Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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The dealers in my area don't work off commission (so they say), so I guess that explains the lack of negotiation on their part. I just can't make myself pay that much over invoice for a car...guess it's some recessive gene I have. Perhaps ED is the way to go...
1. Is ED like you mentioned. Shipo saved well over $5000 on his 530i and had a great time to boot. Another member on the 3 series board just got back from an ED weekend and ended up spending $1000 total (air/hotel/food/transportation). He picked the car up on Friday and drove it to the drop off Friday night, toured Zurich by train and then flew back to the states.
2. Many here have posted about positive experiences with Mike Pile BMW in TYLER, TX (about 1.5 hours from you).
3. If Europe is too expensive, then come to the NY area to pick up your car. The NY,NJ,CT area seems to have the best "deals" on higher end cars. You could fly up here, pick up the car, stay overnight, & take a few days to drive back.
Good luck with your search!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
After the deal was done, I asked my salesman if he would be willing to offer the same deal to other folks that I might refer to him, and he told me "Absolutely". Here we are a couple of months later, and he has made good on that promise at least twice. The first one was to a TownHall member here in New Jersey; the second was also a TownHall member located in the Denver area. My salesman even arranged to have the car drop shipped to Colorado after it cleared the VPC for a couple of extra dollars. If you are interested, please contact:
Mike Weber
Park Avenue BMW
Maywood, NJ
201-843-7900
Best Regards,
Shipo
a question on something that is bothering them or something they need info or clarification
and there you all are ! Fantastic, keep up the great work! This board is like no other.
The sales people that I have dealt with are very polite and proper, they do not come off as arrogant, they are even friendly. But, they do tell you that they can not lower the price, and they don't! One of them even said: "I know that I am not giving the best deal, but I am giving you a good deal". He then went on to tell me about customer service nightmares from the other dealer in the area (he did not mention any names, but there is only one other dealer nearby) and how they always have to rescue the buyers. I guess that they resent missing out on the sale profit of the vehicle, while having to do all the BMW-subsidized maintenance.
Anyway, I am hoping to get final details on the pricing from "the other" dealer today. I will keep you posted.
Thanks for your responses.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Interestingly enough, there are a few incentives for a dealer to give you an even better deal on an ED car than a car off of their lot:
1) Each dealership is given a yearly allocation of new cars to sell, and generally speaking, that is all they get, however, when they sell an ED car, said car does NOT come out of their allocation, it is essentially "Found Money".
2) Among other things, a dealerships' allocation is based upon how many cars they sold in the previous year(s). As it turns out, ED cars DO count toward the total of cars sold, so, the more ED cars a dealership sells, the higher the next years' allocation will be.
Talk to your local dealer, many salesman do not even know these facts, so, you may have to educate him/her. In my case, I called the dealership and simply asked the salesman who happened to answer the phone, "Will you accept a deal for a new ED 530i for $1,500 over invoice?"
He said, "Hmmmm, we don't usually do that type of deal, can I call you back in 5 minutes?"
He called back in eight and said, "Are you ready to do the deal right now?" I drove right over there, signed the paperwork and dropped off a deposit check. Total time from initial phone call to signed deal, one hour.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Up until today, it showed my car as having the following options:
530i
Black Sapphire Metallic
Black Leather
Bi-Xenon Headlights
Premium Hi-fi Sound System
Sport Package
Premium Package
By now, we all know that the "Bi-Xenon" thing is wrong, however, today, suddenly my car ceased to have the Sport Package, were it not for the fact that I have already driven it for almost 1,500 miles, I might be inclined to be a little nervous about the change.
If that is not enough, my cars' location seems to be a bit of a mystery as well. Owners Circle now shows my car at the VPC, as of today; however, it also says that my car was supposed to be delivered to my dealership yesterday. A quick call to BMWNA only served to confuse the matter even further, I was told, “Your car is on a Ship, on its way to your dealership.” Now what the hell is that supposed to mean, are they sending my car from the VPC to my dealership via barge up the Hackensack River? Something tells me that a truck might be a little faster. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Incidentally, how is the DSP compared to regular audio in your 530i? Worth the money?
As for the DSP, since I never gave the non-DSP 5er a try, I cannot offer an opinion. That said, I really like the DSP system, while in Europe, we gave Dark Side of the Moon and The Sky is Crying extended listens, and to my (non-audiophile) ear, it sounds GREAT!
Best Regards,
Shipo
P.S.
Over my last several car shopping periods, I have learned to study what is posted here on the internet, and then if a salesman contradicts what I have learned, I walk, NOW!
