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Oldsmobile Aurora



  • Interesting story to share about this topic. I am in the car business, so I have the luxury of meeting all kinds of people from all types of occupations. I recently financed a car to a manager of a Shell gas station. He swears by his product.....but he did say that the biggest problem with any gas stations...are the maintenance of the gas tanks in the ground. Moisture is the enemy! standing water at the bottom of the tank is what really pollutes fuel systems in cars. It is up to company standards....and the ability for the gas station owners to follow those standards, that will greatly decrease this from happening. Daily monitoring of the tanks such as moisture, and tempature readings. Shell...has very high standards in the industry, and the readings are uploaded into a database at Shell....if the standard deviation falls below acceptable standards....the owner of the station can be fined and possibly lose the franchise. Please note that not all Shell stations are indipendently owened, most are corporate owned and operated. So.....what does this mean...I buy my gas only at shell because of their high quality standards.
  • well i was on the 101 in phoenix,az the other night so i wanted to see about this speed limiter thing (because this 95 aurora runs like a striped a-- ape)so i steped on it (no one around)i was picking up speed fast ready to change gears and i let up 135MPH (trafic) i thought man what a ride.90,000 miles just got a few mounths ago like brand new. well SEEYA OH I PAID 5000 FOR THE BEASTi mean aurrora
  • another satisfied customer lol. You still had about 4 mph left. Just make sure you have at least V-rated tires if you plan on doing this a couple times
  • I have a 2000 Aurora, which gives an OBD code PO410, Secondary Air injection System Malfunction. Does anyone know where I can find out what exactly this means, and how I go about fixing it, without taking the car to the dealership?
  • That's the Air pump code, I believe. Could have gone bad, or there could be a crack in the vac line as well. I've never done the work on an Aurora in particular, so I wouldn't be much help there, but that's a start.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I am looking to buy a reel to reel. Please email me if you can offer insights into the purchase.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I am thinking of installing it in the Aurora as an in dash unit.
  • Does anyone know how to change the bulb to the fog lights?
  • fog lights for a 98
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    To change the foglight bulbs, you have to go from under the car, take off the bottom panels of the front of the Aurora and go from there.

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    This procedure has been posted before. I would suggest you do a search under fog lights. I think the procedure was posted not here, but on the maintencane board. In any event search through the boards and al the info will come up. If memory serves me right, there are several ways to get to them.
  • enduroedenduroed Posts: 4
    Hello all,
    I have an 01 3.5L Aurora, love the car but am currently having a problem. The car will be running then all of a sudden burp (no better explenation) and the tack will then go to redline and move back and forth, staying in the redline area as the car runs normally. The engine still will be running fine. If I turn the engine off and back on it will run and register on the gages normally. Also, on the digital management system my oil pressure is pegged at 130 psi. The car is running great.
    I went to Discount Auto, they put their sensor on it and it registered a bad crankcase position sensor.
    I then went to a local GM dealer and he said it is just a couple of switches, the crankcase and oil sending, and that it is not a problem driving the car until the switches are replaced.
    Has anyone duplicated these problems? Any help will be appreciated.

    Tks, Ed
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    a problem on 2001 and earlier cars. I think they made some changes to them such that later ones don't have the high failure rate. I'd probably get it changed sooner rather than later.

    Also, it's a crankshaft position sensor. Hopefully your crankcase's position never changes... ;)
  • 53rocket53rocket Posts: 65
    RJS is dead on. Replace the crankshaft sensors and don't forget to do BOTH of them. Your problem will go away. I had my '01 done.
  • ibtiggsibtiggs Posts: 23
    Does anyone know where to get the workshop manual for these cars? I'm having a heck of a time finding one, and the dealer is quoting an outrageous price for one. I have to change head gaskets, and I don't want to go into this blind.

    Please help!
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    1) - should be around $135
    2) eBay (used to see them go to auction up there, not sure if they are any longer as I don't peruse eBay much these days)
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,697
    I justs checked Helm to see if the data was on a CD which is cheaper.

    They are selling out 95 and older manuals. If in stock, they are $30. I paid $120 or so for 03 LeSbre on paper; $85 for 98 LeSabre manual.

    I'd jump on $30!!! - SR49PCQQG803HG23FRQ7BEF

    Note the 800 number
    (800) 782-4356.

