, BMW continued selling the previous-generation M3 for two years after the rest of the 3-series evolved into their current state: the E46). Likely, there will be a 1-2 year gap before the new E60 M5 will debut, but time will reward the patient: Rumors abound of a 500hp, V-10 goliath (but I wouldn't be surprised if its price went up as well).
And pricing: I doubt you'd find any M5's below sticker, since there's still a wait list at most dealers for one. Due to the economic bubble burst, however, there are a fair number of very-low mileage M5's out there you can probably find (check the bimmer.org classifieds and ebaymotors.com sites) for a few thousand below sticker.
Options: The BMW cellular phone is a good example of monopolistic power at its worst: A $200 phone and a voice-recognition adapter being sold exclusively by dealers for $1500-$2000 installed. Yes, the price is ridiculous, but it's the only way you'll get a clean installation of a hands-free phone with full integration/control from the steering wheel buttons. I'd get it if I did a lot of business calls from my car, but otherwise not. And the M audio upgrade is decent, but you could probably go aftermarket to improve the componentry even more. Check the M5 forums at bimmer.org for a range of opinions.
Congratulations on "joining" (soon enough, at least) our world. It's a good thing you're seeing a few different models. I'd suggest you even test drive a 525 as well, to get an even more broad impression of the 5-series range. One thing to consider during your test drive: A test so may give a biased opinion of the 540. Its power is clearly superior and more evident on test drives than the 525's and 530's virtues: rack & pinion steering (more precise and better feel) and lower weight (car handles better--especially with sport package--and is more 'tossable'). Don't get me wrong; the 540 is an awesome car, and handles better than almost every other sedan out there. But a test drive will expose a car's power more readily than it will its handling prowess. If you live in Florida and drive in straight lines all day long, you probably don't care. But if you encounter twists and turns with any regularity, you may appreciate the 525 or 530's superior (albeit slight) handling. If you're able to convince the dealer to let you take the cars out on your own (or if he doesn't mind you seeing what they're made of), I'd encourage you to really push them. I'm sure you'll like them all, so enjoy.
As for Spartanburg delivery (which I highly recommend), yes, it's available regardless of purchasing or leasing.
I was getting out of the car (2002 530i)& hit the turn signal by mistake. No signal on inside or outside the car, but the passenger side daytime running light came on & stayed on. Can someone else try this & tell of your results? Seems like just a quirk, althogh I expected the running light to go off after a few minutes. Thanks.
In Europe, in little towns and villages, folks park their car half on the sidewalk and halfway into the (very narrow) street. As an aid to on-coming motorists, most European cars have the ability to light a front and rear light (usually the turn signal) on one side of the car.
As it turns out, you now know how to do that, simply leave the turn signal stalk on either the left or right setting and when the engine is off, the outer lamps will light.
Does anyone know on a CPO, regardless of the year and model I guess, is the clutch covered!! Buying a CPO can save some $$, but if the previous driver did not know how to massage and drive the clutch - look out! I am referring to a 528 manual!
Not sure any BMW warranty covers clutch wear & tear. Only clear manufacturing defects. I've got a CPO '98 540i6. Per my CPO brochure, which I received 12/01, p. 10:
"What is not Covered: Upkeep
Manual transmission clutch assemblies"
There is also a discussion on p. 9 about limitations related to "components or parts...that are subject to gradual deterioration or wear as a result of driving habits, conditions, or use...."
The August 2001 issue of BMW CCA Roundel has a Tech Talk Q&A on this. Writer opines that one reason 540i6 uses a CDV (clutch delay valve) is to protect the transmission because "The purpose of the CDV is thought to be to delay clutch action in order to protect drivetrain components against wear or failure resulting from 'hole shot' clutch action. Drivetrain components are warranty items, whereas clutch components are wear items."
Also, check out the 4/98 issue of C&D. Is their 40,000 mile long-term test wrap up of '97 540i6. Their clutch went out at 30,377 miles. Cost them $1,653: "Since the failure of the clutch could not be attributed to a defect in its manufacture, it wasn't covered by the warranty."
