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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006



  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    i'd go for a 2000 if i were you. for 2001, you gain 15" rims vs. 14" rims this year. however, for the same price, you dont have power windows, locks, mirrors standard as in the 2000. so get a 2000 if i were you! nows a good time to buy cause dealerships are clearing their lots for the 2001 model cars. good luck
  • Just bought a 2001. Had a deposit on a 2000 but when I went to pick it up it had a dent in the door. Glad I bought the 2001 - seems like a better put together car - i.e. temp. control knobs are more sturdy with noticeable settings - engine seems smoother - not quite as buzzy on the highway. Auto shifts are barely apparent - reminds me of that old Subaru with the variable transmission. My question - no alloy wheels - just called Tire Rack and they told me nobody makes an alloy wheel yet - anybody else have any luck??? Thanks - p.s. - took the name and model plates off the trunk - nobody knows what this car is - looks like the small Volvo...
  • Tell us more about it, if you don't mind...

    For example, how comfortable are the seats, how well does it handle, is the engine powerful, is the interior quiet, how's the stereo, etc.

  • Hi,

    I have test driven the 2001 Elantra twice. I am in the market to getting a spanken 2001. All I can say is that at idle you can barely hear the engine idling. It is very quite. As quiet as my friends 2000 Honda Civic. It handles very well. Much like the 2000 Elantra. I have taken it on the freeway at about 65 mph. It does have a lot of tire noise and some slight wind noise. However, the engine is very quiet. It is much quieter than the 2000 Civic at speeds up to 65 mph. I don't know about speeds beyond that. All I can say it that it is very impressive for its smoothness. I am not sure how it would compare to the 2001 Civic. I may test drive one this weekend. BTW, the Elantra uses Michellin tires and I have heard these are noisy. Though the brochure indicates that a Rear Spoiler and Allow Wheels are available I have yet to see any 2001 Elantras have them. In fact the dealers, here in Southern CA, have no information on when they would be available. They aren't even on their pricing sheet.

  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    There is a $750 price increase on the 2001 Auto over the 2000 auto Elantra. This could hurt their sales since Hyundai's are bought on price rather reputation. The 2001 is improved over the 2000, but I don't know if it is $750 better.

  • Live in Chgo. Just got a 2001 Elantra. Auto, package 2. The sticker was about 14,200. Got it for 12,800. Good deal ???? Yes No???? I had a 97 civic and really wanted to stay with a civic. The thing is I leased my 97-nice set of options and added an electric roof. Big $$. Had to lease. $242 for 3yrs. This time around I wanted to BUY. For the price, std equip and warr the Elantra kicks civic. And it just feels more luxurious. Don't let me down Elantra.
  • Would you let me know the dealer information you bought new 2001 Elantra for $12,800. I live in Urbana, Illinois. It takes 3 hours drive from my home to Chicago. I'm going to buy it right now.
  • I forgot something. Is $12,800 out the door price or only car price?. I mean whether $12,800 includes all additional costs - sales tax, registration & title fees or not. If not, I would like to know the total price you paid to dealer.
  • My post (#135) is disappeared. So I post it again.

    I am considering buying Elantra 2001 with 4-speed automatic transmission and package 2 (cruse control, remote keyless entry & vehicle security system).

    The invoice price posted on is $13,015.

    Standard (5-speed manual) $11,504
    Destination charge $435
    Options (4-speed automatic transmission $732
    + Package 2 $344)

    I went to the one of Hyundai dealer and found that the sticker price is $14,200 + dealer added option $700
    = $14,900.

    If I add this sticker price and all additional costs – sales tax, registration & title fees, it will exceed over $16,000.

    I was dumbfounded.

    Is there anybody who bought Elantra 2001 recently? Please post your price. I’m looking forward to knowing the true fair price.
  • dcsuh64: MSRP for auto+pkg2 is 14134, not 14200. What are the dealer added options? With $700 more, u can chose option 5!

    newelantra: it's very hard to let dealer to accept invoice price(13015) here in Kansa. 12800 is a very good deal(I am sure it's the before-tax price, unless the salesman just won a lottery). How did u negotiate w/ the dearler? Anything special with that car?
  • Here is the sticker price and dealer added option.

