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2010+ Buick Lacrosse Body, Chassis and Exterior

e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
As the title says, issues related to Body, Chassis, & exterior. Such things as Brakes, Styling, Suspension, Wheels, Tires, Wash and Detail.
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Comments

  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I have seen a couple of complaints about mileage.
    Essensially we should all have near same cars on exterior. Main factors would be which engine, the tire - Michelin or GY, or other possible influences such as a spoiler.
    Such discussion might narrow the possibilties for those who have issue with poor milage.
    I ask those with poor mileage post please. There are far fewer complaints than those satisfied, which makes you a smaller group, and more difficult to help.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Did anyone experience what might be a point where the mileage started improving significantly, like maybe broke-in?
    From what I am currently seeing, I hope so to some degree. Not enough miles to make an accurate judgment. Still learning other nuances as well.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Car is only one week old and I discovered a flaw at one headlamp. Looking through the clear layer, along the top I have chrome that is in a rope pattern. There are gaps where it is not shiny.
    I guess I'll have to have them tear apart stuff to replace. Darned! I can only hope it is easy and does not require removing most of the front.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Your simple yes to all questions is vague.
    Do you know they actually remounted tires per RFB?
    They rotated? Was it per RFB machine or some other rotation to help locate issue on vehicle?
    You might check to see if any of the tires have excess weights on wheel at either inside or outside location. I was told years ago by tire man that new tires with less than 1 1/2 ounce of weight are generally good. 1 or less is best.
  • djaadjaa Posts: 8
    Sorry for being vague, I guess I'm trying to look past the RFB for ideas. They did breakdown 2 tires and reindex them, they did rotate many different ways to find the least vibration. They have the latest and greatest that Hunter Corp. has to offer. The wieghts are not excessive on any wheel! The part I left out in the beginning is, I am a certified auto tech in suspension systems. The shop I work at has the very same Hunter equipment. I have done the very same thing with no luck. One RF # was 22 I got it down to 5. Another RF # was 16 I got it down to 6. The other two RF # were 7 and 11. Machine was dialed in for performance tires. I took it back to them (the dealer) because it is "their vehicle", they have the engineers that designed the car, and I have a bumper to bumper warranty that came with the dearly priced car. I am merely looking for other people with the same problem to get some other ideas or what might of fixed their vibration. My heart sinks everytime I drive it and think about the money I paid for the the smooth ride that the "New class of world class" should give!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    You certainly have more experience than I.
    Has anyone looked elsewhere for the source?
    Did it move with moving the tires? Were you even able to tell where the source is?
    Front, back, or a side?

    With all you've tried so far, it might seem to be something other than a tire or wheel. Possibly an unbalanced brake rotor or drive shaft?
    You mentioned the effected speed. Does it change in that range if you apply acceleration or deceleration? Or braking?
    When mounted does the wheel run true, that is absolutely no wobble? You might have a dial indicator in your toolbox ;-)
    Hope they get this for you.
  • djaadjaa Posts: 8
    All I got from the dealer at this point is they had another person complain (their first and only other) so they went to work on his, swapping tires, rotors, half shafts, strut assys., control arms, with another car and nothing changed it. The guy wasnt really satisfied but supposed nothing else could be done, so he just accepted it. No car should drive like that right out of the gate!!!

    I feel the vibration in my seat, in the footwell, and up through the steering wheel. The steering wheel has a slight wobble to it. It was worse before they RFB and rotated the tires. Of course they told me with these low profile speed rated tires they easily get flat spots sitting and that it takes some miles to warm them up and run true. They are Michelins, the best of the best. The service manager said the 2010 had Goodyears, and switched to Michelin to help solve this problem. Yes at this point I think it is something other than tires/rims!

    The best I can tell in the effected speeds (52-70ish), it will vibrate as you accel up through the speeds. When you level off at any point in that effected area it seems to be rithmic, it vibrates than runs smooth, it vibrates than runs smooth, vibrates than runs smooth. If you decel it vibrates until under the effected speed.

    I am waiting to hear what the service manager heres from the GM rep. Im afraid in the end they will say thats just the nature of the chassis and then I'm up the creek without a paddle. My neighbor is a lawyer. He is going to spell out for me the Lemon Law for Indiana, just in case. I just keep hoping GM will come up with a TSB (technical service bulletin) concerning the issue, a fix for this model year already produced, not next model year not yet produced.

