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2010+ Buick Lacrosse Engine and Powertrain Problems



  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,713
    That stability when under pressure by the wind from one side is a factor of the shape of the car as well as the weight distribution of the car, along with couple of other factors. If the shape is such that the pressure from a gust cause by a semi or by going through an open area with a side wind is centered about where the weight distribution of the car is located, the car doesn't change angle by much due to the pressure from the sideways wind.

    A factor with the weight distribtuion is how the front tires compared to the back tires resist sideways movement with their grip.

    This message has been approved.

  • Sure, slopes go in both directions but cars generally will roll down a hill rather than up.

    No OEM warranties on anything in my packets. Have I been "taken"?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Update on tire warranty. It appears there have been some changes compared to what was on 09 Malibu or my memory blew it.
    In the warranty booklet it shows 12000 miles for tires at 100%. But at 12001 you loose about a 1/3.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Was there not a small warranty booklet in your packet?
    I took a look into mine and rather surprised what was not covered under the powertrain.
  • Yes, the Buick Limited Warranty and Owner info booklet has the GM warranty schedule for tires. I had not seen that before. Thanks for pointing me to it. However, what I had become accustomed to from past new vehicle purchases was a warranty from the tire manufacturer. That's what I was looking for and did not see. Car manufacturers used to not want to get into the tire warranty business and shifted all claims to the tire supplier. Times change. Guess I should buy cars less than 10 years apart.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I'm glad that helped.
    I took a look at the OnStar terms and conditions booklet this morning. It is longer than the user book and just about has me freaked after only reading a little more than half. It is enough to have me considering cancelling even the free portion. Maybe a Philidelphia lawyer can advise but it seems to have more loopholes and whose accountable, yet limits them severely statements than I can imagine necessary for having such a feature.
    Having the system active you agree to much I'm not sure I comprehend, but it sounds like that would give them permission to monitor voice for keywords via super computers that would catch keywords or phrases. Example mention buying or shopping new camera and you are suddenly inundated with junk mail offers/deals for cameras. Even snail mail since they have your address.
    And the way I read it, if someone wants money from them because of this post, they can pay it and charge me for it, possibly under the part mentioning reputation.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I was at the alldata site a few days ago. One of their features is being able to get recall, TSB, etc, info. But to get the full details you have to have a subscription for that vehicle. And unfortunately it looks like they could be two years away from having a subscription available for the 2011. So what I got to see is that there is some sort of TSB concerning tranny and shifting.
    Anyone having tranny issues besides the guy who needed a rebuild in only about 1000 miles?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Just past 1600 miles mine did it for the first time. It is quite loud and sounds like someone hit something metal with a small hammer. It seemed that it came from the front.
    I glanced around the left bank of engine (front) and did not see an outright reason. I did notice that there might be an early stage catalytic converter right at the manifold. This might be making exhaust gases downstream extra hot. Assuming the right bank is the same, perhaps it comes from sudden heating. Although dual exhaust I doubt it is two pipes straight to the rear without some sort of crossover or Y pipe. And then there is that section of pipe just after the early stage converter that is ribbed. Possibly intended to take up expansion.
    Stories of replacing entire exhaust system seem like overkill. Possibly shotgunning the problem until the real nature is learned.

    Does anyone know the real fix?
    Is it possibly related to ambient temperature?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My curiosity has come up with why is BP not on the Top Tier List?

    Has anyone been using BP?

    There is some interesting info including a statement from BP that there fuel is better than Top Tier but to be on the list they had to submit a package of their additives for review and then be bound to use them for at least one year. Their choice was not to be told what to add to their fuel, they claim.

    Also BP has been recommended in some Ford vehicles and the BP logo is actually on the gas cap.

