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change the engine completely turned off. It was like I ran out of fuel all
of a sudden. So I started the engine again and it started as if there was no
problems. All the warning lights went out and there seemed to be nothing
wrong with it. As I was continuing to drive I noticed the tacho needle to
suddenly rise to 1500 rpm and then dramatically drop below 500 rpm after soon
returning just below 750rpm. This only occurred when the vehicle was
stationary. It also sputters along at this event until you get it to 40-50. Then there is no problems. On other days it drives fine. It is intermittant. Seems to be happening more frequestly. The vehicle is a four speed automatic if that is of any
assistance. Can anyone tell me what the hell is going on with my engine? Any
help will be greatly appreciated.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
RE
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Thanks!
My Outback has one redeeming quality: it is simply phenomenal in the snow. Other than that, though, it's been nothing short of a series of niggling problems punctuated by major, expensive hassles. I keep mine because I fix it myself (and have more $$ into than I could ever get back by selling), but I spend more time under the hood on that car than I do on all my other cars combined. I have a 4Runner of the same vintage and mileage (140K) that has required nothing more than routine maintenance and runs as well as the day I bought it. Not so for the Subie.
I'd trade it in for a RAV4 and have a trouble free blast.
No vehicle is perfect.
PS I own a Subaru and a Toyota, before anyone screams bias.
As for reliability?
I have a 1994 Legacy Turbo w/150k original miles on it, the last 25k miles have been on track being pushed to it's limit at or near redline the whole time. Routine maintenance is all we've done....
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Alland
Thanks for your thoughts and information on your car.
Boxer engines are sensitive to oil over-fills; if that happened at any point then there is a chance that one or more seals/gaskets could be developing a leak.
"Sunday Feb 24th we're having a free Child Seat inspection from 10am-2pm. There will be experts here to make sure that the child seat is properly fit in your car. It's from 10-2 and food will be served (!), and it's First Come, First Served so arriving early is a good idea!! It's in our Quick Service building next door and there will lots of room for you and kids."
I will not vouch for the grammar, but there you have it nonetheless.
Have a great weekend, folks!
-Wes-
I'm thinking about buying a Legacy or a Forester 1998-2000 less than 80,000 miles, I have several options in my areas, but suddenly I'm hearing head gaskets rumors. Are those serious?
What else should I been concerned with these two cars. I know anything can go wrong with used cars, I'm talking about problems specific to those two models
Thanks
Phil
Bob
Phil
If the seal is bad, it will likely fail that test.
FYI, < 1,000 miles on my ride and car is currently at the dealership having a bad bearing replaced.
Hope that helps.
Matt
-mike
Our 626 had a torn boot and leaked grease. It made a mess. The wheel, the wheel well, and eventually even an oxygen sensor were damaged.
I need help with my odometer on my car. I had to change the whole dash out because the speedometer died. Now the mileage on the car say 113,000, but there is actually 140,000. Is there anyway to raise the mileage on the speedometer to make say the right amount of miles?
In my state you can do to the DMV and basically fill out a form that states the true mileage. Look into that, perhaps.
It just passed vehicle inspection, at a shop I know, so hopefully the safety stuff is good.
I want to bring it up to a known state of maintenance as I plan on keeping it a long time. So far I've changed the plugs, wires, oil, fuel filter, air filter, changed a couple of vacuum hoses, cleaned the MAF sensor, have new fan belts ready to go on, and adjusted the air pressure in the tires.
It's going in the shop next week to have the auto transmission serviced. After that, I may have them change the timing belt. I think the A/C is still running on R12?
Are there other things I should do, or check, on a Subaru with this age and mileage? Helpful hints on things to watch out for would be appreciated. Jim
-mike
I'm almost afraid to ask the shop how much it would cost to do a timing belt. I know a lot is based on labor rates, but do you have an idea of a ballpark cost, and does Subaru recommend you change the water pump and/or seals at the same time? Jim
-mike
One thing you want to know about Subaru is that they offer a credit card which applies 3% of your credit card purchases to maintenance at a dealer, as well as purchases and leases of new cars or CPO cars. Reportedly, some dealers will let you apply the vouchers to tire purchases also. The limit is $500 yearly and each $100 voucher is good for 4 years. By the time my 5-year service is due in June, I should have enough vouchers to cover the entire (major) maintenance expense. This is the link: link title
We've used $400 already, and saved up another $1600, which we will use to buy a Forester soon.
Basically we hit the $500 cap for each of the 4 years we've had it. My wife uses the card for business expenses, most of them reimbursed, so it's like free money! Woot! :shades:
I live in Ft. Lauderdale where you don't see many Subarus. When I was in Ashville, NC about 1/3 of every car on the road was not only a subaru OUTBACK, it was the same color as mine. Quite an unusual experience. Wondered if I should try to sell it up there...and how having never sold one by myself OR out of state. Is it worth it?
Car is in excellant shape. Brand new Kuhmo tires, leather, 10 spker upgraded wonderful radio,ONLY 19,000 miles. I would supply any records. so, ...
what are your best results in selling online; which sites etc.?
Check the axle boots for cracks or tears and replace them ASAP to prevent CV joint damage.
If the inspection didn't include it, check the rubber brake lines for cracks or bulges and replace as needed, and in any case bleed the old fluid out of the brake system. If you have the timing belt done have them do the water pump at the same time (which will also get you new coolant).
-Steve
Can't hurt to try, I suppose.
If you sell it in Florida, put something like "Great traction in the rain" in the ad.
I have a problem. The headlights won't work on my outback, but the high-beams do. All fuses are good, haven't tried replacing the headlight relays yet, but I don't really know if that's the problem.
The switch is on for the lights, running lights go on, fog lights go on, and the high beams work, but the regular headlights won't come on. I don't get anything from jiggling the switch or moving wires around by the fuse box either...
Please help, I'm very confused, and I really don't want to drive at night without headlights (otherwise I'll be blinding everyone with the brights).
Thanks!
--Josh
Seemed strange that they both went out at once, if that's the case... They're relatively new. About 3 -5 months old... But, I think it happened around the time that I was checking fuses to make sure nothing was blown out, so maybe I messed something up doing that causing them both to blow out or something...
Anyway, I'll try new bulbs and see if that does it. I really hope that's all it is.
It's common for both sides to go at roughly the same time. I had a set that blew within a week of each other after 8 years or so.
Have you ever noticed how many cars are driving around with only one operational light? In general, one headlight gives enough light to drive by, and it is often difficult to tell (from the inside of the car) that a light has burned out. So you drive around unaware of the problem until the second one burns out. It is difficult to miss that event.
If both lights did burn out simultaneously, it is probably due to a larger electrical issue.
Are you aware that the Outback has a third pair of light (fog lights mounted down low)? I almost never use them, but they can be called into service to act as low-beams. They only work when you are using the low-beams
DB