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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

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  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    i wouldnt buy anything from JC whitney if i were you. All their products are rejects. i ordered a cellphone holder from them. the thing cracked and broke. i wouldnt get those light bulbs if i were you....they may be ok now but it could short out your electrical system. i recommend PIAA plasma bulbs. they are like zenons (spelling) like the BMW's and mercedes have. the closest to zenon lights out there. they are brighter but made by the best company for lights out there. I got PIAA driving lights on my elantra and they are excellent. the plasma bulbs are about $70 bucks.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    Congratulations on purchasing your new Hyundai! The next few weeks are very important for performing
    the new car "Break-In". Your car is made of thousands and thousands of pieces, all fitting together
    tightly with very small clearances. The way you treat your new car for the first 1000 miles will determine
    a lot about the rest of its life. To help make certain your new car last as long as possible, here are some
    very important tips for breaking in your new car. Please also read your owner's manual and follow the
    manufacture's recommendations as well. The break-in period lasts for the first 1000 miles, although the
    first miles are the most important.

    Change your oil at 1000 miles.
    The new engine and its parts are getting to know each other very well, and small pieces of metal
    are worn off during the first 1000 miles. These small pieces are normal - all engines do this.
    Change engine speed often.
    The engine should not be kept at a constant speed during the break-in period. Change speed
    every 5-10 minutes, slow down a few mph or speed up a few mph. This is most important for the
    first few hundred miles.
    Do not use cruise control for first 1000 miles.
    The engine's speed should not be kept constant for long periods of time during the break-in. Avoid
    the use of cruise control.
    Avoid Hard Sudden Stops.
    This is difficult since you rely greatly on other drivers to not cause a situation where you need to
    stop suddenly. Sudden stops can cause new brakes to not settle properly, shortening their life.
    Try to always maintain a large distance between you other cars, to help prevent sudden stops.
    Avoid Jack-Rabbit Starts.
    Flooring the gas pedal and taking off may sound fun, but it's a quick way to shorten the life of your
    engine. Jack-Rabbit starts should never be performed, but it is very important to not do them
    during the break-in period.
    Transmission
    Manual Transmissions should be kept in the correct gear. Do not allow the engine to lug (having
    the engine in too high a gear for the speed).
    Automatic Transmissions should have the over-drive turned off when going below 35 mph (the
    switch is located on the shifter knob). Keeping the over-drive off below 35 mph keeps the RPM's
    higher, making certain the engine is hot enough to burn fuel and waste correctly. This is more
    important on 4-cylinder engines and should be used throughout the cars life. This will help keep
    the engine clean.
    Do not race the engine.
    Racing the engine is never good, and even worse during the break-in period. Racing the engine
    can cause seals to settle incorrectly, causing problems down the road.
    Keep the speed low under 60 mph.
    This is more important for the first couple hundred miles. Try not to go over 60 mph.
    Take a short trip.
    Taking a short trip is a great way to break in your new car. Driving on the interstate in the slow
    lane allows you to quickly get the most important first few hundred miles completed. Driving on
    the interstate will also avoid traffic lights (stopping and starting) and allow you to vary your speed.
  • Yep! Problems are presents on Elantras, even if everybody here seem to be really pleased with it, mine is haunted.

    1- Like described on topic #75, at night, the dial itself light up when they are dimmed at mid-intensity and when engine revs up on kick-down. It happens only when A/C is on. Any idea about it? The prob still remains on my car

    2- Manifold cracked, intoxicating my family with carbon monoxid. I suppose to be the only one in Canada who have change that piece on 1996-2000 Elantra generation. Wow! I'm glad to know that

    3- A/C works so-so. After a half hour use, it push a cool puff of air, then push a warm humid puff... Then the cycle begins:cool-warm-cool-warm... Now, i don't use A/C cause it it too much frustating. And, despite 4-5 dealership visits, the prob still be with the car. Any idea about it?

    4- Other minor probs, they have to change a shock absorber on right rear side, two tail gate schock on the hatch,, and, what else.. the alternator slacked on its bracket in the first week, leaving me stucked aside the road (my love story has beginned there) and automatic tranny slips one a month, even the recall serviced on my car. Bulbs blows like pop corn on this car.

    Unfortunately, there is no lemon law in Quebec Province and i can't return back that devil's creature. So i have to keep that crap till the lease contract will be over. I,m sad about the poor quality of this car cause it's a good family car, providing a good comfort, good gas efficiency regardless the potential power of the engine and a delightful sure paw on the road. But it will be my first and last Hyunday
  • Nice advice. I am not clear about two points:
    race the engine?
    Short trip? (noone likes to take long one if there is a short trip)

    Also, can you tell me what does rear spoiler do?
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    Racing the engine is just running the engine at high rpm, like flooring the gas pedal when the car is in park. The spoiler mostly looks good and does nothing else on most production cars. On sports cars the spoiler puts more down force on the rear end of the car at high speeds. This makes the car more stable and handle better at these high speeds. The Elantra probably will never get up to the speed that the spoiler will work. This is because the spoiler on the Elantra is pretty small. the car makers seem to be putting spoilers on everything now, but they are much more show then go.

