Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

ateixeira

Our '02 Legacy was not in the range, either.

We haven't added the conditioner yet, but I think when I flush and fill I'll go ahead and use it.

-juice

c_hunter

I had a similar issue on my 2000 Outback -- one rear tire had a sidewall cut at 20,000 miles. I got that one tire replaced, but after researching the topic, went back and got three new tires a couple days later. I still have the old tires in my garage, hopefully I can use them for something someday. I wasn't happy about buying four new tires at the time, so I understand your frustration. In my case, it was well above a 0.5" circumference difference.

Unless it's a Subaru shop or a Subaru enthusiast site, people won't know. So-called mechanics and experts tow AWD vehicles incorrectly all the time (ie, with just two wheels on the ground) and it would not surprise me if they were similarly clueless about the tires. Independent of AWD, any good speed shop should know about shaving tires. It's very common amongst the weekend-racer crowd.

The diffs in the AWD system are sensitive to 0.25" of a difference according to Subaru. Now, how much leeway exists is unknown to me at this point, but one of our members here (paisan) ran into this problem on an Isuzu with AWD. He had a whining noise at speed that turned out to be the differential reacting to a slightly different tire (similar situation to you).

Not sure what to recommend at this point; I would be tempted to run with the new tire, but then again, it would suck if it lead to diff problems later on. The best solution still appears to be getting the tire shaved to match.

Craig

ateixeira

The catch there is that they don't carry Falken tires to begin with.

-juice

locke2c

do not use champion no matter what. not even in a lawnmower.

I'd personally use the 6 heat range NGK copper v-power, but you can try the 5 if you want. for best results, change them every 15- 20,000 miles. by now at 30k, there should be a notable difference.

~Colin

locke2c

that's because they're no falken good. :P

~c

ateixeira

They're falken better than the Bridgestones that came off my Miata.

Actually I miss the squirrely tail, just a little. It used to be pretty easy to break the rear loose under throttle, now that only happens at higher rpm.

Of course the Miata makes approximately zero foot-pounds under 4000 rpm.

-juice

brc2004

Does any vehicle with all wheel drive have the special towing requirements, and the need for matching tires? Or only Subarus?

rsholland

Not just Subies. It affects all of them.

Bob

pyrosis

So I took it to a mechanic and asked his opinion, and was told that the sound comes from bad wheel bearings. The estimate was $270 for the parts and $300 for labor. Granted I live in a small town in the middle of nowhere, but does this sound a bit high to anyone else?

once_for_all

for one wheel, that is quite high. How many wheels is he going to do?

I would figure about 1 hour per wheel, and I believe the bearing assemblies are pushing $100 (Liberty Subaru has them on-line at about $76 + $18 for seals).

So if he is doing 2 wheels it is tad high, but expect that they are going to cover overhead, profit, cleanup, etc. You might be able to get it done for a couple hundred less if you get away from the dealer.

John

ateixeira

Buy the parts on-line, then either do it yourself or find a shop willing to do it for an hour of labor, 1.5 tops. Rate is usually $85 per hour.

-juice

avianflu

2/32 of an inch! What happens when all of the tires are on the wear bars and you put on the full size spare? What about having the newer, more tread, larger diameter tire inflated to a lower pressure, in order to compensate? Can't believe that the dirve train is really this sensitive/delicate.

once_for_all

a properly done AWD system such as Subaru's is a precision system, but able to handle "normal" circumstances.

The full size spare, and the donuts, are very temporary on AWD systems.

Next to our farm, there was a guy doing 4wd offroad manuevers with a Jeep CJ. He neglected to disengage 4wd before driving onto the asphalt. The whole thing locked up to the point of not being able to move forward or backwards and there he was, embarassingly stuck in the middle of the road after conquering all off road perils.

The issue for Subarus is the length of time the AWD system is stressed by out of circumference tires. Poor mileage due to binding is the best one can hope for by running that way.

John

user777

i have a nieve question - what is the impact of poor inflation in one or more tires? would this also stress the AWD system?

rob_m

probably only slightly, and over a matter of time.