1.Blue Water
2.Sterling Grey
3.Slate Green
or even Black Sapphire < ala Shipo>
DL
FWIW, unless perfectly clean, it is a little difficult to tell the difference between Jet Black and Black Sapphire Metallic. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
You can bet that the first thing tomorrow, I will be on the phone setting up a time for delivery.
For those of you keeping track, I dropped my car off at E.H. Harms in Munich on 24-Apr-2002, and it looks like I will pick it up tomorrow (23-May-2002), which works out to about as close to a month as you can get. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Congratulations. It will be quite worth the long wait. Many happy miles and many
happy smiles.
One month must have seemed like forever, but it's got to be as short a wait as you can get. Mine took almost 6 weeks.
Re: DSP...I have heard the standard stereo and was not impressed. In my opinion, DSP is a very good system for me. For the money, could it be better? Probably so. But, then you are talking about putting something in aftermarket, and that was not really an option for me. I am not an audiophile, but I do enjoy a good sound system. FWIW, I would by the DSP system again.
Best Regards,
Shipo
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
If I get 2760 under MSRP on the basic 530i for ED, is that a good deal? Also, is the norm to pay invoice on the options, MSRP on the options or something in between?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Then to top it off, I had planned the delivery to coincide with my 12 month BWMCCA membership so I could receive my $1,000 from BMWNA. My car came in early and the dealer made light of the 12-month deadline...I took delivery 18 days before my 1 yr anniversary. I sent in my request with a letter exlaining my circumstances, I'm a return customer, blah, blah, blah, and they reject my request with a form letter.
Do you think its worth the effort, or should I just let this issue die (and go elsewhere in 2005)?
Thanks for letting me vent. I feel better now.
By the way, the car is incredible.
Thanks
Jim OB
Lease price: You said you agreed on "$1800 over invoice," but it's not clear if everything was put down on paper and all fees and costs were tallied up. If it was, and the dealer is now increasing the lease payments on a previously signed agreement, then you have reason to complain and escalate.
"Invoice" amount: I'm not sure if KBB and Edmunds have updated the invoice amounts per 1/1/02 (they probably have by now). I'm sure the right values are at www.eurobuyers.com. Check there.
BMWCCA discount: It sounds like the dealer was eager to make a sale before the end of the month and said whatever he had to to get you to bite. According to the BMWCCA offer, there is a 12 month minimum membership period required before "purchasing" (i.e. delivery). I would have told the dealer to sit on it for 18 days, but I suppose that's a moot point now. I'd speak with the general manager and explain it to him. I doubt the dealership will shell out $1000 out of guilt, but it's worth a shot.
Good luck.
Took delivery on the 530 4 weeks ago here in Germany. The Euro delivery program is terrific and much easier than I had anticipated. Dealer in Michigan took $1500. off the list price and the Euro delivery saved me about another $3000.
A fringe benefit is driving the BMW where it was intended to be driven on the autobahns. Sheer delight and the faster ya go, the better it feels.
The car is a bit big for European city streets, but I'm coping fine. Also, parking is a [non-permissible content removed] sometimes because they generally park parallel with the curb. Also, the public garages are intended for something much shorter and narrower.
Had I thought of this, I would have definitely gotten the Park Distance Control option. Now, my wife has become my parking assistant helping me to guide Big Blue (Water Metallic) in the space.
Audis are seen more frequently here in Germany than they were before. Combination of price, smaller size, and quattro my friends tell me.
But all in all, I'm still happy to have gone with the 530. It is a fantastic machine and reeks with quality.
Check with me next winter in Michigan for next report in the first snow!
As you can see on this board, some people would drive a few hours to get a good deal on cars, I think it is worth it. Regardless of ED or US delivery, the truth is people on this board have been getting as low as $500 over invoice and noe bs. On average, I think $1500-2000 over invoice is pretty reasonable. Servicing your car should not be a problem since you can take your car to any dealer regardless of where you bought the car from. The only difference is some dealer will give you a loaner only if you bought the car from them.
It is pretty sad that some BMW dealers treat customer like dirt but the good thing is we do not have to put up with that by walking away. I have done that a few times myself, and I eventually bought a car from the dealer that treated me with respect and charged me $1700 over invoice.
To rub salt in the wound, I just got a bill from BMW for $471 for excess mileage on my last lease - this is on top of the $430 (add'l fees) and $1,000 (rebate) that I'm out on my new 5.
Its tough to fight back when you're dealing with several entities - dealer, BMWNA, BMN Financial Serv and BMWCCA - they just point to the other guy.
Thanks
Jim
For example, what do you do while idling at a stop light? I heard once that keeping it in gear with the clutch in was a bad idea. It is better to put it in neutral and let the clutch out if you are idling for a while. I am not sure of the reason.
