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Mazda MPV: Error Codes/TSBs/Recalls

curriercurrier Posts: 2
We have a 2000 Mazda MPV with the check engine light continuously on. It first showed error codes 304 and 306. Our regular general mechanic first replaced the manifold, and then the coils, with no luck.

We then brought it to a dealership, and they told us that they believe that a valve is not sitting correctly on the 4th cylindar. (We now have only error code 304). Specifically, they say that the cylindar has low compression, and the exhaust valve is slightly burned out to cause a misfire. They need to remove a cylindar head and do a valve job. The cost will be approximately $3200. We have already paid $700 with no luck in fixing this error code. Any ideas?


  • It's been over a year since I checked in, had the 2nd/3rd hard shift problem back in Oct '04, they fixed that but I now have had a 1st/2nd hard shift problem ever since. Dealer told me it was normal, bull****. I lived with it for a while and then I finally yelled enough about it and told our service manager that I have to drive this van for at least three more years until it's paid off per my husband so I can get my horse barn built! So, I want it FIXED!!! Anyone else have the 1st/2nd gear shift shock? It happens in bumper to bumper traffic a LOT when you accelerate from a stop, but before it shifts into 2nd you have to let up on the gas, then depress the gas again and then it hesitates and slams into 2nd. It drives me nuts! I guess since I'm in rush hour a lot I feel it a lot. Anywho, he said they may just replace our whole transmission this time. We'll see.

    The choking/shuddering started at 37k miles, these cars have a built in timer to have problems right after the standard warranty is up I swear! Luckily we got a free 100k bumper-to-bumper warranty because of our original shift-shock problem, so it's covered. It's in the shop today, but our service advisor told me he already knew what it was, the ignition coil. I saw others posting about it so I though I'd chime in.

    I'll post when I get my van back and let everyone know the ultimate resolution to both problems!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Now that you know what the problem is, i would go back to the other mechanic and aks his advice and get a quote from him. You can buy and install a re-built engine for $3200. Otherwise, how does the MPV drive?
  • The van actually drives great. The dealership tells us that it eventually will start to have problems, and we risk damaging it even more if we do not address the check engine light. My concern is that the major repair which the dealership is proposing may not even be the problem. It would be a nightmare to pay the $3,200 and find that the check engine light probem does not go away. We did go back to the first mechanic, but he just lost his main worker, and is a bit distracted to handle this right now.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Do a Google search using "Mazda P0304" and see what comes up. I did this yesterday for my Intrigue that has a P0101 code. There were a bunch of websites that discussed this particular code and the steps to take. I bet you will find something similar for your situation. Not unless you want to spend $3200.

    Good luck.
  • kinkokinko Posts: 48
    I have a 04 (with 21k miles) and the gear change had always been very choppy/jerky. I had noticed the shifting became rough (sometimes the shock)going from 1st to 2nd, shortly after the TCM flash had been done on March 04. I had not noticed any 2nd to 3rd shift shock in the past year.
    I got the the 1st/2nd gear shift shock on and off in the past 20 months. Mine sounds exactly like what you described. Sometimes, I thouhgt that I might have confused the transmission control. During a stop/slow and go situation when I accelerate, sometimes I get the shock if I have to let my foot off the gas(due to the traffic) before it shifts to the 2nd(around 3000 rpm). I seems like the transmission is programmed to expect me to depress the gas hard during acceleration everytime.
    A few month ago, I unplugged the battery terminal for a reset and relearning of driving pattern. But now the jerky shifting is back during the slow and go. It shifts rougher if the O/D is off(o/d light on).
    Interestingly, I drove a used 05 last July at the dealer and that tranny shifted smoothly and nicely. So I guess it is not normal to all MPVs
  • lazyfoxlazyfox Posts: 90
    kinko go to your dealer and request TCM reflash if it wasn't performed yet, it should, but maby it wasn't

    US BULLETIN No: 05-003/04 DATE: 05/2004
    APPLIES TO: 2003-2004 MPV AFFECTED VINs: JM3 LW28** 30 367822 - JM3 LW28** 40 518096
    SUBJECT: Mazda Special Program (MSP03) - Shift Shock - Transmission Control Module (TCM) Reflash


    2003 - 2004 MPV vehicles built from April 1, 2003 through January 26, 2004
    2003 VIN Range: JM3LW28**30367822 - 378984
    2004 VIN Range: JM3LW28**40500013 - 518096


    The vehicle's automatic transaxle (ATX) may exhibit shift shock while the engine warms from cold to normal operating temperature. The symptom is intermittent, it does not occur all the time. The shift shock usually occurs during 1-2 or 2-3 upshifts, or 3-2 part throttle downshifts.

    In most cases, the cause of the shift shock is from the TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE (TCM) software calibration. A new software calibration is available on ESI to correct the shifting concerns.



    Inspect and repair all current dealer inventory according to the procedures contained in this service bulletin.


    When a retail vehicle is brought into the dealer for any type of repair or scheduled maintenance, inspect and repair the vehicle according to the procedures contained in this service bulletin.
  • We have the same car and similar problems, several error codes. Have replaced the exhaust manifold 2 yrs. ago, now in the last year have done a bunch of repairs for a nagging check engine light epedemic. To fix "lurching" during driving especially in the 40 - 45 mph range and some backfiring and sluggish starts from a stop - new Spark plugs, ignition coil, some other stuff and intake manifold, the latter got rid of the lurcing finally. But now the newest is a high pitched humming that gets higher the faster I drive. The tachometer is doing wierd things. I fear it is the transmission. We have spent about $1,000 in the last year to fix all ths stuff and at 105k miles I am not up for a new xmission. I am so disappointed with this car. Alternatives?
  • kinkokinko Posts: 48
    I doubt that I could duplicate the symptom in realtime. Because it is intermittent, it does not occur all the time. The dealer told me time after time that they won't do anything 'til they see it happens.
  • lazyfoxlazyfox Posts: 90

    When a retail vehicle is brought into the dealer for any type of repair or scheduled maintenance, inspect and repair the vehicle according to the procedures contained in this service bulletin."