The bigger issue is handling. Having the pressure on one tire being off, will greatly impact how the car tracks, especially on a straight line. Rob M.

saedave

Not just Subies. It affects all of them.

Bob

Bob, Haldex claims otherwise, that not having that problem is a large advantage of the Haldex system.

Haldex is currently in Ford 500, 2006 VW Passat, Volvo. and certain Audi models that do not have TORSEN. In those cars it provides front wheel drive only most of the time like several other such systems. I chose my VDC in spite of its tire diameter problem, because of countervailing VDC advantages. I'm not sure the general public who are casual about maintaining their cars are not better off with Haldex.

dave

joeb24

I have a 2006 Outback LL Bean and am considering aftermarket window tinting. I talked to Ziebart about their product. They use a metalized film. When I asked if the in-glass antenna would be a problem, I was told that their may be some interference with AM, but not wiith FM reception. Does anyone have experience with problems with aftermarket window tinting?

jcpress

:confuse: First time posting here, and I'm looking for some input if anyone can help. I've got a '99 Forester with about 67K miles on it. A few weeks back I noticed that the car would make a 'chirp' sound when the a/c would kick in. Brought it to the shop and they said it was a loose belt, so they tightened it. Problem solved. Only I started noticing that the chirp was now converted to a solid click sound. Then, a week or so later, the a/c stopped pumping cold air. When I brought it to the shop again, I was told that the compressor and condenser essentially came apart and that I would need to have them both replaced. My mechanic said that the parts from Subaru were around $900 each but that he would shop around and see if he could get a better deal, so I picked up the car. My question is this: does anyone know if the problem could have been caused by anything the guys did in the shop when I brought the car in the first time? Or is this something that just happens? I have had many cars over the years, including the Toyota Camry that I currently own (with 133K miles on it), and I have never in my life had this happen. Thanks for any guidance you can offer. I'm considering getting a second opinion...or just getting rid of the car, as it's been a money pit for me this year.

c_hunter

The Haldex system is quite a bit more primitive in one sense (that it's primary function is to enable easy AWD for FWD platforms) but complex in the way it has to carry out that function. I am not surprised it could tolerate tire mismatches, as it's FWD most of the time. Many "AWD" systems work this way, but they're known to have limitations. I think it amounts to a consumer friendly AWD system that also gives you the fuel economy benefit of FWD most of the time. The downside is that it's far less sophisitcated than the true AWD systems Subaru or Audi uses, which give a benefit 100% of the time, not just when a front wheel slips.

Craig

c_hunter

I would take it to a Subaru dealer and see what they say. I have never heard of an AC system just failing spontaneously like this, with such low mileage on the car. I always suspect the mechanic when a catastrophic failure follows soon after a service....

Craig

kdshapiro

I had an Oldsmobile that had the compressor "fall apart" 6 months after I bought the car, new. It does happen.

cptplt

FWIW on my 1st Subaru, a 92 Legacy I replaced just 2 tires once as they were wearing out and while I don't know what the tread difference was, it was probably at least 2/32 if not more.Must have put maybe 30K miles before getting new tires all round again. Never noticed a problem and car lasted till 90K before I traded it and no problems with the drivetrain I ws ever aware of. I'm pretty sure back in 92 the 1/4 in tire circumference warning was not in the manual as I was shocked to see it on my later Subarus. The cost of tires is minimal compared to what it may cost you if you mess the diff though!

ebony5

How do you like your Yokohama Avids? Which ones did you get? I put 4 Aegis Ls4s on my '96 OBW about 1year/7000 miles ago and other than a somewhat harsh ride, they seem to be O.K-I will see how they do in the snow this winter,it was because of the higher rating in rain and snow that I chose them over the Avids.

lfdal

I purchased the Avid H4S / 94H, 500, AA & A rated. So far I've been very happy with them. Much quieter on the road (at least w/1500 miles on them). Handling seems better - I've noticed the tire squeal I'd get doing a quick (but not really fast) turn has disappeared. I knew I wasn't going fast enough to do that..

p0926

Does anyone have experience with problems with aftermarket window tinting?

