Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,252
    Yes, I paid to have it diagnosed again. Dealership saying they would have to diagnose the "problem". I ended up paying over $300 for a new MAF sensor.

    After paying to have it replaced, I talked to a friend that said what you wrote. It could have been cleaned. Or, that it was a simple job (30 minutes) and he could have done it for me. It wouldn't surprise me at all if it didn't need replacement...though the car was hesitating, rpm fluctuating reguardless of throttle input...and cutting out on occasion. Yep, I should have been more patient and posted here or sought out others opinions before going to the dealership, maybe would have saved me some money.

    I should have asked for the part as well...would have helped me understand the problem, should it happen again in the future.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    it happens. The key thing is it fixed your problem and you a a bit wiser.
  • jimhefpghjimhefpgh Member Posts: 7
    Thanks to dtownfb and subearu for your advice. Also thanks to dtownfb for explaining how Autozone can read the codes on a check-engine light. That is awesome, I didn't know they could do that for free.

    That's what I should have done - instead I took it to my Mazda dealer and sure enough the problem was a code PO302 "misfire #2 cylinder". They replaced the coil just for that cylinder.

    They charged me $88 for the part and 127.50 for the diagnostic and labor to replace.

    Just out of curiosity, I checked at Autozone for what they would charge me for one coil - only $45!! So the dealer is charging about double what your local autoparts store is selling it for.

    Anyways, the van runs great now.
  • husker92husker92 Member Posts: 44
    Hello all, it has been a while (couple years) since I last posted.

    We have 2002 which has been pretty good to us, but recently it started shifting a little hard. My wife then called me this morning and said it was making a clunking noise and the O/D light was blinking.

    I searched the site and found some info, but it was all scattered and was answers to questions in previous e-mails that I couldn't see.

    Any info would be appreciated. :sick:
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    does your owner's manual address it? typically flashing the "D" indicator or "O/D" indicator is a means to alert an owner of a transmission system issue. hondas will flash the "D" indicator (there's no O/D off). other vehicles use other indicators.

    it could be that there is an issue with a vehicle speed sensor, or maybe one of the shift solenoids. some problem was detected probably by the TCM (Transmission Control Module). somewhere, I wager a diagnostic code or codes have been stored as to WHY it is flashing the light.

    and it seems probable that when the system is trying to get your attention like this, it will shift hard, perhaps not using the entire shift gearing on purpose, or because it can't. either way, that can't be good, right?

    i would think you'd want to seek out a dealership or an independant specializing in Mazdas. if it were me, i'd want to do this earlier rather than later as continuing to drive with the condition may increase the cost of repairing it.
  • alenabubsalenabubs Member Posts: 27
    I could really use some advice...I have a 2003 MPV ES that I brought new in 2004. Since that time, We have had at least 10 problems with the car, starting with our check engine light that went on a week after we brought it. Other highlights: Two months later, our antifreeze leaked and our radiator broke down and needed to be replaced. Then we've experienced the following: Loud tapping engine noise (required 4 trips to servie dept. to finally fix), leaky roof (service identified as dry rot in sunroof lining and replaced), sensor module that needed to be replaced as well as PVC hose (these two were recalls), CD player stopped working (took to repair this week and they returned the car with one speaker OUT!).

    The latest? Brakes are making a clunking sound when we use them. We were told the brake pads need to be replaced and they are not covered by warranty!

    Enough already! We've taken the car in at least every two months since we've owned it, we NEVER get a loaner (we have to drive back to our house with the tech and he drives it back to service). Then I called Mazda North America's 800 number and THAT was the most frustrating phone call!

    Service dept. had told me to get in touch with district manger via 800 number to discuss having the brakes fixed at Mazda's cost. Well, according to customer service line, the district manager (who they would not identify by name or give me contact info) is on vacation and apparently there's no one else who can help! They sent my message to a dealer rep but (and I quote) "I can't guarantee someone will return your call." I can't believe it!

