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Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks



  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    If the airbag light is on, it more than likely means there is a malfunction in the airbag system that will keep it from working in the event of an accident. Don't know how important it is to you to not have the airbags operational, but you can either live with the light and have no airbags or get it fixed. It probably has a sensor that is not working. It could be expensive to fix the problem, so take that into consideration when haggling over the price. $2400 doesn't sound too bad considering it is low mileage, but I might try to get it down to $2200 since the airbags aren't working. The only possible problem with the 95 Accent I am aware of is automatic transmission longevity issues. Otherwise, no big problems with that year. The engine is a solid performer as shown by the fact it is still being used today with almost no changes and no recalls. Hope this helps.
  • Lngtonge18, I believe it was you who mentioned a while back about having a rattle in your rear window brake light. Did you ever fix it, and if so, how? Does anyone else have this problem, and/or a solution? I pried open the plastic attachment area cover and fiddled around with adjusting it as much as I could, but I just can't tell where it is making contact. Bobcook, have other Accent owners had this complaint at your dealership? I know this is such a small thing, and not something I think a dealer should be troubled with nor have to fix, but it is driving me a little crazy. Any help would be appreciated.
  • Perry mentioned your parcel shelf rattles. I thought the same. Found out it was actually the rear hatch. The dealer fixed the 'alignment' on the 'wedges' on the back hatch in about 10 minutes and presto, no more rattle from the back.
  • Hey sfarkas2 ... Thanks! I'll have the Dealer check it out when I bring the car for it's first service check in May.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    My parcel shelf also rattles, but I'm sure it is that and not the hatch itself. I can actually visibly see the parcel shelf move up and down when you hit sharp bumps and that sometimes causes a banging rattling noise. It is not anchored down on one side and the rubber bump stops are thin. The only way to fix it is to probably add thicker or more numerous bump stops to keep it from banging so loudly against the speaker enclosures. As for the brake light, the dealer claimed they tightened it but it felt just as loose as it did when I took it in. It continued to periodically make a rubbing/squeaking noise. I stuffed a small folded piece of paper towel between the glass and the plastic nub that rests on the glass. That got rid of the squeak for the most part. The overall assembly is still a bit loose and creaky, but I chuck that to poor design. At least it doesn't bug me anymore. The only noise I hear back there now is the parcel shelf.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I just replaced my wipers with Bosch Micro-Edge. What a huge difference!! The old wipers weren't even a year old, but they have been making an annoyingly loud rubbing/squeaking sound ever since I bought the car and they never seemed to wipe the windshield very well. The new ones are completely quiet and clear the windshield way better. They must put some real cheap rubber on the original equipment wipers. It will be so nice not to have to listen to that loud squeak everytime it rains :)
  • Intone 18, what you describe from the rattle in the parcel shelf is exactly what happened to me. I fitted and farted around trying to figure out how to secure the parcel shelf. I too, could see the shelf moving in the rear view mirror in unison with the rattling noise. It had to be the shelf. One day, after loading my hockey gear into the back, thereby causing the shelf to become unseated, I noticed the rattling noise when going over sharp bumps. So it couldn't have been the shelf and in fact it was the hatch. Try this, take the shelf off and try those hard bumps, if you still have the rattle, then it can't be the shelf, my money is still on the hatch. The dealer didn't even have to contemplate my complaint for more than 50 milliseconds before he knew what the problem was.. conclude from this quick thinking that this must be a very common occurence...good luck
  • Here's a puzzler ... lately I've been comparing my wife's 99 Accent 4dr Automatic with my 01 Accent 2dr Automatic. When driving the 99, I've noticed that when taking foot off the gas in preparation to brake or coast, the engine RPM's decrease slowly as vehicle speed decreases, finally idling at approx. 750 RPM with the car at rest and tranny in Drive ... this seems normal to me. My 01 Accent however in the same or similar situation does not behave the same way ... when letting off the gas, the engine RPM's drop suddenly to approx. 1100 - 1000 RPM while vehicle speed slowly drops, finally idling at approx 750 RPM with the car at rest. Is this normal? Even if I take my foot off the gas at 80kph say, the RPM's still drop to around 1100?? Might there be something wrong with the automatic tranny? This really seems a little weird to me?
  • Torque converters are that wonderful fluid-driven clutch that makes automatic transmissions so automatic. Each torque converter for each different car's transmission is made slightly differently. Some cars have a torque converter that allows a lot of slippage, these are called "high-stall" converters. They keep the engine running faster on acceleration and deceleration to improve performance. Those with little slippage have a low stall speed. Stall speeds are measured in engine RPM's, this is the fastest speed you can run the engine with the transmission in gear and the drive wheels locked. The engine will not accelerate above this speed until either the transmission is taken out of gear or the wheels can rotate. So if you hold your left foot on the brake and the right foot on the gas, you'll find your stall speed. Don't do this for too long, it'll burn up your transmission. This is another reason why you should use the brake to hold a car on a hill as opposed to the gas. Before I go running away, I'll also say that the "lockup" torque converters do the same thing as a regular converter, but with the lockup feature is engaged, the torque converter makes a physical connection, allowing little or no slippage, improving fuel economy. Your '99 probably has a different stall speed from your '01. Probably because your '01 has the 1.6 engine? I think the 1.6 engine gets a different set of gears than the 1.5. I'd have to see the specs to be sure.
  • now that I'm done pretending to be a high school auto mechanics teahcer...

