Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

toydriver

I am shopping for a new van. I am considering the MPV, Sienna, Grand Caravan. Can't find a new Odyssey. (Have had great luck with Avalon and Celica reliability and would normally lean toward Sienna except for it's considerably higher price.) I was very impressed with MPV's 2nd and 3rd row seats and sportier look at a local auto show. I recently returned a leased Windstar with transmission problems and I don't want to repeat the experience. Should I be concerned about the reliability of the MPV engine? Is it a Ford? This van will be used for mostly city/expressway driving and rarely long highway trips. (20,000 mi/yr average). I usually keep cars for 150,000 mi. or so.

Anyone with experience with both the Dodge/Chrysler van and the MPV have a preference? Or should I save my money and buy Toyota?

stevecanuck

People on this forum could give you a bit more feedback if you let us know what you would put in the van. If it's mostly kids with some cargo, the MPV is a fine vehicle. If you are moving construction material(sheets of plywood/drywall), it won't do the job given the reduced cargo space.

That being said, if you plan to keep the vehicle to 150,000 mi, don't look at the Dodge/Chrysler product. The best that can be said is that it is almost biodegradable and it could be put in you Blue Box as the van falls apart.

The Mazda has a Ford Duratec engine, probably the best one Ford makes. The Toyota has a good engine also. Some people have issues with the Mazda's horsepower, I have one and find it OK. The Toyota has a bit more pep, but a bit more weight.

If you are new to minivan's, you'll like the MPV. Visibility and handling is more car-like than the Toyota.

Bottom line is, test drive the heck out of both the Toyota and the MPV under your usual driving routes and make the call. Avoid the Chrysler like the plague unless you plan on trading it in at 60,ooo miles, in which case it isn't a bad deal.

toydriver

Thank you stevecanuck for your thoughts and being frank about the Chrysler reliability. I think the size of the MPV and Sienna will be ok for our needs. (Carpool kids to school, family of 4 + pets transportation, hauling landscaping plants, no major constructions plans). From your comments, I assume a 4x8 sheet of plywood won't fit in the MPV? My wife drove a Windstar for several yrs, but it's cargo space was more than we needed and the transmission failing at 40k was LESS than we needed! The MPV's 170 hp should be ok, since we were use to less in the Windstar 3.0L. Edmunds says the MPV transmission is the same as the 626. Does that mean a Mazda or Ford tranny? Confusing these days. I assume reliability of the 626 transmission has been good?, but I have no Mazda experience. How smoothly does the MPV shift after the break-in? How long has Ford made the Duratec V6 engine?

stevecanuck

The engine is Ford, shipped from the USA to Japan, then back in the van. The tranny is pure Mazda. The old MPV had a mixed history with the tranny, but it isn't the one that is in the 2000 MPV. The 626 tranny seems pretty good from all reports. I went with the 4 seasons/towing package, so my MPV has a transmission cooler, plus a heavy duty rad. It should last a nice long time with that in place.

A 4X8 sheet won't fit in the MPV, I can't comment on the fit in the Toyota. The one complaint I have on the MPV for cargo space is that with two very small children, by the time I load luggage, toys, bikes, extra diapers, etc for a weekend trip, I've had to fold down the back seat. This makes it difficult to take any extra guests. I can fix it with a bike rack, but I guess I didn't know how much stuff the kids actually would take on a trip if they could.

stevecanuck

BTW, there is a Sienna v. MPV conference at
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/engaged/edmund.cgi?c=Vans&t=846

msgjvh

If I had to take everything my kids wanted to take on a trip I would be better off with a Ryder Truck! I would highly suggest a bike rack and better yet something that did not "Strap" to the vehicle. The in laws (ECCCCCKKK) did that to their Voyager and dented the back door. Of course, it was somehow my fault. Thank god, that vehicle was rear-ended and its not a topic of "discussion" any more.

The one thing I do find is that kids consistently like the van. We had to stuff four stranded teenage boys in the MPV yesterday. By the time they were being dropped off they were all wanting an MPV. Imagine that, I wanted (and still do) a red '63 Split Window Corvette.