Kind of scary!! My dealer tells me the "Clutch Plate" is covered to 100K under CPO. I have a feeling there is more to a clutch than just the clutch plate. I can drive one, but do not know how visually inspect one. I would like to think a 2000 with 17,000 miles on and driven by a BMW Exec (hoping he knew how to drive it or would have asked for another car - but hey maybe he learned to drive a clutch with this car indeed) would be in good shape, but who knows!! Buyer beware with a CPO clutch I guess!!
I'm shopping for a used 1999 540ia. Here I just want to get some ideas about the price. I found one black 540ia with Steptronic and sports package(include that M steering) w/ 41000 miles. In either Edmunds or KBB, I can't find the exact options for the steptronic transmission. is $36000 fair price for this car? I'm buying it from the owner, what do you guys think? I saw and tested it, it's in pretty nice condition except a couple of door dings. I'm in Bay area, any folks here had experience shopping car from the wholesale auction site in Hayward? today I went there and saw 200 lease return BMWs parking there. The dealers said the this month's auction will be on Tuesday and they can sell me the car w/ $1000 mark-up over the wholesale price. They will represent me for the auction. anybody ever did this to buy a car? is it good deal or just more hassels?
Can someone explain the purpose of the break in period for the 530? What aren't you supposed to do and why? What could happen if you ignore it? My 530 should arrive sometime in April and I was just curious.
I don't remember the salesperson telling me anything about it when I picked up my 1999 328i 3 years ago. Did it have one too? If so, I definetly didn't follow it.
I am working with Joern Esser at Passport BMW. Very upfront, no surprises, and nice to work with. The deal I got was consistent with the very best offers I have seen on this site over ED invoice. We negotiated for about 10 seconds on the phone (if you call it that) on a 525 and continue to correspond through email. Give him a call and I think you will enjoy your buying experience as much as I am.
All cars have a break-in period. However some demo cars are pushed way beyond the guidelines and some owners ignore the guidelines. You'll do what you want, but the 3L engine has a recommendation of 1200 miles, no kickdowns, rpms below 4500 and speed below 100 (or is it 80?). My own belief is that by following the break-in period, you will have an engine where the rings seat properly, resulting in better performance, less oil consumption and longer engine life. People who tend to lease cars, also sometimes ignore break-in periods because they figure the car's out of their hands in 3 years. Anyway enjoy your new Bimmer.
I completely agree with KDShapiro's comments on break-in. Beyond the 100 mph/4500 rpm break-in guidelines, I think the user's manual also recommends that you basically drive the car gently (no hard clutch engagements or braking, etc.) for the first hundred miles or so.
I bought my car from Passport with a pleasant buying experience... if you want the name of my salesman please let me know and give me your email address. Since you live in the area, you may want to check out a new dealership in Sterling, Va that just opened recently their phone number is 888-954-8222 or check the web site "www.bmwofsterling.com".
I read the manual but still don't understand what the "kickdown" is. I am also having difficulty understaning how the auto climate control works. Yes, I did read the the manual but still not getting it clearly. I know for sure most people on this board completely understand what they are, please explain these two features. I have 530iA.
zuba... Not sure clutch issue is that big a deal. Does any manufacturer cover clutch wear and tear under any warranty (new or certified pre-owned)? They will if due to manufacturing defect but not to abuse, misuse, normal wear or deterioration. Makes sense.
I think it is interesting that BMW CCA Roundel and Bimmer have both frequently reported on the tendency of some automatic transmissions in BMWs to fail in the 80,000-120,000 mile range, pretty much no matter how you maintain it. And when they discuss this issue they point out how bulletproof the manual transmission is. The manual tranny will essentially last forever if you take care of it.
Not sure what is scarier, replacing just your clutch periodically as it wears out like it should or replacing/repairing catastrophic automatic transmission failure?
