Oldsmobile Aurora

95mushroom

I know its not an Aurora. We'll probably never have anything like it again. Just exploring options.

A gen. 3 rora would have been like an 04 STS. RWD but with curvy styling and lighter-weight. Probably with the Bonny's 4.6L 275hp N*. You just got me thinking/drooling

sls002

I doubt that a third gen aurora would have been on the STS platform. However, Buick is said to be getting a RWD top of the line replacement for the Park Avenue. This car is supposed to be a zeta platform model. I don't think there will ever be a replacement for the first generation Aurora. The second gen did not do anything for me.

hammen2

I doubt very much that, had Oldsmobile lived, that a third-generation Aurora would have been based on the STS RWD platform. The CTS, STS, and SRX ride on a Cadillac-exclusive Sigma RWD platform. The upcoming GM RWD platform is "Zeta" and it's being engineered by Holden in Australia - it's a replacement for the platform my GTO is based on (an old Opel design, IIRC).

More likely than not, a third-gen Aurora would have still been FWD, like the upcoming Buick Lucerne (LeSabre replacement). I'm not sure if that car will have a NorthStar or the same 5.3L V8 that's in the new Grand Prix GXP. The 4.6L 275 hp NorthStar is a FWD-only engine - the new NorthStar in the STS is 320 hp and RWD-only.

Had Aurora lived to be a 4th-gen car, it would probably have moved to RWD on the upcoming Zeta platform. I would have hoped later generations would have taken more styling risks than the conservative design of the second-gen. But I guess we'll never know.

As most of you know, I couldn't pass up the deals on the GTO (do not test-drive one, you will be hooked and will think of what body parts/family members you can sell to get one - the car is the automotive equivalent of drugs, I'm guessing :-). Unfortunately, my particular car turned out to be a lemon, so GM is in the process of exchanging it for another. But I plan to keep driving the GTO from April through October, then the Aurora in the wintertime, for a number of years (only have 89k on the Aurora and figure she's good for another few years).

I can only hope that either Pontiac or Buick's RWD Zeta cars will be something like Holden's Commodore line:

http://www.holden.com.au/www-holden/action/vehicleentry?vehicleid- =4

I would take a LHD Commodore SS in a heartbeat...

--Robert

sls002

I think that the zeta platform is to replace the commodore line. It certainly is to replace the current GTO platform.

The RWD northstar has VVT (variable valve timing), and probably the FWD northstar will not be upgraded to this. The Deville will get a major facelift for 2006, but will keep the current FWD platform and engine as far as I know. I don't know where Cadillac is going with the Deville. It will become a DTS (D-series model) and this may be much higher priced.

I really like my Seville LS (275 hp northstar & 3.11:1 axle). Performance is as good or better than the 98 Aurora's and handling is quite good. For handling, a shorter wheelbase and lighter body is better. The GTO should be a much better handling car than the Aurora. Of course one gives up some of the luxury that the Aurora had.

hammen2

...the new Commodore is the first Zeta car (Holden did the engineering for the platform). The first American Zeta will be a Buick (like the VElite, don't know about sedan), and there will also be Chevy and Pontiac coupes (Camaro and/or Chevelle, GTO) and sedans (Impala, Bonneville/Grand Prix/G8) models.

I haven't driven an SLS, but a co-worker has a 2001 STS and I swear my airbox-modded, K&N filtered '98 Autobahn Aurora is a quicker car. The STS does handle better (need new struts and shocks on my Aurora), but the GTO is in another league, even if it's only 200 lbs lighter than the Aurora (build 'em rugged for the outback, I guess). The GTO seats are great but you're right, the Aurora level of luxury isn't there. Hope it will be in the next-gen (should be, for the $$$ they are charging).

--Robert

flaaurora

The light came on my 1995, there seems to be no noticeable drivability problems, it was suggested to disconnect the battery. My question is, can I disconnect at the cable block under the hood or do I have to go directly to the battery under the seat?

imidazol97

If it's a steady light, it means emissions system has a problem. Have you checked the gas cap for a good seal? Is the rubber ring around the gas cap in good shape and soft? Try some vaseline on it if it's not soft.

Check the tubes around the charcoal cannister if you can identify it in the engine compartment.

On my LeSabre the system checks for gas system sealing when it's restarted at lukewarm temperatures. Take a drive until the engine starts to warm up slightly on the gauge. Stop for a few minutes. Then restart. The light may go off if you've sealed up the system and if that was the problem.

sls002

My 98 Aurora was a base model, a program car with no optional equipment. However, the autobahn Aurora's did 0-60 in about 8 seconds for the magazines. The STS was in the low 7's (7.25 second) I think. The SLS does not have the computer suspension, or the expense of maintaining it. With your modifications, perhaps you are near the STS's performance. What I notice is that the A/C compressor does not put as big a dent in performance on the SLS as it did on the Aurora.

