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I also put in factory nav recently:
In February in our cold snap, I had to replace an idler pulley due to groaning/squealing (tried changing the serpentine belt again - my 3rd replacement in 6+ years of ownership - but no dice). A month later my alternator went 70 miles from home. Compounding matters, the shop that replaced it tightened the lug nuts on the passenger-side wheel to > 120 lb/ft, so about 2 weeks later I noticed a terrible shimmy on braking at speeds > 45 mph - a sure sign of warped rotors. So, time for new rotors and pads (the shop swore up and down it wasn't anything they did, so I ended up eating the front brake job - last replaced all 4 rotors and pads in November of 2005). But, the car still runs strong and handles well. Both power window motors on the passenger side are hit-and-miss - work when they want to - but everything else continues to work great. I'm hoping to get another couple of winters out of the Aurora, before hopefully getting another imported Holden (a Pontiac G8) to roll alongside my GTO. I kinda doubt I'll get rid of the old girl at that time... most likely will put her in storage and save up $$$ to start a restoration project on her...
Also does anyone know how to get the on-board computer in diagnostics mode so it can be scanned?
2) Your car might be a "[non-permissible content removed]" since I bet it has an ODB-II connector but, being a '95, it's likely ODB-I (which wasn't mandated until 1996). So, if you can find a shop with an ODB-I codescanner with an adapter for the II cable, you're in luck (call around)...
Hope this helps,
--Robert
P.S. Latest Aurora anomaly the last time I drove it a month ago: coolant leak. Dunno if it's a hose or the radiator (since the same shop that hosed my brakes doing the alternator replacement also had to disconnect the radiator hoses to get the alternator out)... it apparently only leaks under pressure/not just sitting, so I've disconnected the battery and I've taken the insurance off the car until I can afford to get it fixed in a month or two, *sigh*
Then the coolant started leaking. It's coming out of a cap-like thingy on the radiator on drivers side and spits
the Dex mix onto the air filter box.
Is it replaceable? Cant seem to see how a patch would work.
Or do I need to replace the plastic radiator housing(?)
Sure glad I found this forum. Thanks to all of you for contributing such great info on my new deluxe 97 Aurora.
Hi. I finally bought a "97, 74000miles, like new.
Then the coolant started leaking. It's coming out of a cap-like thingy on the radiator on drivers side and streams
the Dex mix onto the air filter box.
Is it replaceable? Cant seem to see how a patch would work.
Or do I need to replace the plastic radiator housing(?)
Sure glad I found this forum. Thanks to all of you for contributing such great info on my new deluxe 97 Aurora.
I would appreciate any suggestions. I don't want to get ripped off on this.
Very common for Aurora Classics (maybe 2001+ too) to suffer from broken wiring between the doors and body. This could certainly affect both windows and locks and be intermittent. Problem is caused by flexing of the wires when doors are opened and closed. It is not easy, but I would suggest you examine the wires in the black rubber accordion-like casing -- driver's door first.
Les
It sat for a month and then I took it to my work. My buddy finally came over (after a couple of missed connections) with his pressure-tester. Yep, minor split in the radiator, right below where the fill tube goes in (on the passenger side of the car), only when it's under high pressure.
New radiator ~$200, replacement hoses $20, and $150 cash to the dude who will flush the system and install the new radiator for me. Of course, when testing, it spewed all over the (new in February) serpentine belt and idler pulleys/tensioner, so now the car squeals like a mofo. Guess I'll be replacing the belt again as well...
--Robert
Im from Red Deer Alberta, Canada and I purchased my 95 Aurora from my brother several months ago. He had just bought a holiday trailer and needed a truck to haul it.I thought my macho 6ft 3in. tall brother was going to cry like a baby when he handed me the keys. This guy is a very respected parts manager in So. Alberta - has been in the business for 25+ yrs has had the privelage of driving ans owning some of the most luxurious vehicles GM has to offer.
He told me that he would still be driving it if he didnt need a truck. There were other people that were interested in the Aurora but he was certain that they would just turn the car over for a profit so he offered it to me and my husband (who is also a partsman in the industry for at least as many years)
Let me just let you know something now that may not be that interesting to you (amusing maybe) our last name just happens to be Olds! Not a very common name for sure. Two weeks after we brought the car home, my husband had a family reunion in a town not far from here. The name of that town is OLDS!
OK, you may not find this as amusing as we did, but THINK about it...Mr. Olds driving his OLDS to OLDS tAny howo meet more OLDS for an OLDS family reunion. For anyone that might doubt the existance of OLDS, Alberta, go ahead and look it up on any map.
We LOVE our OLDS!
Im very happy to find this site. youre the only people that will listen to me go on about my aurora.