    Scott
  • What's a pity that I cannot read baber's words days ago. I just finished a long trip and made my new elantra's milage up to 1,200 miles. I kept 75mph in interstate for hours. And seems I didn't obey most of the rulers you mentioned.

    I want to know, anything I can do now to make my car's break-in better(though it is a little late now). Thanks.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    We have a 99 Accent and 99 Elantra. My Wife's Elantra was broken in according to the advice I posted, but my Accent was driven a lot at a constant 50 mph or so on my long 100 mile a day commute to work. Both cars run perfect now, the Elantra has 15,000 miles, the Accent has 32,000. Both cars don't burn or use a drop of oil. The only difference is that the Accent took a little longer to break in then the Elantra. The Elantra ran great after about 1,000 miles but the Accent didn't really break in till about 3,000 miles. You should change your oil and filter now (I use 100% synthetic) and drive it a few more thousand miles according to those instructions. As the engine breaks in, it will feel like it has more power and will get better gas mileage too. Enjoy your new car and don't worry.
  • cnn2cnn2 Posts: 2
    Hi everyone,

    This morning when I started my 2000 elantra, the car body has a little bit noticable shaking back and forward, and the red light "check engine" was on, and it continued on during my 20 minutes drive to work, I stopped on the road and restart the car and the "check engine" light was still on, I don't know what's wrong. Anyone can help? (just had a car wash yesterday, can that be the problem?)

    Just had 15,000 miles maintainance service couple of weeks ago, they found out that the auto transmission fluid leaks and fixed that, so far that is the only problem. The other minor problem is that the left passenger door won't unlock with either remote keyless or master control on driver's door, haven't ask dearler yet, anyone has similar problem??

    thanks in advance, any input will be appreciated.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    The most comman cause of a check engine light is a loose gas cap. Make sure the gas cap is tight and "clicks" a few times as you tighten it. If the gas cap is ok, I would check the transmission fluid since you had the trans serviced recently. You might have a water in the wiring problem too. If nothing helps, bring it to the dealer, you can have them fix the door locks too.
  • cnn2cnn2 Posts: 2
    Thanks a lot baber. I still can't find out the problem. The gas cap was tight, the transmission fluid level is normal, however, I don't know what "water in the wire" mean and how can I remove it if there is water? Can you explain further?

    I called the dealership service department but they said if the car still runs fine then their earliest appointment available is 8 days from today. I wonder if the "check engine" light continues on while driving could cause any damage to the engine and all.

    I had the 2000 elantra since last Nov., the first $15000 miles the baby was doing exceptional (runs great, high gas mileage, quiet engine, etc...you name it, :),it was never late on oil change (first oil change at 750 miles) and maintainance service, and I was very very satisfied with its overall performance. However, now the problem seems coming one after another: auto transmission fluid leaking, passenger door won't "power" lock/unlock, and now "check engine" problem....
  • Three days ago, I found that when I ignite the engine, it costs me longer than before and the noise it big. Sometime, I even can feel the engine
    shaking, just as what cnn2 said, but no check engine light on. After igniting, everything is ok.

    Another question is what the defination for quiet engine? How quiet it should be? Just curious.
  • ...I saw them on the car pictured at the www.hmc.co.kr website. However, fog lamps are not found on the Elantras pictured in the new US brochure. Also, the Elantras on the above mentioned website have a black trim lacking on the US models. Anyway, could someone please tell me whether I will be able to get fog lamps on a new 2001 Elantra? The new Elantra is more attractive than the new Sentra, Nubira, Protege, Neon, Focus, or Civic, and better priced too. Being able to get it with fog lamps would make all the difference for me. Someone please advise.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,624
    I just drove a 2001 Elantra 5-speed and was quite impressed. I've driven 2000 models as rental cars, always automatics, and they were OK. But the 2001 was much improved in many ways: smoother (except for a constant vibration in the steering wheel that I expect was a sample defect), quieter, more upscale interior, better stereo, bigger tires, nicer exterior (except the grille). And contrary to other postings, the 2001 does include all the power goodies as standard, plus side airbags! The dealer where I did the test drive quoted me the sticker price (of course). Since I was not going to buy tonight, I didn't push it. But then I saw an ad in the local (Twin Cities, MN) paper for a 2001 Elantra for $11,300 or $179 a month. I called the dealer, and the salesman told me the price is for a 5-speed (great), no options (fine), but INCLUDES the destination fee, and the monthly rate is to BUY the car over 5 years, with $2000 down. I did some quick figuring, and it appears the dealer is offering this car for about $700 under invoice, plus an interest rate of about 5.8%. I am going to check this out tomorrow, since it seems too good to be true. Has anyone seen a comparable price out there? Are there any rebates or other special offers on the 2001 Elantras yet? Edmunds says the Elantra rebate expired on 10/2.
  • jkobtyjkobty Posts: 99
    to see you guys having so many problems with the Hyundais. I have a Daewoo Leganza and Nubira CDX's and they have been flawless. But it sure seems that we Daewoo owners will have to live with the bad reputation of Korean cars stemming
    from KIA and Hyundai. I was hoping the stigma
    was over because the new Hyundais looked promising. I went to check out the new Hyundais.
    I was impressed with the XG300 and Santa Fe SUV.
    I am still unimpressed with the rest though. The 2001 Elantra has seats that feel very harsh like the covers were made of burlap or coarse polyester
    or something. I had to slam the glove compartment
    four times before it closed with a cheap click.
    The styling is cute, but that is all the praise I
    can give for this car. Nubira in my opinion is still a much better car.
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    are you not reading the Daewoo posts? So what - a person has a check engine light come on in their Hyundai.....happens to all cars. Trust me -it is not Hyundai's fault that no one likes Daewoos.