"Kickdown" occurs when an automatic transmission "Downshifts" automatically (ie. 4th gear to 3rd or 2nd in a passing situation). The problem with said "Kickdown" is that when breaking in a new engine, you may well be operating the engine under the maximum RPM recommendation, however, a little extra squeeze of the throttle may cause the transmission to shift and you RPMs to rise beyond 4500.
By chance, I checked my 530i onboard tool kit which attached to the underside of the luggage compartment lid/tailgate. I only found some pliers and wrenches, the up slot is empty, missing something or just nothing in there. my car is a brand new '02 mode. Anyone one who own a 530i or other 5 series, could you help me to check yours, i am really appreciated.
The thing it's "missing" is a warning triangle, which is required in Europe but not in the US ("Hey, Franz, let's save $1 on making this $50k car and leave off the triangle thing for those Yanks!"). There are those enthusiasts who are incensed with this and have (either directly through their dealer or indirectly through someone in Europe, I'm not sure) ordered the part.
Anyone out there with a clutch in a BMW that is two years old or older, with over 50,000 miles! I am curious as to how they are holding up. If well taken care of, will they go to 125,000 miles and beyond? I have owned several 5-speed Honda's and swear by their clutches - they are extremely reliable. I would assume the German's can make a clutch close to that of the Japanese!
Kickdown refers to what others call- Passing gear, in other words you want to accelerate quickly to pass someone and " kickdown" to a lower gear,i.e. 4th,3rd or 2nd depending on speed and what gear your are presently in. I have found that if I just keep the Automatic Climate Control in AUTO on both controls that it cools or warms just fine. You can also use the dial to dial to blue for a little more cool temp or to red for a little warmer. I have used the AC in So Cal in very warm temps and this worked just perfectly, no problems at all. Hope this helps.
I have driven a number of German cars (not all BMWs), and three of them have made it over the century mark on the original clutch. I have no doubt that any properly driven 3-Series or 5-Series will go to at least 100,000 miles on the original clutch disk.
scottc8... If you read the full C&D report in their 4/98 issue you'll quickly see why this particular 540i6 clutch might've failed at 30,377 miles: "But let's do a bit of honest waffling: The 24 zany enthusiasts who drove it over nine months didn't exactly treat it with the sensitivity afforded to, oh, an egret mired in an oil spill...it is nearly impossible to resist driving this car hard." They were running 5.5 second 0-60 MPH times at start and 5.4 second times at 40,000 miles. At 40,000 miles it was ripping 1/4 mile in 14.0 seconds at 101 mph. And pulling .87g. I'd say that is quite impressive and maybe worth a bit of clutch wear & tear??? And they got 19 mpg over 40,000 test!
If you take decent care of your manual transmission and don't abuse it, the clutch will wear a long, long time and the basic tranny should last for hundreds of thousands of miles troublefree.
You're right, of course. Just couldn't help yanking the chain that was dangling so invitingly in front of me. Call it a manifestation of the "underdog mentality."
As for the auto climate control, this is what I do not understand. Let's say I set it at 72 degrees and turn on the AC, in my mind when the temperature reaches 72 the AC should cut off just like the AC in my house, but it doesn't. In my theory, I assume the system lets in warm air from the engine to maintain the set temp when it senses that the temp is dropping below 72. Do I have the right theory or I just miss the boat completely?
Shipo, have you discovered the cause and remedy for your brake light problem yet?
Not yet, I will pull the rear wheels off tomorrow to check to wear on them, I suspect they are the culprit given that a quick “Eyeball” job through the wheel sees considerable erosion of the disk and brake pads. Stay tuned.
As to the Climate Control, I don't have my 530i yet, so I cannot offer any help there.