    Sticker price - $14,907

    Standard (auto) - $13,299
    Package 2 - $400
    Mat - $70
    Inland Freight and handling - $435
    Dealer added options -$695
    - Underbody protection coating
    - Paint protection
    - Door edge guard
    - Sound shield
    - Pinstrips

    Thank you.
  • I have no idea about inland freight, maybe it's required on ur state. But definitely do not take those protection options. delear earns a lot from them. A can of wax and 20 min labor will do the job. With $700, buy option 5. ABS will increase the safety for sure(just my opinion).
  • Went to my dealer in Pittsburgh (the largest) last Tuesday and they had no 2001s. I asked when they are getting the 2001 in stock and they said that they will get them in 2 weeks. I asked them questions about it and they new nothing about it. I asked if we would eventually get the 4 door hatchback and he couldn't tell me. He didn't even know the station wagon was leaving. In their defense, the dealership also sold 6 other car lines.

    If anyone is searching for a 2000 Wagon, they had a bunch of them. Every color and option available. It was like where all the Wagons that nobody wanted ended up. It is kind of sad, really. I bought my 2000 5-spd Wagon because Hyundai was only one of a handful of manufacturers that made this kind of vehicle. Most car companies have abandoned the compact wagon market, let alone offer a 5-speed, great warranty, great price with tons of options. I will keep my car and hope that Ford keeps their Focus 5-spd wagon around until I need another car.
  • loli27loli27 Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 Elantra, 5 speed w/7500 miles so far. The car is just great, no problems at all.
    Unfortunately we had floods in Florida and my car's carpet got soaked; it's almost dry now, but my question is do you guys think I should do something extra like having the carpet removed so they dry it underneath or should I just live it like that. I understand there is wiring underneath the carpet that can corrode. what would you do?? thank you in advance for any advice
  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    id bring it in and ask the dealer. who knows if there is water underneath that could eventually cause rust. but that could take years, so you dont have to rush it.

    I had a 93 jeep cherokee. the seals around the roof broke and let water in. one night i poured out and the following morning, i got in and saw the carpet was soaked. however, i let it dry and nothing happened electrically. but were talking about a foregin car, not a domestic like my old car. the wiring system is totally different in every car, so id bring it in
  • I have over 1200 miles on my 2001 Elantra in one week. The engine is quiet at idle - there is a butterfly valve that is partially closed at low speeds and opens up on highway. Seems like a good engine - powerful yet I'm averaging around 30 mpg - mostly highway. The transmission is slick - fuzzy logic affects shifting - really seems like that variable transmission that Subaru used to offer - you can't really detect shifts. Engine revs at around 2600 on highway (approx. 75 mph) which I like. Other compacts were around 3100 rpms. Cruise is easy - everything is on the wheel and car seldom downshifts on hills to maintain speed. Try this on other compacts - go up on highway and set cruise at 70 with a/c on - you might be surprised at all the downshifting. I have cassette - didn't get c/d but I will upgrade at first service. See if you can find one with 4 wheel discs - the rear drums don't cut it and the front discs work too hard - already noticed a small vibration when stopping from high speed - will have them change pads at first service. No car mats! Ordered some through dealer and also asked them to check whether Sonata alloy wheels fit - I don't know if they are 4 lug or not but if they are, and reasonable, I might try to upgrade. 15 inch wheels make a big difference over 2000 - strongly recommend - plus they're Michelins - not bad. Bought this car for a long distance "crasher" - didn't want to put 50 k miles per year on my Saab. So far so good - like the color too - Champagne. By the way - there is a strange interior smell - must be the foam rubber in the seats or something. the seat material is odd - curious to see how it holds up. Back seats have very high backs - I like that. Good luck with your 2001 Elantras - I drove 4 other comps before I chose this one. I'd be happy to share opinions on other cars if anyone is interested.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    Put 15,000 miles on our 99 Elantra. This car has been great!! Not one problem. The first thing we did was put slip on seat covers on our front seats, so they are still like new. Put 32,000 miles in one year on my 99 Accent. This has been a great car too. Had two problems with the Accent so far. At about 25,000 miles the power steering pump started to make noise, at about the same time the AM band on the radio got wiped out from a lightning strike. The dealer fixed both in one day for free and gave me a free loaner car. The cars seem to be a great value and the dealers seem to honor the warranty. Hyundai also seems to be committed to improving their cars every year. The 300XG has to be seen to be believed!
  • bri70bri70 Posts: 147
    "By the way - there is a
    strange interior smell - must be the foam rubber
    in the seats or something."

    A-ha! The infamous strange smell still exists! Korean cars are notorious for that. I believe it has something to do with a chemical that is used to protect the vehicles during oceanic shipping.
  • My got my new Elantra 2000 Sedan on Sept. 25 with 48 miles. Until now, I have rided for 480 miles. Everything seems ok except noise. I noticed that whenever the speed more than 3000rpm, the noise will be much larger than below it, especially when in the low speed, for example, from 0 to 40 mph. Anyone has the same condition? Or just because this is a new car and I should expect it will be better after 1k miles?

    Also, any suggestions on how to run this car in its first 2000 miles are welcome. Thanks.
  • richsaprichsap Posts: 93
    Just FYI in case you've thought about doing this...

    I wanted to put some headlight bulbs with a higher wattage high beam on my 2k Elantra. I got some at JC Whitney that are 80w high/55w low. I live out in a rural area with a lot of animals crossing the road in the early morning hours.

    Anyway, my high beam fuses lasted about a half hour. They are rated 10 amp (each side), and the amperage of the headlight is supposed to be less than 7 amps on high beam. Apparently Hyundai runs other electrical items off that 10 amp fuse, or possibly flashing the high beams with the low beams on engages both for a total of 11.2 amps.

    Bottom line: You can't increase the wattage of your high beams without bumping the fuse rating up to 15 amps, which I don't recommend. I don't know if the wiring can handle the increase power.

    I did the same mod to my Daewoo Nubira with no problems.
  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    i wouldnt buy anything from JC whitney if i were you. All their products are rejects. i ordered a cellphone holder from them. the thing cracked and broke. i wouldnt get those light bulbs if i were you....they may be ok now but it could short out your electrical system. i recommend PIAA plasma bulbs. they are like zenons (spelling) like the BMW's and mercedes have. the closest to zenon lights out there. they are brighter but made by the best company for lights out there. I got PIAA driving lights on my elantra and they are excellent. the plasma bulbs are about $70 bucks.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    Congratulations on purchasing your new Hyundai! The next few weeks are very important for performing
    the new car "Break-In". Your car is made of thousands and thousands of pieces, all fitting together
    tightly with very small clearances. The way you treat your new car for the first 1000 miles will determine
    a lot about the rest of its life. To help make certain your new car last as long as possible, here are some
    very important tips for breaking in your new car. Please also read your owner's manual and follow the
    manufacture's recommendations as well. The break-in period lasts for the first 1000 miles, although the
    first miles are the most important.

    Change your oil at 1000 miles.
    The new engine and its parts are getting to know each other very well, and small pieces of metal
    are worn off during the first 1000 miles. These small pieces are normal - all engines do this.
    Change engine speed often.
    The engine should not be kept at a constant speed during the break-in period. Change speed
    every 5-10 minutes, slow down a few mph or speed up a few mph. This is most important for the
    first few hundred miles.
    Do not use cruise control for first 1000 miles.
    The engine's speed should not be kept constant for long periods of time during the break-in. Avoid
    the use of cruise control.
    Avoid Hard Sudden Stops.
    This is difficult since you rely greatly on other drivers to not cause a situation where you need to
    stop suddenly. Sudden stops can cause new brakes to not settle properly, shortening their life.
    Try to always maintain a large distance between you other cars, to help prevent sudden stops.
    Avoid Jack-Rabbit Starts.
    Flooring the gas pedal and taking off may sound fun, but it's a quick way to shorten the life of your
    engine. Jack-Rabbit starts should never be performed, but it is very important to not do them
    during the break-in period.
    Manual Transmissions should be kept in the correct gear. Do not allow the engine to lug (having
    the engine in too high a gear for the speed).
    Automatic Transmissions should have the over-drive turned off when going below 35 mph (the
    switch is located on the shifter knob). Keeping the over-drive off below 35 mph keeps the RPM's
    higher, making certain the engine is hot enough to burn fuel and waste correctly. This is more
    important on 4-cylinder engines and should be used throughout the cars life. This will help keep
    the engine clean.
    Do not race the engine.
    Racing the engine is never good, and even worse during the break-in period. Racing the engine
    can cause seals to settle incorrectly, causing problems down the road.
    Keep the speed low under 60 mph.
    This is more important for the first couple hundred miles. Try not to go over 60 mph.
    Take a short trip.
    Taking a short trip is a great way to break in your new car. Driving on the interstate in the slow
    lane allows you to quickly get the most important first few hundred miles completed. Driving on
    the interstate will also avoid traffic lights (stopping and starting) and allow you to vary your speed.
  • Yep! Problems are presents on Elantras, even if everybody here seem to be really pleased with it, mine is haunted.

    1- Like described on topic #75, at night, the dial itself light up when they are dimmed at mid-intensity and when engine revs up on kick-down. It happens only when A/C is on. Any idea about it? The prob still remains on my car

    2- Manifold cracked, intoxicating my family with carbon monoxid. I suppose to be the only one in Canada who have change that piece on 1996-2000 Elantra generation. Wow! I'm glad to know that

    3- A/C works so-so. After a half hour use, it push a cool puff of air, then push a warm humid puff... Then the cycle begins:cool-warm-cool-warm... Now, i don't use A/C cause it it too much frustating. And, despite 4-5 dealership visits, the prob still be with the car. Any idea about it?

    4- Other minor probs, they have to change a shock absorber on right rear side, two tail gate schock on the hatch,, and, what else.. the alternator slacked on its bracket in the first week, leaving me stucked aside the road (my love story has beginned there) and automatic tranny slips one a month, even the recall serviced on my car. Bulbs blows like pop corn on this car.

    Unfortunately, there is no lemon law in Quebec Province and i can't return back that devil's creature. So i have to keep that crap till the lease contract will be over. I,m sad about the poor quality of this car cause it's a good family car, providing a good comfort, good gas efficiency regardless the potential power of the engine and a delightful sure paw on the road. But it will be my first and last Hyunday
  • Nice advice. I am not clear about two points:
    race the engine?
    Short trip? (noone likes to take long one if there is a short trip)

    Also, can you tell me what does rear spoiler do?
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    Racing the engine is just running the engine at high rpm, like flooring the gas pedal when the car is in park. The spoiler mostly looks good and does nothing else on most production cars. On sports cars the spoiler puts more down force on the rear end of the car at high speeds. This makes the car more stable and handle better at these high speeds. The Elantra probably will never get up to the speed that the spoiler will work. This is because the spoiler on the Elantra is pretty small. the car makers seem to be putting spoilers on everything now, but they are much more show then go.

  • What's a pity that I cannot read baber's words days ago. I just finished a long trip and made my new elantra's milage up to 1,200 miles. I kept 75mph in interstate for hours. And seems I didn't obey most of the rulers you mentioned.

    I want to know, anything I can do now to make my car's break-in better(though it is a little late now). Thanks.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    We have a 99 Accent and 99 Elantra. My Wife's Elantra was broken in according to the advice I posted, but my Accent was driven a lot at a constant 50 mph or so on my long 100 mile a day commute to work. Both cars run perfect now, the Elantra has 15,000 miles, the Accent has 32,000. Both cars don't burn or use a drop of oil. The only difference is that the Accent took a little longer to break in then the Elantra. The Elantra ran great after about 1,000 miles but the Accent didn't really break in till about 3,000 miles. You should change your oil and filter now (I use 100% synthetic) and drive it a few more thousand miles according to those instructions. As the engine breaks in, it will feel like it has more power and will get better gas mileage too. Enjoy your new car and don't worry.
  • cnn2cnn2 Posts: 2
    Hi everyone,

    This morning when I started my 2000 elantra, the car body has a little bit noticable shaking back and forward, and the red light "check engine" was on, and it continued on during my 20 minutes drive to work, I stopped on the road and restart the car and the "check engine" light was still on, I don't know what's wrong. Anyone can help? (just had a car wash yesterday, can that be the problem?)

    Just had 15,000 miles maintainance service couple of weeks ago, they found out that the auto transmission fluid leaks and fixed that, so far that is the only problem. The other minor problem is that the left passenger door won't unlock with either remote keyless or master control on driver's door, haven't ask dearler yet, anyone has similar problem??

    thanks in advance, any input will be appreciated.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    The most comman cause of a check engine light is a loose gas cap. Make sure the gas cap is tight and "clicks" a few times as you tighten it. If the gas cap is ok, I would check the transmission fluid since you had the trans serviced recently. You might have a water in the wiring problem too. If nothing helps, bring it to the dealer, you can have them fix the door locks too.
  • cnn2cnn2 Posts: 2
    Thanks a lot baber. I still can't find out the problem. The gas cap was tight, the transmission fluid level is normal, however, I don't know what "water in the wire" mean and how can I remove it if there is water? Can you explain further?

    I called the dealership service department but they said if the car still runs fine then their earliest appointment available is 8 days from today. I wonder if the "check engine" light continues on while driving could cause any damage to the engine and all.

    I had the 2000 elantra since last Nov., the first $15000 miles the baby was doing exceptional (runs great, high gas mileage, quiet engine, name it, :),it was never late on oil change (first oil change at 750 miles) and maintainance service, and I was very very satisfied with its overall performance. However, now the problem seems coming one after another: auto transmission fluid leaking, passenger door won't "power" lock/unlock, and now "check engine" problem....
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