Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

badmange

I opened a case and had been emailing a customer service rep at SOA. She was of zero help and even after speaking with a dealer service writer she mixed up the facts and I'm still at square one with my clutch judder problems. I need this resolved immediately and am losing patience with Subaru. Patti, what is the next step to getting this issue resolved? I have a 1998 2.5 RS purchased new that has a record of clutch problems since the first year it was owned (not to mention other big problems that caused me nearly a year of inconvenience). I had a great dealer in Denver (where I purchased the car) that had replaced the flywheel and clutch components for judder before there ever was a TSB for the problem (which doesn't cover MY98 anyway). The problem is still happening, along with the sinking clutch pedal. The problems used to be seasonal, judder in cold months and sinking pedal when it was hot. I've since moved to Chicago and the problems are still ongoing. Now the judder happens all the time, regardless of the temperature outside. SOA won't cover the repair, I have an extended warranty until 75,000mi (currently at 69K), and this should be a no-brainer for SOA to replace the problematic clutch and flywheel. Please help!

c_hunter

It is normal to have some noise, but it shouldn't jump out at you. It will be loud when you first start the car, but should fade to a light turbine whir/hum with some high frequency noise (similar to what you hear come out of the front of a jet engine). You can hear it from outside the car for sure, but should not hear a lot from inside (it would blend in with other noises). The noise may also vary with fuel level in the tank. Just the fact that you noticed it makes me think something is wrong.

The noise you are hearing may not be from the pump itself, but may be something else vibrating with the pump (called a sympathetic vibration). I guess it wouldn't hurt to poke around the interior and undercarriage in the vicinity of the gas tank to see if anything might be loose or rattling. There are a couple heat shields around the exhaust that are prime sources of noise.

Craig

tremere

Update on the WRX.

I'm scheduled to take it by a Subaru dealership on Wednesday. Meanwhile, I took it by NTB for their opinion. They didn't find anything wrong with the bearings or the rear diff. However, they found the rear left tire had flat spots and the rear right tire is starting to wear, which they say is the cause for the noise. They also found that the alignment is off and is causing the wear on the rear tires.

I haven't had a chance to jack it up yet and test the wheels myself, I'll try that tonight. I'm still going to wait it out for Subaru to take a look before I have any work done.

fibber2

You neglected to give us any details on your oil change intervals. Even a quart every 3k miles is decent, given the action limit for really investigating by most car makers is 1k miles.

Steve

michael_lee76

Thanks, Craig.

I understand it's normal to have some noise, but it's very audible from inside of the car. I don't think it's caused by something rattling though. If so, it must be rattling very fast.

I sent an E-mail to Subaru America about this problem. I'll update you guys when I hear from them.

ateixeira

I'd bite the bullet and get a tougher aftermarket clutch (ACT makes one I think), maybe see if they'll install it for you (pay the labor or just do it for free).

At this point the clutch is 8 years old, SoA probably feels like they've tried what they could.

-juice

jlutley

Hi,

First time posting hopefully doing it right. I have a problem with my 04 Outback LL Bean Edition. The fuse for the air conditioning keeps blowing but only intermittedly. Nothing is plugged in like a cell phone only when air is on and randomly or so it seems. Suburu has a specialist looking into it now as I have brought it in 3 times. The dealer service dept does not know what is wrong. I brought it to them three times and now the specialist is looking
into it.

ateixeira

Well, you've been following the right procedure. Must be an intermittent short-circuit somewhere in the system.

You sure the fuse is the right amperage?

-juice

baboo

I recently purchased a 2006 forester and when picking it up noticed a high pitch sound coming from the rear where the fuel pump is. The service manager looked at it and agreed it was not normal. He called Subaru who told him to replace the fuel pump and that they have had similar problems. I had the fuel pump changed and the sound is no longer there.

Joe

mrk610

I have a 02 outback . I have added the security upgrade you can purchase from the dealer . I tried to program one of my key fobs but i can't get the car to go into program mode. I followed the instructions in the owners manual but no good . I tried it about a hundred times .
Anybody have any suggestions . :mad: :confuse:

Thanks
Mike

fibber2

Mike,

What is it that you are trying to do? I also added the security upgrade to my base model '02 OBW wagon this past Spring. Once it was installed my two fobs worked perfectly without programming. Instead of simply locking and unlocking the doors as it had done before, the upgrade now armed and disarmed the alarm. I didn't have to do a thing to get it to work.

