Hyundai Sonata 2005 and earlier

pzev · August 2004

They may offer stability control but I think they won't. They'll probably take the Ford approach like they did with the Mazda6. The rest of the world gets their's from Japan but Canada and the US get their's from Michigan. Ford probably decided it wasn't worth the effort to bother with a navigation system, stability control, HID, etc. But look at the Mazda3, which do come from Japan. HID is offered and also a navigation system. Since Sonatas are coming from Alabama they may cut costs and not bother with the fancy gadgets, which they may feel there won't be enough of a demand.

Honestly I would be surprised if the price rises too much, say more than $500 or so. Honda's Alabama factory produces 300,000 with 4,300 employees where as Hyundai's factory will produce 300,000 with 2,000 employees. Also the new 4-cyl and 6-cyl engines may be cheaper to produce than the current ones. The Mazda3 engines are cheaper to produce than the previous Protege ones. I also remember reading a long time back how the Hyundai employees hired for the Alabama factory were getting paid less than most other factories, and very significantly less than the plants that are involved with unions.

On the other hand the car is a bit more upscale and steel costs more I think and probably a few other things, but I think they'll be able to keep the price in check. They may inflate the price a bit (like GM) in preparation for big rebates down the road. Just look at the new Cobalt, the MSRP pricing is a joke and you know the rebates will be big.

alpha01 · August 2004

"Just look at the new Cobalt, the MSRP pricing is a joke and you know the rebates will be big." The Cobalt is not a bargain basement car and its feature content is in-line with its pricing. The Civics, Corollas, and Mazda 3s of the world are still priced higher, and the Focus is priced similarly once the options are added and equipment levels are equalized.

Also, the Mazda 3's engines are cheaper to produce because they are shared with Fords and the Mazda 6, with economies of scale being realized in production and design.

~alpha

pzev · August 2004

If you can't see what GM and other automakers are doing I don't know what to tell you. GM MSRP pricing is a joke because you better believe the hefty rebates are already taken into account. Instead of being competitive with pricing, they simply bump it up to make up for the rebates they offer. Horsepower isn't everything and doesn't justify their prices. Of course once you get your $2,000 rebates the pricing is starting to get back in line. Plenty of experts mentioned the deletion of ABS and other things and also the SLIGHT price increases on their cars. It's so subtle no one notices. The public and no one else looks at GM MSRP pricing the same anymore. Even if Cobalt MSRP pricing is competitive the consumer wonders where GM's big rebates are. GM knows this and factors it into the price. People buying their cars without the huge rebate will take a big hit in resale value because the Cobalt will get the same big rebates. The same applies to the new Kia Spectra and just about any other low-end car.

"Also, the Mazda 3's engines are cheaper to produce because they are shared with Fords and the Mazda 6, with economies of scale being realized in production and design."

And this is what Chrysler, Mitsubishi, and Hyundai are doing, which is why they will probably be cheaper to produce. Mazda also made the assembly process more efficient and upgraded the plants producing the engines which saves money in the long run.

a_l_hubcaps · August 2004

pzev-

I don't think rebates are built into the Cobalt prices (though that is certainly true with things like the large SUVs and Impala, LeSabre, etc.) I've read a bit about the Cobalt and it seems that it will be a very expensive car to build -- much more sophisticated engineering and parts than the Cavalier. I think GM is hoping for a success right out of the gate with the Cobalt. Not sure whether they will get it though...look at the rebates they are forced to offer on the 04 Malibu now (a car that definitely did NOT have large rebates built into its MSRP!)