Yes plenty of people have done it and no, there's no problem with interference.

-Frank

michael_lee76

I also have the exact problem! The thing is this happens even when my car is stopped! It also comes from lower rear of the car. I saw an answer that the roof rack might be installed incorrectly. However, if the noise comes when the car is not moving, I think the problem might not be the roof rack.

by the way, I also have 2006 L.L. Bean (which is almost identical to 2.5x with premium package) and trailer hitch mounted from the dealer.

bluesubie

Here's the breakdown from the service manager:

13293AA051 – ROCKER COVER GASKET – NEED 4
13270AA110 – ROCKER COVER GASKET – NEED 1
13272AA110 – ROCKER COVER GASKET (LEFT) NEED 1
13271AA051 – ROCKER COVER WASHERS – NEED 12

I can save $30 on these parts on-line. Do I really need them all? It looks like they're giving me numbers for the right and left side (only right side is leaking).

-Dennis

locke2c

what the heck is that first part?

and sorry I'm too lazy to scroll back, but how many miles are on this car? at 47k, my EJ25's rubberized washers were perfectly fine and they had been off a few times. never had a valve cover leak though-- just head gaskets.

~c

ateixeira

I have seen one case of a valve cover leak, not a big deal (nor common) but it can happen.

-juice

locke2c

right-- what I really meant was that I was trying to assess the value/necessity of buying those little washers. they're copper with a rubber donut.

~Colin

c_hunter

I guess you would need new washers if the rubber on the old ones did not rebound after they were removed. The general rule with stuff like this is to replace it if loses its "memory". If the rubber goes back to its uncompressed state (or close) I would probably just re-use the old ones.

Dennis -- have you tried just re-snugging the valve cover down? That may be enough to stave off the leak for a long time. Since the valve cover gasket is not really pressurized, the need for a new one is minimal unless the old one actually cracked or something. I would try re-torquing it evenly all around.

Back when valve adjustments were more common, I would remove and reinstall rubber valve cover gaskets several times before replacing them. The older cork-rubber gaskets were less resilient and were usually replaced every time.

Craig

ateixeira

Colin shared the torque spec dance once, it was something like this:

* torque to 30 lb-ft
* loossen to 15 lb-ft
* torque to 25 lb-ft
* loossen to 18 lb-ft
* do the Hokey Pokey
* turn yourself around
* give up and pay a mechanic to do it



-juice

locke2c

nah that was headgaskets. valve covers are much simpler, standard inside-to-out, but they do take only a very low amount of torque. earlier on this topic I guessed/recalled something like 10-15lb/ft but *do not* quote me on that.. look it up yourself

~Colin

ateixeira

I know, I just wanted to add a little humor to the thread.

-juice

bluesubie

I tried re-torquing where the leak was but the bolt seemed pretty tight.

-Dennis

fibber2

Is that first part number the spark plug tube seals?

Steve

tremere

I've recently become aware of a groaning sound from the rear of my 2003 WRX. The sound appears at 40 mph and continues until I come to a stop. The tires were recently replaced, so it's not the tires. My best guess is the wheel bearings are shot. I need to take it by a dealership to get a final analysis. Currently it has 55K miles on it. Do you think that the powertrain warranty will cover the repairs? I performed a search of this forum and came across some warranty info for wheel bearing repairs for 2003 Subarus, but it specifically excluded the WRX. I thought this problem was fixed for 2003+ Subarus.

ateixeira

That would be pretty rare, I recall issues up until '02 but none since.

Work with the dealer and call 800-SUBARU2 for help if you need it.

We had one go bad on our 626, the noise it made was speed-dependent.

It could also be the rear diff, but the WB is more likely.

-juice

c_hunter

Actually, if the tires were recently replaced and now you hear the sound, it could be the tires. Either they are noisier than the previous ones, or one or more of them are out of balance or have a defect. What kind of tires did you get?