I posted my experience of adding the kit, but will have to search to find it. I also once recently summarized and posted the fob programming instructions and will try and find them. Remember that you can only have 4 units running at a time, if that is what you are attempting.

Steve

michael_lee76

Thanks. Could you please let me know the name of the dealer, city, state, and possibly the phone number? My service manager does not want to deal with this at all. I'm going to have him call your dealer and find out the solution.

Michael.

mrk610

I replaced the battery in one of them and now I have to program it . I can't get my car to go into the program mode . I'm thinking it has something to do with the upgrade. Has anyone here been able to get there car into the program mode .If you have was it easy or a pain in the $$#$$#. Has anyone with the security upgrade also been able to .

Thanks
Mike K

baboo

The dealer where I purchased 06 Forester and had bad fuel pump replaced is: Subaru of Wakefiled, 888 Main Street, Wakefield, MA, 01880, (781) 246-3331. The service manager told me that the tech called subaru directly and they told him to replace fuel pump and wanted it sent back to them to examine. Joe

michael_lee76

Thanks. after showing this message to my service manager, he agreed to replace the fuel pump on mine too.

I'll post an update after the repair is done.

Michael.

tremere

Another Update on the WRX.

Took it to a Subaru dealership on Wednesday (9/28). Previously, I went by NTB and also Conrad's Care Center for their opinions. NTB said wheel bearings are good and Conrad's said wheel bearings are bad. Well, Subaru said wheels bearings are good and the tires just needed to be rotated. They also mentioned that the tires were quite aggressive, and may not be built for noise reduction. So, I think I'm ok.

The dealership went above and beyond when they followed a burning smell that led them to a hairline crack in the engine block. I didn't smell anything burning, so they must have really good noses . Anyway, they have ordered a new engine block and will replace it under warranty.

ateixeira

Cool. Sounds like they are taking care of you.

Just make sure you keep records documenting the bearing noise. Later on if that comes up again you can point to those records.

-juice

myru

I recently purchased an '06 Forester and have noticed a high frequency noise inside since the day we drove it off the lot. It does not seem to be RPM dependent, however as speed increases and so does the ambient noise in the cabin so the noise is less noticeable. I have asked the salesman and the service department if they know what is going on. They said no, at this point I think they think I am imagining this. The frequency is so high I don't think everyone can hear it. Is this the same symptom that is being discussed here? I do not notice any other symptom that I can correlate to this.

Is this a normal symptom on the '06 Foresters? I have not driven any others.

Thanks,

c_hunter

The pinion gear in the AWD system sometimes makes a high pitched whine (similar to the noise a TV tube makes). It happens at high speed (say 55mph +) and you would notice it get louder when you press on the accelerator and drop off when you lift off the accelerator. Do those symptoms mean anything to you?

BTW, that is kind of normal, but it does not affect all cars. It is something you wouldn't notice after a while.

Craig

myru

The noise you describe is noticeable sitting in idle in the driveway so I do not think it is the turbine noise you are referring to. However, the high frequency noise is similar to the noise the old TV's used to make, but again, it is most noticeable sitting still.

Thanks for your reply.

Rick

c_hunter

Rick,

Can you tell where the noise is coming from? If it was from the rear of the car, and you could hear it from outside the vehicle, then it is probably the fuel pump. The pump will briefly run when you turn the key to on (but not start) which may help diagnose it. Once the engine is running, the pump is on continuously.

It could also be the fan for the climate control system -- try turning that off. The only other things I can think of are electrical noise coming through the stereo, or engine noise. I guess you could pop the hood and listen to the running engine to see if it's coming from there.

Craig

hypov

If he has a 4EAT, it does emit a mid - high frequency buzzy sort of whine at standstill.

-Dave

michael_lee76

I purchased 2006 Forester L. L. Bean edition and I had the exact same problem.

It was the fuel pump. Subaru of America knows about it. talk to your service manager and he will replace it for you.

daniell

I have a 2002 Forester S, automatic, 40k miles. Problem started a few weeks ago. I have noticed a few drops of fluid under the car. It's between the front wheels, right in the middle. It's a dark, odorless, very thick fluid. I see these drops especially after the car has been driven on the highway, and more than 20-30 miles. Got a flashlight and looked in the engine compartment. There seems to be some suspension part, a metal rod with an accordeon-like rubber part, connecting the wheel to the center (median) of the vehicle. At the center of the vehicle where the rod is attached, there is some disk, and the fluid seems to be leaking from there. Car drives normally, there is no noise or other symptom (I am not technically inclined, but I would notice strange sounds or behavior). Car was only driven on pavement (Cincinnati roads ). What is it, how much should it cost to fix, and is the car safe to drive?