-Andrew L

nissan240sx · August 2004

http://autospy.intizen.com/autospy/bbs/table/spyshot/upload/4013_- autospy.jpg

ray h · August 2004

Oh, well, there's always hope for what they do for the KIA Optima version.

larry1135 · August 2004

I hope that most recent autospy link left by nissan240sx is NOT the Sonata or XG350. If it is then they have missed the mark on styling.

toyunki · August 2004

like volkswawgon phaeton.

http://www.bobaedream.com/board/data/data_view.php?code=national&- amp;No=42558&page=1&select=&content=

toyunki · August 2004

http://www.bobaedream.com/board/data/data_view.php?code=national&- amp;No=42557&page=1&select=&content=

lngtonge18 · August 2004

I think the interior is very refined and upscale looking. On par with the Accord/Camry and that is what Hyundai needs. The exterior looks nice in the above photo with the added chrome (it does remind me of the Phaeton from the front). I hope the chrome look makes it this way. The new Sonata does look more mainstream, which would be in line with Hyundai trying to expand its customer base. This car should be a hit for a Hyundai, especially if they are able to hold the prices down.

nissan240sx · September 2004

http://sonata1.hyundai-motor.com/

waxy · September 2004

My 2001 Sonata (just over 3 years old) has about 57,000 km (34,500 miles) on the odometer. Took it in yesterday to my Hyundai dealer for routine maintenance and was informed that both the front and back brakes (pads and disks) were shot and needed replacing. Well, I'm not one to compromise safety so I had the job done.

But I've been wondering - on previous cars, I'm sure the original brakes had a much longer life. Anyone else had such an experience with their Sonata?

BTW, I'm not hard on the brakes. The service guy put the problem down to rust from the salt we put on our roads in winter in Canada...

Thanks, Waxy

riez · September 2004

waxy... My '00 Sonata GLS V6 had brake rotor warping and other issues around 35,000.

Unfortunately, brake warping and other maladies appear to be more and more common across many marques. Not to mention brake dust issues.

ray h · September 2004

waxy, I think at the very least I'd have demanded that the tech show me the level of pad wear while the car was on the lift. (For whatever reason, the "inside" right front pad typically wears fastest, so that's the one to check first.) If the dealership balked at letting you have a look-see (it is your car after all! - or did the dealer buy it for you?

), I'd have driven to an independent brake shop for a 2nd opinion. Sonata disc brake pads have a tell-tale "wear sensor" spring metal tab riveted to the pad backing plate that will rub audibly on the rotor when pad wear has reached a marginally safe thickness. This is a harmless alert that the pads soon need attention. Since you didn't mention screetching noise on light brake application, it doesn't sound like yours were "singing" yet. Suspicious yahoo that I am, I'm entertaining dark thoughts that the dealership panicked you into a premature brake job solely on mileage. While Sonata brake rotors are on the small side, without mention of a pulsating pedal on brake application, I'm also suspicious about the need for new rotors (all four?). Let me gues - you were on the hook for CN$300.00+, right? However, at 34,000+ miles, you probably weren't too awfully long from at least needing front pads anyway. Hard to know whether the rear brakes were really in need of attention, though. Brake action is proportioned such that most of the braking is done by the front wheels to avoid an uncontrollable skid from the more lightly loaded rear wheels locking up first. At least you don't have to worry about it now what with Canadian fall and winter weather approaching soon, eh?

waxy · September 2004

Thanks for the info, Ray. No, there was no apparent sign (screetching, singing) to me of brake wear but, since they've always treated me fairly over the last 3 years, I took their word that the brakes were in need of replacement.

BTW, the work done on the 4 brakes totaled $800 Canadian, including taxes.

Regards, Waxy

ray h · September 2004

Ouch.

lngtonge18 · September 2004

For future reference, always request to see the brake pads and have them compare it to a new set of pads. You can usually tell from that whether you have 50% life left etc. Also, have them show you why you need new rotors. Rear rotors rarely go bad, so I doubt you needed those, and if there was no pulsation when applying the brakes and no scarring on the front rotor surface, the fronts were probably fine too. Dealers love to tell you you need new brakes because its a big money maker for them. So, in other words, I think the dealer scammed you. Just be more wary next time.

riez · September 2004

In the current, Oct '04, issue of Motor Trend they publish a letter from an Infiniti G35 owner who discusses the following:

"Due to ownership concern about the amount of brake-pad and rotor wear, Infiniti has decided to cover that wear under warranty for the first three years or 36,000 miles."

