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Older S-10's
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Comments
Dogg likes the back
I love doggies too. Big Time!
Take a look at my "granddog's" web page.
http://www.members.aol.com/tjoh298765/raj.html
tom
High mileage automatic tranny. Keep the fluid changed, 30K if towing, 75K otherwise. Sooner if operated in severe temps, like San Antonio in stop and go driving. This tranny lasts really well in the trucks as it is designed for the heavier c/k 1500 series.
Check engine light. On pre-96 GM vehicles the onboard diagnostics could be read using a paperclip. If the check engine light came on, a code is held in memory even if the problem resolved itself. Use a paper clip or some other conductive wire and jumper the A and B terminals of the diagnostic port together. This is the connector located on the bottom of the dash near the steering column. Turn the key to the on position but do not start the engine. The SES (service engine soon) light will flash once, pause, twice, and then go out. This is a code 12 and will repeat three times to indicate the computer is in diagnostic mode. After flashing 12 three times there will be a pause then the computer will flash the SES with the stored code(s). Each code is flashed three times. Example: flash/flash/flash (short pause) flash/flash (long pause) is a code 32, EGR circuit failure.
The Haynes service manual has a good section on the diagnostic system.
Y'all have a good weekend
Jim
Jim
As long as the drive shaft was out, did he go ahead and change the U-joints? The parts are very inexpensive, and it would have been a good time to do it. Maybe someone changed them, though, before you got the truck.
If they are like mine, they each have a grease fitting, so be sure whoever lubes your truck gets some grease in them.
I know what you mean about lovin' that little truck! I sure do love mine.
I have put 6300 miles on mine since July 16th, and the odometer is up to 140,8xx miles now.
I don't know of anything it needs right now, but I might go ahead and have the fuel filter changed. It's cheap and there's no use waiting until there is a problem with it. I actually asked the guys at the shop to change it the last time it was in there, but they forgot.
c ya
tom
The reason it shudders is because the oil gets on the pressure plate, then grabs and slips, and grabs and slips, not allowing the clutch to engage smoothly. When you take it apart, you'll be able to tell immediately if it is the rear main seal because there will be burnt oil stains on the pressure plate. I learned this on a FORD, but there's a remote chance it could happen on a Chevy (LOL).
As for the dogs, watch out about Goldens. They will steal your heart! God was in a good mood when He made Golden Retrievers. Goldens and other breeds in that same family are a real blessing to their owners. Mine never met a yellow tennis ball, a kid playing outside or a body of water big enough to swim in that he didn't like.
Now, if we could just figure out a way to slip more sports or old Air Force war stories into this forum, it would be perfect!
Joe
Only thing which doesnt is swimming. He swims for hours upon hours. Hes a very smart dogg he sees us in our swim trunks and he knows its time to go swimming. THis yr he even became accustomed to floating around all day in inflatable rafts (darn dog was in the pool more than me)
I just wish as he gets old he doesnt act so much like a puppy
I don't know how I will ever make it when I have to say goodbye to my Ross Allen. He is the best friend I ever had. I wish he could go everywhere I go and be with me 24 hours a day. He's six and a half years old, and I sure hope he lives a long, long, healthy, happy life.
tom
the rear main seal idea was one someone mentioned to me a while ago...but in 1993 the problem shouldnt be one of those obvious problems that "all s-10's" have. that generalization is reserved for the late 80s s-10s wasnt it?
but never mind, perhaps mine is leaking too. but the mechanic said he drove it and it didnt actually shudder until the clutch had been engaged, leading him to believe the problem is in the tranny. i tend to agree, since i can get down to the same speed and it doesnt do it in second gear, and while the clutch is being let out it doesnt shudder....just when its in first and i accelerate. its better now since they tightened the bolts, but i suppose it will need fixed eventually.
When he finally woke up
<img src=http://imagem.webphotos.iwon.com/1000018130/1000018130_1117200124435PM0.5967524.jpg
He really likes the bed liner he even fell asleep back there today when i was messing around in the garage
Don't worry about going off topic, as far as I am concerned. I started this discussion, so if I don't care, I don't guess anyone else should care.
Let's consider this an "Older S-10/Doggie" discussion.
That's my granddog, Ross Allen Johnson
tom
You didn't mention if it lost power when it shuddered. If it shudders and feels weak, connect a vacuum gauge to any vacuum port off of the intake manifold, and then tape the gauge to the windshield of your truck. Go for a drive, and see if you can make it shudder. If the vacuum goes, from say, 5-10 down to 2 or 3 as soon as it shudders, that is a clogged catalytic converter.
Wish I could drive it...I love a good mystery. Don't mean to be nosey, just don't want it to really foul up and leave you stranded somewhere.
tsjay, you are sooo right. While I'm crazy about my current dogs, I'd give anything to have my tennis ball-chasing Barnaby back before the big "C" got him at age 8.