    They are great people to deal with. I've bought manuals since 77 Olds for each car. They sent a whole new set for 98 LeSabre after about a year because of changes. Just showed up on doorstep unannounced. No charge. Had been corrections so they shipped them.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    AURORA is the BEST LOOKING car on the road.

    BARRR NONE !!!!

    STILL CRAZY (about aurora) AFTER ALL THESE YEARS !!!
  • I'll second that!!

    I especially love when you're searching for your car in a crowded parking lot and realize that your Aurora is the only car you'd consider driving home compared to the others. It's that very same moment when you think to yourself " I sure do have the best looking car here!"
    It is so nice to hop behind the wheel and enjoy the syling and luxury of such a fine automobile.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    my buttion is hanging but still works a little. Am "I alone with this? Have others already done thi?s
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Had it fixed under GM Warranty.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Henri, as long as you don't complain about problems with your DI, er, Driver Information Center :-)
  • alarming9alarming9 Posts: 10
    You made a smart move. i got the 5yr /150k. best 1800 bucks I ever spent
  • sdasda Indian Land, SCPosts: 2,893
    I really like having the rear fog lamps on my 01 4.0. We have had many foggy mornings in the past year, and for my 24 mile drive to work, it gives me a little added safety knowing others can see me a little easier. I don't know of any other GM product (except maybe Saab) that offered this safety feature. I am surprised Cadillac doesn't have it as they try to appeal more to the European buyer. Did the Classic have them too? 76000 mi and running like new!

    2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2013 Honda Accord EX, 2006 Acura TL w/nav

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    ...were not available on the Classic.

    You're catching up! I'm just under 95k on my '98. I need to finish detailing it this weekend, then it's off to an environmentally-controlled storage facility for the summer. I'll pull it out sometime in October so my mechanic buddy and I can put new struts, shocks, and rear brake pads on the car. My $20 OEM eBay power antenna failed again, so I'm keeping my eyes open for another replacement. Still love driving the car, but it no longer seems quick (especially with the A/C on) compared to my GTO :-)

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,697
    I hope you don't use them except in fog or really bad driving conditions...
    I find those bright lights a real safety risk when driving behind a car in normal conditions. The Jags have them, even the baby jags, and those too are irritating to drive behind.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Yeah, when they are needed, they are really really useful. There have been a few occasions I've seen other cars with them on (not Auroras) in really bad weather, and it made them much easier to see. Unfortunately most of the Auroras I've seen around here drive with all their fogs on all the time. Those lights are really annoying at night! But they are useful for flashing people behind you who insist on driving with their high-beams on. :D

    Robert, I'm in a similar boat now. I am the new owner of a 1990 Corvette ZR-1. My wife is pretty happy driving the Regal, so the Aurora isn't seeing a lot of action lately. :(
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    "then it's off to an environmentally-controlled storage facility for the summer."
    Showing respect for the elders.

    " but it no longer seems quick (especially with the A/C on) compared to my GTO."
    Embracing the new technology.

    A well balanced individual if you ask me. :)
  • sdasda Indian Land, SCPosts: 2,893
    I do use them sparingly. I agree, it is very annoying to follow someone with their fogs lights on when there is clear visibility. It would have been nice if Olds provided an indicator on the dash to show when the front fog lights were on. There is only the a light if you use the rear fog lamps, and not the front fog lights. This might explain why so many do run around with their fog lights on...they don't know they're on!

    2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2013 Honda Accord EX, 2006 Acura TL w/nav

  • auroragapeauroragape Posts: 1

    I've seen 2 Classic Aurora's with spoilers in-person. One was the first Aurora I ever saw back in 95' at a High School parking lot in Ottumwa, Iowa. I guess it was the Principals. The other was 2 weeks ago at the movie theater in Oakdale, MN. I was able to talk to the owner and he said it was factory. I would love to find a kit but matching the paint would be tricky.

    You mentioned having some pictures. Would it be possible to get them from you?

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    I don't think the factory shipped any cars with spoilers (have to double-check with my mother-in-law - she worked at the Lake Orion plant until the end of '97). More likely a dealer put one on aftermarket, and added $500 or so to the price of the car to make up for it.

    Pictures and pricing - can even get them painted (might be OK for black, don't know about the other colors). Pricing's not bad, IMHO, compared to the stuff I've seen for the GTO...

  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Are you looking to get a spolier, what is the color that you have?

    "Aurora Club Of North America"
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I am THINKING of painting the 95. The clear coat is failing and when i tried to paint the door the same color, it came out more gold than "Champaign" or "Lite Antelope". I did not like the new color. My friend said that the shop used a later generation color on the car and not the 1995 color. Who knows??