MT's long-term G35 had brake-pad and rotor resurface service at 15,571 miles.

I've seen what seem like a neverending stream of brake pad and rotor concerns across nearly every marque for well over a decade.

richiela · September 2004

Does anyone have any links to pictures of the new 2005 Hyundai Sonata now that it is officially available in the South Korean market as of September 1, 2004. For some strange reason I cannot go to the Korean Hyundai site. Very, very strange indeed.

I'd appreciate any links.

TIA

orionsky · October 2004

Long story short, bought a '93 Sonata that had been sitting awhile. We were told from seller that the transmission filter needed to be changed a few times to clean it out. We changed it twice, it ran great for short distances, but then after awhile after you would stop at a red light, it would shift into Neutral. Then you would have to rev the engine to get it to shift back into drive. It just would keep getting worse until we changed the filter again. Finally it pretty much locked up and would not shift into any drive gears. It would shift and drive into reverse. We had it towed back home. Today we changed the filter again, but it still won't go into any gear but reverse. Any ideas? I'm desperate, I can't get a mechanic out here and can't take it anywhere. Please help.

ray h · October 2004

Sounds like your trannie's pooched - a combination of prior indifferent maintenance and eleven years' wear and tear - perhaps by a driver who routinely drove the car like he thought he was Vin Diesel. (suspect that your trannie's forward ranges' friction facings are gone which is why you only have reverse now - that range is used much less frequently, so, still has sufficient friction facing material to engage) This is beyond changing the filter and fluid now. My guess is you're looking at a transmission exchange or a complete teardown, boil out of reusable parts to remove varnish deposits, new clutch discs and bands, and re-assembly. Either way, the cost may exceed the value of the car.

killerk · October 2004

Hey, guys. My 2000 GLS pkg 13 is due for 75K service. My current dealer is PARAMUS HYUNDAI
on Route 4, Paramus, NJ, but I'm not happy with them.

The following are two other dealers that are close to me:
1. HYUNDAI OF NANUET
2. GIUFFRE HYUNDAI OF WHITE PLAIN

Was wondering if anyone on this board has any comments on these two dealers. Thx

astrol · October 2004

Jeesh...a guy turns away for a year or two and see what happens?

136 pages of messages!!!...I forget what the count was when I was last here but it shouldn't take too long to catch up...yeah right.

Let me start by re-stating that I have always had brake problems with my wifes' GLS. Front Rotors, pads, etc. changed several times through the years, even early years. Dealership always treated it as non-warranty item and would not budge even though fellow forum members reported different experiences with their dealers.

After leaving the dealership behind for service after 60K Bumper to Bumper expired (I promised the wife I would take it there until then) I have used my local shop for maintenance. All major services have been done by them more cheaply and I dare say more effectively.

I long ago took to buying new rotors, pads, etc. and installing them myself. The cost is ridiculously low when compared even to the charge for turning the old ones. I highly recommend this to those handy with a wrench. Just save receipts.

We bought in July of '00 and the car now is approaching 90K. When we took it in to our local shop for the 90K service they spotted a problem with the front hub bearings...both left and right but problem worse on the right. Had that taken care of as well as a Right transmission output shaft seal and a Serpentine belt tensioner that was flakey. (S-Belt itself was changed at last service by dealer at 60K along with the timing belt and also had plug changeout and new rotors pads. That was one hell of an expensive trip to say the least...and it was the last one there.)

All in all this is still a great ride considering the mileage my wife racks up. Every time I get behind the wheel I'm reminded why I bought this thing for her. I'm trying to get this baby to 140-150K but even with the extended Drivetrain warranty from the Horsepower settlement I have to wonder. Both my wife and I have recently experienced a shudder at high speed for no reason. I suspect tranny, specifically the torque converter but I may be wrong. It could be in the tranny control module. Time will tell.