Out of the four manual BMWs I've owned, I've replaced one clutch disc, and that was only because the tranny on my Bavaria 3.0 had to come out anyway at 106000 miles(the PO had run hypoid oil in the gearbox and destroyed the synchros and bearings). The 535is got a new clutch at @200000 miles and the M6 is still on the original at 125000. The Club Sport is at 69000 and needless to say there is negligible clutch wear. With the exception of the Bavaria, all of my manual Bimmers saw/see regular track use. You simply have to be a really inept driver to trash a BMW clutch before 100000 miles.
boxster... I'm risk averse. Even though you'll still have a little bit of the original factory b-to-b warranty remaining, I wouldn't consider such a complex car without a decent follow-up warranty. Have you considered BMW CPO? You should run a locate off BMW NA's CPO locator to see what other '99 540iA Sports are out there and at what price.
If you go thru with this private party sale, have you checked out 3rd party used car warranties? The ones I've seen from the few reportedly decent companies can set you back a couple thousand dollars, depending upon terms. You should factor that into any cost analysis as well as comparing CPO to private party sale.
Of course, you might pay a decent mechanic to pour over it. Have you looked at the new Consumer Reports 2002 Car issue's historical reliability data for '99 5 Series? Data is pretty good but there are a couple areas to be on look for.
If you're looking for a decent 3rd party extended service plan, check out the plans offered by Virginia Surety company (a subsidiary of Aon). They are sold by many credit unions at a low (~$100) markup. (As you know, dealer markups can reach or exceed 100%.)
No, I have no interest in VA Surety, but we used to use them when I was in the business and they have a decent product. It is a "named exclusion" product meaning everything is covered EXCEPT what's listed. Be very wary of "named component" products, meaning it's only covered if it IS listed. You often get an impressively long list of items covered, but you'd be amazed at what gets left out and is therefore not covered!
The climate control system in your car doesn't operate the same way your home system does, because a car's internal temperature fluctuates far faster and is more susceptible to lighting influences (since the greenhouse is proportionally far larger than the average house).
Therefore, it wouldn't make sense to turn the system completely off once the temperature reaches, say, 72 degrees. Assuming there's any sunlight, that temperature will start rising immediately. Furthermore, there's a couple of safety issues involved; for one, stale air in a car is bad, because the oxygen content starts deminishing, while the carbon dioxide content starts increasing. Exposed long enough, it can make you lightheaded, less alert, and eventually, potentially pass out. For another, stale air is sleep-inducing, while drafts help keep you more alert. That is why BMW places the cold-hot dial on the center vents; it allows you to continue getting gentle cooler air on the face to refresh you even if it's freezing outside and the top and lower vents are spewing out hot air as fast as possible to warm the cabin.
Therefore, if it's cold out and you set it to 72, the system will at first--once the engine warms up sufficiently--blast out warm air as quickly as possible to reach the set temperature. If it's dark out, it'll just reduce the fan speed to keep the temperature levelled. If it's sunny out--which would start to warm the car up more than requested--the system would start blowing in fresh cool air to keep it down to 72. Likewise, if it's hot out, the AC will continue blowing air at a reduced speed once the set temperature is reached, to prevent it from climbing up quickly.
I'll take a try at answering this. I've only had one other vehicle w/auto CC, 99 300m, and the compressor would only work when the system deemed it. This would happen without pushing a separate button. A snowflake would show up on the display to let the driver know what mode it was in. If the temp. outside would be 50 deg. and sunny, the system would blow outside air without the comp. running to keep the cabin 70 degrees. Once the system realized the outside air was not cool enough to keep the cabin temp. 70 degrees, the comp. would activate to compensate. That system would also sense humidity inside the cabin. The compressor would activate on cold rainy days as well using warm air. My 02 530ia in auto CC will not activate the comp. I have to do that. I'm sure if the conditions dictate, the comp. will be on and the system will add warm air to get the correct. temp. I can live with this but the 300m was much easier to use and I didn't get the feeling of the comp. running needlessly. I believe your theory is correct.
Been reading up on the 530i on this board for 3+ months now. It's incredibly informative and helpful. My thanks to everyone for making me more educated about this vehicle. My salesman was very impressed with my questions/insights.
