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Oldsmobile Aurora



  • So how long till your ready to part with that 97 brochure. Forgot to mention that part of the 1/4 mile experience was a carshow which I entered in order to make the track runs. The Aurora won second place in the 90 to present class in the show and shine. First place went to a beautiful yellow convertible Prowler which didn't run on the track. I believe they have six cylinders and have no idea how fast they are.
  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    The new and improved prowler went from 214 h.p., to 250 h.p. in a 2800~ pound car. That's a pretty good power to weight ratio.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    But not great for a $50,000 two-seater convertible with no luggage room. You are basically paying for the image. It's the same motor as in the 300M. You'd get smoked by Mustangs and Camaros in one of those things. I guess you could pretend that dragging doesn't interest you, but then it might seem a bit odd that you'd have bought a car like the Prowler in the first place.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Y are we talking about Mopar here????
  • Henri - see my Garnes brochure post a few back, that's what started it.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Got the road force balance done on my '98 today. The original numbers were in the 50's on each tire - they did all 4, but were only able to get one (right front) at or below spec (spec is 10, it's at 5 - the rest are 37 (left front), 25 (right rear), and 33 (left rear). The Tire Centers service manager said the rims were fine, it's the tires (Dunlop SP Sport A2's) that are the problem here.

    I test-drove the car afterwards. Where I used to have a vibration between 65 and 74 mph (not that I travel that fast :-) :-) :-), now it's between 65 and 69, with still a bad shake at 67.

    I think it's time to talk to the dealer I purchased the Dunlops from (4 1/2 months and 7000 miles ago) to see what they can do for me. FYI, I paid $52.55 total for the balance, and they worked on it for over an hour...

  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    Maybe you have a busted chord or steel belt in your tire. ??? What about front end alignment?
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    I had the road force balance done on my suburban last week to fix the vibration. It took them over 2 hours and they had to switch which tires were on which rims and they also flipped some of them so the other sidewall was facing out. When all was said and done, Got them all 30 or less (which is ok for all-terrain tires) with 3 of them under 10. It just took them a lot of time to do it.

    I would say you should be able to get those tires that are out of spec replaced under warranty. Or at the very least, get the tire shop to pay for the cost of getting them matched up right. It's ridiculous that vibration is such a problem - tire quality should be higher than that with the advanced manufacturing stuff we have these days.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    From the little I picked up when I had my wheels done, it sounds like you have three tires that are way off the chart and absolutely no good. They were telling me that the limit was 16. After they were done I had two in the 5 range and the other two in the 10 range. Apparently I had two over 16 from the start. I'd definitely demand some new tires even if you get pro-rated for some of the use.

    I'm sorry to hear you are going through this. I know what it's like. Back and forth extreme hassles and all you want is your smooth ride back.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    OK, here is where I got mine:

    PJ's Auto Literature
    PO Box 233
    Reinbeck, IA 50669

    Phone 319-345-6760
    fax 319-345-9981

    Email & eBay User ID - [email protected]

    "35,000 different items"

    Musclecar97 - I think I want to hang on to my 97 for now because it has a larger and nicer print of the power curves than the 98. They are the exact same curve, but on the 98, it's reduced quite a bit smaller.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Actually, the manufacture of tires isn't all that advanced. The actual strips are still hand-laid. Pirelli introduced an automated machine recently than can make tires with much tighter tolerances. It was sort of a shake-up from the normal way of making them. I found it pretty surprising that the actual construction involved hand-labor so much. I'm sure the making of the compounds is pretty advanced and all, but apparently the construction isn't.

    Garnes, I'd hang on to it too. I wish I'd hung on to the 2001 brochure I had. It had neat-o onionskin pages in between each glossy page. They dropped it for 2002 probably to reduce the cost. The 2001 brochure was real slick while the 2002 is fairly ordinary.
  • My second set of tires, Yokohama AVIDs, are in need replacement.

    I have the autobahn package and of course have used the V rated tires.

    Has anyone used less expensive H rated on Auroras with the Autobahn pakage? Any drop in performance?

