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Oldsmobile Aurora

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Comments

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    My 'roara is still going strong with about 45k miles on it now. I polished up the Corsa tips the other day good as new, they really don't get very dulled.

    I also put in factory nav recently:

    image
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Well, have ~109k miles on the old girl. Along with new tires last winter (the Traction T/A's I had on the car still had a fair amount of tread, but the sidewalls were cracking/BFG warrantied part of them), I also had to put a couple of replacement rims on (from a junked '99), because the chrome was peeling from the inner lip and the tires were leaking/losing air. I've actually had this problem with one wheel intermittently the entire time I've had the Aurora. After putting the new rims and tires on, it's nice not to have to get out the portable compressor every week and pump up air.

    In February in our cold snap, I had to replace an idler pulley due to groaning/squealing (tried changing the serpentine belt again - my 3rd replacement in 6+ years of ownership - but no dice). A month later my alternator went 70 miles from home. Compounding matters, the shop that replaced it tightened the lug nuts on the passenger-side wheel to > 120 lb/ft, so about 2 weeks later I noticed a terrible shimmy on braking at speeds > 45 mph - a sure sign of warped rotors. So, time for new rotors and pads (the shop swore up and down it wasn't anything they did, so I ended up eating the front brake job - last replaced all 4 rotors and pads in November of 2005). But, the car still runs strong and handles well. Both power window motors on the passenger side are hit-and-miss - work when they want to - but everything else continues to work great. I'm hoping to get another couple of winters out of the Aurora, before hopefully getting another imported Holden (a Pontiac G8) to roll alongside my GTO. I kinda doubt I'll get rid of the old girl at that time... most likely will put her in storage and save up $$$ to start a restoration project on her...
  • blindviperblindviper Member Posts: 1
    My grandmothers car a 95 aurora. Has a a/c issue the a/c only blows cold air on the passenger side of the car. The drivers door vent, floor, and windshield vents blow hot air. I found a post here about replacing the heat controller box behind the passenger kick panel. Replaced and no avail. Anyone have some ideas?

    Also does anyone know how to get the on-board computer in diagnostics mode so it can be scanned?
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    1) Have you tried to refill the A/C (if you're in a state where you can buy the refrigerant w/o a license)? Cold on one side is usually a symptom of that.

    2) Your car might be a "[non-permissible content removed]" since I bet it has an ODB-II connector but, being a '95, it's likely ODB-I (which wasn't mandated until 1996). So, if you can find a shop with an ODB-I codescanner with an adapter for the II cable, you're in luck (call around)...

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert

    P.S. Latest Aurora anomaly the last time I drove it a month ago: coolant leak. Dunno if it's a hose or the radiator (since the same shop that hosed my brakes doing the alternator replacement also had to disconnect the radiator hoses to get the alternator out)... it apparently only leaks under pressure/not just sitting, so I've disconnected the battery and I've taken the insurance off the car until I can afford to get it fixed in a month or two, *sigh*
  • elgincarpelgincarp Member Posts: 2
    Hi. I finally bought a "97, 74000miles, like new.
    Then the coolant started leaking. It's coming out of a cap-like thingy on the radiator on drivers side and spits
    the Dex mix onto the air filter box.
    Is it replaceable? Cant seem to see how a patch would work.
    Or do I need to replace the plastic radiator housing(?)
    Sure glad I found this forum. Thanks to all of you for contributing such great info on my new deluxe 97 Aurora. :)
  • elgincarpelgincarp Member Posts: 2
    I thought I'd repost:

    Hi. I finally bought a "97, 74000miles, like new.
    Then the coolant started leaking. It's coming out of a cap-like thingy on the radiator on drivers side and streams
    the Dex mix onto the air filter box.
    Is it replaceable? Cant seem to see how a patch would work.
    Or do I need to replace the plastic radiator housing(?)
    Sure glad I found this forum. Thanks to all of you for contributing such great info on my new deluxe 97 Aurora.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    ...the plastic overflow tank? That's the only place where my '98 Aurora has any kind of coolant cap (none visible from on top of the radiator). If that's leaking, time for a replacement (either someone like http://www.gmpartshouse.com or use http://www.car-part.com to find the part at a junky-, er, automotive recycler...
  • indydawgs5indydawgs5 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 97 Aurora a month ago. It's a great car but started having intermittent problems with the windows. At times, they will not work at all, from any spot in the car, other times they work just fine. Any suggestions? Also, today, I started having intermittent problems with the power door locks. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason why they don't work sometimes.