Took delivery yesterday on my '02 530i. Got the "ubiquitous" titanium silver, PP, Prem. Sound, Cold Weather, Steptronic, Lumbar, Fold Down Rear & Xenons. Since it's pouring down the rain where I'm at and I want to keep my car spanking clean for a little longer, I'm just sitting in the car in the garage and becoming familiar with the controls. (My wife thinks I'm nuts!) Like many earlier posts, I'm totally in love with this vehicle. It literally hugs the road and is rock solid. (Is there a bolt anywhere or is everything welded?)
Thanks again for all your valuable info. I'll keep watching and reading and will contribute my own advice when I'm more knowledgeable. Oh yeah, bought my wife a Z3 last October. Can't get the smile off her face when she's driving it too. For last Valentines Day, we bought each other California dusters. True Love?
Thank you both for detailed information on CC. Snagiel, you should be working for BMW in charge of the manual writing. I read your explanation once and understood it completely. Before I posted the question, I had read it over and over but did not get a clear understanding. I feel the manual could have been written better in some areas. I do not know everything about my car yet, I am still learning and still have a long way to go. For now I can say that I understand how the auto CC is working and I can move on and try to learn how to use and program the car's memory with the key. I never own a sophisticated car before that is why I am having trouble understanding it. I'm not complaining because I really love the car.
Could I state the following two options and have everyone vote: I already know many of you will respond by saying buy a new one instead or go ED - but I want opinions on the folowing two options:
1. 2000 528I Premium, Cold Weather, Sport Package, Xenon,CD, Rear Shade, Manual, Silver in color, 193 HP (but a manual) CPO to 100K miles, 17,000 current miles - $36,000
2. 2001 530 Premium, Cold Weather, Xenon, CD, Automatic, Black, 5,000 miles so warranty to 50K, asking price is $41,000. It is from a BMW dealer as well!
If I were to buy option 2 in a 2002 model, after taxes, etc....and not through ED (It just will not work into my schedule right now) I think I can get it for around 45K plus taxes, shipping, etc..
This is the kind of question that makes this board valuable!! At least to me! Thanks in advance!
LOL! Thanks, but that manual certainly could use a good editor. And I didn't even get into some of the climate control system's more advanced (and esoteric) functions...For example, because of the oxygen/carbon dioxide problem I mentioned above, even when you set the system to "recirculate," it'll still draw in fresh air every couple minutes for about 20 seconds. Not to mention its ability to automatically recirculate when it detects high carbon dioxide/monoxide outside (when stuck in very heavy traffic, for example). The only thing about it that puzzles me is why the A/C engagement is strictly manual, as ts530 pointed out above. But, like other things with this car (such as why the fuel door is on the passenger side), I'm rather certain there's a logical explanation behind it.
Hmmm, if I remember correctly, you do lots of driving, as in > 25K per year. That said, you might be better served with a car without the SP, given that you would need a new set of rubber every year (or less). In addition, the 2000 528i will most likely need rubber within 8,000 miles, so, there is another $600-$1,000 dollars you must factor into the price.
Also, if I remember correctly, you have a slight preference for an automatic transmission, so, my vote for your three options are as follows:
1) 2001 530i 2) 2002 530i (the one for 45K), or a new 525i for arount $41K 3) 2000 528i
Hmmm...I think I'd pick the 528, mainly because it's got the stick and the sports package (in my mind the two most important features/options on my 530). Acceleration is likely to be very close between the two (since the auto, I've found, really saps the mojo out of the 530). But Shipo makes a good case above; if I did a lot of highway driving, I'd probably forego the sport package and opt for comfort.
Not to sound shallow, but be aware the 528 comes pre-2001 facelift, so it won't have the angel eyes or clear rear turn signals. Of course it's trivial, but it seems like a quarter of all threads in bimmer.org are about pre-2001 people wanting to make these upgrades.