We now have a drivers door power lock that will not pop open all the way. I can see the need for a revisit to the door interior soon. But that is a small price to pay for what is otherwise a beautifully functioning car.

I'll try not to wander off for so long a time in the future. It makes catch-up a hell of an exercise.

pat · October 2004

Welcome back.

ray h · October 2004

Might wanna have a look at the tires with the car on a lift and give 'em a little spin*. I had a set of brand new tires do the shimmy-shake at speed. I had all four rebalanced six times while on vacation with no improvement whatsoever*. It turned out the tread belts had shifted in the casing! The manufacturer (Firestone) replaced 'em all at no charge, but what a vacation! (It was amazing how much smoother my transmission operated after that...)

*Six seperate tire shop whizzes who never even bothered th check the trueness of the tread as the tires spun down on the wheel balancing machine. Talk about specialist training! It took an Olds dealer in Kentucky to finally find the problem - and amazingly he would take a dime for the diagnosis (and this at 6 p.m. on a Friday night from an out-of-stater).

astrol · October 2004

Thanks Ray for the tip.

But this shudder is not constant. It is a sudden shudder in the entire car...not violent...but definitely not normal. Car is already in top gear and the car suddenly lurches a little. Only have felt it in top gear which may point to the overdrive. I am monitoring it as best I can not being the daily driver.

Wife has just started having an on-again off-again problem in the morning. Car will have traveled about 5 miles or so and then suddenly acts weird. I have not witnessed it so I can only report what the wife does her best to describe. She says the power just goes south...she watches the tach and sees the needle swing but the car doesn't respond as it should...as if there is a disconnect. This always sounds suspiciously like a possible tranny problem but that is not my initial take on it.

I taught her to find a spot to pull over and shut the car off then restart. When she does so she never has another problem for the rest of the trip. This has happened twice and so far restarting has worked everytime...which is why I think it is something in the ECM. The first time it happened after filling up the night before. Second time when the tank was 1/4 or less. The car has always been a little touchy about moisture in the gas lines and I generally use applications of fuel system cleaner and dry gas throughout the winter months to ensure smooth sailing. I've just added the first Chevron Fuel system cleaner for this Fall/Winter. I will monitor the behavior as best I can.

Thanks again.

ray h · October 2004

"But this shudder is not constant. ... Only have felt it in top gear which may point to the overdrive."

Another thought from you additional information is that you may be feeling the momentary lurch when the torque converter lockup occurs. It's usually seamless, but I have felt it on occaision in my car. Hyundai issued a TSB that it may be more frequent in >cold< weather. The reason is that TCL will not occur below a certain operating temperature that's thermostatically monitored. In cold weather, particularly at speed, the trannie may cool down to a lower temperature at which point the trannie's internal temperature monitor will siganl the TCM to unlock the torque converter from direct engagement. In turn that causes more heat to be generated to the transmission fluid since the churning of fluid inside the torque converter has a heating effect.

"Wife has just started having an on-again off-again problem in the morning. Car will have traveled about 5 miles or so and then suddenly acts weird. I have not witnessed it so I can only report what the wife does her best to describe. She says the power just goes south...she watches the tach and sees the needle swing but the car doesn't respond as it should...as if there is a disconnect. This always sounds suspiciously like a possible tranny problem but that is not my initial take on it."