    I would appreciate any suggestions. I don't want to get ripped off on this.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    dawg,

    Very common for Aurora Classics (maybe 2001+ too) to suffer from broken wiring between the doors and body. This could certainly affect both windows and locks and be intermittent. Problem is caused by flexing of the wires when doors are opened and closed. It is not easy, but I would suggest you examine the wires in the black rubber accordion-like casing -- driver's door first.

    Les
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    About two months ago, I drove my Aurora (been trying to drive it at least once a week, the GTO is my summer/good weather car) and noted an orange puddle under the right front. Uh oh.

    It sat for a month and then I took it to my work. My buddy finally came over (after a couple of missed connections) with his pressure-tester. Yep, minor split in the radiator, right below where the fill tube goes in (on the passenger side of the car), only when it's under high pressure.

    New radiator ~$200, replacement hoses $20, and $150 cash to the dude who will flush the system and install the new radiator for me. Of course, when testing, it spewed all over the (new in February) serpentine belt and idler pulleys/tensioner, so now the car squeals like a mofo. Guess I'll be replacing the belt again as well...

    --Robert
  • horizonskyhorizonsky Member Posts: 2
    I am interested in a 2001 Aurora (v6 3.5L) and it looks nice. The I checked the carfax report, it was first registered as a commercial lease vehicle. The current(second) owner told me the car was used as a company car for the CFO before he bought it. Since I am a newer to cars and the forum, could you give me some suggestions? Thanks a lot!
  • dreamridedreamride Member Posts: 2
    Hello to all
    Im from Red Deer Alberta, Canada and I purchased my 95 Aurora from my brother several months ago. He had just bought a holiday trailer and needed a truck to haul it.I thought my macho 6ft 3in. tall brother was going to cry like a baby when he handed me the keys. This guy is a very respected parts manager in So. Alberta - has been in the business for 25+ yrs has had the privelage of driving ans owning some of the most luxurious vehicles GM has to offer.
    He told me that he would still be driving it if he didnt need a truck. There were other people that were interested in the Aurora but he was certain that they would just turn the car over for a profit so he offered it to me and my husband (who is also a partsman in the industry for at least as many years)
    Let me just let you know something now that may not be that interesting to you (amusing maybe) our last name just happens to be Olds! Not a very common name for sure. Two weeks after we brought the car home, my husband had a family reunion in a town not far from here. The name of that town is OLDS!
    OK, you may not find this as amusing as we did, but THINK about it...Mr. Olds driving his OLDS to OLDS tAny howo meet more OLDS for an OLDS family reunion. For anyone that might doubt the existance of OLDS, Alberta, go ahead and look it up on any map.

    We LOVE our OLDS!
  • dreamridedreamride Member Posts: 2
    Hey all
    Im very happy to find this site. youre the only people that will listen to me go on about my aurora.
    When we first got this car, my husband was skeptical. He didnt seem like he wanted to drive it at all.
    This didnt last long, however. Before I knew it, I only had 1 set of keys and he was always VERY helpful at suppertime.
    ie:"do you need more milk? butter? anything?" and off he would go in the Aurora to the store for whatever he could come up with that evening.
    This trend has slowed down a little bit but he is definately in love with the car.
    By the way, can anyone clue me in on what the Autobon feature is? I dont know if I have it. Thanks
  • carbdudecarbdude Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 Aurora that the a/c and heat won't work..
    the heater will blow momentaraly and the a/c will only
    stay on if I tap on the clutch! then it will eventually
    disengage and quit working. As for the heater it will
    blow air when it want's too no matter what setting you
    have it on. Could it be a Resistor or the blower motor??
    I have already replaced the a/c relay and the pigtail on
    the compressor. Something else its doing is making a wierd
    noise under the dash like a solinoid is running maybe
    trying to open a heater door or something. HELP!!!!!!!
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I recently found an image of a '97 Classic window sticker on eBay. I was surprised to see an entry for "overhead storage console." My '97 has no such storage console. My car has sunroof, so maybe non-sunroof cars had the storage. Was there such a thing, or is this a mistake on the window sticker? The VIN ends "00053," so it was a very early '97.