But, be sure--as with any car, new or used--to drive them both to your satisfaction. Don't go just by what we 'vote' or what the dealer says. If you get the sense the 528's been driven hard (i.e. is creaking and moaning constantly), you may want to avoid it. Good luck!
I rather like the fuel door on the right side of the car, it seems that there are far more cars with said fuel door on the left side, so, the lines at the gas pumps around here are almost always shorter with the BMW.
I visited Park Avenue BMW this weekend to finish up some paperwork on my 530i. While strolling around looking at various cars, I noticed that the showroom had not one, but two 5ers with manual transmissions on the floor, and a really nice CPO 540i 6-Speed with 12,000 miles on it over in the CPO showroom. They had at least a couple of other CPO 5ers out on the lot with manual transmissions as well. It seems that here in the NYC metro area at least, manual transmissions are alive and well. ;-)
I guess that's a nice side-benefit (although if all the spots but one are taken at the gas station, I'll maneuver my car in any way necessary to get in there!), but the actual reason is, if you should happen to run out of gas and have to pull the car to the side of the road, they figured it would be safer to fill up with a portable tank while standing behind the car (and not amidst oncoming traffic). Plus, it also aids the right-left weight balance of the car (same reason they put the battery in the rear right side) given that most of the time there's only a driver in the car.
Comments
Does anyone know of a dealer who will sell the M5 below sticker, or am I dream'n? I know I can get it for sticker in the MI area from the same dealer I have worked with already. Would anyone consider the latest BMW cellular accessory option (I do like and use the handsfree option, etc.), or the M Audio upgrade option?
I know I am looking for support to make the leap, but any honest opinions are greatly appreciated.
As for the model years, there's no certainty here. Presumably, the M5 will continue side-by-side with the rest of the E39 5-series through mid-end 2003, but it may very well continue past that point (to wit, BMW continued selling the previous-generation M3 for two years after the rest of the 3-series evolved into their current state: the E46). Likely, there will be a 1-2 year gap before the new E60 M5 will debut, but time will reward the patient: Rumors abound of a 500hp, V-10 goliath (but I wouldn't be surprised if its price went up as well).
And pricing: I doubt you'd find any M5's below sticker, since there's still a wait list at most dealers for one. Due to the economic bubble burst, however, there are a fair number of very-low mileage M5's out there you can probably find (check the bimmer.org classifieds and ebaymotors.com sites) for a few thousand below sticker.
Options: The BMW cellular phone is a good example of monopolistic power at its worst: A $200 phone and a voice-recognition adapter being sold exclusively by dealers for $1500-$2000 installed. Yes, the price is ridiculous, but it's the only way you'll get a clean installation of a hands-free phone with full integration/control from the steering wheel buttons. I'd get it if I did a lot of business calls from my car, but otherwise not. And the M audio upgrade is decent, but you could probably go aftermarket to improve the componentry even more. Check the M5 forums at bimmer.org for a range of opinions.
Good luck.
As for Spartanburg delivery (which I highly recommend), yes, it's available regardless of purchasing or leasing.
Good luck.
Colt
In Europe, in little towns and villages, folks park their car half on the sidewalk and halfway into the (very narrow) street. As an aid to on-coming motorists, most European cars have the ability to light a front and rear light (usually the turn signal) on one side of the car.
As it turns out, you now know how to do that, simply leave the turn signal stalk on either the left or right setting and when the engine is off, the outer lamps will light.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Buying a CPO can save some $$, but if the previous driver did not know how to massage and drive the clutch - look out! I am referring to a 528 manual!
Colt
Best Regards,
Shipo
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
"What is not Covered: Upkeep
Manual transmission clutch assemblies"
There is also a discussion on p. 9 about limitations related to "components or parts...that are subject to gradual deterioration or wear as a result of driving habits, conditions, or use...."