When we first got this car, my husband was skeptical. He didnt seem like he wanted to drive it at all.
This didnt last long, however. Before I knew it, I only had 1 set of keys and he was always VERY helpful at suppertime.
ie:"do you need more milk? butter? anything?" and off he would go in the Aurora to the store for whatever he could come up with that evening.
This trend has slowed down a little bit but he is definately in love with the car.
By the way, can anyone clue me in on what the Autobon feature is? I dont know if I have it. Thanks
the heater will blow momentaraly and the a/c will only
stay on if I tap on the clutch! then it will eventually
disengage and quit working. As for the heater it will
blow air when it want's too no matter what setting you
have it on. Could it be a Resistor or the blower motor??
I have already replaced the a/c relay and the pigtail on
the compressor. Something else its doing is making a wierd
noise under the dash like a solinoid is running maybe
trying to open a heater door or something. HELP!!!!!!!
Les
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If anyone has a solution, I'm interested.
Les
Second. the button for the fuel door doesnt work eather. i replaced the switch and it still doesnt work. (i dont know if the two are related or not. maybe its one controler)
and third i have driven one with the autobahn package on it and i loved it, but mine does not have it. i was woundering if it would be possible to install it, if it is just a controler. any info on anything would be greatly appricated
Jack
The 4th post on this has a picture of a 1998 Aurora window sticker:
http://aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cgi?board=Gen&action=display&thread=1136232- 511
It does not appear to mention any overhead storage, though this car also has a sunroof. Usually though the standard equipment is listed even if an option replaces it. What was the eBay link to the window sticker you saw?
Bob
The fuel door works with a solenoid mounted just to the rear of the fuel door. If, while the engine is off, you can hear or feel a faint click when you press the release button, you have power to the solenoid. Some have recomended lubricating the release tab which can be done when the fuel door is open. I fiddled with mine, adjusting the angle of the latch and lessening the tension on the door. It rarely worked.
Since there's nothing sadder than driving a $34,000 car and having to open the trunk anytime I wanted to fuel up, I figured the solenoid was just weak and replaced it with another used one from a junk yard for 5 bux. That was 3 yrs ago and it still works, even if I have to click it 3 or 4 times.
My window sticker for my 95 indicates i have the option but I've never seen any other proof. I still run the Michelins on it.
The QQX RPO code for Autobahn option can be found on the Service Parts Identification (SPI) label. For '95s that label was affixed to one of the rear fender wells inside the trunk. For '97 to '99s it was glued to the bottom of the cover over the spare tire. I do not remember which location for '96s.
You are correct that Autobahn is not identified in the VIN.
There are at least two other ways to determine Autobahn vs. non-Autobahn. The tire lable on the rear side of the driver's door shows the speed rating -- V for Autobahn and S for non-Autobahn. If the tire label is missing or illegible and the car has the original size tires (235/60-16), find a flat stretch of highway where you can maintain a constant speed with the transaxle in fourth gear and the torque converter locked up. At 2000 RPM, Autobahn speed will be 62 MPH while non-Autobahn speed will be 66 MPH. This is not as easy to do as it may seem because of traffic and hills.
Hope this helps.
Les
I'm from Brazil and i will import a engine to use in a Cobra Replica Car.
So I don't understand nothing about engines and as I'm not in USA i would like a help.
I would like know if the engine of link below is turnkey or not, and if not what is necessary buy to do it? And if is possible where I can found parts to complete it?
I read that the engine is a Performance Oldsmobile Aurora L47.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380012686403
Please I will appreciate any kind of help.
Thanks a lot.
Regards,
Cristiano.
Hello. Might be able to help your search. I am the ORIGINAL OWNER of INDY-version AURORA, complete fully operational vehicle. Full maintenance records, immaculate condition...this is the INDY Series V8 32-valve DOHC race engine in vehicle. Please review feedback on Edmunds regarding this model & engine performance as posted, they are accurate, true...this is a vehicle in high demand for those familiar w/ specifications as noted on Edmunds.
Has NOTHING to do w/ Shelby!!
Might be willing to sell ENTIRE VEHICLE (best option I would suggest to you).
Regards,
Vito
Unfortunately the Brazil legislation permit only import cars 0km or 30 years old.
But, thanks a lot.
Regards,
Cristiano.
I have been the owner of a 97 Aurora since 2000. It has aquired some serious mechanical problems so I think it is done. It developed a head gasket leak and now can not be driven without overheating. Repair cost far exceed the value of the car ($3350.00)so I am active looking for another one. I have a lead on a low milage 95.
Can I get some education what the differences are from the 95 to the 97 model?