I would not expect the bearings on an 03 WRX to be bad at 55K miles unless they were subjected to an extreme impact load at some point (which probably would also have caused tire damage).

Craig

c_hunter

Make sure the tire inflation is correct all the way around; Juice's comments about the differential reminded me that improper inflation can cause problems/noises as well.

Craig

ateixeira

I recall one suggestion Patti made was to drive in a tight figure 8 to check if the differentials are working OK.

-juice

tremere

Thanks for the responses folks. I recently purchased the vehicle and I did not notice the sound until my delivery drive back home. The previous owner gave me his service receipts. At 36K miles, he noticed the tires were making noise. The tech noted cupping in all tires that was causing the noise and the alignment was off. However, there was no mention of this being fixed. At 39.5K miles, the tech found the rear right and left front tire wearing on the inside edge. At that point Nitto Extreme NT450 tires were ordered to replace the worn tires. (I should have been reading the receipts instead of writing a check.) Back to the timeline. At 40.7K miles the dealership mounted and balanced the new tires (so that doesn't make the current tires recent per my last post). There is also a note that there was a broken stud and a lug nut was needed, but no mention of the supplies being delivered and installed. That's where the tires fiasco ends. The following service receipts are just regular maintenance work.

I followed the advice given to check the tire pressure. The tires were around 30.5-32 psi, except the rear left which was at 19 psi. I filled each tire at 35 psi and took a test drive. The groaning sound still showed up at 40mph. Next I tried the tight figure 8. I don't really know what I looking/listening for, so some guidance please. This is the first AWD car I've owned. I did, however, hear some scratching of the front left tire's inner edge to the wall of the car.

c_hunter

Geez, 19psi is dangerously low! Be sure to keep an eye on that.

Do you have a wagon or sedan? Stock wheels or aftermarket? What size tires?

The front tires should not be rubbing unless they are the wrong size or the wheels had the wrong offset (or both). If the rears were also the wrong size, they may be rubbing too. Wagons have less tire room than sedans, BTW, which is why I asked.

If it was a bad bearing, you'd be able to detect some slop in the wheel if you jacked the car up and grabbed the tire, giving it a good shake. It would wobble a little if bad.

Craig

c_hunter

Can you provide more details on the noise?

Craig

tremere

It is a sedan. The wheels are the stock 16" wheels. The tires are P205/55R-16. I'm not sure if these tires fit. I went to tires.com and the tire selector did not offer Nittos as one of the potential fits. The car hasn't been lowered in case you're wondering.

As for the noise, I don't hear it when I'm driving through neighborhoods. When I get to around 40mph, I hear a whirring sound from the rear of the car. The pitch gets louder from 40mph onward until around 80 mph when road noise drowns out the whirring noise. When slowing down, the whirring sound remains until I bring the car to a complete stop. Only the pitch keeps reducing, but the noise is noticeable below 40mph.

lfdal

Tirerack list's 205/55-16 as the OEM tire size for the 2003 Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan . If they're the original wheels and you're hearing / feeling a tire rub, something is worng.

For yucks I'd get thr rear diff fluid checked.

HTH

Larry

xwesx

I was thinking that a look at the rear diffy would be in order as well.....

pcoe

Hello -
I also have a '05 Forester. I am using a quart of oil between oil changes as well. I don't think I have noticed smells of burning oil but I wondered if you found out anything from your dealer in terms of what was wrong.

Mine is supposed to go to get looked at next week.

michael_lee76

I purchased Forester 2006 L.L. Bean edition and I am having this problem with weird electrical humming noise coming from back of the car.

I brought it to the dealer and they told me it's coming from the fuel pump and it's normal to have that noise. However, the loaner I got from them is also 2006 forester and it does not have that symptom.

is anyone having the same problem?

kevin10

Thanks for the tip, Juice. I didn't know there was a difference in the edges of the crossbars. I checked and mine are facing the right way. They still had the stickers on that point to "Front".