    If your MPV was not reflashed with the latest software, they have to do it if your VIN is within the range of the TSB, read above. If they would not do it, contact Mazda and complain about the dealer or find another dealer who will do it.
  • We have an 04 LX with 28,000 miles. We had the shift shock issue back in 04. I described it as if someone was rear ending the car when it changed gears. The TCM flash fixed this issue. In Jan Feb 06 we had two more issues. When put in park the engine would rev to 2000 rpm and stay there. If you tried to put the car in drive it would stall and would not restart unless you waited an hour or so. Took to the dealership they found a faulty temperature sensor. It was telling the computer the engine was freezing. The second issue was a shutter while stopped and the engine was in drive. It also occurred at highway speed when coasting and then applying the gas. It felt like the transmission could not decide what gear to be in. Took it to the dealer ship, they tested, the mechanic took it home, found a bad ignition coil part code AJ51-18-100A Ignition Coil. Replaced and the car runs great again. No hesitation or transmission issues now.
  • 105K and you're disappointed??!!! I've put 4 transmissions in two windstars since 1996! Together with the transmission each vehicle came with, that's 6 transmissions in 9 years. They go out at 40K miles, then the replacement at 20K after that! 105K without a new transmission sounds like a miracle vehicle!! Whatever your alternative, stay away from ford.
  • Hi everyone!

    I have an '03 MPV, and I was wondering if anyone knows the location of the MAP sensor. I googled it and searched all over, but couldn't find anywhere that could give an accurate and definite location. If anyone knows and could post it, and possibly also post if and when they changed it, difficulty, cost, etc..., that would be great. I have 3 codes in the computer right now, but I suspect that all 3 are related to the MAP sensor.

  • criledocriledo Posts: 27
    I suspect you didn't find it because you are look for the wrong sensor. If I am right, you are looking for the MAF sensor, as in Mass Air Flow sensor. That on is located on the duct between the air filter and the intake manifold, right on top, you can't miss it. (Let em know if you don't find it and I'll send you a picture). The sensor is expensive; try cleaning it before replacing it. For that purpose use a spray that is an electrical cleaner and make sure it does not attack plastic. Good luck and let me know!
  • Aren't these 2 sensors different? I know there is a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, but is that the same thing as a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor? I know the '03 MPV has a MAP sensor on it, b/c I've already priced the part at AutoZone, and it is expensive, over $300 just for the part! Also, the code that came up when they checked it specifically referenced the MAP sensor, but didn't say anything about the MAF sensor? What do you think? If you can send a picture (of both sensor locations, if you have them, or just the one if that's all you have), that would be most helpful. I'm an accountant, not a mechanic, so things like this are tricky for me! :)
  • criledocriledo Posts: 27
    In that case I am the one that's mistaken, sorry, I thought you would have been looking for the MAF, not the MAP. I don't know the about the MAP, sorry! Why don't you go to the dealership, have them show you the part in the pats department and then ask them where it goes, they should point it out to you under the hood.....
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I think it will be easier if you listed the codes.
  • hokiefan33hokiefan33 Posts: 3
    You're right, that might help, here they are:

    1) P0174 - "PCM determined fuel system for Bank 2 was too lean." Possible O2 sensor? I believe there are 4 of them, right and left before and after the converter.

    2) P0401 - "PCM determined there is insufficient flow in the exhaust gas recirculation system." EGR valve?

    3) P0106 - "PCM determined that input from the manifold absolute pressor sensor or the barometric pressure sensor has changed too much, without a corresponding change in engine operating conditions." Possible MAP sensor, and that this may actually be the cause of the other 2 codes, as well (i.e. fixing this one might fix all 3)? This has the highest cost for the part, at approx. $339.'

    Any help, and location description/picture of MAP sensor location, would be GREATLY appreciated!
  • rogerrabbitrogerrabbit Posts: 11
    The MAS (Mass Air Sensor) is immediately after the air clear - essentially a round tube with a wire sensor in the tube - must be more than that because it costs several hundred dollars (which is why trying to clean it before replacing makes some sense).

    Mine was replaced and drivability issues were solved - when the sensor is not working correctly, the bad readings send all sort of crazy fuel readings to the computer and cause the erratic performance. Not the only possible cause, but it was in my case (although I changed the spark plugs shortly thereafter).
  • husker92husker92 Posts: 44
    States EVAP emmission Control System Leak (small).

    On the web it says it could be the gas cap not on completely. It says to tighten it, reset the codes and see if it comes back (CEL). Can I reset the codes or does the dealer need to do that?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks - Jay
  • rickand2rickand2 Posts: 2
    I had check engine light coming on. At first I was told by 2 garages to twist the gas cap tighter after refueling.
    Turns out it was a valve a low compression in one cylinder. Very depressing after just 60,000 miles. I did maintain the car. It was not driven as a hot rod either. I would think twice before buying this year. I do not think Ford and Mazda
    used good sense before introducing this car.
This discussion has been closed.