2k1olds

know if the engine cover from a 2001-2003 4.0 will fit the Classic?

blk97aurora

There is a current eBay auction for a set of 2003 Aurora 17 x 7.5 stock chrome wheels. I have absolutely no affiliation with the auctioner. I am posting this info because I know these wheels are a popular mod for Classics. My '97 rolls on a set of non-chrome 17" wheels from a 2001.

Les

rjs200240

Hey Les, got a link? Are they the regular wheels or the Final 500's? I'm not really in the market, but always curious.

2K1Olds, don't you have a new and classic? Couldn't you just try it? It might work, but I'd imagine you'd have to do a little trimming or something as the engines are pretty different. Someone at one point on another forum posted that their dealer switched covers on their classic to a "different" one. Seemed like maybe the dealer messed up the original or something. Anyway, they never posted picts or followed up much, but it seemed like it *could* have been that the dealer put a 2001+ cover on their car. So it *may* work.

pat

Check out the eBay links on the left - clicking through from them is always helpful to the Town Hall.

2k1olds

Actually I do have a new and a classic, but the new is a 3.5, not a 4.0

blk97aurora

eBay link to 17x7.5 non-500 chrome Aurora wheels:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item- =7937585342&fromMakeTrack=true

Les

rjs200240

Seems odd that tires on 2003 wheels would be dry-rotting, but I suspect they may be old tires as the Aurora didn't come with Eagle RS-A's on the 17" wheels. It might make me a little cautious about how they were stored, though. Thanks for the link.

95mushroom

rjs, yea car wash scracthes could mean anything. Also he posted only one pic of one wheel.

gisom

Well fellas, I was driving from the shopping mall yesterday and was sitting at the stoplight getting ready to make a left turn when I started smelling gas. I make the turn and stop at a clear spot to check the smell. Pop the hood, I see gas gushing out and poof my sweet 95 is in flames. The engine compartment and trans took a beating. The fire department buzzed saw the hood because I closed it hoping it would squash the fire. I had gotten my recall in Sept. and had GM inspect it in Oct. and they said everything was OK. Do I see a lawyer or what? I had just bought a new set of tires on Thurs. The body shop manager said that because the car was 9 yrs old count on it being totalled. The damage is in the engine compartment only but I think with the trans being in there too, he is probably right. I am now waiting until monday for claim adjuster and will start looking for a 99 classic. I have Farmers Insurance and they will take good care of me. I am going to miss my classic.

With Tears in my eyes
Greg

rjs200240

Man, sorry to hear about that! Glad you weren't hurt, though! I have no idea what you should do, but your insurance company should be able to give you at least some advice.

95mushroom

Damn man, thats terrible. All that matters is you're okay. Yea like RJS said see what your insurance company says and maybe contact a few attorneys if your serious enough. They took your baby after all ;-|

Sorry, I know this isn't the right time, but is there anyway we can get a copy of your reports? Just black out your info. I think this is reason enough to get them to replace our rails w/stainless before this actually hurts someone.

Henry

My condolences on your loss. However, ther is a 95 out there with your name on it.

If they do total the car, think about selling a few parts to your fellow Aurians. That way you will know that somewhere out there, your car lives on. . .

Old Aurora don't retire, they just fade away.

kayaman420

Gisom I would definately seek the advise of a lawyer man. I bet they would have a field day with this.

Did they refuse to give you the recall service ???

Either way you are atleast getting a new Aurora out of this.

Henry

Have you guys replaced the washer fuild reserve tank because of the metal ring that rusts away? My dealer told me to expect to spend a few hundred dollars to do this. I think the price is a little high. Did anyone do it themselves????

 

Henri

march94aurora

I removed my washer fluid tank and found remnants of what was about a 2" long x 3/4" dia rusty pipe with a collar on it. It is kind of inside of where the large rubber tube connects to the tank. I can't see where it serves any purpose. Perhaps it is to keep the rubber hose from collapsing??. Anyway I removed this metal pipe and the washer works just fine without it. No more rusty water.

 

Paul (1995)

95mushroom

I've replaced most of my washer unit as it sprays horribly, just drips out of the left one. All you have to do is remove the l.f. wheel and inner fender. Remove the two bolts holding the tank on and the retainer clip where it connects to the rubber hose.