Perhaps related to the above. (The torque converter unlock would result in engine speed "flaring" to some degree.) Could also signal other problems. Some Sonatas with automatic trannies have had some programming anomalies that result in 2-3 upshift flare - particularly while warming up. They can be reprogrammed with new software by the dealer. If "wifey"'s car is still under its powertrain warranty, you have enough to call the dealer's attention to it. One final thought: You noted in your initial post (since returning to the fold) that you've had your car serviced by a local shop. Has the automatic trannie been drained and replaced? The reason I ask is that many independents assume good ol' DEXRON is good for what ails ya', regardless of make. Hyundai is very specific about using ONLY Mitsubishi Diamond or Hyundai SP III as service backfill in 1996 model year and later cars. (Kia's SP III would be acceptable, too.) The bad news is that SP III ATF is proprietary and only available through Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi dealerships. I'm unaware of any recommended substitutes. If yours was serviced with DEXRON and an additive purporting to make it equivalent in performance to SP III, I'd have the trannie flushed and refilled with the real McCoy as a pre-emptive servicing. Don't even suggest to the service writer that there's a problem. I wouldn't mention to or show the dealer receipts indicating that perhaps a non-approved fluid and supplement had been installed, either. Then I'd drive it for several weeks to see if things improved. If they didn't, WARRANTY time! Someone posted not too long ago that he had to have his trannie exchanged out of warranty. $2,800.00. A hundred dollar (in my area, at least) factory juice exchange is cheap insurance against a possible warranty claim denial. I'm sure I'll take some heat from some for suggesting this tactic, and that's fine - I have tough hide. Just keep in mind you're not lying - merely playing your hand close to the vest.

dann_can · November 2004

To improve the handling of my '04 & keep my Sonata OEM, are there any parts from the Santa Fe which will help? I was told by my dealer that the Santa Fe is the same platform as the Sonata. My thoughts are to swap the sway bars out for possibly thicker ones making for a little less lateral roll. dann@ecis.com

jack7plus · November 2004

Hmmm... I'm still having a love affair with my sleek, glossy black Sonata. This one doesn't turn my head at all.

While I'm here.. just wanted to mention that there is a seller on ebay who offers chrome strips for Sonata grills. Something I have always wished this model had. I bought them and will let you know what they look like when I get them on the car.

astrol · December 2004

Hello,

Finally able to track the problems reported in my previous recent posts to a faulty crankshaft sensor. I had heard of other makes and models with this problem but was unaware (and remain so) of any inherent Hyundai susceptibility. It is one of those problems that can throw either or both engine and tranny under suspicion.

Just glad to be back on the right track and having the wife smiling again. She loves that car.

Thanks again Ray for the interest. Perhaps other high mileage Sonata owners may come across this same problem. Luckily it is not too expensive a repair.

roadpilot3 · December 2004

I had to replace the crank sensor also on 2000 gls Sonata at 60000 miles. A co worker with the same car also needed to have his replaced. Seems it happens quite often.

brotherhpj · December 2004

Good day:

Just wanted to ask if it's "normal" to need replacement of the headlight and foglights on a 2003 Sonata which I have been driving for just over a year now? (It was a leftover). I've replaced the Philips OEM bulbs with Sylvania hoping they will last a little longer. At almost $20 a pop for these bulbs it getting a little expensive.

ray h · December 2004

Well I'm still on the originals on my Sonata. I bought it new in December 2002, so, almost two years on 'em. I trust you, or whoever did the actual replacement chores, took caution NOT to touch the fused quartz "glass". Skin oils will drastically shorten their life because of uneven heating of the quartz envelope. In my opinion Philips knows as much about light bulb design and manufacture as Sylvania.

astrol · December 2004

I've replaced 3 on my wife's '00 GLS...always the standard beam, so far two on the right, one on the left. First one went right around 1 year mark and others a good bit later. Luckily the High beam bulb is the same so it's an easy and quick temporary fix to switch the location until fitting a replacement bulb.

Have to agree with Ray...be careful how you handle them.

riez · December 2004

If I remember right, left front burned out after about 2 years/36,000 miles and the right front burned out this past summer at about 55,000 miles. Bought my '00 new in May of 2000, though she was an early build '00, produced in August of 1999. (Thinking I replaced the battery earlier this year, around 50,000 miles.)

lngtonge18 · December 2004

Just thought I would let you know that the headlights are covered under the bumper-to-bumper warranty. The dealer will replace them free of charge, but not the foglights. I believe stoplights are also covered. So next time one goes out, take it to the dealer rather then pay out of pocket unless its an emergency.