    Anyway, I was thinking of painting the car Cadillac Auburn. Its a hard color to describe, its like a golden burnt orange. Anyway, I have seen the color on Caddie's and Pontiacs. Any thoughts on this. The interior of the car is 1995 Neutral which is different from later year nuetral colors.

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    I have a black car (probably the easiest to match). I was just responding to an earlier post looking for Aurora spoilers. I'm undecided about putting a spoiler on my Aurora - I might, but I'm putting most of my "mod money" towards my GTO, and "maintenance money" to the Aurora. I know I'll need struts all around, and probably rear brake pads, so that's probably the extent I'll do in the next year...

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Funny you should mention that. In claying and detailing my black '98, there are a number of swirls and scratches, plus the paint on the rear bumper is peeling where I got "bumped and run" in a parking lot. Have given a little thought to painting the car. Buddy suggested I paint her Cosmos Purple Metallic like my GTO, but I don't think I want to do that. I'll probably wait until the clearcoat begins to fail before doing the "strip and repaint"...

  • aurora01aurora01 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Aurora that I just purchased in March, 2005. My engine check light came on last week and the OBD code is for P0410 too. Any tips for repairing without going to a dealership?
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    DTC P0410 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System.

    I know that this is used to help control emissions. Here's some info I Googled:

    "An internal combustion engine requires a relatively rich mixture for smooth operation on cold start. For this reason, the ECU operates in open loop mode with a fixed fuel map for the first few seconds of engine operation until the oxygen sensors have heated to operating temperature. Because of this, exhaust gases contain high levels of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons after cold starts. The unburned hydrocarbons could be further oxidized, except there is no oxygen left after combustion. By feeding air into the exhaust manifold (secondary air), CO and HC are oxidized through afterburning at high temperatures to form water and carbon dioxide. The exothermal reaction also increases the exhaust gas temperature, which warms the catalyist more quickly.

    To achieve efficient warmup operation, a high secondary air flow rate must be achieved within the first few seconds of engine startup, and the air flow rate must be maintained until oxygen sensor control is in operation. Air flow is maintained by an electric air pump. Once the oxygen sensors and catalytic converters have reached their operating temperatures, valves cut off the secondary air flow."

    Maybe a problem with that secondary air pump, or the cutoff valves...
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Could you provide a link to that information?
  • tjm97tjm97 Posts: 27
    i replaced my air filter and reset the puter - no code since
  • ophidianophidian Posts: 1
    I'm looking at buying a 99 Aurora that is in very good condition, but it is a salvage title. The repair work appears to be done well. I might be able to get it for under $5000. The only thing the owner said is that the power steering sometimes leaks after a long drive. Otherwise, all is in great order. Does anyone have any opinions or comments. What might be my worst case scenario to fix the PS leak? Are repairs on the Northstar engine substantially more costly than other vehicles? I've never owned an Aurora so any comments or opinions will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Well, I'm biased, since I own a '98.

    Executive summary: the first-generation Aurora is a very nice car. They have been known to bleed your wallet dry with repair costs - yes, the Northstar can be an expensive engine to repair when things go wrong (all aluminum construction, some poor design choices like the starter in the valley below the intake, alternator is a bear to replace).

    Having said that, it can be a very enjoyable car when working properly. Great ride, luxurious comfort, ample power. And, you have a '99 - a lot of "teething" issues ('95-96 tranny shift solenoids, '95-'97 fuel lines) are resolved for the '98's and '99's.

    I think it all depends on your mindset. If having an issue with a car (remember, a '99 was built July of '98 through May of '99, so it's 6 to 7 years old) bums you out/ticks you off, I wouldn't consider one. If you can let the sweat roll off your back, and especially if you are mechanically inclined, I would consider it. I would also suggest you verify what was repaired on the "salvage" car. As to the power steering pump leaking, mine was oozing a little - the dealer wanted to replace the whole rack and pump ($1200) - took it to another mechanic, who wiped it off and told me "they all do it". I've not had any further problems (my dealership knew that I had a third-party extended warranty, and I think was trying to take advantage of that fact. As an aside, my $1200 $0 deductibe warranty paid out over $4500 in claims, so that was a good buy, but probably not an option for you at the car's age)...

