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VW Jetta Basic Maintenance Questions (Oil changes, fluids, etc.)

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  • yo kevin,
    i have a 2007 jetta , 2.5 gasoline , and wanted to change my oil and filter and stopped cause i could not figure out the filter.
    i purchased the filter and its just a paper element w/ no metal housing,so it has to go inside the black plastic housing ,hidden above the black plastic splash guard.i think there are 6 star head screws to remove this.but...........
    i dont want to tinker w/ this filter housing til i get some more info.
    i think it just screws off to get at the filter,but i want to be sure.
    did u find out how yet and would u let me know
    gene
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    It took me 37 seconds to search the internet and locate this step-by-step procedure with photos.


    Perhaps the most important part is to make certain that the O-ring is installed properly.

    I am glad to see that VW has started using these high-quality filters on the gasoline engines. (why purcahse a tin can with puny filter inside when all you really need is the FILTER itslef!)
  • Hello All,

    I was wondering when is the mileage interval on changing the timing belt on a 2002 VW Jetta GLS? Also, I took it in to get it checked out and they said I need to change the water pump at the same time as the timing belt. Is this true? To make matter worse, my oil light seems to always come on at almost exactly 3400 miles. Does anyone have shed some light on this problem.

    Thanks
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    VW schedule says to "check" timing belt every 40,000 miles for the 2.0 engine (if that is what you have):

    http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/servicecenter/maintenance/en/us/

    Gates says to replace at 60,000:

    http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=428-1466_web.pdf&folder=- brochure

    The independent VW specialist my kid uses also says 60,000. I think the dealer may have said 90,000.

    Replacing water pump is kind of a "might as well" thing. If you do it at the same time there is no extra labor, if you don't and it fails later you will have to pay for the labor all over again. BTW, it seems that the cost of timing belt replacement can vary greatly, depending on where you go.
  • i just had my sons 2002 gls jetta , timing belt changed and also the water pump.
    reason being for the water pump is ,sooner or later you'll have to have it done and it saves you on labor costs to do both at the same time.
    i had this done in june 2007 at a cost of $535.00. you should spend the extra dollars to do both.
    as for the oil light,i dont know what could be the problem.
    suggestion? i always use an oil filter w/ a check valve inside.this keeps the oil from returning to the pan.these are purchased at vw or napa store.

    this was done by jack metzger vw in bloomsburg,PA
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    You can also look at it this way.... If you do NOT change the waterpump while the engine is torn apart and they are in there.... The waterpump will NOT last another 60K miles.

    Thus, you will be paying the bulk of the labor all over again to tear it apart.... AND the timingbelt may need to be changed when the waterpump fails because it will most likely be damaged.

    Incase you were not aware, if the timingBelt breaks or is damaged by a busted waterpump or pullie - the engine may be seriously damaged when a piston crashes into a valve.

    It is best to change the timingBelt, waterpump, tensionors and all pullies while it is torn apart. There are "kits" available which contain all necessarry parts to do the entire job properly.

    Almost all modern engines with timingbelts are like this. (It is not a VW-only situation)
  • Hey,

    i drive a 1999.5 Jetta 2.0L i was thinking bout switching out my old spark plugs and wires for a new set, i've never done them before (bought the car used a few months back and noticed my MPG has dropped so thought why not) i've been told that my model engine works best with NGK spark plugs, the ones that have the 3 grounds/Diodes on it (not sure what they are called) and i'm not too sure how old the wires are but they are OEM

    now i was wondering, should i just go to VW and pick up the NGK plugs and OEM wires OR should i opt for something a lil bit better, any suggestions?, a friend of mine told me to get NGK iridium tip plugs and NGK wires that match those plugs (they have wires made for those plugs)

    any thoughts are appreciated

    thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    The NGK iridium tip plugs are OUTRAGESOULY priced and will not give you any measaurable gain. (The are good on highly modified engines where the spark can be "blown out" by the combustion pressures.... certainly NOT a volkswagen engine!)