Joe
see where i am going with this? i love my s-10 but i think it may be time to trade or sell, since its still worth a decent amount. i dont want to pay it off and have a vehicle with 170k on it and no worth. what do you guys think? i would be leasing to buy on the ranger, to save some money initially, and its an XLT with automatic, air, etc, for $9,200.
Third posting: Looking to repair, replace or scavange a replacement carb. for an '85 S-10.
Pls. advise on what other model years have the same carb. system. Or, what model years are applicable before Chev. changed design.
I am no mechanic, and I have only owned an S-10 for a few months. Mine is an '89 with the 2.8 and a five speed.
I sure hope someone can help you.
I can at least put you onto "gm.com," where they have a technical assistance thing. I'll bet they could help you. Might be worth trying???
Hey, here's a better idea... there's a place called s-series.org that has a bulletin board. That place is a WORLD of info on S10's! I don't know why I didn't think of that first. I see all kinds of posts there with people asking specific technical questions, and there's always someone with an answer. I guarantee you'll get your answer there. Here's a link. Just click on the bulletin board button.
http://www.s-series.org
tom
Come in insulting people? Not a good way to start things out
I think most of the people here own S-10s that are older than 85.
Might wanna call an autozone or something im sure they can help
Seriously, if you think it's a good deal, go for it, but don't desert us. We even let Ford owners post here, if they promise to be good.
tom
dog-lovin' Tom
i found a 2000 XLT, amazon green with 2.5 liter four cylinder and auto and air and cd, etc. we tacked on 40 a month for extended total service...its completely covered for 61,000 miles. the truck was stickered at 10,900 but was worth 12 thousand. so i got a good deal on it and i am very happy with it. a friend of mine and i detailed it (he used to detail for a living). it looks brand new, even under the hood (complements of Armor-All. anyone want it? i want to get $3,100 out of it. And don't worry, I won't leave you guys
I sure ain't gonna part with mine, as long as it is as reliable as it has been so far. I am definitely shooting for 200K on mine and probably even more.
Hope you enjoy that new one and have good luck selling your S10.
Glad to hear you'll be sticking around in here.
tom
I got my truck for $2450 with tax,license, and all. Mine was a rebuild, so I guess that made it cheaper. Yours is a '93 with 112K miles, and mine is an '89 and had 134,502 when I bought it.
Maybe that will help you decide what to ask for it. I don't know all the options you have on yours or what condition to rate it as, but I went through the Edmunds appraisal thing, and it showed about $3400 for delear retail and something like $2600 for private party.
According to that, I would say if you can get $3000, you ought to take it.
Best way to sell it is to get it detailed like you were talking and set it out somewhere where lots of people will see it. (Might help to put a "for sale" sign on it too.)
I think an old truck like that will sell mainly on how good it looks, and if someone really likes it, you won't have to worry too much about "book value."
Good luck
tom
P.S. For your sake, I hope I'm wrong, but I'll bet the Ranger won't get any better gas mileage than you were getting with the S-10, especially since the Ranger is an automatic. Let us know about that, OK?
1. Have your carb rebuilt at a carb shop, not a general repair shop. A carb shop can flow-test it on their bench before he gets it back.
2. Buy a rebuilt carb from a reputable supplier and KEEP THE OLD ONE!! Carbs are no longer being built, so getting a rebuilt is about your only option. Keeping the old one provides a source for those little springs and clips that often break or disappear.
Joe
i filled it, thus equaling the amount of gas the dealer ship put in it. the mileage was way lower than i expected...but i hadnt gone through a whole tank....just counted the amount it put back in and divided by the miles i drove...does a vehicle need to be put through a whole tank and then averaged?
Run out the tank of gas and then fill up again. Figure the miles you have driven by subtracting the odometer reading from the last fill-up from the odometer reading for the current fill-up. Or, if you have the trip odometer, simply read the mileage from there, and re-set it to zero again.
Divide the number of miles you have driven by the number of gallons that it took to fill up the tank, and this will be your average miles per gallon. Repeat this process over several fill-ups to get the most accurate idea of your gas mileage, because it will vary some from tank to tank.
Lowering tire pressure will actually DECREASE gas mileage, but if they are over-inflated, the ride will be rough and they will wear out in the middle of the tread, so you need to run the recommended pressure in them. Just be sure to check the pressure regularly and don't let them run lower on pressure than they should.
Jack rabbit starts, idling, riding with one foot on the brake, and that sort of thing will hurt your gas mileage. Short trips are killers for gas mileage, so try to combine your errands into one trip whenever you can.
Some people drive with the tail gate down to improve mileage on pick-ups, but that would be more for highway driving, and it really isn't a good thing to do, cause the fenders need that support to keep from "flopping."
tom
any aftermarket stuff to help with mileage? i intend to put a K&N filtercharger in it, as i did with my s-10...strange, isnt it...tha four cylinder only gets a couple mpg's more than the s-10. the ranger was about 23 or 24 when i checked it but it wasnt accurate, since i didnt do the whole tank thing. the s-10 could damn near go 400 miles on a fill up...got like 23 miles per gallon between highway and city. i love that truck...i hope someone takes care of it (and gives me 3200 for it) haha...
