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Comments
I've been told that the difference between the STS and the SLS is indeed the cam and the SLS has a "slower" transaxle - it doesn't have the 3.71. Actually, when you look at the power curves for the STS and SLS, the 275 HP SLS has more HP and torque throughout most of the RPM range. The STS just peaks higher at the very high rpms for HP only. I really wonder if the 3.71 in an SLS would not be quicker than a stock STS. I really think it might. If you factor the 4.0 for size, it would put out about 288 HP and 299 ft-lbs of torque if it was a 4.6. It's really kind of got the best of both worlds of the STS and SLS engine when looking at power and torque/cu. in. I'm assuming the heads are basically the same here as well, and I would not wager anything on that assumption.
These engines are really very similar with slight differences in the cam and the 4.0 just has a smaller bore. Most everything else is the same.
The 4.0 is just a great engine, perhaps one of GM's all time best to date. The fun thing is that there is some extra power potential in these engines because they are literally "bottled up" at the induction and exhaust to keep the noise down at all rpm's. I've noticed some better performance by opening up the air box and then using a K&N to take advantage of the better box. When the warranty is out, I'm opening the bottom of the box even bigger by cutting the metal underneath. Maybe the performance is in my head, but I do hope to get to the dyno one of these days to experiment. I've also ordered the Granatelli mass air flow meter. They claim 10 to 15 HP at the rear wheels. They have graphs of the 5.7 in the Escalade gaining 18 HP at the wheels. I'll be happy if the 10 is true for the Aurora 4.0. My hopes of improved performance are as follows:
Improved air box with K&N - 5 min. at wheels
Mass air flow sensor - 10 min. at wheels
Cat back exhaust - 10 to 15 at wheels
Total - 25 HP to 30HP at wheels.
25HP/0.8 or 30/0.8 (losses) = 31 to 38 HP at the engine (for reference)
If torque is increased similarly, then you could look at it as a 280 to 288 HP and 290+?? torque Aurora.
I know you really can't add them because the improvements might not generate the increase at the same rpm, but the performance should be there just the same.
I don't think this is a radical change, and I think the increased performance could be realized without the computer interfering.
It has 177000 highway miles.
Just recently, the transmision is now stuck in second gear while in drive, and will not shift up into any other gear rendering the car undriveable.
My local dealer estimates the repair of anywheres
from $400to$4000 dollars to repair.
They are uncertain of the real problem, all they seam to want to do is sell me a different car; giving me a trade in of $1000 (not!!!) They won't give me a straight answer; I feel they know that it might be a simpler problem than what it really is and want this car, the tech seams quite interested in it, I don't want to sell it!! I want to drive it and keep this unique vehical!!!
The transmision was recently flushed by another AURORA dealer within the last 3 months if this helps at all.
Any help or direction to save this incredible automobile from service diaster would be greatly appreciated.(do you know any tricks I could do)
I am capable of doing most of the work myself, also, if anyone has info on where I could locate good repair manuals (dealer manuals) that would also help.
Sounds like that dealer just wants the car. How has the service been from the rest of the car during the 177,000? Curious.
If you did replace it with the stock air shock, did it bounce less after.
Thanks for any help
I also had to have the alternator changed out due to a "ghosty" sound attributed to a bearing failure. Although I had 51K on the car, it was covered under warranty. Pretty happy with my olds dealer - too bad I won't be able to buy a car from them when I am due.
Zinc- Thanks for info on RPM @ 139. Our car shuts down @ 108 or so (non-autobahn).
My recommendation on battery replacement would be to stick with AC Delco. They are the only batteries I've ever owned that made it to or exceeded their "rated" life. ie 60 months, 72 months.
It appears that most of the owners report oil consumption between changes. Maybe we're just lucky, but no oil consumption between changes.
Our 98 now has over 32,000 miles (was purchased 0n 12-30-00 with just over 19,000 miles).
No other maintenance problems. We did replace tires at around 23-24 K because one of the originals was beginning to come apart.