    I am considering the purchase of a 1998 Accent L hatchback. It's $2850, has 80K on it, and the air still works. The reasons it is so cheap are...a)people here HATE Hyundais...b)it is a standard and people here are LAZY...c)it pops out of 4th gear if you take your hand off the shifter. Reverse, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 5th are fine. I am assuming this is a synchro problem and wondered if anyone else has had trouble with the Accent 5-speeds, if they ever needed taking apart for popping out of gear, how much it cost, etc...thanks!
  • Thanks occupant1 ... hope you're right about the situation with my 01 Accent being "normal" ... the 01 has a 1.5l SOHC engine and my wife's 99 the same I believe ... I'll check today after I shovel yet another snowstorm's worth of white stuff out of my driveway!
  • okie53okie53 Posts: 10
    I've had my 2001 Accent for 3 months and just passed 10,000 miles (I commute to work). I'm absolutely delighted with the car. Did get a little wind noise around the driver's window; took it back to the dealer and they replaced the seal. The 1.5 engine has loosened up quite a bit and is surprisingly peppy. I am getting around 38mpg on the highway (70-75mph) and over 42mpg if I am not so lead footed (55mph). I am using Mobil1, hopefully I can get 150K out of the engine; I am looking forward to buying another Accent in '05.

  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    My hatch does indeed rattle. I will try to adjust the rubber bump stops this weekend and see if I can alleviate the problem myself. That will save a trip to the dealer for a simple 10 minute fix. I will let you guys know what I do and how well it works.
  • Thanx man ... the rattling hatch on my 01 Accent is driving me nuts ... and I don't want to make a special trip to the dealer. BTW check out post #390 Re; engine RPM's ... I'd like to hear your take on that if ya don't mind? Ciao!
  • I was wondering if anyone who owns an Accent has had a similar problem with there cars as I have. I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent GL, auto. I am taking the car in for its 3rd trip to the dealer concerning a strange problem with the transmission. Basically, when the vehicle is driven on say a long road trip at a steady speed the transmission makes a horrible thump and a sort of low-pitch sreach in the engine bay when I press on the accelerator to make the car down shift to pass another vehicle. The first time I took it in the dealer told me that it is normal and that all Accents do this and its just a design flaw. Then I took it to another Hyundai dealer and they told me that they couldn't duplicate the problem. Now I have an appointment to take it in for this, a vibration in the steering wheel at 70mph, a pulsating brake pedal,a drivers seat that makes a clicking sound in turns, and a glove box that is misaligned. Don't get me wrong I love my Accent and all these problems have just been mounting up and I haven't had a chance to take it in. My car only has 8200 miles on it and it seems strange to have all these things to take it in for. If anyone could let me know about the transmission thing that would be helpful. I suppose Hyundai's slogan is not a lie...."DRIVING IS BELIEVING"...that you got less quality than a Honda or Toyota.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I adjusted the rubber bump stops and my short-term analysis is that it worked. I went over sharp ripples in the pavement at 50 mph that used to cause a slight audible shudder from the rear and this time, there was no sound. It seemed to be just as solid as a brand new car. Here's what I did: Look for the large rubber block right above each tailight assembly. 2 phillips head screws hold it in place. Remove the screws and pull off the bump stop. Install either one thick washer per hole or a few thinner ones per hole underneath the bump stop. Than reinstall the bump stop and the screws. Your done! The washers push the bump stop higher up so that it pushes more firmly against the upper hard plastic bump stop. This tighter fit forces the hatch to close tighter and thereby reduces the chances for audible rattles from hatch flex. You may have to trial and error the washer thickness based on how much slack you need to take up. Hope this helps all that are having hatch rattles.