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I take it you mean handling when you say performance (i.e. driving performance).

    I am faced with that very same question now. Time to get rid of the Toyos (after 2 short years) and move along.

    My mechanic suggests Hankook tires.

    Thoughts opinions SWAGs????
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I take it that you did not like the Yokohamas. Please tell me your views on them since they were on my list of tires to consider.

    How many miles did you get out of them?
    Wet weather traction?
    snow traction?
    Give us the 411!
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I have been told that Michlin is having quality control issues with their tires and perhaps a Firestone would be a better choice over the Michelins.

    Is this true, or is it up there with the rear window makes the 95's and 96's hold the road better?

    See, not so gullible the second time around.
    I am still waiting to see the first pictures of the Aurora 442 edition.

    Smile smile smile
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Just to answer my own questions, I got about 2.3 years and 23K out of the Toyos. I thought the wet weather was good and the snow was okay. The car would only slide on straight ice and did okay in the snow.

    To be fair to the Toyos, they did meet the life expectancy of a Z rated tire. The guy at STS Tires told me to expect to have them about 2 years when I brought them. On dry pavement I was able to do some pretty extreme driving manuvers without fear.

    I am not buying them again because I do not want to be replacing my tires two years from now again (although the edition of the 17" Y2K wheels might make this point moot).

    Are ther any tires out there that anybody would NOT buy again for the Classic???

    I would like to know which tires made your crappy list.

    Thanks in advance,

  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    RJS - you should see the 97 & 98 brochure, or probably any for the classic. They are really nice. The 2001 or 02 is kind of cheezy by comparison.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    I'm currently rolling on 235/40 ZR18 Nitto eXtreme tires, no problems here I and had them for about 2 years, only used in summer though for about 6 or so months. For regular or everyday tires I'm thinking about buying some Dunlops or something along that way. Look for me at under "Javidogg". Peace.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    I put Dunlop SP Sport A2 tires on my '95 classic. It's got Autobahn and I have no problem with the tires at all. They have great grip in both dry/wet cornering and acceleration. I would buy them again without a second thought.

    You can see my initial thoughts (a few months ago) on the tires here.
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    I have a 2002 Aurora 4.0 with the 17" Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus...Green X tires. 235/55/R17 These are suppose to be an improvement over the previous version of this tire.

    These tires ride GREAT!!!! but do not hold up, read on...

    RJS knows my tale of the FIRST of these tires going bad on me when my wife BACKED UP 3 FEET and bumped a 4" curb at a local supermarket. It put a hole in the sidewall of the tire big enough to put 2 fingers thru. That replacement bill was around $200 since at the time there was not offered a add-on road hazard warranty at the dealership, since then I have bought road hazard add-on policy for $75.

    Yesterday at a intersection turning left, I was behind 2 cars turning left, I followed on left and a car was running the red light from the right had side of the crossing traffic. I had to stop and jump a small curb to avoid being hit broadside with my wife in the passenger seat, remember I had just come from a stop at the light and was not going fast at all maybe 5 mph if that.

    I pulled over to a parking lot just beyond the intersection to check both driver's side tires. The back seemed OK but the front had a BUBBLE protruding from the side wall. The dealer said it had split from the side wall, but it is still driveable.

    I will be replacing THIS tire today at an expense of $200 AGAIN. Needless to say, I will not be driving on Michelin tires as soon as these wear out. (If I get that far). I do not race or drive my new car fast or dangerous. I treat it with kid gloves. If I had been out driving fast or dangerous on either of these suitations, I would understand the tire crapping out but my wife is also a VERY safe driver.

    Has anyone else with the New Aurora had similiar problems???

    Thanks for listening...
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Man, that's pretty strange. I haven't had any probs with my tires. With about 11,000 miles on them, they appear to be wearing just fine. I could be a little more understanding of the front blow-out, though, because of the impressive amount of weight on them. There is about 1200 lbs on each front tire without the driver (who's weight is probably mostly on the fronts too). Whereas the rears only have about 700 lbs on them. I usually put an extra pound of pressure in the fronts (even though the factory recommendation is the same front to rear). Plus, I fill/check them in the garage, so that probably adds about a pound to each tire once they are outside (at least in the summer). So mine are essentially at 32/31psi F/R. However, that might actually increase the likelyhood of a blow-out from impact. Do you keep the pressures up higher than the recommendation?