    I did run across that Ford is apparently in part ownership of some of BP's area of expertise. It may have been in LPG marketing and I'd have to double check that.
    Anolther statement claims GM is behind the Top Tier and that Ford and Chrysler were not involved.
    I would like to hear what GM says concerning BP's claim they are better than top tier.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    On a recent run, 2 tankfuls round trip, I had gotten 28 MPG. Shortly after I got back it seemed my local driving mileage had dropped about 3 MPG. I had mentioned it to dealer and they told me they did not even consider mileage complaints until past 5000 miles. Since then I made a round trip to WI and about half way there I passed the 3000 mark for breakin. Highway mileage was down about 3MPG the entire trip. At the other end I had a dead battery. They sent jump and guy broke part of battery case. After idling for 50 minutes I gently increased idle to assess charging voltage that seemed whacked. At 1500 RPM the vehicle started shaking like it had cylinder unbalance. Good part is no oil consumed but something is definitely awry. Next morning it was slow to turn over so I took to local dealer. A very big dealer handling the complete GM line. I told them about the engine shaking and battery problem. The tested battery and replaced. They dismissed the engine issue claiming it was because of low voltage with bad battery. Subsequently I learned they replaced my 3 mo. old OE battery with a 30 month. Obviously this is wrong also. I now have appointment for Wed. for these issues, other issues, and parts recieved that they ordered prior to this. My mileage chart follows.
    total miles trip miles MPH MPG Miles Gallons actual MPG Notes
    1871 trip start/Chevron
    2196 325.2 48 mph 23.7 mpg 325.2 13.397 24.27 mpg start all Shell
    2670 798.5 57.5 mph 24.3 mpg 473.3 18.9 25.06 mpg
    2878 1006.3 61.9 mph 23.7 mpg 207.8 8.221 25.27 mpg
    3174 1243 40.6 mph 21.2 mpg 296 14.603 20.27 mpg 100 miles local
    3283 1352.9 21.2 mph 18.3 mpg 109.5 5.987 18.29 mpg 1 hr idle charge battery
    3524 1593.9 40.4 mph 25.3 mpg 241 9.015 26.73 mpg 1 1/2 hr traffic jam
    3810 1879.8 67 mph 25.8 mpg 285.9 10.588 27.00 mpg
    4132 2201.4 66.4 mph 24.5 mpg 321.6 13.185 24.38 mpg
    4380 2450.4 59.7 mph 24.0 mpg 248.7 9.485 26.22 mpg trip end
    2508.8 103.381 24.268 MPG Totals
    Oddometer and trip 1 totals agree. Trip 2 was reset at beginning and not touched till end. If using 2450.4 as miles, mileage drops to 23.7 mpg. Could it have something to do with dead battery?
    I don't know that they are connected, but I had the loud clangs at start for a short period of time and it was then that I first noticed drop in MPG. There is no service engine light.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I have noticed that what is in 09 3.8L and 11 3.6L is a pinkish coolant. GM specifies Dexcool. Have they changed their Dexcool formulation? I noticed GM Dexcool on shelf at dealer parts and it said orange on the bottle. They also had the green stuff. We are not supposed to mix colors so it seems I need to ask if pink is available.
  • gberpagberpa Posts: 44
    Not exactly on topic, but coolant was low in our '98 Grand Prix (90+K miles and am now doing only what is needed to keep it going for spouses local shopping). I added name brand new ethylene glycol (and equal amount of water) from daughter's garage to my oveflow tank.

    A few weeks later, had my coolant checked for temp protection, acidity, etc and they said it was good on those scores but had sediment and recommended a flush/changeout. Returned later to do this and they said it couldn't be done due to excess sediment and I might need a heavy duty flush at a radiator specialist. Manager at the garage and a service writer at current dealer also said I might be better off leaving it alone as a strong flush might dislodge plugged up leaks!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Seems like a very good place to me, powertrain/coolant.
    I have heard of such things happening and such blocking is usually due to corrosion. Leaks might be attributed to that at a second stage as well as seals failing. And there is also the nemesis of electrolytic corrosion which will produce leaks. A quick check for that can be done by using a cheap volt meter and putting one probe into the radiator mouth and the other to the negative terminal of battery. Also with key on and engine running. It would be in the millivolt range but over time it will eat system up.
    As to dislodging plugged leaks, that is true. But you are then taking a chance with what is basically a failed radiator. It will not cool properly and could show up when temps are hotter and possibly damage engine. Also the metal may be nearly eaten through and it is just waiting for the chance of pressure building to the burst point.
    I would look for a reputable radiator shop that guarantees their work. If capable, you can save a lot of money if you remove and take to shop, but you must also make certain it is properly reinstalled. You also are certain that they have not added some sort of plugging material to the coolant to get you down the street that way. Some shops have the capability of removing end tanks and putting new seals in. Check if they can do it to yours. Sometimes this is the only way to get hard scale out of core, remove end tanks and push a rod through the core channels. If badly corroded it also increase the risk of puncture.
    When you have a price for radiator repair, check with radiator suppliers for price of new one and make sure it is warranted. They sometimes have OE radiator.