    One last thing... I'd see if I could find a maintenance history on the car. If it's not well-maintained (fluids changed/flushed, tires rotated, plugs & wires changed when needed, et. al.), it's probably not worth buying...

  • carmaniaccarmaniac Posts: 1
    I am 17 and I just bought a 2001 Aurora, I love this car and make alot of my much older neighbors jealous. I just figured out though, that when I bought it, it didn't come with an Owners Manual. I have a few questions, if anyone can help I'd really appreciate it!

    First: How do I set the seat postions to the pre-set buttons on the door?

    Second: How do I change the names on the trip computer when I first start the car?

    And Last: How do I get an owners manual without paying so much for one?

    Thanks for your time, I really appreciate!
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    I think you can download an owner's manual from (have to register and enter your VIN #).

    I think you can buy owner's manuals from - or check eBay (I've seen those up there before).

    Hope this helps,

  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Best bet is mygmlink for the manual.
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Posts: 60
    I am wondering if I have a cooling problem. While idling in 75 deg amb temp the coolant temp started to climb, never saw this before. After driving for a short distance in town the temp never went down. It was the next line above 200 F on the dash gage.
    Is there a temp switch that starts the fan? Is there a high speed setting for when temp gets over a certain temp? I'd like to check this out before getting stranded somewhere.
    BTW, the A/C wasn't on either. Thanks for the help.

  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    If the air conditioning is on, the fan should run. There is a high speed fan when the coolant gets hot. So, there may be a problem with the cooling fan/fans.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,697
    When the air conditioning is not on, no fans run until the water temperature reaches some preset number. Your gauge may be off unless you have a digital readout to go along with it. Our 3800 engine hits the fans at about 217 degrees, if I recall correctly, the fans run until it cools down to about 200 or 205 and then turn off.

    You say it never went down even when moving. Were you moving through still air? Or was the air going the same direction you were giving no airflow through the radiator? If you're moving above 30-35, the air flow should cool the car down. In stop and go traffic that won't hold true.

    You can check your fan switching on by idling in your garage after a drive in the car. Watch the gauge and the fans should turn on before the gauge gets much above the normal mark. The boiling point for 50-50 antifreeze mix under 15 lbs pressure cap is about 229 or somewhere in that range. So the fans turn on to keep the coolant below that level and avoid boiling. I'll hear my fans turn on in winter pulling up to autoteller after driving normally and sitting and idling.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Remember, the first-gen Aurora does not have a traditional grille - it gets fresh air from under the front bumper. If the car is not moving, it's not getting cool air. Plus, the fans don't kick on until _I think_ around 230 degrees. I know this sounds a bit hot, but the Northstars do tend to run a little on the hot side (normal operating temp of my Aurora 4.0 is 195 degrees, versus 170 degrees on my wife's old GTP/3800 SC).

    If I am sitting idling, and/or in traffic, I keep my eye on the temps (especially if the A/C is on). If it gets over 240, I turn the car off and let it cool, when possible. It's only after you've been driving it at highway speeds for a few minutes that it will cool back down...

  • dr_turbodr_turbo Posts: 60
    Thanks guys for all the responses. It does seem like this car runs hotter than most I have owned. I will at least check if the fan comes on when I turn the A/C on. I assume from an earlier post that it should? Anything else to check out in the meantime?
    I will keep close tabs on it as well. Thanks!!
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573

    Your observations about your '96 are consistent with my '97. The first mark above 200 on our temp gauges is 220 degrees F. I have confirmed this with my scan tool. This is much hotter than I think a car should run, but it seems the way most or all Classics operate. Mine has been this way for the six years I have owned it. I replaced the radiator (leaking) last year with no change in operating temp.

    According to my factory service manual, three conditions will turn the cooling fans on low speed: AC on, coolant temp over 229, trans fluid temp over 302. The fans are controlled by the PCM. There are three conditions that will turn the fans on high speed: coolant temp at or over 234, trans fluid temp over 304, certain diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).

    A 50/50 mixture of water and ethylene glycol with 15 psi pressure cap boils at 260 degrees.

    I suggest that you check the air deflector under the front bumper. It is a black piece of plastic the width of the radiator and about 10 inches front to back in the middle. Many of them are dragged off by hitting curbs. If the deflector is not in place, coolant temp will run about 10 degrees higher than with it in place; this is when the car is traveling with enough speed to force air through the radiator.

    BTW, around town my Aurora usually runs cooler with the AC on because the cooling fans are on.

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