Daniel

xwesx

The visual inspection you describe would point me to say the front differential, but as you say the fluid is "odorless," I would question that assessment. Differential fluid is quite smelly. Maybe if it was synthetic?

If it was coming from the engine (maybe oil pan gasket?) and blowing back onto the differential, it could also appear to be coming from around that area and would be less smelly. Oil pan gasket is a quick fix, maybe $150? The differential... probably quite a bit more as you have to tear a lot more apart. Would that part be under the 60K drivetrain warranty if a seal failed?

Just guesses here, but I would recommend that you check your fluid levels in both units regularly to see which is dropping! The dipstick for the differential (if anything like older Subies) is located on the passenger side, just in front of the fire wall, and very low beneath a fair number of hoses, wire harnesses, etc. The dipstick handle should be yellow so if you see it, you'll know it.

-Wes-

xwesx

Oh, and yes it is safe to drive.... as long as the fluids do not run too low!

ateixeira

Even synthetic gear oil smells.

But dino gear oil, whoa...

-juice

ozman62

Could it be a leak in the power steering system? Might want to keep an eye on that fluid level as well.
Owen

daniell

Thanks all for your suggestions.

Described the problem to the service rep over the phone. He believes that "the cv axle needs replacement" and quoted me $275. Will take it in Friday.

Daniel

badmange

Actually, the clutch was replaced under warranty back in Feb '00. I understand the clutch is still 5 yrs old, but I drive maybe 8000mi per year in my car. I don't use it very much compared to the average of 10-12K per year, so I don't think I should have to bite the bullet when this problem has been persistent before and after the new clutch/flywheel.

xwesx

Possible, but the symptoms you described do not place the location of lubricant loss at the axle. If it was the CV joints, there would be loss coming out from the boot at either the top or bottom and in either case the loss should be pretty noticable on the outside of the rubber boot. However, I'm sure the mechanic will diagnose the source upon visual inspection, so let us know!

jcpress

I have a '99 Forester with an automatic trasmission. Problem is, when I put the car in Drive, the car vibrates as it would with a rough idle. Only the RPM speed doesn't drop when I put the car in gear. When I put the car in Neutral, the problem goes away. I brought the car in to the shop and the mechanic said they didn't notice the problem - so I'm going to check out a new mechanic. I'm wondering if this might be connected in some way to the fact that my a/c compressor and condensor recently went kaput and need to be replaced - again, according to my mechanic. :confuse:

fibber2

Boy, could be a lot of things.... A well balanced, free running engine will be smooth, but put a load on it and any irregularity can cause it to shake. I'd start with motor and tranny mounts to make sure that everything is held tight and well damped.

Does it change much when you switch on the A/C? While the compressor adds another load, the engine control system should up the idle to compensate. Is the compressor perhaps running all the time (when it should not be...)? Does increasing the throttle very slightly smooth out the idle? What is the idle speed? Ever get a Check Engine light?

There are numerous engine systems that could be at fault, such as the idle air control valve, slight inbalance in compression cylinder to cylinder, etc.

And these are just the initial things to check!

Steve

jcpress

Thanks, Steve. No check engine light has come on, and the shaking does smoothe out when I step on the gas. I haven't tried anything with the A/C, but I don't believe the compressor is running at all. Idle speed is around 700 or so usually. I'll just have to bring it in to the shop and have them look at it.

bodez1

Yes my 06 forester does the same thing starting at about 45 mph. Only
it sounds like whining wind. My wife figured thats why some 06 foresters come with
rear spoilers (I Dont have one).
My problem is when I backup, the brakes lock up when I try to go forward. This is on flat surface not a hill. I pump the brakes and they release.
Only 600 miles on the vehicle. Any ideas?

samiam_68

Is yours a 5-speed or automatic?

c_hunter

That noise you describe is the roof racks. Verify that the crossbars are mounted correctly (rounded fat section forward - sharp edge back, like a wing). Actually, if you do not use the racks often, you can take them off for the least wind noise. No sense dragging them around all the time if you don't use them, and I think the car looks better without them.