    Les
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,675
    Is there still a company on the internet that will print out the window sticker for a car based on the serial number? OR can a dealer print out the original window sticker duplicate?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I have been searching for years to get a repro window sticker for my '97 with no success. The Olds Heritage center has no record of my car. I have been able to obtain a copy of a blank sticker; I may be able to produce one myself, but it will be a lot of work (plus I need to get an example to copy). I have not been able to find a "friendly" dealer; I do not know if the capability exists for any dealer to print a repro for a 10-year-old car anymore. When I worked for a Chevrolet dealer in 2005, they had the capability to print revised window stickers (for price increases, natch). The people who advertise repro Monroney labels aren't interested in cars less than 25 years old.

    If anyone has a solution, I'm interested.

    Les
  • fnyradfnyrad Member Posts: 4
    i have a 97 aurora i love the car. i have a couple questions i was woundering if anyone could help me. first off does anyone have any problems with the window switch? Mine will work from the drivers door but not any of the others, like the child lock is on, i replaced the whole switch on the drivers side and they still dont work, any ideas?

    Second. the button for the fuel door doesnt work eather. i replaced the switch and it still doesnt work. (i dont know if the two are related or not. maybe its one controler)

    and third i have driven one with the autobahn package on it and i loved it, but mine does not have it. i was woundering if it would be possible to install it, if it is just a controler. any info on anything would be greatly appricated
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Just to complete the loop on this discussion, besides the power windows and door locks, I believe this is a good place to check when the power driver's seat starts to work intermittently. I'm no mechanic, but I had the power seat problem a couple of years back, the seatback control worked on and off, and I think that is where the mechanic found the problem. Wouldn't that be the same route for the power driver's mirror as well?

    Jack
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Just had the same issue in the exact same place with my 1998 Autobahn at 82,000 mi. Swapped out the original hoses, thermostat, and water pump while I was at it. Ouch, but I don't want to get caught standing by the side of the road in the middle of winter with my wife forcefully reminding me that I need to get a newer car, for her sake and our dogs. I love this car, so maybe this preventitive maintanence will keep her at bay.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Hey Les,

    The 4th post on this has a picture of a 1998 Aurora window sticker:

    http://aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cgi?board=Gen&action=display&thread=1136232- 511

    It does not appear to mention any overhead storage, though this car also has a sunroof. Usually though the standard equipment is listed even if an option replaces it. What was the eBay link to the window sticker you saw?

    Bob
  • dano853dano853 Member Posts: 17
    Sorry, no clue about the window switch.
    The fuel door works with a solenoid mounted just to the rear of the fuel door. If, while the engine is off, you can hear or feel a faint click when you press the release button, you have power to the solenoid. Some have recomended lubricating the release tab which can be done when the fuel door is open. I fiddled with mine, adjusting the angle of the latch and lessening the tension on the door. It rarely worked.
    Since there's nothing sadder than driving a $34,000 car and having to open the trunk anytime I wanted to fuel up, I figured the solenoid was just weak and replaced it with another used one from a junk yard for 5 bux. That was 3 yrs ago and it still works, even if I have to click it 3 or 4 times.
  • dano853dano853 Member Posts: 17
    The autobahn was a different gear ratio transmission (3.71 instead of 3.48) and was one of only 5 options available for the Aurora. The Autobahn package included Michelin MXV4 tires. The option code was "QQX" but I have no idea where it might be found in or on the car. As far as I know the only way to find out if you have this option is to either have the original window sticker, or tear open the transmission. There are no outwardly obvious visual differences you can see under the hood, and, according to the GM guys I talked to, no digit or letter of the VIN that represents the elusive Autobahn feature. If anyone knows different do tell.
    My window sticker for my 95 indicates i have the option but I've never seen any other proof. I still run the Michelins on it.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    dano,

    The QQX RPO code for Autobahn option can be found on the Service Parts Identification (SPI) label. For '95s that label was affixed to one of the rear fender wells inside the trunk. For '97 to '99s it was glued to the bottom of the cover over the spare tire. I do not remember which location for '96s.