I changed dealers for servicing my Aurora (because my water pump seized and died in my driveway a couple of weeks ago, and it made sense to have it towed to the dealership that was 1 mile away, as opposed to the one 10 miles away where I bought the car). The new dealership is fantastic. Not only did they fix the water pump in half a day, when I had the car in for service this week, they did a complete replacement of my rear window external seal and clip (the other dealer had just glued the clip on 3 times, and each time it came undone within a month).
They are also fixing my "horn sensitivity" problem... just touching the center part of the steering wheel causes the horn to sound. The previous dealer never looked at it, just said there was nothing they could do. I think it helped that, before I even talked to the service adviser, when he was in the car trying to get the mileage, he touched the steering wheel and honked the horn, and just about jumped through the roof. It didn't take much to convince him that it needed to be fixed, so they're replacing the whole airbag (of course, they have to wait for the airbag assembly to ship UPS ground because explosive devices can't be flown in :-)
--Robert
P.S. If anyone reading this is in the Milwaukee area, I'd suggest avoiding Renner Olds for service, and going to Kuettner Olds/GMC... night and day difference.
Just got back from a trip to the northwest, talked my way into a Buick Regal at the rental counter. Looked nice at first, comfy leather, nice stereo, peppy response to the throttle, tight steering, and only 6,000 miles on it. Didn't take but 30 miles to be annoyed at all the road noise inside the car, not much longer till the plastic rattles could be heard above the stereo. Drove her 600 miles round trip and sure did wish I had my 95 instead. The best was today, with no time to spare to make my flight, pack the car, buckle up, and the battery is dead.
And I worry that my 95 is old and that with 62,000 miles on her trouble could be just around the corner. Have even been looking at later models with low mileage thinking I should trade up, but either the color is not for me or I notice loose trim or hanging window seals. And, I like not making car payments.
Well, tonight when I fired up the 95 and left the airport it made that Buick Regal seem like a Geo Metro. By comparison, the 95 didn't seem old at all. Just goes to show that when it came to the build of the Aurora, GM definitely did it better.
By the way, air travel was smoother than ever, definitely more serious, but no delays, late baggage, or snippy airline attendants. Guess it helps when they don't operate way beyond capacity and suddenly realize that the customer is essential to their survival. If only my local Olds dealer understood that. LOL
Stay safe and enjoy.
When driving very slow and making a turn (like into your driveway or garage) I feel a slight vibration sometimes. I have wondered about the power steering because of this. I never feel this in traffic.
So, is this the washboarding? Should I indeed have something done about it?
I have discussed it with 2 different dealerships and have had the tires balanced a dozen times to no avail.
As soon as the warranty was up, about an hour after I brought it in I got "the phone call" indicating that it was a power steering hose. I asked them to check their records because I had discussed this with them before. I also asked that they contact the zone rep. to see if this shouldn't be covered under warranty. To their credit the hose and a new alternator (old one had a bearing going out) were approved to the tune of about 712 bucks.
Apparently the original hose is too short and a replacement part was installed - and worked. I asked if there was a TSB on the problem and he said there was.
However, I still have a vibration at 60 mph - 80 mph that they attribute to "high spots" on the tires.
Can't complain about my dealer he has treated me decently.
Coincidentally, my mother-in-law's Aurora had its water pump fail (last Election evening :-) with 34,900 miles on it. I'm wondering if that's a trend. At least both were covered under warranty.
Hey taurich, if you still have your repair/work order, can you list the part number for the power steering hose? I'll get this fixed when I get my airbag module replaced.
Re: the TSB on the steering, there are actually 2:
Make: OLDSMOBILE Model: AURORA Year: 1998
Service Bulletin Number: 990232008 Bulletin Sequence Number: 837 Date of Bulletin: 09/99
NHTSA Item Number: SB608379
Component: STEERING
Summary:
SOME CUSTOMERS MAY COMMENT ABOUT A STEERING SHUDDER DURING SLOW SPEED TURNING / PARKING MANEUVERS. *TT
Make: OLDSMOBILE Model: AURORA Year: 1998
Service Bulletin Number: 990232008A Bulletin Sequence Number: 193 Date of Bulletin: 05/01
NHTSA Item Number: SB619379
Component: STEERING
Summary:
SOME CUSTOMERS MAY COMMENT ABOUT A STEERING SHUDDER DURING SLOW SPEED TURNING / PARKING MANEUVERS. *TT
Hope this helps someone,
--Robert
Hammen2 - thanks for the service info on the shudder. I'll call the dealer about it. Maybe I should address this as long as the warranty is still going. It's really minor, but hey, if it can be eliminated I'll do it.
I ran the 98 autobahn on the dyno to see what the air induction improvements really did. This is what I tested:
Baseline - Stock air box with new paper filter:
189/190 HP and 204 ft-lbs torque (at the rear wheels)
New K&N in a stock air box: +7 to peak HP!
+4 to peak torque.
(this is 3.7% better. K&N claimed 2 to 4% increase, so hats off to K&N!)
The K&N basically lifted the whole HP and torque curve in its basline shape with a little extra boost in some places. Between 5300 rpm and 5800 the torque curve was +6 and +7. I'm not sure much was done for the low end torque - I think just 2. The torque curve was fattened up or flatened out at the higher rpms. There was 3 and 4 more HP past 4000 rpms all the way to about 5200 where it opened up to +7 from 5360 to about 5720.
Modified air box with new K&N: +1 Peak HP(at best)
+3 Peak torque
The air box mods affected power differently. While the peak HP barely increased, there was about 2 to 4 more HP past 4000 rpm, and between 4640 and 4870, the HP was up +6. In short, the HP curve was much fatter with more power throughout the rpm range - just not much at the peak. In fact, at about 4800, the HP seems to be 8 to 10 greater than stock! So this was much better than it seems from just looking at peak HP. The torque was equally impressive. In that same range - 4640 to 4870, torque was up +6 to +8!! For some reason, the air box mod takes the peak of the torque curve and simply extends it out another 230 or so rpms before tailing off like the stock curve and the K&N only curve.
In short, the total mods give +8 peak HP, +7 torque, and as much +8 or +9 torque in other areas of the curve. The increases can be seen throughout the curves as well.
Dividing these rear wheel increases by what seems to be efficiency of .76 for HP and .785 for torque, you get over 10 peak HP and 9 more peak torque with 11 or so more torque in other parts of the curve. This is of course engine HP for reference. The wheels is what counts.
Maybe I'll dyno the mass air flow sensor, and the cat back too when I get them. I do see a need to remove those lateral braces on the top of the air box on the one side. There is probably a lot of turbulence from it. I'll smooth out the sharp edge on the circular opening too. Also, the bottom of the box could be opened up much bigger.
I hope this is of some interest to some of you.
Why would your take your measurements at the rear wheels on a front wheel drive car?????
I am surprised and impressed by the amount of increase for the K&N; I didn't figure the increase would actually be higher than advertised. This helps explain my 7.4-second 0-60 times.
I am not surprised by the increases due to your air box modifications, as I have observed the same intake restriction problems. Keep up the good work! I'm still trying to find a used air box so I can make similar modifications; money is too tight right now to buy a new one.
Has anyone tried the MSD DIS-4 multiple discharge ignition?
My gas gauge has become inaccurate. When the tank is filled, the gauge indicates full. At about 1/2 tank, the gauge "floats" between full and empty, sometimes going from one to the other in 10 seconds, than back again. I assume the problem is the sender in the tank. Does anyone have experience with this problem?
Does anyone know of GM dealers who sell parts at less than MSRP?
blk97aurora - My 97 also had the same problem with the gas gauge. It did turn out to be the sending unit. I had it replaced under warranty. If I remember correctly the new unit was around $500.00.
Speaking of warranty, my extended factory warranty will be up soon. What is the consensus for the best non-factory warranty?
Had an interesting experience on my way home from work today. Stopped at red light in left lane. Bright red 2001 V6 Cougar pulls up on right. Light turns green and we both hit it. I had 3/4 car-length lead until I shut down to turn left into my development. As the driver passed me, his arm emerged from the car and gave me a "thumbs up." Or was it another finger? Road and Track lists the V6 Cougar at 7.8 seconds 0-60.
Jimr and Blk97 check out the curves and note the big boost of power between 4600 rpm and 4900 rpm. The total gain in that range I estimate to be about +10 HP in some spots and +10 ft-lbs of torque. And remember this is at the wheels. The peak numbers are increased a total of +8 HP and +7 torque, but that is really only half the story. The added power throughout the power curves by making both improvements is great for such simple improvements. I need to get a print out of the baseline plotted against both improvements together for the 3rd gear run. I do have this comparison shown for all three gears - but it turns out to be on a smaller scale.
I will add the mass air flow sensor in the near future and will probably dyno it. Then I will do the cat-back exhaust system and probably dyno that too. I'm still hoping for a 290 HP, 300 ft-lb Aurora that is still internally stock. If the other two improvements live up to their claims, it will happen and maybe more.
Oh yeah, eventually, I'm going to open that hole in the bottom of the box much bigger. You will notice that with the stock air box, there is a power drop in torque and HP at 4600 rpm. The air box mod delays that drop out to 4900 and gives way more power under the curve/better acceleration. Perhaps further enlarging the bottom opening will push this back farther or eliminate it all together.
Who makes a cat-back system for the aurora and how much is it?
Does anyone have that book or the one below it?
Also check out http://www.corsaperf.com They will be starting on a cat-back system for the Aurora in hopefully a month. They are at 800-486-0999 They are recommended by Wheel to Wheel (they do a lot of GM pace cars). They currently have a Caddy system that adds about 20 HP at the wheels. The stainless steel system for the Aurora will be about $1,000. Yes - expensive. I talked to a guy that has one on an STS (his was the car Corsa used) He originally thought he would want it taken off, but loves it. Lots of extra power, and it is not loud and rude at normal driving and highway driving. Cat backs seem hard to come by for the Aurora, and when Corsa does it, they may be almost the only game in town except for RSM racing.
That's about all I know. If these things live up to their claims, the Aurora will really smoke.
I kind of think that book you are linking to may be for literal racing and involve internal modifications.
I did the spark plug (and wires) replacement on my '95. It really wasn't that bad. The front ones were cake, the rears required removing that plastic overhang vacuum thing that's screwed to the firewall. (I also had to remove the engine beauty cover.) Besides that, I just used 2 different extensions (a 3" and a 6") and a regular socket. With a little patience, the job was done. I also did the EGR valve while I was at it. My dealer wanted $540 to do the job, it cost me $102 and about 4 hours of time. Now I'm set for another 100,000 miles! Thanks guys for the advice earlier!
-Steve
I haven't had this problem on an Aurora, but it sounds like fuel filter/fuel pump problems I've had on other cars. Since you've replaced the filter, I would look at testing the pump.
I suppose it could also be a bad plug wire....
GM is on drugs. I also changed my plugs to Bosch Plus 4. I haven't had a problem since.
RSM also has a larger throttle body for better induction, and they have a cat-back system that includes a larger catalytic converter too. I'm not sure the bigger converter is a good idea either. Lowering the exit velocity too much can decrease scavanging of the engine and hurt low end torque. I'm not even sure it is legal with the new converter. Magnaflow has high flow converters, but only up to 95. They said their converters were not legal for the Aurora from 96 to present.
I'm sticking with a traditional cat-back system.
I'm not sure there will ever be a decent computer upgrade. The guys here have run across a couple, but nothing that sounded like a true micro tuner that would download the stock OBD2 program and load a performance program. On the Caddyinfo.com site, I read that http://www.x-m-s.com extreme motor sports is supposedly working on a computer programmer/upgrade for all northstars. Who knows. Maybe I should call and check.
Garnes - I'm told http://www.jetchip.com has a PCM for the 95-99 Aurora, part number 68003, for $260 but no one that I know of has bought one
When I turn off my stereo, the surging is not as bad. I have aftermarket amps and stuff, so my current draw is somewhat high from that, but my engine shouldn't be misfiring because of it. Could I have a bad coil or plugs maybe? Had new plugs put in 10k miles ago, but that's about all I can think of unless it's fuel related.