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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It's a Subaru trait. That clutch is sending power to all four wheels every time.

  • It runs great after warming up. How is the back seat in Baja? Can it be adjust or is is fixed? I tried the WRX Wagon, and it is not comfortable in the back.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Baja has less rear seat space than the Outback. It's fixed, though the whole thing folds to use the pass-through.

    So it's passable, but not roomy. I was fine, 6' about 220 lbs. No room to spare, though. For kids it is more than enough.

    I'd still consider one with a more powerful engine and a clever cover of some kind.

  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    I will investigate over the holidays - I have 2 weeks off. This is the only thing about this car that I can complain about. I absolutely love driving it. I might even bring it to the dealer for brake flush and have them investigate. They said the work was good for a year even if I pass 36K.

  • texan5texan5 Posts: 23
    This is an interesting tidbit that I've come across on another board. The poster there mentioned that Subaru had decided to use the MAP (Manifold air pressure) sensors in fuel injection systems that it uses over the more widespread MAF (mass air flow) meters. Apparantly MAPs trade fuel efficiency (worse) for reliability (better). Any subaru tech out there that might care to comment?

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    I'd also go with the '97 between the two. I think the '97 was able to lower octane requirements via knock sensor modifications, IIRC.

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Oil level certainly does affect valvetrain noise, especially with the DOHC engine. I usually can tell when I'm getting a little low just from the sound.

    Oil weight also plays a role. I find 10W30 to be quieter, not suprisingly.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Avoid the MAF. I think those were in the last year ('99) 2.5l Phase I engines. Touch the intake and they blow up, and cost $300-400 to replace. Unless you keep it bone-stock, I'd stay away from the '99 engine.

    A local guy put a S-AFC on his RS, and his MAF blew up. Replaced it and sold the S-AFC quick, tough and expensive lesson.

    The '98 is fine because the intake is a little different (not sure exactly how), and the 2000 Phase II got the more reliable MAP.

    If you keep it stock, it's OK, and Subaru covers it under warranty, so don't worry.

  • Hi,

    Anyone having any trouble with WRX starting after spending day outside with temps in single digits. Car did not sound like the battery was low and eventually flooding was an issue.

    Rereading the owner's manual suggests that we did not follow the procedure exactly.



  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I found the OE battery for my Forester, with something like 260 CCAs, was not very powerful in a deep chill. I now have a 535 CCA battery and it lights right up.

  • Hi
    I hope this is the right place to post.
    2 days ago my CEL came on. I'm in new england, and it's been mighty cold. I checked the gas cap (I had been to a full service gas stn), and when I turned it, it wasn't on completely tight, but I did hear the vapor/gas hiss when I opened it, which made me think it wasn't just the gas cap.
    I took it to my mechanic, and they read the code PO303, CYL 3 MISFIRE. But when they checked the engine, they couldn't detect any misfiring. So they reset the light, and I came to get it. Went to start it up, the light came on again, w/ same message.

    My understanding is that this isn't a cat converter or 02sensor like I've read about or it would return a diff. code, and is likely spark plug or wires which I had replaced at 60,000. So they're covered, I'd "just" have to pay for labor.

    Does anyone have any other suggestions or advice?

    Also, I've got the infamous noisy valve-lifters that are annoying and no one's been able to fix, if anyone has any experience w/ that as well.
  • dudedude Posts: 123
    I doubt they'd put 10W30, since in winter months they usually use 5W30, especially here in Colorado
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    10w30 was definitely quieter than 5w30 in my '99 SOHC 2.5L.

    both were synthetics.

  • Jim,

    Not putting anti-sieze on the lug nuts to avoid loosening suggests it may not have been done correctly. It is absolutely key to put anti-sieze on the threads only. Do NOT put it on the acorn nut's taper where it fits into the rim holes. The place where the nuts and rim go together is where the friction to hold the nuts takes place. The threads generate lateral force to pull the rim face tightly to the hub and have very little surface area for generating the holding friction of the nut. It's all about having clean mating surfaces between the nut and wheel - even if it's an alloy with the flat faces or flat washers.

    Properly lubed threads mean greater holding friction with the nuts. What you experienced is the normal slight loosening of wheels after a bit of driving. That's why virtually any guide to putting wheels on instructs you to recheck them.

    Brett - brake fluid will not impact brake pulsing at all. The fluid simply presses the pistons against the pads and has no other movement. It's still a good idea to flush and change, of course!!

  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    In cases where I have seen a manufacture state any instructions at all concerning torque and conditions, the specific wording has been "clean, dry threads". I have never run into any mention of anti-seize, and as you stated Doug, it creates a tremendous risk if improperly applied. I am not sure it is a wise idea unless habitual rusting is a problem.

    I was not at all surprised that the lugs loosened on new alloy wheels, only to the extent that it happened. All metals are subject to 'elastic deformation'. Temperature excursions and further mechanical stress can lead to creep, strain relief, etc. - all forms of permanent, or 'plastic deformation'. The lugs probably didn't turn loose - the mating surface forces changed. The lugs are chromed steel, the wheel a composite alloy of aluminum and whatever (probably some silicon, and other trace stuff). The first application of compression always results in the most change. Some alloys and casting techniques aggrevate the problem.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    alf: that code is simply saying there was a single misfire in that cylinder. Could be from something simple like condensation in the gas. Try a bottle of DryGas, giving it time to cycle throught the fuel system. It abosorbs any water in the fuel lines.

    Or you could try to reset the ECU. But if the mechanic reset the code and it tripped again, that probably won't help.

    For that mirror, try folding the mirror in, then put a small, inconspicuous piece of duct tape in the gap where it folds. That might stop the hissing.

    It's odd but a golf ball is dimpled for a similar reason, it actually travels farther with dimples than a smooth one would. Funny, no? You do not want it too smooth.

  • Turn the key to "ON" position for 2, 3 sec. before starting up. I had the same problem before.
  • lakepoplakepop Posts: 221
    Well I got schooled on this one!....Did a review of a number of sites concerning mounting wheels. I was surprised to see thet ALL of them stated NOT to use any lubricant on the lug nuts/studs.
    So Steve is right on with his comment. All the sites I visited also stated the stud threads should be clean and dry!
    I also noted that a few sites recommended a coating of antiseize on the hub/mounting surface but I digress...
    OK Steve..........good job!
  • I think it's wise to recommend clean dry threads as to do otherwise invites the legal liability of people putting lube where it can loosen. Torque settings for automotive fasteners assume a light coating of oil always present on new fasteners to prevent corrosion during shipping and storage. This is identified in an SAE treatise on the topic somewhere - I'll try to find it.

    I use antisieze on my wheel lugs because I live in a northern climate where we change to studs in the winter each year. The added wear of this twice yearly change (plus anything that would normally require wheel removal) makes pricey stud replacements more common here than other areas. The antisieze is an excellent insurance against the galling and thread wear if used properly.

    Excellent comments on material deformation, Steve. Look closely and you'll see that you have steel inserts in your alloy wheels so that the only contact is steel to steel with the fasteners. And a good reminder for us all to recheck wheel nuts after a change - thanks!

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