ray h · December 2004

You've got a very cooperative dealer, Intonge18. My Hyundai Sonata warranty supplement booklet specifically excludes light bulbs.

riez · December 2004

My dealer charged me for the first one but then said the warranty covered the second one. Go figure.

beach15 · December 2004

Here's some of a new Sonata testing on the street sans camo:

http://www.cheersandgears.com/elantra_5.jpg

http://www.cheersandgears.com/elantra_4.jpg

http://www.cheersandgears.com/elantra_3.jpg

http://www.cheersandgears.com/elantra_2.jpg

http://www.cheersandgears.com/elantra_1.jpg

http://www.cheersandgears.com/elantra_6.jpg

Looks pretty good, I guess, but I haven't formed a strong opinion on it yet.

lngtonge18 · December 2004

Interesting.....Elantra forum members reported their headlights were covered under warranty. I mean it would make sense since they are between the bumpers, needed for safety, and shouldn't go out before the warranty is up. But hey, I can't argue with your extra booklet

Maybe some dealers are just nicer then others. You might try to bluff your dealer the next time one goes out and see what they say.

ray h · December 2004

Good advice. But, at two days shy of two years, I'm still on my original bulbs...

simplesins · December 2004

I've got a 2004 Hyundai Sonata and I would like to put in the

1. Pioneer AVIC-N1 or

2. Eclipse AVN2454 or

3. Alpine TME-M770 OR TME-M580

navigation system. As near as I can tell, once you've got your directions plotted, you can play CDs without losing your directions stored in memory. Does anyone have any experience with this system or problems with using aftermarket products? Does anyone have any other specific preferences as far as in-dash navigation systems? As a followup question, I've seen the Pioneers for sale at some of the on-line auction sites. If I were to go that route, how much could I anticipate spending on installation given the complexities of hooking it up? Thanks in advance!!

casd · December 2004

Just wondering if everyone checked out both before buying or what.. Consumer Reports rates the Sonata higher then the XG350L.

Also I was thinking about a New Malibu Maxx but I checked the forum and it totally scared me out of that idea..

casd · December 2004

Why do the Hyundai's have high emissions rating.. almost triples every other new car out there ?..

lngtonge18 · December 2004

Triple the emissions? What numbers are you comparing? The Sonata is not ULEV rated like the Accord but it is LEV rated like many other cars out there (including my mom's much more expensive Acura TSX). LEV is nothing to sneeze at. We are talking about a minor overall difference between LEV and ULEV. Hyundai is still catching up in the emissions game, but this is to be expected since Honda has been working on this problem for more then 20 years. However, Hyundai is by no means much worse then all other cars out there.

I'm curious though. I seriously considered the Malibu Maxx and have been reading the forum from the beginning. I have seen only a few problems. Overall, the Maxx appears to be a solid reliable car so far and the owners are loving them. How did that forum scare you? If you really like the Maxx, I would go to the forum and post a question and see for yourself that problems have been few and far between.

becky5 · December 2004

Purchased a new, '05 Sonata GLS five weeks ago and have thoroughly enjoyed the car until a VERY SCARY incident, yesterday, with an engine stall.

While driving on a busy, 6-lane highway, I slowed to about 20 mph in a left turn lane to make a U-turn onto the opposite 3-lane side of the road. With no on-coming traffic, I didn't need to stop before making the turn. In the middle of the turn, as I'm steering the vehicle into the farthest outside lane, the engine suddenly and completely shut off and the vehicle coasted until I applied the brakes and the car stopped in the far lane (no shoulder available).

With flashers on and fast approaching traffic about 30 seconds away, I frantically tried to re-start the engine. Only after several tries of shifting to Park then Neutral and back to Park AND turning the steering wheel back and forth, did the engine finally start.

In 35 years of driving Buicks, Fords, Geo Metro, AND a '03 Hyundai Elantra, I've never experienced a problem like this. This time I 'lucked out' in reviving the engine with only seconds to spare. But, I'm afraid that a future, similar incident could result a horrible car accident.