    If you decide to proceed, I would run a heavy duty flush through system before dismantling so that it has a chance to clean the inside of engine. It will at least rid any oily films that have occurred which impede heat transfer.
    To do properly is rather lengthy. First you need to flush all coolant from system including heater core and block. Often the easiest way is to remove drains and thermostat. Run water through cold engine before reassembling thermostat housing. If there is a coolant control valve in coolant for heater you will need to have it energized to ensure flushing of heater core. That usually means running engine with air conditioner in heat mode. Then again draining and flushing as much as possible from block and radiator. Since at this point your main aim is cleaning of block and heater core, it would be best to have thermostat installed when adding the super flush to the system. You will otherwise have a hard time reaching operating temperature so the flush does its job.
    And then you need to flush as much of the flushing chemical from the system as possible. If your drinking water has a lot of minerals in it, you might consider pouring some distilled water through block from thermostat housing to get rid of much of that hard or acid water. There is usually so much water left in block that you might have a hard time reaching a 50/50 mix. In such cases you can more easily achieve that mix by pouring some straight coolant into the block with radiator drain open and watch for the color change at the drain plug. You may see a faint color change at first while it is pushing mostly water out.
    Finally close up system except fill point and add straight coolant until you have the calculated percentage you want, of the system capacity. 50/50 is considered factory minimum. Jug of coolant should have chart for higher percentages of mix for boiling and freezing points. It is not useful to go above their highest percentages.
    BTW, definitely check all hoses before installing new coolant. If you smell hot coolant in vehicle in heat mode you likely have a leaking heater core or leak at hose attachment point. You don't need to breathing those quite toxic fumes. If OE hoses are less than 10 years old they should be OK. If replacing, it is best to reuse OE clamps. And best to buy OE hoses or something that lasts as long as OE's do these days. By cheap and you will likely need hose replacement in year or two, far shorter than the 5yr/150K of long life coolants.
    To make it simpler, Ford says to put in what the OE color of coolant was. GM usually says Dexcool and at least one version they sell now is orange, it gets a bit confusing because mine is pinkish and calls for Dexcool.
    Good Luck.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Oops! Just realized you are talking about Gran Prix.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I commented in another post that 3.6L is shaking like misfire when idled up to around 1500 RPM. And a couple of days ago it also did it with cold start idling at 1000 RPM. This is one of specific complaints listed when I dropped off vehicle this morning. It was not ready at closing. They validated complaint and were waiting for sales to bring over a new one quite similar so they could see if it was normal.
    On don't know on what planet that would be normal, but possibly. Can everyone give theirs a quick check to see if you detect the same. Either way it just does not seem normal so maybe many of us have hidden issue.
    Strangely, they commented about no existing TSB for issue. I'm hoping it just means they have to jump through a couple of corporate loops to proceed.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Service just called saying that engine imbalance around 1500 RPM exists in all 3.6L. No explanation as to why.
    What say you?
  • gberpagberpa Posts: 44
    My car was cold and not driven for a day or so. Since we are expecting snow this weekend, I want to be sure the battery is OK. I just started it up in my garage and rpm was initially at about 1300, no vibration. It then drops to about 800-1000 rpm (no vibe). Pulling out on my driveway, and revving and, while hard to hold it exact at 1500, but bracketing this, it seems smooth to me.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks for the reply. I am doing it in neutral revving to around 1500. It is hard to hold exactly as you say and my shaking is about plus or minus a couple of hundred RPM.
    My wife said this afternoon she never noticed shaking and told her I'd show her when I picked it up. She felt it immediately, probably through passenger seat.

    Either every 3.6L should be doing it or it is not normal and I'm not satisfied with their answer that it is normal. I know some vehicles have built in protections via various limiters. My daughters truck is one. It will not rev past about 2500 RPM unless it is in gear. That is certainly not the case here because it revs up farther and smooths out.
    I will accept reasonable explanations and normal is not an explanation. There seems to be a 3 point connection. Maybe related. That is the gas mileage dropped suddenly about the same time as I had a few days of the loud metallic clank others have complained about. About 1300 miles later I discovered the rough idle at 1500 RPM.
    Whatever the cause it doesn't seem it would be good for longevity of engine. It could be something in the combustion chamber, perhaps related to clanging which some say is exhaust related, maybe a restriction, the ignition system, fuel injection, or even the computer.
    BTW, computer is not considered part of powertrain warranty.
    Thanks again.
  • gberpagberpa Posts: 44
    Your welcome, no problem given how much you offer here.

    BTW, its been a week since I had my 2011 CXS at about 2700 miles in for punch list items including the replacing the long exhaust pipe from the preconverter to the muffler. No 'clang' noises since in about 10-20 starts. I told the service manager before the replacement that from the time he ordered the part to the scheduled appointment, that the frequency of 'clangs' had decreased and was actually at zero for about 8 starts prior to the appointment. But, they thought replacement was the best bet from prior cases.
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