Ed
Factory changes '95 to '96: added DRLs, removed backlight distortion, added panic button to keyless entry, seats and mirrors move to preset position when keykess entry is used, programmable door locks, perimeter lighting when doors are unlocked in the dark, battery run-down protection, added recirculation mode to climate control system.
Factory changes '96 to '97: right exterior mirror dips when transaxle in reverse, added compass in rearview mirror, larger front rotors, 3-channel garage door opener, added Homelink rolling code compatibility ~12/96, optional 12-disc changer in trunk, upgraded suspension to FE3 sport (different front springs and struts, 29mm front stabilizer shaft ('96 was 27mm), no changes to rear), engine oil cooler was deleted sometime during the model run, front ball joints became lubricated for life sometime during the model run, and spare wheel went to 17" from 16". You can easily pull the rearview mirror and garage door opener from your '97 and move them to another Aurora.
In general, reliability improved every year for the Classic Auroras. Many '95s have had shift solenoid problems -- not too expensive to fix. The occurence of oil leaks and blown head gaskets lessened over the years. You probably didn't know that. :-)
Hope this helps.
Les
Have had a few minor issues to deal with, all of which could easily be blamed on over 2 years of rare use. Both rear brake lines rusted out and needed replacement, new battery and alternator, had to change 3 of the 4 ignition coils, a new master cylinder and the flange in front of the catalytic converter actually rusted out and snapped in half, leaving my exhaust in two pieces. Easy fix, but it sounded like I had a Harley for a day.
All in all, she still looks good. Hope all is well here.
-Brian
here some pics of my 97 aoura please let me know what you think
My 98 Black/Graphite Autobahn is approaching 96,000 miles, purchased used 7/98 with 12K, a dealer manager's car. Recent circumstances have put me on the commute trail, and I've put 14,000 miles on the car since November, most of which has been since mid January. It is a pleasure to relax (if you can do that around Boston area traffic) in the car and enjoy it as far more than 4 wheels and transportation.
On the topic of fuel mileage, since that seems to be front and center on everyone's minds these days. Pure city: 18 with a soft pedal. Pure highway: 26-28 at 55-65 on cruise. And 22-24 mixed 75% highway/25% rush hour stop and go.
For the first time in my life (since November), I have succumbed to rapidly rising fuel costs and have downgraded from "premium only 91-93" to "midgrade 89," and for the past 5 months "regular 87" octane. Fuel economy over the past 14,000 miles making essentially the same drive over the same roads at the same speeds albeit with temperature changes has resulted in absolutely no deterioration in fuel economy. There has been no pinging or knocking: the sensor to retard spark and accommodate the lower grade fuel is doing it's job nicely. The worst highway fuel economy on cruise was 24.5 mpg with 800 pounds of passengers and 150 pounds of luggage at 70 mph on a trip to NH. The car is on the original spark plugs and ignition wires. No fuel additives. Just fuel injection services at 40,000 and 80,000 miles if my memory serves me correctly.
Everyone spends their money differently. Everyone has a different "worry" threshold driving an older car. Not all of us have had the advantage of owning our cars as long and for as many miles as I have and know exactly what has been done to the car and when from a maintenance standpoint, or how it has been driven. Personally, I'd rate myself as a conservative driver (fuel economy) with a few blasts to 110+ mph per week. I tend to wear out the edges of my tires quicker than some because I have an affinity for exit ramps at speed.
I have not avoided some of the bigger ticket repairs (vs. maintenance) that had to be done: radiator, water pump, and the idler pulley/tensioner. But I voluntarily replaced the a/c compressor, thermostat, and alternator because in the midst of one repair it was cost effective to perform the latter. The labor (disassembly) to do one thing made it cost effective to do the other at the same time. I have been fortunate to have a local mechanic who is batting a perfect 1.000 on repairs.
I am on the original ignition and am riding on the original suspension.....items on the to do list. What doesn't work right now? The fuel gauge sender is wacky from 7 gallons left to empty (I watch the gallons used in the control center) and the dog has broken the directional control on the center console mounted rear air vent. I have followed the maintenance schedule to the letter, no more, no less.
When we wonder whether it is worth it to put $3,500 into a car blue-booked at $3,500 (pick a number), we have to weigh the cost of getting into a new(er) ride WITH THE SAME COMFORT, RELIABILITY, PERFORMANCE, FEATURES, AND PRACTICALITY. Newer car = higher insurance costs, higher exise taxes (Taxachussetts), a killer depreciation expense, and whatever financing costs are incurred. The overall savings driving the Olds keep me driving what I've got. I figure I am money ahead. But that's just me.
As long as my Aurora fulfills my fun and reliability requirements and still gets the complimentary questions: "What kind of car is that? It's how old?!?!?!" I'm keeping it.
Jack