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Yeah, the DVD system with the "Surround Sound" is the kicker (that and the extra "Moving About" room). My son cannot wait to play Top Gun on the system when we get the new van. ;-) Me, how about Rear Window, Stalag 17 or even Witness for the Prosecution. Yup, when seen from that angle, the 525iT (heated steering wheel (a BIG issue with Mrs. Shipo) and 5-Speed not withstanding) kind of loses a little appeal under that kind of comparison. :-(
AThorpe,
Now that we really are on the cusp of the new car, and now that BMW has softened some of the worst of the "Banglized" lines of the initial shots of I saw of the E60, I can see how it would be real hard to make a decision. From my perspective, I am extremely glad that I got the 2002 530i, and have no desire to see it go, even after its three year lease is up. That said, I would be hard pressed to turn down a chance to drive the new E60 with the blown I6 that has been speculated about. Time will tell. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
So, basically, you live with the dust, which is relentless. It takes me longer wash the wheels and tires than it does the rest of the car, which sucks because two days later the car looks fine but the front wheels are already coated with fresh dust.
FWIW, it isn't always removed at the POE when an ED car enters the U.S. When we left our 530i with the shipper in Paris, we had not a cu. in. of luggage space to spare, so we left it in the car and took our chances. It arrived at the dealer intact, as did the breakdown triangle and the Bavarian tags.
Hope this helps...JL
I will keep everyone posted....JL
My 530i Pics & Details
Best Regards,
Shipo
I did some archival searches and so found one noise source: the seat belt fastener (on the left side of the passenger seat). By moving it back so that it is held snugly between the passenger seat and the center console, it can't vibrate at all during travel. This did eliminate one rattle I was hearing, but the lesser rattle remains. TIA for your help/suggestions.
Reiz: Did you actually suggest someone do ED? You feeling ok? I nthink it is great that you are such a firm believer and supporter of BMW's CPO program that you're willing to consider a CPO car that's not even due out until later this year 3 years down the road:)
athorpe: You'd definitely better get ready for MSRP (and they'll probably try for MSRP plus depending on where you are), so go to costco and stock up on a 5 gallon tub of vasoline. ED is definitely a great way to go, even if the dealer doesn't budge off ED MSRP, it is still something. While shipo (and others will tell you) that BMWs are extremly reliable cars in their 1st years of production (and I'm not saying they're not), it seems that iDrive (BMW) and COMMAND (MB) have had their share of problems upon their respective introductions in the 7 series and S Class. Given that BMW is supposedly introducing a 2nd generation IDrive in the E60 5 series, I'd maybe wait a year (but that's just me) for prices to go down and for some of the bugs to be worked out of the car.
I'm starting to like "bangleization." I hated the 745 when I saw pictures of it and now I really love the design. The Z4 (to me) is a really sharp looking car and much better looking than the Z3 that preceeded it. I'm skeptical of all the E60 photos I see, but think in the end I'll end up liking it more than the current E39 (which I love, especially w/ SP).
I'm sure this is the exception rather than the norm, but I see more M5s on the road around here than 540is (plural). When the E39 first came out I saw lots of 540i Sports (with those really mean looking wheels with the exposed bolts around the edge of the rim), but now I don't see too many 540is (plural) on the road).
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Hope this helps...JL
It is also a very sensible one if you go wih the argument that someone else is willing to take the depreciation hit. I have a friend who purchased an '01 330Ci with 4500 miles on it (in '01) for something like $32K. He's been driving the car for over 2 years and a dealer offered him $27K for the car.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I was cruising at 95-100MPH on the autobahn, so the impact is significant.
Anyone have any helpful tips to repair the only flaw on my new car!
I am off to the dealer for some touch-up paint on Monday.
The first chip on a new car, especially a new BMW is such a bummer!
Hope this helps...JL
nycarguy,
you mentioned Z-4, wait until you see the AC-Schnitzer modified Z-4. I am not too crazy of the styling (stock), but the ACS car looks REAL good.
Thank you for sharing my pain and the tip concerning the Paint Pen. The Autosharppen site was very impressive and up to date with the latest paint codes. I ordered a pen. It is more than the dealer touch-up kit, but according to the information on the web site, the pen is a superior product.