    You are correct that Autobahn is not identified in the VIN.

    There are at least two other ways to determine Autobahn vs. non-Autobahn. The tire lable on the rear side of the driver's door shows the speed rating -- V for Autobahn and S for non-Autobahn. If the tire label is missing or illegible and the car has the original size tires (235/60-16), find a flat stretch of highway where you can maintain a constant speed with the transaxle in fourth gear and the torque converter locked up. At 2000 RPM, Autobahn speed will be 62 MPH while non-Autobahn speed will be 66 MPH. This is not as easy to do as it may seem because of traffic and hills.

    Hope this helps.

    Les
  • fnyradfnyrad Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Dano, I have it parked for the winter right now, but when i get the change i will check it. i dont believe i hear or feel any click. And yes it is very sad and it sucks having people give you funny looks when you have to pop your trunk to fill up. :confuse:
  • bobc68bobc68 Member Posts: 1
    96 Aurora: First ECC controls quit working. Then over night I lost Instrument gauges, driver information center, remote functions, auto door LOCKS (both doors). Car runs and all lights work, radio, and cd player work. Have not found any bad related fuses.;
  • patsmaleypatsmaley Member Posts: 12
    hello all. my name patrick and i have a 97 auroa. 4.0L. i just got done with a small over haul in performance.im glad i bought my car for 4300 hundred. cause i love it. i just but it on a dyno yesterday and im pushing out 346.7 inh horse, and 311.2 in torq. it helps with the autobahn package. i was just wondering if theres any auroa meets any around here in new york?
  • patsmaleypatsmaley Member Posts: 12
    i've had mine up to 142, and i have a copy of my slip from track to show for it
  • bikerdudesouthbikerdudesouth Member Posts: 1
    My fuel pump just stop working I put a new one on and it to will not come on its acts like its getting no power to it is there a emerg cut off switch some where maybe or somthing else anyway please help.
  • patsmaleypatsmaley Member Posts: 12
    take a ohm tester and checkthe power back to the fuel pump.it should be 12vts. if no power you should check the fuse and power wires, also make sure you have good ground. please let me know how you make out. ty
  • cocarvalhococarvalho Member Posts: 2
    Hi!
    I'm from Brazil and i will import a engine to use in a Cobra Replica Car.
    So I don't understand nothing about engines and as I'm not in USA i would like a help.
    I would like know if the engine of link below is turnkey or not, and if not what is necessary buy to do it? And if is possible where I can found parts to complete it?

    I read that the engine is a Performance Oldsmobile Aurora L47.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380012686403

    Please I will appreciate any kind of help.

    Thanks a lot.
    Regards,
    Cristiano.
  • auroraindycarauroraindycar Member Posts: 1
    Christiano:
    Hello. Might be able to help your search. I am the ORIGINAL OWNER of INDY-version AURORA, complete fully operational vehicle. Full maintenance records, immaculate condition...this is the INDY Series V8 32-valve DOHC race engine in vehicle. Please review feedback on Edmunds regarding this model & engine performance as posted, they are accurate, true...this is a vehicle in high demand for those familiar w/ specifications as noted on Edmunds.
    Has NOTHING to do w/ Shelby!!
    Might be willing to sell ENTIRE VEHICLE (best option I would suggest to you).
    Regards,

    Vito
  • cocarvalhococarvalho Member Posts: 2
    Hi Vito,
    Unfortunately the Brazil legislation permit only import cars 0km or 30 years old.
    But, thanks a lot.
    Regards,
    Cristiano.
  • eddie36eddie36 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Folks,
    I have been the owner of a 97 Aurora since 2000. It has aquired some serious mechanical problems so I think it is done. It developed a head gasket leak and now can not be driven without overheating. Repair cost far exceed the value of the car ($3350.00)so I am active looking for another one. I have a lead on a low milage 95.
    Can I get some education what the differences are from the 95 to the 97 model?