    On a side note, I also decided to try some insulation as a way of reducing interior noise levels at high speed. The front of the car is very quiet considering how inexpensive the car is, but hatchbacks are known for their greater noise penetration from the rear. I can attest to this as I lowered the rear seat while travelling at 80 mph (I was the passenger, LOL). The amount of road noise coming from the rear tires was quite amazing. The seat is able to block some of it, but it still can't provide the same isolation as an enclosed truck. The spare tire compartment is the thinnest layer of metal between the interior and the road. Because this compartment is enclosed inside the whole interior, it is the greatest cause of road noise penetration in a hatchback. As such, I decided to add a layer of Thinsulate insulation underneath the rear carpet and above the spare. I bent the layer in half so I could get double protection. So far, it seems to have lowered noise levels considerably. The rear speakers don't seem as drowned out by road noise as they were before. I think its a worthwhile addition for any hatchback, but especially for the L model as it only has a cheap thin layer of carpeting between the spare and the interior. Just thought someone might be interested in my findings.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I can't say for sure whether your auto tranny is behaving normally or not. I have only driven one automatic equipped car that also had a tachometer so I'm not very knowledgeable in this area. From what I remember, when I lifted off the gas of my 93 Mitsu Diamante, its rpms would drop down to 1200 or so immediately as long as the overdrive was on. If the overdrive was off, I think it would provide some engine braking and allow the rpms to stay ellevated. Other than that, I can't really say if what you are describing is normal. I personally think its sounds right.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    The tranny problem you describe does not sound right. The other problems aren't that big of a deal and occur in all cars, not just Hyundai. Wheel vibration at 70 generally means an out of balance tire, which is common on low-grade tires, or a bent wheel. The pulsating brake pedal is probably either a warped rotor or a bent wheel. Warped rotors are a common problem on all cars, including Honda and Toyota. A clicking driver's seat is hardly a concern, nor is a misaligned glovebox. I believe many 2000 Accents had the glovebox problem. Mine has it as well. I learned to live with it, keeping in mind that this is an inexpensive car. Someone I know bought a 2001 Acura CL and had to take it back after only 100 miles because it had a pull to the right. The dealer claimed it was normal but he pushed them to check its alignment. It turns out it was off slightly and they adjusted it. So if a 30 grand Acura has a problem right off the start, consider your small roster of minor annoyances after 8200 miles normal. The only real big concern is your transmission. Take them for a test drive and show them the sound yourself! That way they can't claim the sound is not reproducable. By the way, 2000 Accord V-6s were recalled due to a terrible thump from the transmission. So don't think Honda is immune from the same type of problems. I personally feel I got just as much quality as I would have from Honda or Toyota and for a much cheaper price to boot. Hope you get your problems taken care of.
  • My boyfriend has a 2000 Accent and has been having nothing but problems with it. He is getting ready to take his car in for a third time in five months/5800 miles. The second time he took it in, they had to completely replace the transmission. We were out last night and the transmission started doing what it did last time, so he is taking it in again. What happens is when you accelerate, the RPM increases, but the speed does not. Has anyone else had this kind of transmission problems? If he has to take it in once more during the first year for the transmission, he's got a "lemon." It's just frustrating! I've owned Mazdas, Toyotas, and now an Oldsmobile without any serious problems, especially when it was new! I have had a 1998 Oldsmobile LSS for a little over a year now and have not had one problem with it, so I am starting to question the quality of Hyundai.
  • I know this is kind of stupid, but I have been following this board for a while now, and does it bother anyone else that the word Hyundai is spelled wrong in the topic title? Maybe we should all just drop this dead weight of old news and bad memories (as of late) and start a brand new thread - "Hyundai Accent 2"! We'd really be in the big league then, eh? Or maybe we should all just get together and start a new life . . . under the sea.

    (I'm sorry, I am just bored and this is my lame attempt at humor. I am actually supposed to be working, so I better go.)

    Just remember:

    "There'll be no accusations!
    Just friendly crustaceans,
    Under the Seeeeeeeeeaaaaaaa!"
    Homer Simpson
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