Thanks again
1. This is a clinging sound emanating from my front passenger side wheel area that I noticed while driving with the windows down about a week ago and has continued. It occurs when I go over a bump on the aforementioned side. During the winter I cracked the front tire mudguard(I do not know what it is is really called. I do not believe this is causing the sound but all info will help.
2. The car vibrates when I hit 60 mph and increases until I hit 70 and then it is constant. The vibration is through the steering wheel and the gas peddle. I keep scratching my head on this one because it does not happen all the time.
Please let me know your thoughts.
Thanks
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Other causes can include tire pressure, alignment, wheel balance, and probably a half dozen other things I can't think of right now. This car's steering linkages provide excellent feedback, and one inherrent disadvantage in that precise transmission is that imperfections manifest themselves as steering wheel vibrations at certain speeds.
snagiel - I suppose the only way to tell if it has the sport suspension is to take it to BMW, eh? This is a 2001 530ia with 30,000 miles, leather, prem. sound and 6 disc changer and wood trim. No nav. I can get it for $32,500 but think I'll pass because I'd like to have the lower rear-end gears and higher stall convertor that the SP brings to the table.
If anyone's interested, it's here in Phoenix...Jon
FWIW, as someone who will likely be replacing their sedan with a 530i sport, I also value the sport seats, steering wheel and other amenities that come with the package. I've been spoiled by great Recaro-style seats in a previous Supra and current S2000, and those that come with the 5-series sport package are the next best thing.
Ummm, did I miss something? I have always been under the impression that the 540iA was the only 5er that had a different rear end with the SP. To the best of my knowlege, the 530iA and the 530iA SP have exactly the same transmission and rear end. Anyone?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Looking at 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, (6th), & Final Drive ratios...
540i6: 4.23, 2.53, 1.67, 1.23, 1.00, 0.83, & 2.81
540ia: 3.57, 2.20, 1.51, 1.00, 0.80, & 2.81
540ia Sport: same as 540ia but with 3.15 final
530i5: 4.21, 2.49, 1.66, 1.24, 1.00, & 2.93
530ia: 3.42, 2.22, 1.60, 1.00, 0.75, & 3.46
525i5: 4.23, 2.52, 1.66, 1.22, 1.00, & 3.15
525ia: Same as 530ia
For the automatics, the 525i/530i share same final while the the 540ia Sport changes the final drive from the 540ia non-Sport. For the manuals, each uses a separate final drive.
I'm new to this discussion, so please forgive me if I'm asking something that's been covered 100 times already. I just discovered some SOB scratched the driver's door of my '01 BMW 530i. It wasn't accidental -- he/she made multiple passes. It's hard to tell what instrument was used -- the scratches are wide but not too deep, with no primer or metal showing. The color is topaz, a rich, medium metallic blue. Any suggestions for eliminating or minimizing the damage? Thanks for any advice.
You may try the cheap route: AutoSharp pen, or BMW touch-up paint and clear coat, along with the Langka paint smoothing lotion/tool. But, if the damage is extensive enough, most likely only a professional body shop will be able to bring the door back to its original form. Since I recently got an estimate for damage on a door (albeit for less damage than you describe), I'm guessing the estimate there would be for around $500.
In CA there is a franchise called The Paint Pro, another The Dent Pro. Both do an excellent job fixing minor scratches or dings. Perhaps they're in your area too. They've done stuff for me for about $125 for a couple door dings or another time for chips & minor scratches all over. They may be in your area. Your's may be too severe or prominent to fix that way & Snagiel's advice to go to a paint shop necessary to do. Good luck
FYI, I have my snow tires on the car and the problem has only revealed itself over the last two weeks. The snows went on in December. Also, tire presure is good.
I will bring up all of your suggestions.
One other thing: I was trying to kill two birds with one visit. I asked if I could get my first service although I have two green lights remaining. They will not do it until one year or one green light. I know the lights decrease depending on a number of factors. I drive aggressively and have 11,000 miles since end of October. Any chance I will hit one bar by next week. It has been on two for a while. What else is standard with the first service?
Thanks