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In addition, if you're simply dealing with a service advisor at this point, I'd like to suggest that you call back and ask to speak directly to someone higher up (i.e. service manager) to get more specific answers. It does seem unusual that they would not cover the diagnostics on a problem that is under warranty.
At the very least, you may want to bring your car to (or call) another dealership... especially if you've had problems with this particular dealer in the past. Good luck and please keep us posted.
PocahontasHostHatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
In addition to the Edmunds oil and synthetic oil threads, here's a fairly interesting oil site by someone who looks like he's an oil expert:
http://pub27.bravenet.com/forum/show.php?usernum=2240725418The host is a big believer in 10-30 synthetic, especially Mobil 1. I've usually used the Wal-Mart house brand myself, which is actually Quaker State dino oil. I try to stay away from Fram filters at all costs, although Wal-Mart usually slips on a Fram filter rather than their house brand--- which is rebranded Champion Labs and far superior, without the cardboard components that Fram is burdened with. My feeling is that the engine, with regular oil changes, will usually hang together in a modern car--even with dino oil-- until long after the rest of the car is ready for the scrap heap. This does not apply to my Dodge Caravan, however, whose valve guides are smoking at the 100,000 mile mark-- curse of the 3 liter Misubishi engine. Hopefully Hyundai's in-house engines don't suffer from that malady. I think all of the Mitsubishi influences are long gone.
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