Craig

pert

Took my racks of and car does look better. Also cut down on wind noise. I also remove my rear headrests when not in use for more rear visability and looks.

pkp

Looking for some advise on what I think is rather a serious engine problem. I have pushed my 99 Forester to 150km/hr with the RPM close to the red line. After traveling at that speed for about a minute I started hearing a loud engine noise. I stopped the car and the noise was very loud, sounded like one of the pistons was loose in the motor or something broke and was making a horrific noise. The car has less than 180K on it and the maintenance was done according to the book. There is oil and coolant in the engine. One point is that I had a leaking head gasket replaced recently by Subaru dealership. Could the motor be destroyed? Car does not have much power now, but it starts. Overall very disappointed by the car. Any advice?

ateixeira

You might have valvetrain damage, maybe even the rings aren't sealing any more. I'd have it flat-bedded to your mechanic, and not even start it again until you find out exactly what it wrong.

-juice

jcpress

Haven't taken the car in just yet, though I will. Just wondering, though, if anyone thinks replacing a condensor and compressor is something a moderately handy person could handle in the driveway? I have, many moons ago, done things like replacing radiators, and I'm not necessarily afraid of picking up the parts from a junkyard and doing it myself. Is anyone aware of any "how-to" guides on doing stuff like this? Thanks all.

c_hunter

The mechanical work is not too hard, but you probably cannot charge/pressurize the system on your own. I don't know if the equipment/fluid is available to consumers.

Craig

daniell

The driveaxle and CV joints were fine. The problem was the seals where the driveaxle was attached (to the transaxle I assume). Dealer wanted to charge me $275 + tax. Manual says that "seals and gaskets" are covered by the 5 year/60k drivetrain warranty. Called SOA, they called the dealer (Subaru Beechmont, Cincinnati). Dealer fixed it under warranty.

Daniel

fibber2

The short answer is no, you could not complete the job yourself. Physically replacing the condensor & compressor is something that you could do, and probably save a considerable amount of money on sourcing the parts and performing the labor. But the recharging is outside the capability of the average person.

The contents of an AC system must be completely devoid of normal atmosphere, and especially any water vapor - down to a few ppm (parts per million), otherwise severe compressor damage will occur. The procedure usually involves sucking on a fitting with a high vacuum pump until the base pressure is below a set point. This removes air, water, and some of the compressor oil that circulates about. If the system was open for a while, it may also pay to replace the 'receiver-dryer', otherwise it might not be possible to reach the recommended base pressure due to continuous outgassing from accumulated crud.

It is then backfilled with fresh oil (a few ounces) and the correct amount of R-134a (2-3 lbs). Pressure tests are then run to be sure that no ice blockages form at critical spots, such as the expansion valve at the inlet to the evaporator.

Clearly, this is not a procedure for the inexperienced, or those without a considerable investment in the right equipment!

Steve

BTW: where in NY?

xchen21

My 2001 subaru outback CEL start on and off after 40K miles. After a while, it stays on, but occasionally off when car re-starts on hot engine. It sometimes get stall-like when turns or brakes at low speed. Other than this, car runs pretty OK (ave. 25 mile/gal). My friend's 2000 outback got the similar problem, is this a common issue of subaru? Since CEL is complicated, I hope subaru's CEL is related to a particular component . Any ideas?
Thanks!

Xiaoyuan

fibber2

Xiaoyuan,

The light will come and go if the problem is intermittant and not steady state, but the problem will be logged in the system and remain. Step one is to get the DTC (diagnostic trouble code) read out from the OBDII computer. Find a friend who owns a tool, or try a local autoparts store like AutoZone. Many will help you in hope that you will then buy the repair parts from them.

Steve

aviatorvisa

I had an intermittent CEL and occassional hesitation driving uphill with my 2001 OB Ltd (60k miles). Turned out I had a bad knock sensor. I used some $ubaru bucks to get it fixed, runs like new once again.

xwesx

Oh, good. That's where your explanation led me to believe it was. Definitely a warranty item, unless someone overfilled the differential at some point.

I'm glad to hear it worked out for you!

jcpress

>

Thanks again, Steve.

<<BTW: where in NY?>>

Long Island

fibber2

Grew up in Massapequa.......

Steve