Using a full synthetic oil like Mobil 1 (my favorite) could possibly give you maybe 5% more miles per gallon compared to conventional, non-synthetic oil.
Your air filter idea is a proven mileage booster as far as I know, based on things I have read. I have never tried a K&N myself.
I think the main things that will determine your mileage will be driving conditions and driving habits.
tom
tom
thanks.
I could calculate the rear end ratio if you could give me some other info. I would need to know the RPMs (if you have a tach) at a given speed (60 MPH is easy to work with, but any speed would do), which gear you are in at that speed, the transmission gear ratio for the gear you are in (owners manuals sometimes give the gear ratios), and the exact tire diameter (not just the nominal diameter, but the actual measure tire diameter). With this info, the approximate rear end ratio can be calculated.
tom
any thoughts on liners and covers? thanks!
no strange noises since and no problems. i am sure someone, somewhere else, has done this before...any advice? i am under warranty...should i take it into the service department on monday and admit what a retard i am?
Matt, you are sure obsessed with gas mileage, and there just isn't all that much that you can do, except go buy one of those hydrid gas/electric vehicles or something.
The simple and safe things to do for gas mileage are pretty limited, and even all of them together will only get you about 5% to 10% better MPG.
I have told you that your driving conditons will probably be the single biggest factor. Short trips on cold starts, stop and go in traffic, excessive idling, etc. are all killers on gas mileage. If these conditions cannot be avoided, then you will just have to expect lower gas mileage.
Your driving habits can be a big factor too, but probably not nearly as much as the type of usage, or "driving conditons" that I refer to above. To maximize your mileage, drive smoothly, with normal acceleration from traffic lights, and as much as possible, avoid speeding up and slowing down. In many places, traffic lights are synchronized so that if you drive the speed limit, you should catch all the lights green as you get to the intersections after maybe getting caught by the first one. This way you are avoiding the starting and stopping and the idling while waiting for the light to change.
Use of a full synthetic oil is a proven mileage enhancer. I use Mobil 1 in my Jeep, and would use it in my S-10 if the engine weren't so old that the synthetic might cause leaks. I may give the Mobil 1 a shot anyway, even with the high miles on the engine. I guess if it leaked I could always change back to conventional oil.
That K & N air filter you mentioned might help gas mileage a little, but I have no personal experience with them. I have read many posts where people claim to have gotten better mileage by using them.
Changing the air filter and spark plugs at the proper intervals will help gas mileage, but over-doing it on these items will cost you more than you would save on gas.
Proper tire inflation will also be an important factor in maximizing your gas mileage.
Do a little calculation, and figure your annual fuel cost at say 25 MPG vs. 28 MPG, and you'll be surprised at how little the difference would really amount to. It depends on how many miles you drive per year, of course, and on the price of gas, but for most people the savings would not be significant. If you take this example, and let's say you drive 15,000 miles per year, and also let's figure that the average gas price over the course of the year is $1.25 per gallon, then your annual fuel cost would be $750 for the 25 MPG and would be $670 for the 28 MPG. That's only $80 a year difference!
Hope you didn't damage your tranny, Matt.
tom
I don't know of any way of knowing if you hurt anything or not except to keep driving it and see what happens (hopefully, nothing).
That was very bad advice about putting your truck in neutral while you are driving down the road. Even if you hadn't gotten into reverse, it's just not a good idea.
Hope you will accept my apology.
tom
tom
By the way, I really do enjoy reading the posts here. Great stuff...
Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!!
2. Squeaks in the front end can be dry rubber or A-frame bushings going bad. Spray the bushings down with WD-40. If the squeak goes away and doesn't come back, it's just rubber getting dry in the arid Texas climate. If it goes away and quickly comes back, or doesn't go away at all, you need A-frame bushings now, or very soon. Do NOT use motor oil on the bushings. The oil will destroy the rubber, and then you really will need new A-frame bushings. Before tearing the front end apart, also try spraying all of the bolts that mount the inner fender liner to the fender and frame, the bumper bolts, and the hood hinges. You may have a loose bolt causing the squeak when you hit a bump.
3. NEVER, and I mean NEVER drive any modern automatic in neutral for more than short (a few hundred yards at the most) durations, especially at highway speeds. On many automatics, the pump does not circulate the fluid through the radiator cooler when the transmission is in neutral, which could easily lead to overheating or internal damage due to lack of lubrication, causing early transmission failure. This is why anyone who tows a vehicle on its drive wheels behind an RV either gets a car with a manual transmission, or has to remove the drive shaft.
4. Gas mileage: Change everything to synthetics for maximum mileage, including the transmission fluid and rear end differential. I get about one more MPG after going to synthetic motor oil in my 2000 S-10 with the 4.3 and automatic. I'll go to synthetic transmission fluid and rear end lube, and let you know what happens.
Joe
Joe
Post often! It gets too quiet in here sometimes.
tom