    I love and am impressed with the LaCrosse, but theres no excuse for the vibration this top of the line luxury car has!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    That it comes and goes under identical conditions might be a clue.
    I had some vibration on Malibu that started around 1K and continued till about 3K. It came and went with accel, decel, incline, decline, and did not show up much on flat road. I suspect it was the CV joints breaking themselves in.
    What you described might be synco-pathic. One place I've seen it is when imperfect wheels, that is the wheel, tire, and balance, rotate at slightly different speeds and when the problem gets into sync or a harmonic of it the problem shows up and then seems to go away unexplained. The problem is obviously in some rotating part. How bad it is might be dependant upon the tightness of suspension joints. I've driven tighter.
    I wonder if they swapped sway/torsion bar?
    I've heard that after alignment, balance, and other obvious checks fail, the next stop is frame shop. That is to make sure mounting points of sub frame and rear suspension are correct. That is, the wheels might be aligned but the body is actually askew. It might give you the feeling that one tire is low on pressure and effect the ability of stabilizer bar.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Other than the harshness with touring package, it seems fairly good, and I believe that to be because of the Eagle RSA tire.
    Tires may also be fault of what I am about to describe. Some less than perfect spots in road will set it in a sway motion, side to side. The complaint is that it does not dampen this motion enough. It bounces back and forth several times until it settles out. Some of these seem to be avoided by putting in sport mode, but not all. It gives the feeling that there is play in suspension joints. It could be the quality of rubber bushings used at joints as well. Sometimes it ends up with the rear of the vehicle swaying.
    I can imagine this might be pretty dangerous on wet, snowy, or icy roads.