The August 2001 issue of BMW CCA Roundel has a Tech Talk Q&A on this. Writer opines that one reason 540i6 uses a CDV (clutch delay valve) is to protect the transmission because "The purpose of the CDV is thought to be to delay clutch action in order to protect drivetrain components against wear or failure resulting from 'hole shot' clutch action. Drivetrain components are warranty items, whereas clutch components are wear items."
Also, check out the 4/98 issue of C&D. Is their 40,000 mile long-term test wrap up of '97 540i6. Their clutch went out at 30,377 miles. Cost them $1,653: "Since the failure of the clutch could not be attributed to a defect in its manufacture, it wasn't covered by the warranty."
I'm shopping for a used 1999 540ia. Here I just want to get some ideas about the price.
I found one black 540ia with Steptronic and sports package(include that M steering) w/ 41000 miles. In either Edmunds or KBB, I can't find the exact options for the steptronic transmission.
is $36000 fair price for this car? I'm buying it from the owner, what do you guys think? I saw and tested it, it's in pretty nice condition except a couple of door dings.
I'm in Bay area, any folks here had experience shopping car from the wholesale auction site in Hayward? today I went there and saw 200 lease return BMWs parking there. The dealers said the this month's auction will be on Tuesday and they can sell me the car w/ $1000 mark-up over the wholesale price. They will represent me for the auction. anybody ever did this to buy a car? is it good deal or just more hassels?
Thanks a lot!!
I don't remember the salesperson telling me anything about it when I picked up my 1999 328i 3 years ago. Did it have one too? If so, I definetly didn't follow it.
I don't have a car yet, but so far so good.
DL
...talk about a good reason not to buy a "demo"!
I think it is interesting that BMW CCA Roundel and Bimmer have both frequently reported on the tendency of some automatic transmissions in BMWs to fail in the 80,000-120,000 mile range, pretty much no matter how you maintain it. And when they discuss this issue they point out how bulletproof the manual transmission is. The manual tranny will essentially last forever if you take care of it.
Not sure what is scarier, replacing just your clutch periodically as it wears out like it should or replacing/repairing catastrophic automatic transmission failure?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Anyone one who own a 530i or other 5 series, could you help me to check yours, i am really appreciated.
to pass someone and " kickdown" to a lower gear,i.e. 4th,3rd or 2nd depending on
speed and what gear your are presently in.
I have found that if I just keep the Automatic Climate Control in AUTO on both
controls that it cools or warms just fine. You can also use the dial to dial to blue
for a little more cool temp or to red for a little warmer. I have used the AC in So Cal
in very warm temps and this worked just perfectly, no problems at all. Hope this
helps.
Best Regards,
Shipo
If you take decent care of your manual transmission and don't abuse it, the clutch will wear a long, long time and the basic tranny should last for hundreds of thousands of miles troublefree.
As for the auto climate control, this is what I do not understand. Let's say I set it at 72 degrees and turn on the AC, in my mind when the temperature reaches 72 the AC should cut off just like the AC in my house, but it doesn't. In my theory, I assume the system lets in warm air from the engine to maintain the set temp when it senses that the temp is dropping below 72. Do I have the right theory or I just miss the boat completely?
Shipo, have you discovered the cause and remedy for your brake light problem yet?
As to the Climate Control, I don't have my 530i yet, so I cannot offer any help there.
Best Regards,
Shipo
it's from the owner.
Thanks a lot!!
If you go thru with this private party sale, have you checked out 3rd party used car warranties? The ones I've seen from the few reportedly decent companies can set you back a couple thousand dollars, depending upon terms. You should factor that into any cost analysis as well as comparing CPO to private party sale.
Of course, you might pay a decent mechanic to pour over it. Have you looked at the new Consumer Reports 2002 Car issue's historical reliability data for '99 5 Series? Data is pretty good but there are a couple areas to be on look for.