 

I removed almost my hold system and don't remember seeing a metal pipe w/washer. I just had blue slush built up at the bottom tank from concentrate fluids. I have a month off from school so I might try and tinker with it. As its still not spraying well. Looks like new pump time.

 

Could the metal ring be the metal tube at the end of the reserve tank to prevent the retainer clip from crushing the plastic tank you guys are talking about?

dac350

I just bought a 99 Aurora and had one question. We just had the first snow here in Ohio so I got the traction active light. When it was active I could hear a buzz from under the hood. The TCS appears to work fine, I just didn't know if it suppose to make a noise. If not, what could be wrong? Thanks.

rjs200240

That's the ABS module doing its thing to reign in the car and get some traction. You'll hear a similar thing if you lock the brakes up. It's normal.

dac350

Cool, thanks for the info. I was worried there for a minute.

eddiew

2001 Oldsmobile Aurora

After reading 50% of the posts on this board...now,I am planning to get a Certified 2001 3.5L Olds Aurora (one owner, off lease) with:

25,000 miles,

silver color,

leather,

CD player,

On star,

moon roof

remote start

for $12,000.

  

Is this a good price?

The sales manager is asking $1,200 w/ $100 deductable for a 3yr/30000miles bumper-to-bumper GM warranty...seems pricy to me...

  

Many many thanks!

pat

Also hop over to the Real-World Trade-In Values discussion and ask Terry. Be sure to read the posting guidelines (in red) so you can give him all the info he'll need to tell you what it's worth.

 

Good luck - let us know how it turns out.

gudge

1997 Aurora. New Alternator. New Ignition control module. Voltage on the digital read out fluctuated between 12.5 & 14.7 volts. Traction control shuts off and car becomes very hard to drive at 12.5 volts. The problem becomes worse the longer the car runs.

2k1olds

It's snowed about 9 inches so far today, and this is the first time I have driven my 97 in the snow. A question- when the traction control kicks in, do you keep accelerating? Doing this did not seem to help me get traction, it actually seemed to hurt it. Any tips?

 

John

hammen2

Have you had the battery tested?

hammen2

When my Classic's traction control comes on, it whirrs/growls, and I lift off the pedal until I get traction - I don't keep pushing down.

 

(My GTO actually pushes the gas pedal back against my feet - this is only when cornering, as my GTO won't be driven in winter).

 

--Robert

sls002

I let up on the accelerator till the buzzing stops. In general, if its slippery, I take it very easy. If you need to, the traction control can be turned off, allowing the wheels to spin freely. This may be useful if you are stuck and need to try some forward and then backward movement to get out. Stop before shifting gears though or the transmission will be damaged.

gudge

The battery is new also.

hammen2

Sounds like there may be something else going on (ground fault/stray voltage somehow). Have you double-checked the battery connections?

knowido

whats up with the 1995 aurora and the ob1 with the ob2conector is that true &does the 95have a speed limiter too

hammen2

Yes, the '95 is ODB-I but it has the ODB-II connector. '96 and up are truly ODB-II. This makes it difficult to read codes from the '95's...

 

Yes, there is a speed limiter on all Auroras, unless they have the "Autobahn" package.

 

Hope this helps,

 

--Robert

chstr1000

My 1996 Aurora is getting ready to turn 121,xxx miles. I've owned it for a little over 2 years and have put 45,xxx miles on it. It is has been a great car. I've had the normal problems like vibration around 65 mph and the low speed steering problems. Had engine seals and gaskets, a.c. comp.,alternator, and radiator replaced (thank goodness for the extended warranty)! I also had the fuel rails replaced by GM. The car is as tight or tighter than most newer cars. It drives and runs as good as when I bought it! I don't know of many other makes of cars that can say that!

 

I would like some input on something though. I have always used regular motor oil. It uses about 1 quart between 3000 mile services. With the miles on it now, would it be worth switching to syncthetic oil? And if so, could it be driven more than 3000 miles between changes, like on regular oil?

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

aurora5000

One thing that was done on the original Northstar engines was a process called plateau honing. In this process the cylinder walls are "marked" with a very agressive hone that leaves fairly deep scratches. The high points of the hone pattern are then smoothed with a second hone plateauing off the tops or tips of the "peaks". Under a micorscope this looks like a flat platueau with relatively deep, narrow crevices for oil retention. This process worked very well for oil retention and durability but was inconsistent for oil consumption to some extent. The current process has been improved with a more conventional hone that is not deliberately plateaued and is more consistent. Plus it uses the diamond stones that last far longer and are much more consistent over time.