    You cannot go wrong with using OEM plugwires and the recommended sparkplugs. (They got it this far!) Volkswagen uses some of the best quality parts in the automobile buisness. (Bosch, NGK, Mann, Garrett)

    Some popular places to shop for VW parts online are;.
    http://www.worldimpex.com/
    http://www.1stvwparts.com/
    http://www.germanautoparts.com/

    NOTE: Make certain you get the 3-letter engine-code from your engine.... VW was changing engines between 1999 -2001 and there were at least 3 different 2.0L engines during that timeframe. (AEG, AZG, AVH, BBW, BDC, BEV... others?)
  • After a certain VIN, the fuel filter does not have water separator, indicating confidence in commercial fuel supply. Filter is a paper cartridge type, kit with gaskets. Have 1 qt new fuel ready before starting filter change. First place rags under & around can to minimize spill. Four nipples, remove clips & discard (replace with screw-drive hose clamps). Press two spring clips at back of can toward rear of car and slide can up & out. Undo 5 screws to remove top. Empty fuel into glass jar (1 qt). Use two flat-blade screwdrivers to lever out the cartridge by its neck flange (~1-1/2"dia), it will slide up and away from the core (core has 5-circle gasket at top). Verify can is empty and slide new cartridge onto core. Replace all gaskets supplied with kit. Prime filter: fill can with new fuel to about 3/8" below rim, any more will just overflow in next step. Replace can top and 5 screws - note the spring at bottom of core will resist this. Re-install can to car and connect hoses. Loosen air bleed screw at top of can maybe two turns. Clear engine except for rags (keep away from belts), start car, tighten air-bleed ( it will leak if you don't), run engine a few minutes to assure continuity of fuel. Make sure all screws are tight to prevent leakage. This worked well for me, took ~1 hr the first time. Local fuel is good - no water in the jar. Change filter at 20,000 mi (30,000 km) max or engine performance may suffer.
  • I am considering purchasing a 2008 Jetta. I've been reading recommendations in this forum to have the oil changed at a VW dealer, not at the quicky lube. What does your dealer charge for an oil change?

    Thanks!
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Changing oil at the dealer is to document that it was done,etc.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I've paid about $50. Our first change was free, from a different dealer, invoice had price of about $65.
  • i just changed the oil and filter on my 2007 wolfsburg at 4900 miles.
    i called the vw dealer in my area(n.e. PA) and they quoted me a price of around $80.
    VW requires castrol 5w40 fully synthetic.
    i also save my purchase slips to verify my oil and filter change.
    i can do this change for $60
  • Thanks for sharing this information, folks.

    I just signed a contract on an '08 Jetta this morning. The dealer tells me $125 for an oil change using synthetic oil. I believe they also wash the car, rotate tires and perform some safety checks too. Still seems awfully expensive to me.

    He also said they are recommending a change every 10,000 miles rather than 3,000 or 5,000.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Yes, because it requires full synthetic it only needs to be changed every 10,000 miles or 12 months. They have some sort of special break-in oil initially (at least I think that is the reason for the shorter interval for initial change) and this is to be changed at 5000 miles.

    Then, I think just to get on a 10,000 mi interval, the second change is also called for after 5000 additional miles (at 10,000). After that is is 10,000 miles (or 12 mo.).

    If you are concerned about the service costs, ask them for the "ala-cart" price to just do what the VW schedule requires each time, rather than saying, for example "do 20,000 mi service). Also if you have other dealers in your area you can check and see if they have better pricing.
  • We bought a Wolfsburg this summer and are ready for the 10k change now...how difficult was the oil filter to change? I haven't been under the car yet to see where it is, so I'm hoping for good access :D
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    You do not say which engine you have but most VWs can be fully oil-changed from under the hood without getting underneath.

    I can change oil and filter on my 1.9L TDI in about 20 minutes without spilling a drop. (Oil Filter is a drop-in cartradge!)

    My daughters 2.0L Golf takes about 30 minutes under the hood.

    My other daugherts 2.0L NewBeetle takes about 40 minutes because EVERYTHING is so tight under the hood so I need to push a bunch of hoses out of the way to get to the oil-filter.
  • Hey guys,

    i've got a 1999 Jetta, 2.0L, i do alot of city driving,which i am told is very hard on a car, would it be beneficial for me to switch my oil to synthetic? people have been telling me that if i do that i am forever stuck with synthetic,and if i switch back to conventional, i will destroy the engine *i wouldnt mind having to put syn in it all the time, if its a benefit* also been told that my car will leak like no tomorrow becaue they flow differently, just wondering if it is worth the extra 30+ bucks to have it done each oil change and if any of those risks are common factors when switching or if they happen in rare cases.

    also, how long can i go between changes on synthetic compared to the regular dino stuff :-P

    any thoughts are appreciated
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I think you have been given a lot of misinformation. You can switch and switch back any time you want.

    Is your car leaking oil now? If not then I don't see how the synthetic is going to create any new leakage :confuse: .

    My somewhat arbitrary policy, if there are no warranty issues, is to follow OCI of 5000 miles/6 mo. with conventional or 10,000 mi/12 mo. with synthetic. So since the cost ratio is about 2:1 also, there really is no net cost to going with synthetic.
  • how many quarts of oil does a 2001 jetta 1.8t take.i would like to do a change on it i just bought it used .
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