BEFORE I contact the dealer service dept., I would like to be more informed (in the event I encounter: 'Can't figure out what happened', 'Never heard of this type of problem with the Sonata', or the absolute lamest 'Must be the way you drive the car that caused the engine stall.'

I greatly appreciate feedback from anyone who's either experienced this problem and/or would be knowledgeable about the cause, particularly with the Hyundai Sonata. PLEASE ADVISE SOON...my confidence has plummeted in regards to taking this car back out on the road again.

Thank you, in advance, for your help,

Becky

ray h · December 2004

Now THAT'S scary! Were there any CEL (Check Engine Light) episodes before or since the engine mysteriously died? If so, the dealer will be able to read the fault codes stored in the engine management computer. Without any fault codes, the task of diagnosing what happened will be a lot tougher - even for expert Hyundai techs. Regardless, take the car in and insist that a service invoice be written up (don't leave without your copy!) so that if they're unable to resolve the issue, the problem is properly documented in case you have to go to the next level - either through Hyundai directly or arbitration. This is not merely an inconvenience. It's a safety issue of the first order.

becky5 · January 2005

Thank you so very much for your knowledgable advice and taking the time to respond.

I'm not aware of any CEL episodes prior or since. When the incident took place, the car had been parked at a shopping center for approximately 30 minutes. After starting the vehicle, I drove for about one minute before slowing to make the U-turn.

I'll follow your recommendations, immediately. I had just started to read over the owners manual when the stalling event occurred. Your information about the stored fault codes was most important. Though I'm aware that almost all new vehicles have engine computers, I did not realize they had fault code components. My previous vehicle was a '94 Geo Metro (the car with the sewing machine engine), and engine/computer sophisticated it was not, though in 10 years it was a great little car and had no problems what so ever. I'm just now driving and learning about vehicles possessing more up-to-date technology.

The paradox of all this for me is that I bought the Sonata when my Geo died, and how did it expire? While driving down the inside lane of the Florida turnpike at 65 mph in rush hour traffic, the engine completely stopped - JUST LIKE MY NEW SONATA! While the car was coasting, I immediately steered the Geo in between other cars until I reached the outside lane and pulled off onto the shoulder. This all happened in a matter of heart stopping seconds and despite my quick reponse, I'm confident it was by divine intervention that I didn't end up as road kill. The culprit was the timing chain, but unlike the Sonata, the did not recover.

I will not wait for the third strike. I'll update you with the Sonata diagnosis.

My thanks once again,

Becky

307web · January 2005

Too bad about this issue in 2005 Sonatas. I hoped the new Sonata would be reliable, but if they have this stalling problem, that's extremely dangerous.

If this is a common problem, they will all need to be recalled.

astrol · January 2005

Hello Becky05,

The previous model had a similar affliction but that was due to the MAF sensor and it's location in the engine bay. My wife's '00 GLS has done the sudden stall routine several times in her years of ownership. Supposedly re-routing the cable harness to the sensor fixed the problem but she has continued to experience sporadic stalling since the recall. Once, it happened on a turn and she hit the curb when she lost the power steering...not good. Seems to happen throughout it's history more when the air is very moist if not raining outright.

I solve any episodes from recurring by applying a massive amount of Dialectric grease to the electrical contacts to the sensor and then replugging. Seems to work for a longer time the more generous you are with the grease. You or your Hubby can find it at any Auto parts store but as your car is so new I'm sure you will be demanding that the dealership fix this problem for good. This is most likely what they will do to fix it.

I suggest you report this to the NHTSA website and go on record. I cannot fathom how such a dangerous problem could still be lingering in these cars. IMHO no simple electrical component connection should be so vital that entire engine shutdown occurs if the signal is lost for even a millisecond in a running engine. That is just stupid engineering. There should be much greater tolerances built into the programming and functioning of these engine management systems.

Good Luck solving your problem.

Hyundai Sonata 2005 and earlier

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