    Has anyone else noticed this?
    How is your vehicle equipped? Tires, H or 4-link suspension, regular or hyperstrut?
  • I had written a note earlier asking if anyone else had noticed a noise in the steering of their 2010 Buick Lacrosse CXS. Several people had replied that they had this problem and like me, their Dealers had advised them that Buick was aware of this problem and engineering was working on a solution. Today I rec'd a call from my Dealer advising that Buick had notified them that they have found the problem and was releasing the part (steering rack). Dealer had ordered the part, which is coming from Detroit and as soon as it comes in they will contact me to have it installed. I will advise if this solves my problem.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    That could certainly be a cause, some racks being defective. I hope it is your solution.
  • djaadjaa Posts: 8
    What type of noise are you hearing? My 2011 CXS has a moaning sound in the steering when turning out of a parking spot or driveway every now and then. I did see in the GM tech service bulletins that there is a problem but at that time a fix had not been found. Is it the intire rack assy. or just a part. I haven't complained about the noise as of yet. They are still waiting to here from the engineers about the vibration problem that I have at highway speeds.
  • It sounds like a "moan". The part that the Dealer is installing is the complete steering gear assembly. The Dealer is installing this part next Wednesday, 10/27, I'll advise whether this solves my problem or not.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Well, I found another thing missing that is usually on luxury vehicles, at least the ones I'm familiar with. I had five people in vehicle yesterday, trunk empty, tank near empty, and I could tell the rear was definitely lower. Any vehicle that I know of with load leveling would definitely have raised the rear. I no longer consider this vehicle a luxury sedan. Too many features missing that you'd find on a luxury vehicle.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,371
    When did you check the height?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    edited October 2010
    Is laminated glass the same as acoustic glass? On the Malibu the front side windows were labeled acoustic. On this car they are labeled laminated, and the windshield is labeled Acoustic, HUD.
    Answering my own question, glass could be laminated without meeting acoustic properties level. Safety glass is laminated glass.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I did not measure but was in flat land. Vehicle feels level with just me or me and wife, but with the stated load I could definitely feel that the rear was down. I suspect it will be much worse if tank is full and trunk loaded.
  • Have had to take the Lacrosse back for several fixes including whining in steering the dealer has been really good about getting fixing these things. But I have sqeaking on the passanger side rear of the car that is obvious during driving and annoying, When I took it back to the dealer they are saying it is an normal body noises. Is anyone else experiencing the same thing. I can't imagine this type of noise being normal for a brand new car. Help looking for some info
  • Have had to take the Lacrosse back for several fixes including whining in steering the dealer has been really good about fixing these things. But I have sqeaking on the passanger side rear of the car that is obvious during driving and annoying, When I took it back to the dealer they are saying it is an normal body noises. Is anyone else experiencing the same thing. I can't imagine this type of noise being normal for a brand new car. Help looking for some info
  • bobinorbobinor Posts: 63
    With less than 400 miles on my 2011 CXS my wife and I returned from a party last night amid a rain storm. The 11pm path home included a 17 mile stretch of winding 45 mph country roads with mostly 30 - 35 mph advised bends. The road was not only rain-slick but littered with leaves. My CXS handled surely as I took the curves well above the posted speeds (but not speeding, mind you). As I cornered through each one my confidence in this vehicle grew. I don't recall having such a good connection with the road under such trying conditions in other cars I've owned. My CXS has the Touring Pkg with the Goodyear low profiles and if that made any difference last night, it was well worth the added cost.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I have not yet driven on wet road.
    Suspension design will impact such, just as quality brakes aid, but the number one item is tires. If the tires are not up to the job, then brakes don't matter, nor suspension design.
    Typically, for much of the year we have rain, that is a high annual rainfall. And locally especially it is common for water to accumulate in puddles from the shoulders on to the road. Hydroplaning is a common risk. Therefore, for me tires must excell in wet performance. And because I have family in show country, they must also be rated well for such conditions.
    I'm deeply disappointed with the user rating of this tire compared to others in the same grouping.
    So far, no tire dealer wants these tires with less than 500 miles. New tires are about $1500.
    At one tire shop, they did not want them either and also felt much better tires were available. He pointed out one thing I was not aware of, the softness of the tire tread. It was quite warm, and definitely soft. He stated, that if I kept them, make sure they are frequently rotated because they are prone to cup. The owners manual shows 7500 miles for rotation. It is not tire or size specific. That distance would be near the top end of recommended rotations. I've seen recommendations from 3500 on up. If cupping is a big issue, as it has been with other GY tires put on GM vehicles, it then seems 5000 miles should be the limit, at least for the first and second rotations.
    The softer rubber is usually indicative of great dry traction.
    Beware that by time half the tread is worn away, any tire, the performance of it can change very significantly. Especially for roads where the condition is other than dry.
  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,267
    net rider,
    I have no problems with the Eagle RS-A on my CXS. The slightly louder road noise is due primarily to the 19" tire size with the touring package and not an inherent demerit with the tire itself. This weekend I drove my brother's 2008 BMW 528i AWD with the RSA 17" tires and it was very quiet on all road surfaces. Handling was competent and superb but not much different from what described by bobinor in his CXS. So I would have to conclude the RSA tire quality is not a problem. Perhaps you should try different tire pressure settings to see if you get a different result. My cold psi setting is 34 and that work's for me.
    By the way, I am not jealous but I cannot understand why a person would spend so much on a BMW. The 528’s interior is quite ordinary. Hard plastics everywhere and the interior feels cramped. Compared to the CXS the BMW 5 series is not a true luxury car and as such does not justify its lofty price tag. But if you're looking for snob appeal and cachet among the beautiful people then BMW does command attention.
  • djaadjaa Posts: 8
    My salesman had me roll down the drivers window some, and feel the edge of the window glass. You can feel a grove in it. He said something about it having a lamination in it for sound purposes. Take it for what its worth!!! :) I think in the older years 50's? the "safety glass" had a lamination between the glass to hold it together when broken. For years now the safety glass has a tensill strength that causes the glass to crumble so there isn't large shards of glass to cut or stab. Thats how it has always been explained to me.?
  • djaadjaa Posts: 8
    Being a mechanic, I have always heard and noticed there is a "break in" period for cars to get better gas mileage. I am hoping for the same with my LeCrosse. I haven't even followed it yet knowing this is the case.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Perhaps you should look at the tirerack rating of this tire. Even the Eagle GT scores much better than this tire. These are owner reviews of all sizes a particular tire is available in weighted toward the actual owned sizes.
    That would seem to blow your theory that it is the size that causes the noise, especially since the tire store told me our size is uncommon.
    Maybe the BMW is just a quieter ride?
    On my recent trip, I watched the tail lights of a BMW, maybe 725 - numbers were hard to read, as it appeared to travel very smoothly. I was rolling side to side with a slight sway. And I believe I was running sport mode.
    As to the use rating, I admit that the same tire can act very differently on a different vehicle/suspension, But think that it would have little impact as to the difference between dry road and wet or snowy. That is if this tire moved to a 8 on dry for this vehicle it would still be poor on wet, snowy, & for ride/comfort.
    I read some reviews and one claims this tire is to be discontinued.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Interesting points for thought.
    The windshields have been laminated for many years so that if something hits it the whole thing does not turn into pieces flying at you (not shards). And as I recall they were labeled 'safety glass'.
    Starting to get confusing.
    The rear windows are not supposed to be acoustic if I remember correctly. Maybe a difference at the edge can be felt between front and rear.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My wife told me it settled into better when she got 5000 miles on her's.
    I watching just to see if it improves and do hope so. If I'm lucky enough to gain 1MPG on highway, then I should see nearly the same increase for local driving which as a percentage of MPG would be quite significant. The first tank, mostly local was 20.5 which would indicate straight city of 17 or less. A town car will get 16 under such conditions.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    edited November 2010
    Earlier I expressed a desire for these to be on vehicle and still find them desirable. I did however find a little trick that helps some for lighting area close to the vehicle, closer than low beams. Turn on fog lamps. You should check local regs because some areas may prohibit such use.
    I will be keeping my eyes open for a pair of tiny mirrors that might be mounted to reflect part of the fog light beam or maybe a cornering lamp kit.
    I would consider making the fog lamps come on with directional but have no idea how to do it at this point.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Has anyone changed over to synthetic oil?
    Did it affect MPG?
    I'm considering the change when vehicle is broken in just to gain the durability and inherant protection of synthetics.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My heart sank when I found this. Light caught it just right and I noticed a body line I had not seen before. Not a body line, but deep scratch/crease in driver rear quarter panel. Absolutely no damage to paint. It is close to 10" long. It appears this has to have been present before factory paint. I believe that at the body assembly line someone mishandled the quarter panel and dragged it across something gouging and dimpling it. There is just no way that the paint would not have been damaged if done after painting.
    I went to dealer that day, sales. They were extremely busy that day and shuffled me off to service. The manager insisted it had to be done after I got car. *!x&x? He said he'd have to talk to top sales manager. I swung by there Tuesday and he was out, so I talked to managers. First I invited them to find it. Neither could without me pointing it out. They agreed to fix, but now my new car will have non-factory paint. GM, WAKE UP!
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