    Argh!!! What can I do?!? Thanks for reading.
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    I've moved these posts to our transmission discussion here: Mazda MPV: Transmission Issues

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  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Does this mean that now we'll have a different discussion for each kind of problem on the MPV? Great. :sick:
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    About 3 or 4 weeks ago I started noticing 2 or 3 drops of oil on the garage floor showing up in slightly different spots (depending on where the van was parked) on a daily basis. I made an appointment to take the van to the stealership as it's still under warranty. I go pick it up when they got it done and like a fool, I drive it home before I read the comments on the service invoice. Written on the invoice was the following statement by the mechanic:

    "No leak found. Oil build up on oil pan flange and portion of cross member frame aparently from a sloppy oil change. Suggest talking to the person who does oil changes."

    While I do my own oil changes, and I'm usually pretty good about cleaning up after myself, I gave the mechanic the benefit of the doubt, and for a couple of days afterwards, the van was not dripping any oil. Then it started dripping again. I decided to pull the van up on my ramps and roll underneath on my creeper to take a look. I could clearly see a film of oil from the oil pan seal running down on the pan, and I could also see where the drops were forming before it dripped on the floor. I'm guessing the mechanic wiped as much of the oil off as he could, and it probably took a couple of days of leaking before it started dripping again. Why the mechanic tried to pass it off as nothing being wrong is anyone's guess. Maybe he thought I'd just decide to live with the leak. He thought wrong.

    I called the stealership again and made another appointment to take it back in. When I dropped it off, I showed the person checking in my van the invoice from my previous visit, and I explained that I went under the vehicle myself and saw that the pan seal was leaking. He called me about an hour ago and said the mechanic agreed with me that the seal was bad, but they didn't have a replacement in stock. They won't have the new seal until Monday. What automotive service center doesn't have something as common as an oil pan seal in stock? That's ridiculous! He said I could come pick up the van and take it back on Monday, or I could just leave it. I told them to keep it as the stealership is like 25 miles away. The good thing is the leak should finally be fixed properly. The bad thing is having to be without the van over the entire weekend. I'm sure everyone knows how much of pain in the wazoo it is to be without a vehicle for even a day. In the end, I will be happy if they fix the leak.
  • glmmantisglmmantis Member Posts: 4
    got a 98. tran fluid looks/ smells shot. first and second work fine. all gears above slip real bad. undrivable past 2nd gear.

    indicator light came on tonight.

    thought it was a sensor or vacuum.

    mechanic has not looked at it for a yr now.

    fluid was flushed then.was better, now much worse.

    in O/D, for a long time, when trying to speed up ( at hwy speed) it seemed to jump too far down like 3rd ( not 4th)

    now on the way home from 90 miles away, we barely made it.

    rogerrabbit, has your issue been resolved??? what was it???

    Anyone else, please??????
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    What is the history of the preventive maintenance done on this tranny? If you haven't been getting the tranny completely flushed about every 30K miles, then it's probably toast. Auto trannies don't hold up well if the fluid isn't completely changed out once in a while. Draining doesn't count as that only drains about 1/3 of the fluid.
  • glmmantisglmmantis Member Posts: 4
    We've had it for 4 years and had it flushed a year ago. Otherwise, I really don't know the history.

    We did drain and replace the fluid today along with a new filter. The fluid is either still bad ( the 1/3rd thing) or it's being burned incredibly fast.

    it drove the same and the fluid is toasted.

    Thanks,
    Lee
  • glmmantisglmmantis Member Posts: 4
    btw it's an "allsport" 4wd.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ....was the drained fluid?
  • glmmantisglmmantis Member Posts: 4
    "the fluid is toasted" BLACK. even after drain and filter replacement.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ...but it sounds like your tranny is fried. Tranny fluid can still be pink and be bad, but black fluid is definitely not a good sign. If you have a mecahnic look at it I'm sure he'll tell you the same thing.
  • jbcl2004jbcl2004 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 96 model and had the exact same problem. When you slightly pushed on the gas it would jerk very bad but if I floored the accelerator it would really go without a problem. I had the spark plugs and wires replaced numerous times with no success. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor thinking it was having a misfire problem. The shop I kept taking it to continually blamed the injector's and I eventually had the injector's cleaned with no success. I then took it to another shop and they told me it was the distributor. I had it replaced and the van now drives very smoothly without jerking.
  • jbcl2004jbcl2004 Member Posts: 2
    If the click noise is coming from the dash/steering column area it is a pin that is being released that allows you to shift out of park. It is a safety feature to keep, mostly kids, from accidentally shifting out of park without your foot on the brake pedal. try pushing on the brake at initial startup but do not take out of park. release the brake pedal and the depress the pedal again and it will probably make the same noise. If it does, it is a safety feature and nothing to be concerned about.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    Alright, who can help me figure out what a "system too lean bank 2" code means, or a "fuel air meter" code?