    Simply put - your Daewoo is not any better (especially if it is based on ANY GM product/parts), at all, in the least bit, than any other car. Especially a Hyundai. I would not consider a Daewoo for lots of reasons, main one being there are too few dealerships, styling wise they are horrendous, and they don't even offer a car with a decent powerplant. Even their pseudo-luxury car has a rough four cylinder. (I know - you think it has lots of torque - 148lbs is still less than a TDI Jetta....) And that horrible grill on the front.....my opinion - I would take a Hyundai ACCENT over a Daewoo Leganza.
  • liufeiliufei Posts: 201
    Personally, I would be more concern with Daewoo's financial condition if I owned one. They already laying off significant number of their staff, close 2 plant/design centers and I heard a group of their top executives already resign, not to mention lacking the cash to pay off their employee's salary.....

    Dont know if I want Hyundai buy them or not, Hyundai is already spend lots of money, don't want them to become the next Daewoo.
  • Daewoos are crap. Hyundai's are at least a little better and have the warranty in case they don't. The earliest Daewoo sold here was the late 80s/early 90s Pontiac LeMans which was a very unreliable car. There have been a few people unsatisfied with their Hyundais and I admit my 2000 Elantra is not of Lexus quality, but I have never felt that this car would leave me stranded. I have almost 23,000 miles on this car in 11 months with very minor problems. I would still recommend this car to people.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    Sometimes water can get into the ignition system like the distributor, sparkplug wires or the wiring that goes to the engine computer control. Sometimes the water dries on it's own, sometimes you need to wipe it off. This may mean disassembling some of the wiring. This should be done by the dealer. By the way I believe the Elantra has a distributorless ignition system. If the engine runs good, you could probably wait for service. If the engine is running rough, I would call the roadside assistance and have it towed to the nearest dealer as a check engine light could be a serious problem. A dealer will usually look at a car right away if it is towed in. The computer that runs the engine stores a code number for any check engine problem. The dealer will be able to read this code. The check engine code number will point the service person in the direction of the problem. The engine should run smooth once it is running. A rough idle and stalling may be a problem with the mass air flow sensor or wiring. The 99-2000 Elantra has been recalled for a problem with the wiring on this sensor. The normal vibration of the engine is loosening the connection on the sensor causing stalling and rough running. The mass air flow sensor tells the engine computer how much air the engine is getting. If the computer gets no air flow information, it sets the air/fuel ratio wrong and the engine runs poorly. This problem may or may not set a code and turn the check engine light on.
  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    i thought that hyundai had dropped the power window/locks/mirrors from the elantra as standard equipment. i was wrong. its all there.... plus side airbags and 15" wheels for the same price! I should have waited till now to buy the elantra. i also like that the new engine in the 2001 is more refined in that it revs lower when going highway speeds like 65mph, it revs at 2300. mine is about 2800 rpms. however, im happy with mine. no problems yet. both exterior sytlings are nice in my opinion.

    good luck to all with their cars
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,624
    Don't feel too bad, elantra00--the 2001s are about $700 more than the 2000s, so you got a great car and paid less than anyone who buys a 2001, even though there are some nice improvements on the 2001s. BTW, I found out today that the dealer who advertised a 2001 for $11,300 including destination was on the level, and even included floor mats. But it was a loss leader, so they only had one, a pewter 5-speed, and the salesman told me the $179 payments were for 5 years, when in fact they were for 6. But I'm thinking about going for it (before it's gone) and use my credit union for financing @ 7.5%. It's either that or buy out my leased '97 Sentra GXE, a trusty little car but pale in comparison to the 2001 Elantra (plus the warranty). $11,300 sounds like as good a price as I'll get, considering there's no incentives out yet. Anybody seen anything lower out there?
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