 

The other thing that the modern engines sacrifice oil consumption for is friction. The thinner rings and lighter spring load rings are desireable for power, sealing of compression, less friction and lighter mass for less ring flutter at high speeds. Unfortunately, there is no free lunch here, and the lighter rings let a little more oil by.

 

The 2000 and later Northstar engines get hard anodized top ring lands to resist pound out and wear since the ring lands were moved closer to the top of the piston. One unfortunate side effect of the hard anodizing is the microscopic "pebbly" finish of the anodizing that tends to cause lack of seating of the SIDE of the ring to the SIDE of the ring land. This pebbly area will retain oil and cause oil consumption until the anodizing is polished smooth as the rings "break in" to the ring lands. The anodizing is hard, however, so that is why the "drive it like you stole it" advice works , particularily on later Northstars, to ensure good break in and sealing for less oil consumption. Many of the oil consumption complaint engines that have been analyzed at the factory had the anodizing on the piston ring lands virtually unscathed...as in never broken in due to gently driving and babying. The engine likes heavy loads, high RPM to break in completely.

 

The heavy load/high RPM also promotes ring rotation on the piston to keep the rings freed up and mobile. The oil comsumption complaints from the older Northstars typically come about due to ring sticking in the ring lands due to carbon buildup and the rings gradually getting stuck in place. they have to move to work. Keep them exercised.

 

 Syn. oil is the only way to go. I use Mobil 1 and go 7K on oil change & filter.

knowido

yes i thought so ,,thanks robert!

imidazol97

Do you have this kind of knowledge about the 3800 engine used by other GM cars? I'd be interested in hearing about the differences between the 3800 and Series II, e.g.

Henry

Over the years I have noticed that the passenger side front tire always seems to be the one that loses air. This is true even when i rotate the tires. Today, the tire went flat. I am just curious if anyone else has experienced low tire pressure on the front right tire. I am not saying that this is a problem, I am just saying that over the years it is always this tire as opposed to any one of the others.

hammen2

Funny, I've had 3 sets of tires (the stock Michelin MXVs, then Dunlop SP Sport A2's, and now BF Goodrich Traction T/A's), rotated every 6-7k miles, and it's ALWAYS the driver's side front tire that gets low. I have to check the tire pressure every 2-3 days and pump it back up (thanks to the $20 portable compressor I bought due to this problem) about once a week.

 

--Robert

2k1olds

I lose about 2 to 3 pounds per day in my left front tire. I have had the valve replaced as well as bead sealer put on. These are like new Michelin MXV4 Plus tires. Guess it needs to go into a dip tank soon.

gudge

In an earlier post I wrote that my 97 had voltage fluctuations which caused the alternator to operate erratically. I fixed the problem by going to alldatadiy.com and printing out the grounding points for the car. I tightened all of the grounding points and the problem is gone.

95mushroom

Anyone have an idea on the interchangeable of the front hubs? I mostly likely going to get one from car-part.com. I get a number of cars, LeSabre, Eldorados, and even a Pontiac TransPort lol.

 

There was a NOS hub on ebay for 97-99s and the guy said they will not fit 95-96.

huskerfan_1

Do you think I made a mistake on trading in my '97 with only 73,000 miles, but was told the lower case half gasket or main seal was going out. There has been a oil leak from the front of the oil pan for some time. You could see the oil spray on the pan from underneath the car. I did not want to face the possiblity of having to put $$$ in it when I still owed plenty on it. I got totally raped in the trade, but that happens a lot.

 

Yes, the car looked cool. But, in a lot of ways I don't miss it. Like the premium fuel, high cost of insurance and license fees. The new car is only a $30.00 more for insurance and less for license.

Henry

No.

 

How much did u get on the trade? What did you get? What did it cost you?

huskerfan_1

You know what they put on paper is not actually what you got. But, I gave them $10K plus the car on which I owed $3400. They were asking $16,900. I went quite a bit smaller, but I thought the Aurora was a boat. I found it difficult to move and park. So I really don't miss that. Now, don't laugh when I say I got a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am SE2, bright red, chrome wheels. Same as the GT but without the Ram air. It had 3,800 miles, was registered to GM and was never in the public before I got it. I got the additional 3,000 mile warranty because it was certified along with 3.9%. Which was important because I did not want to spend $20K on a car. It has leather, sun roof, XM radio and all that good stuff. I really don't miss the tempurature or the direction read out, but i do miss the dimming rear view mirror and I can figure my gas mileage on paper.