I know that RPM shift points will greatly vary by situation and driver, but where do you shift "normally" while either accelerating or down shifting? After driving my Subaru for years, I revved more powerful manuals pretty high during test drives since I was not used to shifting that quickly.
I thought I would try to promote some discussion for those of us not getting away for the holiday weekend. Personally, I am refinishing my deck.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I believe that downshifting as you approach a stop isn't necessary or recommended. Unless you match revs perfectly, you put a shock on the drivetrain with each lower gear. Also, you can replace a lot of brake pads for the cost of a clutch replacement. There's debate over how much difference downshifting vs. not really makes in the long run.
The main wear on the clutch comes from getting going by revving the engine then engaging the clutch. That means the clutch has to develop enough friction to tame all that power (282 hp) and get all that weight moving (4500+ lbs). Friction wears it out. Simple enough: As a rule rev very little, engage the clutch, then stomp on it. No friction, no wear.
Ditto downshifting. If you match revs and speed, no wear on the clutch. One problem is that the Bimmer is so smooth and quiet that matching the revs "by ear" is hard. It also doesn't protest when you screw up, so it's easy to get sloppy, let the clutch do the work, and wear it out pretty quick.
Kirk is certainly a contender for the all-time longevity prize-- 213k on a clutch is nifty. That man knows how to shift. I imagine he downshifts, too. Right?
What's the shortest anybody's made a clutch last?
For me, downshifting is half the fun of owning a stick, but it can push up the revs fairly quickly if you over do it. Normally, I would downshift to keep the revs in the same range as modest acceleration, e.g. 3000-3500 max at the start, then down to 2000 as I slow (on my Subaru).
Matching revs is more easily handled during acceleration than downshifting. To match during downshifting, it would seem strange to use the gas pedal while slowing down to bring the engine up to speed before engaging a lower gear. As I have been doing it, you can have a 1000-1500 bump in revs during a downshift.
Matching revs isn't really a concept that applies to upshifting. You do it on downshifts to gently bring the engine to the higher RPM required for the lower gear -- you want the engine to drive the rest of the drivetrain, not vice-versa. When you upshift, each succeeding gear demands fewer RPMs, not more.
Lowest clutch replacement mileage: I bought my "midlife crisis" Corvette -- '74 small-block (L82) coupe -- in 1995 with 21,000 miles on the clock. As far as I could tell by documentation and condition/originality of key components, that reading was genuine or close. I had a new clutch in it by 24,000. I figure one of the previous owners just didn't know how to drive it properly. Even the small block cranked out plenty of torque, and the Corvette is not exactly lightweight. By contrast, the clutch on my '82 Datsun 280ZX, which I bought new, still feels strong at 115,000 miles. No world record, but a personal best.
Matching revs on upshifting requires less attention but could still be an issue. Ideally, the engine slows to the right RPM just as the higher gear is engaged. Take too long on the shift, and the engine has slowed too far and requires a little gas to be in the right range. You might hit this while waiting for the car in front of you to speed up after a light.
BTW, guessing the color of your 5 from your screen name, how do you like it? I haven't seen one yet on the road or in the showroom, but it looks nice based on the brochure color chip. Is it close to the ~Atlantic/Atlantis Blue available on Z3s? That was my wife's choice, but not available on the 5. There was no Blue Water in 2001, so we got Topaz, which looks great on an SP 5 with shadowline, and is not common at all.
BMW did drop from 14 colors for the 5 in 2001 to only 12 in 2002, and from 3 reds to none (in the US). Since it does not seem to be a production issue, I wonder why they limit the colors. Sure, it might save some trading between dealers, but the dealers order most cars with the colors they want, from what I understand. You can get 15 colors (or more under special programs?) in Germany, plus many more interiors.
Depending on how far said stop sign or red light is i may or may not down shift but i dont want to ride the clutch either. In addition i also usually never remove fron 1st gear awaiting a light, i would have more problems "rolling back" on a hill than lurching forward, having said that like i mentioned after driving allmost 20 years ive never had any formal training on a manual.
Thoughts ?
DL
"Engine and differential:
Up to 1,200 miles (2,000 km):
Drive at varying engine speeds and
road speeds, but do not exceed
4,500 rpm and the following road
speeds during this initial period:
BMW 525i, 530i: 100 mph (160 km/h)
BMW 540i: 106 mph (170 km/h)."
There are separate notes on tires, brakes, and clutch for 200 or 300 miles.
So, if 100/106 mph is not fast enough for you, cover 1200 miles first.