    Ed
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Ed,

    Factory changes '95 to '96: added DRLs, removed backlight distortion, added panic button to keyless entry, seats and mirrors move to preset position when keykess entry is used, programmable door locks, perimeter lighting when doors are unlocked in the dark, battery run-down protection, added recirculation mode to climate control system.
    Factory changes '96 to '97: right exterior mirror dips when transaxle in reverse, added compass in rearview mirror, larger front rotors, 3-channel garage door opener, added Homelink rolling code compatibility ~12/96, optional 12-disc changer in trunk, upgraded suspension to FE3 sport (different front springs and struts, 29mm front stabilizer shaft ('96 was 27mm), no changes to rear), engine oil cooler was deleted sometime during the model run, front ball joints became lubricated for life sometime during the model run, and spare wheel went to 17" from 16". You can easily pull the rearview mirror and garage door opener from your '97 and move them to another Aurora.
    In general, reliability improved every year for the Classic Auroras. Many '95s have had shift solenoid problems -- not too expensive to fix. The occurence of oil leaks and blown head gaskets lessened over the years. You probably didn't know that. :-)

    Hope this helps.

    Les
  • slamcoolslamcool Member Posts: 1
    Hi!, I like your dyno results, what your recipe? I'm looking to do that but I'm not familiar with the Northstar engines....
  • stickking1stickking1 Member Posts: 247
    Hey all. Just checking in now that I have brought the '95 out of storage. My last few jobs have provided me with business vehicles, so the Aurora has been sleeping peacefully, but I thought it finally time to bring her down to Florida with me. Palm trees and an absolute absence of road salt agrees with both of us.

    Have had a few minor issues to deal with, all of which could easily be blamed on over 2 years of rare use. Both rear brake lines rusted out and needed replacement, new battery and alternator, had to change 3 of the 4 ignition coils, a new master cylinder and the flange in front of the catalytic converter actually rusted out and snapped in half, leaving my exhaust in two pieces. Easy fix, but it sounded like I had a Harley for a day.

    image

    All in all, she still looks good. Hope all is well here.

    -Brian
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Brian....thanks for the picture. Looking good! Mileage? Thanks. Jack.
  • stickking1stickking1 Member Posts: 247
    Without going down to look at it, I'd say right around 178,000. I made a post when the odo hit 150K. That was 3 years (or more) ago...just to give an idea of how little it's been used.
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Has there been any transmission work done on the car? I've got 94,000 on a 98 and wonder when that expense will raise its ugly head. Thanks. Jack
  • stickking1stickking1 Member Posts: 247
    Aside from flushing the trans fluid when I first bought the car, the only thing I have had to do with the trans is the shift solenoid that went out a couple years back. It would have been a real expensive fix, but at the time I had an auto shop and a brother/ASE Mechanic at my disposal. Turned a huge repair bill into a $30 parts bill and about 6 hours worth of work opening up the trans, fixing the problem and putting it all back together again.
  • rachelle477rachelle477 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Olds Aurora w/ 107000 miles on it. It just started making this clicking noise when i accelerate. best description of noise is like something stuck in the spokes of a bicycle; it continues loudly until i achieve 35-40mph then it is hardly noticable. Anybody have any suggestions.....
  • patsmaleypatsmaley Member Posts: 12
    hello every one im back.i just down some more work on my 97 aurora. on the out side shes all orig. but under the hood is a different story. i just rebuilt her cause she as 132,000 on her.nows she got more power then before.now im running low 13teens for now.it took alot of time but im finnally ther. (work for trucking comp little time in hands). i will be posting pics soon.
  • patsmaleypatsmaley Member Posts: 12
    have some one check top half of motor. lifters, vavles exc.i just rebuilt mine cause she has 132,000 on her and shes quite now
  • patsmaleypatsmaley Member Posts: 12
    check c/v shafts(half-shafts) steering
  • jazzyaurorajazzyaurora Member Posts: 1
    Hi I am a young girl who just bought her first car. A '97 aurora. I love it. But I didnt take a man (or someone who knows about cars) with me to look at it. I want it to last me and it seems to be fine but the other day when I went to leave work I turned on the car and put it in reverse. It backed up a little and then locked up. The wheele wouldnt turn and I couldnt push the brake or gas. Then I put it in drive and it did the same thing. So I turned it off. When I turned it back on it was fine and no problems since but that really bothered me. I dont want the car to break down before I finish paying it off. What could it be? Anybody know?
  • patsmaleypatsmaley Member Posts: 12
    hello darling my name is patrick. i also have a 97 auroa. i sounds like the neutral safty swich may be bad or wasnt in gear all the way.or the the linkage on the transs. if you had no gas or brakes when you step on the petals it couls possible be the rod for the ingnition. i will send you pixs of my car when i get digital cam.
  • patsmaleypatsmaley Member Posts: 12
    www.carspace.com/patsmaley/Albums/
    here some pics of my 97 aoura please let me know what you think
  • patsmaleypatsmaley Member Posts: 12
    www.carspace.com/patsmaley/Albums/ please go to me web page and see my car and let me know what you think thank you
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    It's nice to see a recent uptick in Aurora discussions on this forum. I have not contributed much lately.....because nothing has broken or has worn out! But I follow the issues because sooner or later I myself will be back researching a particular issue that crops up.