    Gotta keep the DW happy, she doesn't like dash lights coming on. '02 MPV LX.

    John
  • alenabubsalenabubs Member Posts: 27
    OK, so last month my husband and I mailed a letter to Mazda detailing all our issues with our '03 MPV. A Customer Mediator from Mazda called and said they would investigate our concerns. In my letter I stated our past and current issues with the car: check engine light issues that started first week of ownership, radiator that had to be replaced a month into ownership, sunroof leak that required replacement of "rotted" insulation, CD player broke and had to be completely replaced, loud ticking in engine that required 5 trips to repair, constant clanking brake noise mechanic claims is the brake shims but we would have to pay for new brakes (!) -- and that's the major stuff.

    So i got an email back yesterday. They claim many of the problems we experienced initally were due to an aftermarket alarm system we had installed after purchase (however, note that it the MPV did not have an alarm system for us to purchase, and we had to disconnect it within two weeks at our cost to enable us to keep our warranty.

    She also wrote "Additional repairs that were completed on your vehicle did not impair the use, value, or safety of your vehicle." HOWEVER, when we took it in to mazda service the last time to get the CD player replaced, the mechanics gave us our car back with a SPEAKER out! I called on the way home and the repair shop told me they couldn't look at it and to make another appointment to bring it back in. That's when I lost it with Mazda!

    So Mazda writes: "As it is our understanding that your vehicle is currently operating to manufacturer’s standards, Mazda does not believe you are entitled to a replacement or repurchase as you requested in your letter to MNAO. However, as I can understand any repairs are frustrating, I would like to offer you an extended warranty contract due to the inconvenience of you having to bring your vehicle in for prior repairs."

    I'm ready to fight this some more -- I still can go through the Connecticut Lemon Law arbitration -- but is it worth it? Am I wasting my time? Any advice appreciated, thanks for reading if you got this far!
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,252
    All those repairs did impair the use of your MPV... you didn't have it as it was in the shop for repairs quite a bit correct? A lot of lemon laws indicate how many days a vehicle can be kept worked on at dealership before a lemon law applies. I would check your specific state lemon law. Should have been included in your owners manual.

    Whether it is worth it or not would be up to you after collecting all your information. Some say it is a major pain and wouldn't do it again... others say it was worth it.

    You state they offered you an extended warranty... how long and for how much money? Or, was it offered for free? If you haven't required repairs recently I would be inclined to keep it. If it's been problem after problem, I would want to get rid of it. Good luck.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Hi, folks,

    You've probably noticed new discussions appearing all over the forums. What's happening is that we are closing generic, everything-in-one pile discussions like this and creating smaller discussions that deal with specific areas of interest. You'll find a number of discussions listed at the top level of this group: Mazda MPV

    When you're ready to post, please check the discussion list there for the appropriate discussion to post in. If you don't see a discussion that fits your question or problem, feel free to create one. We can deal with accidental duplication of topics as things progress.

    While you're at the top-level, don't forget to click on "Track This Group". That way, you'll be able to track all of the discussions that are already here, as well as any new ones as they are created.

    Using the "Read New Posts" link will mean you won't miss anything on the MPV board. If you see a discussion that doesn't interest you, all you have to do is click on the "Remove Track" link within the discussion.

    Thanks for your understaning and help in making this group a great resource of information for MPV owners!

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