Well gotta go! I need a Queen Fix. Ohh btw, 3rd eye blinds Jumper is a pretty kewl song in the MPV also.


MSGJVH

thekondos

I was wondering myself how similar the 626 tranny is to the MPV's. My hubby wanted to invest in a 98 626 but after reading the posts out here we decided against it. Seems that the 96's have tranny problems and even a 98. I met someone the other day who has the exact model my hubby wanted and I jokingly said, "Let me guess, you've had tranny problems." She said YES!! Replaced before 50K, but other than that she loves the car. Man oh man, I hope the MPV is pure Japan and not Ford. It seems that since the 626's started using the Ford trannys the problems started!!!

dlncmay

I would agree with Stevecanuck's assessment. If you want a 150,000 mile van, stay away from the DC vans. If you don't mind the bland styling (IMHO) and the higher price, you can't beat the Sienna. We have owned an MPV LX w/ the Security Pkg, rear a/c, and 4 seasons pkg since early May. We have two children (5 & 2). My wife loves the van for around town driving. In addition, we took the van on a 2,800 mile vacation in June. It was wonderful. We are out of town at least 1/3 of all weekends. My parents are about three hours away and my wife's parents are about 2 hours away. Ahhh, the grandparents love to see the wee ones!!! The MPV handles these weekend trips with no problems, plus the extra space (compared to a midsize sedan) is wonderful for transporting the parents with us once we arrive at their houses. The fit/finish is top notch. Handling is superb, for a minivan. MPGs is a bit low and tranny a bit busy, otherwise performance is fine.

Take care.

mykidsdriver

We've also had very good luck with Toyotas and the only vans we seriously considered were Sienna and MPV. I don't think either would have been a "mistake." Another Chrysler (which is what we traded) would have been, in my opinion. We tend to drive our cars a long time and put lots of miles on them. We do maintain them properly, but with my Caravan, that didn't seem to make much difference (meaning I can't imagine more problems if we'd never done a thing). We had major repairs and I traded it just after one of them, as intermittent symptoms of a new one began to appear.
For me, the difference in the 2 cars came down to visibility. I really felt I could see better out of the MPV, so it was a better car for ME. But some would suggest that the additional power and the Toyota reputation make the Sienna a better choice. To each, his own. (Both have smaller footprints and are thus more maneuverable than the ever-expanding "mini"vans made by competitors.) It seems to fit our family (kids 6 and 8) just fine. And has room for friends and sports equipment.

rdent2

OK, my MPV ES has 2,000 miles and that darn pull to the left. I have taken it in to the dealer four times. They have aligned it every time, and now they have tried every possible tire combination of the existing tires. Got it back from the dealer today, he said it was now fine.

But we still have the pull. Any advice on what to do next?

tboner1965

It will cost you about $0.18 and 10 minutes time.
You need a drill and a copper plumbing end cap (Lowes Sales# 21728) Drill a 7/32" hole in the end of the copper cap and remove the burrs and shavings that might be hanging around. Now you need to find the large rubber hose between the air filter and the throttle body. From that hose, there should be a hose that is about 3/4" to 1" that attaches to the back of the intake manifold. At the manifold end, the hose is held in place by a spring clamp. Release the clamp and remove the hose from the manifold. Put the copper cap in the hose, with the cap end with the hole, going in first. This will allow you to retrive the cap if you want to put another one in there with a different diameter hole. Reattach the hose to the manifold and you are done.

My idle went from around 1800 RPM's at the first start to around 1100 RPMS's with A/C running. When I put it in gear, it dropped to about 700.

You may need to experiment with different diameter holes depending you your climate. For example, you may need a slightly larger hole for those cold winter mornings, otherwise the engine may stall before it is warmed up.

If this works, you will see a picture from the Contour Enthusiasts Group where I learned this tip. The EGR valve looks different on the Contour, but if you've followed along so far, you probably know what I'm talking about.



TB

javadoc

What's this a fix for, just idle, or somehting else? It looks like a really cool trick. My guess is you're tricking the vacuum for the idle, right?

Thx!

--javadoc

tboner1965

fix, but that is not an issue in ATX powered cars. On the 5 speed Contours RPMS tend to stay high for a bit after you've let off the gas during gear changes.

It doesn't appear to be fooling the vacumm, even though I do expect the vacumm to increase slightly. Instead, it just minimized the amount of air that is allowed to enter the manifold bypassing the throttle body. This path simply takes air around the throttle body, directly to the intake manifold and does not seem to be adjustable by the computer.

From what I understand, it is an emissions thing. Keeping the engine speed up when the throttle is closed allows the computer to compensate for the changes more gradually.

On the automatic transmission vehicles, it just has the effect of reducing cold idle speed.

I suspect the reason we have a fast idle is because the computer sets the fuel trim to a rich value until it detects the engine is warmed up. With the unmanaged path around the throttle body, the engine can draw enough air to increase it's speed. Putting the cap in there just reduces the amount of air the engine gets via this path. The computer will keep the idle high enough with the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve that is part of the throttle body.

Cheers,

TB

tboner1965

if this will reduce the number of harsh upshifts in our vans.

As I think about it, if the engine speed is being held artificially high and the transmission shifts, it will be a harsh shift.

So I expect fewer harsh shifts when you lift the throttle. I don't know yet, but that may happen as a result.

Cheers,

TB

meima

I just picked up my 2000 MPV LX on Saturday. It always takes two tries to start the van--it does not turn over the first time I attempt to start it.
Anyone else experience this??

meera

Do you have the security package? If so, the key is sensitive because of a computer chip. This can affect the starting. It's mentioned briefly in the owners manual. I don't have the problem anymore, but did at first. It just turned 15k miles today! Good luck!

meima

thanks Meera....yes I do have the security package...I will look at my owners manual. Hopefully it will tell me what to do..or did it just go away with time for you? thanks again..

Karen_S

I may be showing my ignorance here...okay, okay, it's not the first time :-)...but could this possibly affect the warranty?

KarenS
Vans host

billf9

Billf9

I have a 2000 MPV LX and have noticed a knocking type of sound. It seems to be coming from the steering column or near there. Naturally when I took the van to the dealer, the sound was not to be heard. It also seems to occur after the van is up to about 50 mph, and most often when the a/c is on. Anyone else heard of such a problem? Otherwise, we love the van. Camped out at the NASCAR race in Michigan two weeks ago. Fold down seat is ideal.

tboner1965

Well, since it takes about 60 seconds to insert or remove the $0.18 plug, I'm sure you could take it out before taking your vehicle to the dealership.



TB

phil93

I recently purchased and LX and I'm evaluating the merits of flushing the system and installing synthetic oil. The local Mazda service manager is against the idea. From what I understand, it doesn't affect my warranty. I would normally change my oil every 3,000 - 5,000. Any pros and cons?

javadoc

The only "con" I could think of is that synth oil costs more than dinosaur oil, but then you'd be lighter because your wallet would be thinner, right? '-) There is a very good forum on dino-vs-synth in "maintenance" that may help you.

Some people increase the interval between changes when they use synth. Is the service manager against the idea, because he might be missing out on gouging you with some "value-added" services when you come in for an oil change at the dealer?

--javadoc

nvp

A friend of mine told me Mazda has a bumper recall on the MPV. Anyone else heard of this?

tboner1965

If you change your dino oil every 3k and synthetic every 5K here is how it works out for our vehicles.

Assume a do it yourself with Mobil 1 at $4/quart and dino juice at $1.50/quart, filter at $5/each.

Over 5K miles you will need one synthetic change at the following cost.

6 quarts @$4/quart = $24.00
1 filter @$5.00 = 5.00

Total Cost $29 for synthetic.

The cost of a dino juice oil change is:

6 quarts @$1.50/quart = $9.00
1 filter @$5.00 = 5.00

Total Cost $14, but you need 1.67 changes during
the 5k mile period, so the total cost over 5k miles is $23.38.

If you get better fuel economy with synthetic, (some do) then the cost is further offset. If your fuel economy improves by just 1% you will get 50 free miles over the course of the 5k mile period. That is like 2-3 gallons of fuel or easily $2.75 to $4.00

Not to mention what your time is worth.

So what does all of this prove, synthetic is not as expensive as you might think.

If you go to 6K miles between synthetic changes the price difference is about a buck, you don't use as many resources, you generate less waste, yada yada yada.

I even use synthetic in my newly acquired 1987 Buick. It goes about 1600 miles a month, so every three months we've gone through 5K miles. I'd hate to be changing oil every seven weeks. I'll run that out to 12 or 13 weeks and spend that hour with Mrs. TBoner.

TB

Karen_S

I've never claimed to be a mechanical whiz...and now I've proved it. :-)

KarenS
Vans host

jb03

There are several recent posts about the recall in either either the MPV Cruisers Club II or MPV V forums. Based on previous posts from others, it appears that recall notices should be sent out either this month or October. The recall will be for additional stiffening of the front bumper so that less damage occurs during 5 mph bumper crash tests.

The MPV fared very well in the higher speed front and side crash tests (4 and 5 stars respectively), but did not do so well in the low speed tests where the van is run into a bumper post at 5 mph.

Regards,
JB

msaxy

Fellow MPV owners,

I installed a Draw-Tite type III trailer hitch
on my 2000 MVP. It was quite easy to install.

I used a receiver bike rack for our recent vacation and we hit bottom from time to time
mostly from going in and out of driveways, etc.

Has anyone researched the rear strut design
and figured out a suitable aftermarket
replacement that is either adjustable or firmer?

The rear of the MPV simply hangs too low after
you've packed 2 adults, 3 children, and gear.

We now have 20,000 miles on our LX van.
I wish it had a little more power so that the
transmission wouldn't have to shift as often.
The transmission's decision process can be quite frustrating at times. Am I the only one
who feels this way? If so, maybe I should have
my tranny checked out.

Thanks,

Mark cravatts@lucent.com

dlncmay

Of course I am not familiar with your tranny, but I do find the tranny in my LX a bit annoying at times. I love the van and under most conditions the engine, tranny, and performance are fine. At times the 1st-2nd shift is too abrupt (I think this occurs mostly when the van is cold). Hilly terrain also aggravates the shifting more than in other vehicles I have owned. Also, using the resume on the cruise control can initiate an unneeded and unwanted kickdown (I recognize that this is not necessarily a tranny issue). In any case, I think your points are valid, but your tranny is probably "normal." On the other hand, you only have 20,000 miles on it. It's under warranty, have it checked.

Take care!

craigahn

I have 2000 Odyssey LX. It has vibration so bad from 65+, it feels like riding a wash machine on a rinse cycle. Took it to two dealerships, talked to customer relations, district manager confirmed the problem - but after four attempts, they are unwilling to fix it. There is nothing they can do since all LX steels wheels wobble when you put them on the spindle and watch. At least you Mazda owners didn't pay sticker.

Other common problems with ODYSSEY
Transmission noise at 50MPH (which I have)
Pulling to the right (which I have)
Vibration from 65MPH +

I thought Honda was a good manaufacturer so I paid premium, but I was wrong. I will never buy another Honda.

See Odyssey problems. It's upto sixth iteration.

PS. I am going through Lemon law to get my money back. I will use that money to buy MPV and save myself a $5000.00

tboner1965

I triggered the Check Engine Light in our MPV. That fast idle fix has the computer all upset. It set code 506, essentially idle too slow. So I'll drill out that 7/32nds cap a bit larger. It took it a week to complain. However, the weather was a bit warmer yesterday when the light was triggered.

Glad I have OBD-II software and an interface for my laptop. Got it through a group buy from the CEG for $97. Pretty much one use and it's paid for itself. Ask you dealer how much to read the codes.

If anyone does set a code after doing the fast idle fix, you can either disconnect the battery, or there may be a fuse for the PCM|ECM memory. Take that fuse out for about 15-30 minutes and put it back in. I like that solution better than the battery because you can keep your radio presets and clock.

Cheers,

TB

mpfritz

I have an ES, about 12K miles, bought in December 99. At first there was one small flaking spot on the passenger side dash, now there are 4 or 5 small areas, right on the airbag area. Anyone else have this problem? Haven't gone to the dealer yet, but will expect them to replace this section!

kennj

I'm picking up a new MPV ES tonight. The dealer claims that the bumpers were fixed with the honeycomb inserts. Is there a way I can check? Thanks.

topspinsteve

I just got my LX on Friday evening and love it. I noticed that it is pulling to the right a bit (as opposed the the usual pulling to the left) and am going to take it in tomorrow to get it looked at. Another problem that I seemm to have is a problem with the tires. I have the Yokohamas. All 4 tires, especially the front 2, have a grove or dimple (don't really know what to call it) on the sidewalls. You can see them if you look closely, and can definately feel it if you run your finger along the sidewall. It runs from near the tread down towards the rim. Anyone else have or notice this problem?

Steve

thekondos

If the honeycomb insert recall was done after production of your van you should see a blue recall sticker inside the driver's side door. Plus stickers for any other recall work done.

I don't know exactly what you would see upon inspection of the bumper if you just crawl under there and look. (I heard it is a steel reinforcing insert on the back of the bumper.) Maybe you can tell upon inspection.

I am sure Mazda USA customer service can tell you if your mfg date/vin # was fixed prior to shipping. The mfg date is also on the driver's side door frame on the white sticker.

I hope it is done! That would be great for you.

pounce8

I asked the service manager the same question today when I picked up my new ES and he said that they cannot sell the van unless it has had all the recall work done. He said it was usually done at the "port." In thinking it makes sense because you would just get a recall notice in the mail soon after you bought the vehicle, and it is probably just easier for them to fix the car before they sell it.

julyar

I just found out why my rear A/C is not blowing cold air. They told me that the "Air mix actuator" was not opening at all, and the "temperature unit" also failed. They ordered both parts and I will have to go back to get it fixed when the parts come in. Can you guys explain to me what these parts are and what they do?

javadoc

Do you have the 4 Seasons? Just asking, as I forgot your specifics.

-java

tboner1965

Parts is parts...

I imagine the air mix actuator is probably a vacumm operated motor that opens or closes a door. This door controls whether your air gets heated or cooled.

Temperature unit, that's like a degree right? Who knows for sure. Probably either some more plastic bits for air to pass through or a sensor.
Don't lose any sleep over it.

Thats the best I can do right now, still a little light headed from playing with my OBD-II software in the garage to see if the new larger hole in the FIF (fast idle fix) is triggering any codes.
None, yet, but the engine was warm when I started.

Cheers,

TB

javadoc

I think TB is right, but I won't touch his chicken comments.

I thought maybe the temp unit was the reostat (sp) that controled the rear temp, if you had 4Seasons, but I'm guessing. I was just yesterday begging my mechanic for a cd with schematics on it, but he hasn't come through for me. That would tell all.

Other than that, I think it's all flaps, servos and gizmos too, with some whatyamacallitz and doohickies thrown in to keep the EPA happy. Like TB said, don't sweat it, since it's under warranty. It just sounds like some duddy parts, and, as my dad says, "Ford happens."

8-P

--Javadoc

mwikle

Eventually looking for this software and an interface connector...rather than a "scan tool" hoping for something I can use on a "castoff" old laptop I have. Might be cool to drive around and see all the input parameters the ECM gets and give...gosh for the days of setting the dwell with a feeler gauge in 100F+ heat underhood on my '72 Dodge Challenger V8...nothing digital on those!

How did you get it for $95 bucks.

It's the tinkerer in me (& I selectively do some post-warranty repairs on my cars as well, time permitting). Also feel it can hep keep Dealers "honest".

Most OBD interface equipment is way to $$$ for home dinkerer...seems prime are for a "shareware-type" solution.

FWIW the engine idle and performance in my van seems fine...hardly worth messin' with for me.

tboner1965

The Contour Enthusiasts Group did a group buy about a month ago. I was fortunate, the guy is right here in St. Louis, so I just went to his house and picked it up.

He wrote the software and builds the interface boxes in plastic electrical junction boxes with a serial cable out one end and the OBD-II cable out the other. We got a 40% discount so the $160+ unit worked out to about $97 and I saved him the shipping costs.

Maybe you can convince him you are part of the CEG.

The guys name is Alex Peper and here is the web site: www.obd-2.com

Cheers,

TB

julyar

thanks for the replies. I do not have the 4-seasons package which is what confused me in the first place. If there is only one temperature control unit for the whole car, and if it has failed, then how come I am getting cold air in the front. The actuator bit I sort of understood as being some little gate that opens and closes to control the air flow.

I just thought I would ask to check to see if the dealer knows what he is talking about. I am not sweating it (literally - since I sit in the front usually). It is under the warranty so they can replace all the gizmos, doohikies, watchamacallits on it that they want as long as they don't screw it up or take too much of my time.

Thanks again, gotta go check on my production problem fix (I am a programmer type too dudes).

karistromme

I'm only getting between 15 and 16 mls/glln on my 2000 ES. This is city driving with the AC on, flat terrain. Is this normal or unusually low? Please comment.

javadoc

Wise to question the service writer. You should ask to speak to the tech that works on your van, he/she'll explain it to you (share with us too, pretty please?) what's really going on with those parts. The service writers usually are just counter people and don't generally work on the cars, they're just there to smile and make you feel all warm and fuzzy about owning a Mazda. Oops, was I starting another one of my rants? ;-)

Oh, btw, I had some type of white film on the outside of the windshield of the MochaVan and Rolf this morning, but it came off mostly with some windshield washer fluid. It eventually melted. Should I call for service? It delayed my morning mocha and bagel run by a few seconds. Anyone else experiencing this? j/k.

--javadoc

evaddave

Java,

Sounds like the MochaVan is starting to turn into the LatteVan.

javadoc

It be called the season's first frost. The Snow Man cometh to the Great White North! :-(((((((((

--jd

dlncmay

If you are driving purely city, I don't think you can expect to get much more than 15 to 16 mpg in my experience. We usually have a few highway runs up and down I-65, thus we will avg. 17 to 19 mpg. On pure highway trips we can get as high as 24 mpg. But, for just city driving 15 to 16 is it. I know its a bummer, but otherwise we are happy MPV owners.

Take care.

karistromme

Thank you for your input. I guess I'll just have to accept the mileage, other than that I love the MPV.

tboner1965

Gasoline is probably the cheapest thing you put into your vehicle. (Mrs TBoner would argue that I'm the cheapest thing that goes in there as I've been accused of squeeking when I walk.)

If you drive 15K miles/year at 15MPG you will burn 1000 gallons of gas, or at a price of about $1.50/gallon, about $1500 worth of fuel. If your fuel economy was 30MPG, you would burn $750/year worth of fuel. That works out to be about $67.50 difference/month. A more realistic comparison is 20MPG vs 15MPG around town. With 20MPG you burn about 750 gallons of fuel for a cost of $1125/year. So monthly the difference between 15MPG and 20MPG is about $31.25

Of course if you drive fewer miles/year the difference is less, if you drive more the difference is more, but you can see why most people are not worried about fuel economy.

TB

roktman

Do they really work? Do they create more wind noise? Do they have any significant affect on mileage? Anyone had any experience with Mazda and aftermarket deflectors?

Yeah, I know, bug season is about over -- even here on Virginia's Eastern Shore. Trying to plan ahead for possible installation for next spring. I'm not really concerned about mileage impact, since I'm consistently getting minimum of 24 mpg driving around on the flat, rural Shore.