    My 98 Black/Graphite Autobahn is approaching 96,000 miles, purchased used 7/98 with 12K, a dealer manager's car. Recent circumstances have put me on the commute trail, and I've put 14,000 miles on the car since November, most of which has been since mid January. It is a pleasure to relax (if you can do that around Boston area traffic) in the car and enjoy it as far more than 4 wheels and transportation.

    On the topic of fuel mileage, since that seems to be front and center on everyone's minds these days. Pure city: 18 with a soft pedal. Pure highway: 26-28 at 55-65 on cruise. And 22-24 mixed 75% highway/25% rush hour stop and go.

    For the first time in my life (since November), I have succumbed to rapidly rising fuel costs and have downgraded from "premium only 91-93" to "midgrade 89," and for the past 5 months "regular 87" octane. Fuel economy over the past 14,000 miles making essentially the same drive over the same roads at the same speeds albeit with temperature changes has resulted in absolutely no deterioration in fuel economy. There has been no pinging or knocking: the sensor to retard spark and accommodate the lower grade fuel is doing it's job nicely. The worst highway fuel economy on cruise was 24.5 mpg with 800 pounds of passengers and 150 pounds of luggage at 70 mph on a trip to NH. The car is on the original spark plugs and ignition wires. No fuel additives. Just fuel injection services at 40,000 and 80,000 miles if my memory serves me correctly.

    Everyone spends their money differently. Everyone has a different "worry" threshold driving an older car. Not all of us have had the advantage of owning our cars as long and for as many miles as I have and know exactly what has been done to the car and when from a maintenance standpoint, or how it has been driven. Personally, I'd rate myself as a conservative driver (fuel economy) with a few blasts to 110+ mph per week. I tend to wear out the edges of my tires quicker than some because I have an affinity for exit ramps at speed.

    I have not avoided some of the bigger ticket repairs (vs. maintenance) that had to be done: radiator, water pump, and the idler pulley/tensioner. But I voluntarily replaced the a/c compressor, thermostat, and alternator because in the midst of one repair it was cost effective to perform the latter. The labor (disassembly) to do one thing made it cost effective to do the other at the same time. I have been fortunate to have a local mechanic who is batting a perfect 1.000 on repairs.

    I am on the original ignition and am riding on the original suspension.....items on the to do list. What doesn't work right now? The fuel gauge sender is wacky from 7 gallons left to empty (I watch the gallons used in the control center) and the dog has broken the directional control on the center console mounted rear air vent. I have followed the maintenance schedule to the letter, no more, no less.

    When we wonder whether it is worth it to put $3,500 into a car blue-booked at $3,500 (pick a number), we have to weigh the cost of getting into a new(er) ride WITH THE SAME COMFORT, RELIABILITY, PERFORMANCE, FEATURES, AND PRACTICALITY. Newer car = higher insurance costs, higher exise taxes (Taxachussetts), a killer depreciation expense, and whatever financing costs are incurred. The overall savings driving the Olds keep me driving what I've got. I figure I am money ahead. But that's just me.

    As long as my Aurora fulfills my fun and reliability requirements and still gets the complimentary questions: "What kind of car is that? It's how old?!?!?!" I'm keeping it.

    Jack
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