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Comments
The noise you are hearing may not be from the pump itself, but may be something else vibrating with the pump (called a sympathetic vibration). I guess it wouldn't hurt to poke around the interior and undercarriage in the vicinity of the gas tank to see if anything might be loose or rattling. There are a couple heat shields around the exhaust that are prime sources of noise.
Craig
I'm scheduled to take it by a Subaru dealership on Wednesday. Meanwhile, I took it by NTB for their opinion. They didn't find anything wrong with the bearings or the rear diff. However, they found the rear left tire had flat spots and the rear right tire is starting to wear, which they say is the cause for the noise. They also found that the alignment is off and is causing the wear on the rear tires.
I haven't had a chance to jack it up yet and test the wheels myself, I'll try that tonight. I'm still going to wait it out for Subaru to take a look before I have any work done.
Steve
I understand it's normal to have some noise, but it's very audible from inside of the car. I don't think it's caused by something rattling though. If so, it must be rattling very fast.
I sent an E-mail to Subaru America about this problem. I'll update you guys when I hear from them.
At this point the clutch is 8 years old, SoA probably feels like they've tried what they could.
-juice
First time posting hopefully doing it right. I have a problem with my 04 Outback LL Bean Edition. The fuse for the air conditioning keeps blowing but only intermittedly. Nothing is plugged in like a cell phone only when air is on and randomly or so it seems. Suburu has a specialist looking into it now as I have brought it in 3 times. The dealer service dept does not know what is wrong. I brought it to them three times and now the specialist is looking
into it.
You sure the fuse is the right amperage?
-juice
Joe
Anybody have any suggestions . :mad: :confuse:
Thanks
Mike
What is it that you are trying to do? I also added the security upgrade to my base model '02 OBW wagon this past Spring. Once it was installed my two fobs worked perfectly without programming. Instead of simply locking and unlocking the doors as it had done before, the upgrade now armed and disarmed the alarm. I didn't have to do a thing to get it to work.
I posted my experience of adding the kit, but will have to search to find it. I also once recently summarized and posted the fob programming instructions and will try and find them. Remember that you can only have 4 units running at a time, if that is what you are attempting.
Steve
Michael.
Thanks
Mike K
I'll post an update after the repair is done.
Michael.
Took it to a Subaru dealership on Wednesday (9/28). Previously, I went by NTB and also Conrad's Care Center for their opinions. NTB said wheel bearings are good and Conrad's said wheel bearings are bad. Well, Subaru said wheels bearings are good and the tires just needed to be rotated. They also mentioned that the tires were quite aggressive, and may not be built for noise reduction. So, I think I'm ok.
The dealership went above and beyond when they followed a burning smell that led them to a hairline crack in the engine block. I didn't smell anything burning, so they must have really good noses . Anyway, they have ordered a new engine block and will replace it under warranty.
Just make sure you keep records documenting the bearing noise. Later on if that comes up again you can point to those records.
-juice
Is this a normal symptom on the '06 Foresters? I have not driven any others.
Thanks,
BTW, that is kind of normal, but it does not affect all cars. It is something you wouldn't notice after a while.
Craig
Thanks for your reply.
Rick
Can you tell where the noise is coming from? If it was from the rear of the car, and you could hear it from outside the vehicle, then it is probably the fuel pump. The pump will briefly run when you turn the key to on (but not start) which may help diagnose it. Once the engine is running, the pump is on continuously.
It could also be the fan for the climate control system -- try turning that off. The only other things I can think of are electrical noise coming through the stereo, or engine noise. I guess you could pop the hood and listen to the running engine to see if it's coming from there.
Craig
-Dave
It was the fuel pump. Subaru of America knows about it. talk to your service manager and he will replace it for you.
Daniel
If it was coming from the engine (maybe oil pan gasket?) and blowing back onto the differential, it could also appear to be coming from around that area and would be less smelly. Oil pan gasket is a quick fix, maybe $150? The differential... probably quite a bit more as you have to tear a lot more apart. Would that part be under the 60K drivetrain warranty if a seal failed?
Just guesses here, but I would recommend that you check your fluid levels in both units regularly to see which is dropping! The dipstick for the differential (if anything like older Subies) is located on the passenger side, just in front of the fire wall, and very low beneath a fair number of hoses, wire harnesses, etc. The dipstick handle should be yellow so if you see it, you'll know it.
-Wes-
But dino gear oil, whoa...
-juice
Owen
Described the problem to the service rep over the phone. He believes that "the cv axle needs replacement" and quoted me $275. Will take it in Friday.
Daniel
Does it change much when you switch on the A/C? While the compressor adds another load, the engine control system should up the idle to compensate. Is the compressor perhaps running all the time (when it should not be...)? Does increasing the throttle very slightly smooth out the idle? What is the idle speed? Ever get a Check Engine light?
There are numerous engine systems that could be at fault, such as the idle air control valve, slight inbalance in compression cylinder to cylinder, etc.
And these are just the initial things to check!
Steve
it sounds like whining wind. My wife figured thats why some 06 foresters come with
rear spoilers (I Dont have one).
My problem is when I backup, the brakes lock up when I try to go forward. This is on flat surface not a hill. I pump the brakes and they release.
Only 600 miles on the vehicle. Any ideas?
Craig
-juice
Craig
Daniel
The contents of an AC system must be completely devoid of normal atmosphere, and especially any water vapor - down to a few ppm (parts per million), otherwise severe compressor damage will occur. The procedure usually involves sucking on a fitting with a high vacuum pump until the base pressure is below a set point. This removes air, water, and some of the compressor oil that circulates about. If the system was open for a while, it may also pay to replace the 'receiver-dryer', otherwise it might not be possible to reach the recommended base pressure due to continuous outgassing from accumulated crud.
It is then backfilled with fresh oil (a few ounces) and the correct amount of R-134a (2-3 lbs). Pressure tests are then run to be sure that no ice blockages form at critical spots, such as the expansion valve at the inlet to the evaporator.
Clearly, this is not a procedure for the inexperienced, or those without a considerable investment in the right equipment!
Steve
BTW: where in NY?
Thanks!
Xiaoyuan
The light will come and go if the problem is intermittant and not steady state, but the problem will be logged in the system and remain. Step one is to get the DTC (diagnostic trouble code) read out from the OBDII computer. Find a friend who owns a tool, or try a local autoparts store like AutoZone. Many will help you in hope that you will then buy the repair parts from them.
Steve
I'm glad to hear it worked out for you!
Thanks again, Steve.
<<BTW: where in NY?>>
Long Island
Steve