No, I have no interest in VA Surety, but we used to use them when I was in the business and they have a decent product. It is a "named exclusion" product meaning everything is covered EXCEPT what's listed. Be very wary of "named component" products, meaning it's only covered if it IS listed. You often get an impressively long list of items covered, but you'd be amazed at what gets left out and is therefore not covered!
Therefore, it wouldn't make sense to turn the system completely off once the temperature reaches, say, 72 degrees. Assuming there's any sunlight, that temperature will start rising immediately. Furthermore, there's a couple of safety issues involved; for one, stale air in a car is bad, because the oxygen content starts deminishing, while the carbon dioxide content starts increasing. Exposed long enough, it can make you lightheaded, less alert, and eventually, potentially pass out. For another, stale air is sleep-inducing, while drafts help keep you more alert. That is why BMW places the cold-hot dial on the center vents; it allows you to continue getting gentle cooler air on the face to refresh you even if it's freezing outside and the top and lower vents are spewing out hot air as fast as possible to warm the cabin.
Therefore, if it's cold out and you set it to 72, the system will at first--once the engine warms up sufficiently--blast out warm air as quickly as possible to reach the set temperature. If it's dark out, it'll just reduce the fan speed to keep the temperature levelled. If it's sunny out--which would start to warm the car up more than requested--the system would start blowing in fresh cool air to keep it down to 72. Likewise, if it's hot out, the AC will continue blowing air at a reduced speed once the set temperature is reached, to prevent it from climbing up quickly.
Hope this helps.
Took delivery yesterday on my '02 530i. Got the "ubiquitous" titanium silver, PP, Prem. Sound, Cold Weather, Steptronic, Lumbar, Fold Down Rear & Xenons. Since it's pouring down the rain where I'm at and I want to keep my car spanking clean for a little longer, I'm just sitting in the car in the garage and becoming familiar with the controls. (My wife thinks I'm nuts!) Like many earlier posts, I'm totally in love with this vehicle. It literally hugs the road and is rock solid. (Is there a bolt anywhere or is everything welded?)
Thanks again for all your valuable info. I'll keep watching and reading and will contribute my own advice when I'm more knowledgeable. Oh yeah, bought my wife a Z3 last October. Can't get the smile off her face when she's driving it too. For last Valentines Day, we bought each other California dusters. True Love?
Thanks again.
1. 2000 528I Premium, Cold Weather, Sport Package, Xenon,CD, Rear Shade, Manual, Silver in color, 193 HP (but a manual) CPO to 100K miles, 17,000 current miles - $36,000
2. 2001 530 Premium, Cold Weather, Xenon, CD, Automatic, Black, 5,000 miles so warranty to 50K, asking price is $41,000. It is from a BMW dealer as well!
If I were to buy option 2 in a 2002 model, after taxes, etc....and not through ED (It just will not work into my schedule right now) I think I can get it for around 45K plus taxes, shipping, etc..
This is the kind of question that makes this board valuable!! At least to me! Thanks in advance!
Also, if I remember correctly, you have a slight preference for an automatic transmission, so, my vote for your three options are as follows:
1) 2001 530i
2) 2002 530i (the one for 45K), or a new 525i for arount $41K
3) 2000 528i
Best Regards,
Shipo
Hmmm...I think I'd pick the 528, mainly because it's got the stick and the sports package (in my mind the two most important features/options on my 530). Acceleration is likely to be very close between the two (since the auto, I've found, really saps the mojo out of the 530). But Shipo makes a good case above; if I did a lot of highway driving, I'd probably forego the sport package and opt for comfort.
Not to sound shallow, but be aware the 528 comes pre-2001 facelift, so it won't have the angel eyes or clear rear turn signals. Of course it's trivial, but it seems like a quarter of all threads in bimmer.org are about pre-2001 people wanting to make these upgrades.
But, be sure--as with any car, new or used--to drive them both to your satisfaction. Don't go just by what we 'vote' or what the dealer says. If you get the sense the 528's been driven hard (i.e. is creaking and moaning constantly), you may want to avoid it. Good luck!
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo