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Oldsmobile Aurora

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Comments

  • Hey all - does anyone know the Part # to order replacement steering wheel lights (temp, volume, etc.) for a 2001 Aurora? If you don't know the GM part number, I'd also welcome any other replacement suggestions. Would Advance Auto (or similar) be a good place to look for these small bulbs?

    I appreciate your help. I've been pressing the wrong buttons and would love to see them at night again!

    - Dave
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    Dave,

    I get my stuff from the local Cadillac dealer.

    Jack
  • stickking1,

    Nice looking Aurora. I have a '96, pearl colored and she is a great car.

    I don't suppose you have any detailed instructions about replacing the master cylinder. (You talked about it in the post) I am pretty sure I am going to have to get mine replaced, I am just hopeful that I may be able to perform the job myself.

    Thanks,

    Brian
  • im sorry but i havent done that yet i sorry im no help but ty
  • My car is being weird. I have a 2001 Old's Aurora and have had this problems for months. The one mechanic thinks that it might be something to do with the security key. maybe once a week it will do this I put key in ignition and turn and nothing happens. All my gadgets come on and have even replaced the battery. I wait maybe at the most a minute try again and then it will start......???
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    The primary ignition keys (two keys and two keyless entry "remotes") for the car have a security chip in them, and perhaps yours is acting up (since the car eventually starts). Try using your second primary ignition key that came with the car. If the car doesn't act up with the second, you have found your problem.

    I'd do a search on this forum. Bet you are not the only one who has had this problem.

    Jack
  • I know you have to depress brake, however sometime the button will not press in to allow you to shift out of park. Where do you need to lube to keep the button from sticking. I have a 95 aurora.
    After depressing brake hard multiple times, I can eventually get the button to depress to allow shifting, but wanted to lube so I don't keep having this problem.
  • My great running '97 Aurora has 121K on the odometer. The transmission fluid life indicator still reads 100%. Is this common or just my car? No other electrical problems or screwy readouts.

    The drive axles do vibrate above 68 mph; at least nothing else could be doing the vibes. front end is tight, wheels and tires balances, bearings good, (it keeps me from speeding) !
  • Brinwood,

    I have owned my '97 for over nine years and followed posts on Edmunds and other boards. I have never seen anyone report trans fluid life less than 100%.

    Are your tires/wheels balanced accurately? I had a vibration problem with a set of W-rated tires that were balanced at what I considered a reputable tire store. Because Auroras are very sensitive to tire balance and stiffness, I took my car to a front-end shop that has a Hunter road-force balance machine. Turns out road force was fine -- the measurements on my four wheel/tire assemblies ranged from 2 to 9; the shop guy said he had never seen such low (good) measurements. If the numbers are 27 or higher, they will remount the tires on the wheels to match high and low spots.

    The problem turned out to be bad balance -- one wheel/tire was off by 3/4 ounce.

    Hope this helps.

    Les
  • dmphildmphil Posts: 5
    Motor always starts instantly when engine is cold, also you can let it run for 30 seconds or a minute as long as you don't allow the engine to warm up much and it always starts instantly regardless of the elapsed time. However, if you go for a short drive, motor reaches operating temperature and you are away from the car for 20 min. to 2 hrs., it will then crank for 3 seconds to 7 or 8 seconds before it starts, after which it works fine. NOTE: crank shaft sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, plugs and spark plug wires have been replaced with no change in this pattern of cranking. This was done within the last 3 weeks. The car has 137,000 miles on it, and works great when running.
  • The systom you describe could be caused by a leaking fuel pressure regulator. There could be other causes.

    Les
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Hi folks,

    Long time, no post. Still have my black/black loaded Autobahn '98. 121k miles and still going strong (knock on wood). Had an alternator fail on the road in March of '07, and the less-than-competent (AAA-approved) mechanics, in replacing it, caused a number of issues (over-torqued lugs, warping the right front rotor, then the radiator leaked, tranny cooler line was also mangled, then the replacement alternator failed (under warranty, they replaced),and they screwed up the power steering pump and pulley... and then the r/f strut started rattling...). Got all of that stuff resolved, and the car is running fine now. I did have to replace my FPR again (that causes the "warm start" problem mentioned above). Only problem with my girl is cosmetic... the clear coat is failing on the roof and trunk lid (my car had to be buffed 2-3x due to paint overspray problems at a place next to my work, and one of the shops that did it also burned through the paint on the edges of the hood and the trunk). Latest minor quirk is the auto headlights not always coming on or staying on (everything's fine if I turn them on manually) - I suspect the sensor might be toast. Recharged the A/C last summer...

    Still hoping to drive the old girl for another winter next year (my "toy" is one of the modern Holden-designed and built Pontiac GTO's - which I drive mostly in the summer - the Aurora is the winter car). The GTO is nearly paid for, but I'd like to go for a little while with no car payments... although I suspect the wife will be wanting a Camaro 'vert when they come out, and I'll probably end up with a G8 GT at some point in the next 12-18 months... I don't think I can part with the Aurora, however (considering having a friend do a restoration... other than the paint, there's no rust on the body, just the frame)...
  • dmphildmphil Posts: 5
    Thanks for your info. During that time, did your car start fast every time when it was cold? Also, did you ever have to replace the key or the tumbler/ If so, did this affect the starting problem? I have had a security alarm which shows up occasionally and then disappears. A mechanic seems to think it is probably the cause of the slow start when warm versus the problem being the fuel pressure . regulator. I tend to agree with the fuel pressure regulator being the problem.

    Darrell
  • dmphildmphil Posts: 5
    Thanks for your info. During that time, did your car start fast every time when it was cold? Also, did you ever have to replace the key or the tumbler/ If so, did this affect the starting problem? I have had a security alarm which shows up occasionally and then disappears. A mechanic seems to think it is probably the cause of the slow start when warm versus the problem being the fuel pressure . regulator. I tend to agree with the fuel pressure regulator being the problem.

    Darrell
  • nlelnlel Posts: 1
    I am also having that problem. When the mechanic tried lubrication, it ate away at the lower half of the button...what did you do to solve the problem? Please advise! Thanks.
  • I lubed under the hood cable that goes to the transmission for shifting. It seems to have helped, however it sticks still some times. I also sprayed w-2 40 into space around button when I finally got it depressed. ( I don't know what lube your mechanic would have used to partially disolve the button)

    I found that if you take off the emergency break, press hard on break petal and firmly hold in on the button (on shifter) , it will soon release. Don't just press it, you may have to hold for a short time. It works for a while that sticks sometimes, but will release after procedures I outlined.
    I have not had a chance to look further at lube points, but I think it relates to the safety feature that keeps you from shifting without pressing on break. I was hoping someone that has more experience with this issue would answer. I asked the former olds dealer service dept, however they did not seem to have experience with this problem.

    I have found someone belonging to this site generally have solved a lot of common problems. One I had was fuel door would no longer release by pushing fuel button on dash. I was advised to put one drop of 30 weight oil on plunger that releases door, that was 2 years ago, no problems.
    Good luck and I will advise if I have to dig further into this issue.

    Please let me know if this helps and also if you get any more information on this issue.
    Don
  • ya i have a 1997 olds aurora and it always says 100% trans fluid life also...i'm pretty sure it's just a mess up in the system
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    I own a 98 Autobahn and know of no one whose DIC's "transmission fluid life" ever reads below 100%. If you read the owner's manual, the first scheduled fluid change under normal operating conditions is 150,000 miles. Nonetheless, at 104,000 miles I have changed mine 3 times (30k, 60k, and 90k) and the trans runs as smoothly as the day I got the car.
  • soxysoxy Posts: 1
    For i) (indicator light burnout), how do you get to the light bulb in the 95 aurora to replace it?
  • I was wondering how you reset the computer to read miles and farenheit instead of kilometers and celcius? Also when starting you have to give it a little gas and crank for like 15 seconds tostart, and when it does start it surges slightly and has a miss at takeoff from dead stop. could it be plugs needing changing? I didnt hear any air leaks when i checked today
  • cmalvarezcmalvarez Posts: 1
    I bought a Aurora 95 as is with some problems.

    First windows are not working not a single one and I already change the braker for a new one ( $ 10.45 from a GMC dealer) no change. I'm wondering if anybody knows how to check the main window switch.

    Also the power mirror are not working braker fine.

    AC was working but no more (?)

    power sunroof not working either.

    I love the car runs like rocket but I'm scare of the electrical, I would like to restore it already all the seats done and rug, any suggestions please to solve the mistery. Thank you.
  • bat078bat078 Posts: 2
    try sliding back the rubber that hold the wire bundle going to the drivers door and look for broken wires. this is a common problem.
  • Hey Bob,
    I am having this exact problem with my 99. Did you ever figure out what was causing the issue. I am pulling my hair out.. ARRR
    Please help if you have even a clue.
    Thanks
  • is the horn loacted behind the shield in the drivers side (left) front wheel well?
  • So.. I just completed repairing the Multifunction switch. Unforturnately for me the "contact cleaner" solution didn't work so I had to take the switch out and clean out the grease. Switch works like a charm now but after reinstalling, and hooking everything back up I turned the key and the horn started blaring. Not the honk, honk, honk of the anit-theft but HHHOOOOOOOONNNNNKKKK until I pulled the relay under the hood. It seems to be related to the key chip because all was good after I inserted the key, all was good as I unlocked the steering column, all went south in a hurry as I turned the key to start the engine. BTW the engine started just fine but the horn would not shut off.
    I'm starting to wonder if I screwed up the re-assembly but I checked everything against my 98 (I have two classics, a 96 with the horn issue and a 98) and all seems well.

    Anyone have any ideas?
  • I discovered the issue. The "pin" on the front of the multifunction switch that is supposed to make contact with the metallic cam on the steering column was out of place. Without the electrical contact the circuit had a dead short causing the horn to blow. Small fix to correct a bent pin, re-install and all works.
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    Good stuff. Thanks for the problem, the fix, the new problem, and the fix of that one as well. Ghosts are not entirely responsible for these electrical gremlins after all!!!!!! :)
  • Greetings all, sure glad I found this forum. I inherited my Father in laws' 2001 Aurora last August. He lived in Southern California. With 80k on the speedo and not a ding on the body, I decided to keep her and moved the car to Idaho where I live. All was good until the weather changed for the colder. Occasionally, while driving in the cooler temps the car will warn that the engine is too hot and to shut off the AC. I assume it's talking about the "auto" button for temp control on the dash. I disengage the "auto" button and within 30-seconds the temp gage needle lowers back to the normal range. What the heck is that? A visible inspection of the radiator, hoses and fluids reveal everything is OK. 3-times now this has happened with no obvious regards to any sort of pattern. I can drive the Aurora for weeks and nothing will happen, then like turning on a switch "click" it will misbehave...Any suggestions, ideas or comments? Like most of you. I truly love the car and would like to continue driving her for many years to come.
    Thanks, Kevin
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    Thermostats are something everyone thinks of, but only when they start acting up sporadically or they don't work at all. Cheap and easy to repace on a relative basis. Might be worth it just to swap it out if the original one is in there, and it probably is. Good luck!
  • I have a 2001 aurora with the 4.0. At start up on cold days the idle pluses up and down. When in gear at an idle it will cause the car to lurch. However the problems seems to leave after the car warms up or at higher rpm. Any ideas what my problem is?
  • Did the first generation Aurora have cloth seats in it? My husband is looking for one with cloth seats.
  • eg98eg98 Posts: 9
    Forgot about this forum for a few years. The '98 is still on the road! My wife uses it as her daily commute (very short -- about 5km or so) and it is still running OK. I put a used transmission in her last Spring. The shop had some digging to do because it had the funny top end gear.

    All the hubcaps are gone now. I never replaced the first one that was lost and haven't bothered with any others since.

    I am currently driving a '00 Lincoln LS V8, which is a nice rear-drive alternative to the old Aurora as a highway cruiser.

    Keep on rollin', Aurora drivers! :)
  • bbaker3bbaker3 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Olds Aurora horn does not work checked power at horn(none) there is power on one side of relay but does not appear to be getting power to switch it on. pulled center of steering wheel off it seems to be a switch in behind air bag but I do not want to just disassemble or anything and risk airbag going off. do i need a whole new center piece to the steering wheel? Also - now the airbag light is on at dash and DIC Any input?
  • diggyonediggyone Posts: 1
    I am burning fuel 2mpg i replaced the fuel regulator and the sollenoid canister the cat convertor the car loads up i have no power i use onky 93 octane i am thinking maybe the throttle contorl sensor this has been going on for a few weeks it happened all sudden its a 95 so most computers will not connect to it when i did have it read it said ignition code 084 so a mechanic said the regulator check engine lights come on still after it was cleard what else can i do
  • jhr81134jhr81134 Posts: 1
    i am about to buy a '95 aurora with 180000 miles nothing seems to be wrong except the rear passenger window wont roll down it also jumps and makes a noice only when put into drive the man said it only needs a motor mount in the back its the v8 northstar engine and its only 1400
  • rovehroveh Posts: 3
    I have a '99 Olds Aurora. Horn doesn't work. Safety inspection PAST DUE!! Got power direct to horns & they work. Sometimes horn didn't work when cigarette lighter fuse was blown but it is working fine. Changed fuse & relay under the hood. Still no toot. Guessing the problem is in the steering wheel pad. Got the cover & pad off but can't get to contacts due to air bag. HELP!!
  • thrak44thrak44 Posts: 4
    My 98 has 170.000 and I just did the starter motor, did the radiator and water pump about 3 years back that was about 90k other than that it has been a excellent vehicle, bought it with 50k in 2004 $9999 ;)
  • I own a 2001 4.0 aurora and recharged ac today passenger side was cold back was cold drivers side didn't get very cold now it's already warm again thruout car? What is wrong how much is itgonna cost to fix?,also did pressure test on coolant it's at 25 why?

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