    I guess I'll start making sure my spare is in good condition. Sorry to hear about your second blow-out... I can imagine it would be frustrating. Why is it $200? They are only $135 from the Tire Rack. With shipping and install I'd think $170 max. Plus, doesn't your road-hazard warranty cover it? If not, then you hardly need to have it. It seems your most common tire problem isn't covered by it...
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    RJS- I talked with Michelin and they sent me to a local dealer that does their warranty work. I called the tire dealer and he said that in most cases on new cars, the have a 15K grace period where they can at the Michelin's rep's OK give a replacement. We will see. More tomorrow.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    I still have the original Goodyear Eagle GA's (no autobahn) on my 98 Aurora. They have 50,000 except for the one the went flat and was replaced with a used Eagle GA. At 40,000 I expected to get to 50,000 and now I expect to get close to 60,000 or at least 55,000. I have not had any balance problems. Warped rotors are another matter though.
  • I know it's trivial, but I REALLY DON'T LIKE the stupid sound of the turn signal in my Classic. It sounds soooooo cheap. Does anyone know if there's a way to modify it to sounds differently?
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    mariposarosada - I've never heard of a turn signal sound being described as cheap - oh wait, yes, I'm sure there is at least one car review that criticized the sound of it along with the plasticy stuff.

    Try finding a Lexus in the bone yard and use their signal click sounder/whatever. I'm sure they have the definitive luxury sound for the turn signal. You know, that ES isn't just a fancy Camry, it's got the ultimate turn signal sound.

    If you get one from an LS, well that signal sound comes through the Levinson stereo system. It's so good you might leave it on for hours as you cruise down the highway on purpose. Ever see a Lexus with the signal on while cruising? - well that's why.

    Too bad GM can't get this right.

    Sorry - no offence. Just goofing. Couldn't resist.
  • rhale2rhale2 Posts: 8
    I removed my turn signal can, wrapped it in foam tape and put it back into the clip that holds it under the dash. It muffles the sound quite nicely.
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    RJS- I called Michelin 800 # and they referred me to a authorized dealer here in OKC.
    They adjusted out the tire for me. My part of the tire purchase being around $40. Then I had the front end re-aligned at a discount rate and the whole tab for today was $75.
    If I had just bought the new tire by itself, it would have been around $140 plus all of the ad-ons that go with the tire purchase, so you were right on your estimate of costs.
    I sent THAT bill into my "Road Hazard" insurance place for a full refund. The dealership was just going to replace the tire at NO pro-rating around $160, plus the other stuff.
    I also read on one of the other "Edmunds Boards" that most all new tires on new cars are different from the Replacement tires you buy at all of the tire dealers across the nation. The factory tires are built to a cheaper specs. sheet. The post said to go to the TPC code on the tire and look there.

    In answer to your questions: I run 30-31psi in tires. I check it weekly in the early morning hours before I drive it.

    Thanks for your help,
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Man, my security light came on, on my dash. I hope is nothing serious. The weird thing is that it just stays on, then after I finish driving and I park, then I'll come back turn on the car and the light will be off by now. Weird.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Man, my security light came on, on my dash. I hope is nothing serious. The weird thing is that it just stays on, then after I finish driving and I park, then I'll come back turn on the car and the light will be off by now. Weird.
  • I hear the Dunlops are good.

    FJK - I thought I had a warped rotor the way the car was thumping in the front. Either that or a bad cv joint. When I got new tires "Toyo's" and had them force balanced the other day all of the shaking, thumping and vibrations went away. Tires in balance and not internally breaking apart make a HUGE difference. My guess would be that the original tires you have are in need of replacement. Garnes posted about tires he had once on another car that the tread lasted forever.

    javidogg - The security light always comes on and flashes when you turn off the car, nothing to worry about.
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