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Rust Never Sleeps -- Questions About Rust Problems

24

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Oh I wouldn't take the windshield out if there's a lot of rust around it...it may never fit back in again. I'd just goop it up with a LATEX caulk (much less messy and you can work it into the cracks and wash it up with water before it cures). Now if you want the car to "look nice", that's going to be expensive, and the car isn't worth it.

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  • jjcccjjccc Posts: 2
    Ok, I have some "Siliconized Acrylic Latex Caulk" and I imagine, I can get enough of that in all of the visible cracks enough to stop any leaks. But, with the rust is already seems to be working it's way through the roof and, I'm wondering if there's any way that I can at least freeze the rust where it's at. I read on this other site, about someone who uses a "black asphault fiber roof tar" after wire brushing and cleaning up the area really well. (http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqrust.htm about 1/3 of the way down the page).
    You think it would be worth a shot? The metal already seems thin by the rust spot. When I tap on it with my finger it sounds more tinny there. What do you think?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Well maybe you could pop the windshield trim piece off, then treat the rust with a de-rusting agent like this one:

    http://www.nationalpaintsupply.com/vsite/vcontent/page/custom/0,8510,4682-161382-178597-33- 872-147485-custom-item,00.html

    Then once the rust is chemically made neutral, I suppose you could just bondo over it, sand it and prime it. That might last a year or two. I'm just worried that if you pop the windshield and the frame is weak with rust that you might not get it back in again very easily.

    I'd kind of have to see it, how bad it is first.

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  • Hi,

    Has anyone had good/bad experience with electronic rust proofing? Picking up a new Ford Freestyle later this week and dealership is offering this as part of an after-market protection package along with undercoating, fabric guard, etc ... I'm in the Canadian Prairies where road salt is as ubiquitous as flooding - so rust is a real concern.

    Can't find much about the company (which to some degree is pretty telling) although they've been around for over a decade - Canadian Auto Preservation (CAP) Inc and their product is called Final Coat. www.capfinalcoat.com. Cannot find many consumer reviews/reports on these types of devices - which I view as a negative (if it's so good, why is it a secret when the tech has been around for many years?)

    This company has a few patent applications in various countries and their product is backed/insured by Royal Sun Alliance (a top global insurer) - both of which I count as positives.

    Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Well, how much it is? What's the guarantee? And why is the guarantee any better than the rust out guarantee the manfacturer of the truck gives you?

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  • The List price is $900 CDN. I lost interest at that point, but after checking a bit further, I found that similar electronic device themselves retail for about $200 US. Then you start to layer on the other "standard" protection products (paint sealant, undercoating, fabric protector), plus the insurance component - which is why I'm guessing they quote such an expensive price. Haven't tested the ability to negotiate down.

    I'm still looking for the details on the specifics of the coverage for this package. I'll re-reply if/when I get those. I thought I heard the dealer use the phrase "lifetime" - but not placing any stock in that unless I see it on the warranty certificate.

    They claim the functional difference is that it stops rust from "the inside cavity". The general technical difference is it uses electronics rather than "liquids", so they claim it doesn't suffer from typical concerns of improper application of protectant, voiding factory warranties, having to re-apply/re-treat.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    It may in fact work I don't know...I wondering if it's similar to corrosion protection systems on boats....but really it comes down to what do you get for what you pay? What's the warranty if it doesn't work is what I'd want to know.

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  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 4,074
    I read somewhere (I think it was on Google Groups) that it works on bridges but not on cars. I'd pass. In Canada, I think I'd go with a waxy coating like the Krown stuff (Cosmoline?) for long-term rust protection.
  • C - thanks for pointing me at google. Lots more discussion there and it's helping me make a decision (which is to decline their offer - unless the company shows me some compelling insurance/warranty info).
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,167
    When in doubt, stay out, or take a pass, which is what your previous message seems to imply. I'm just seconding your inclination here.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    sounds like a shuck -- be sure they are using transistorized electronic rust proofing instead of the tube version, the 90 volt batteries the tubes need are getting hard to find and expensive.

    the automaker did electrostatic plating of the body with metallized primer when they made it. you aren't going to be able to stick anything else there anyway. that's how I'm sure this dealer is jiving you. someplace in a lockbox royal sun alliance insurance has an actuarial study that says they aren't going to have to pay out on this. they aren't going to have one that says this works.

    you will do better having the undercarraige washed regularly at the car wash during snow/salt season. and don't park in a heated garage, you're better off leaving the crud frozen until you thaw it and flush it away with clean water at the wash.

    sounds like they are systematically plating your credit card on these ;)
  • What are people's opinions on buying a car from a rust-prone state? i.e. MN, Upper East Coast etc. I'm looking at a 2001 BMW M3 from MN, NY, and NJ but I'm hesitant to buy something from there because I'll have a greater chance for rust down the road. Should I be overly concerned?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    You'd want to lift the car and examine it carefully at least.

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  • i have a 1985 camaro and i've just moved from texas to massachusetts. i've heard stories that the winter weather creates a lot of rust underneath the car. if this is true, is there anyway to prevent it from happening? thanks.
  • Yes it will rust under your car and other parts of car also. It will also cause emergency brake cables to seize and brake lines to rust along with gas lines and gasoline tanks. Most peeps will pull a classic car off the roads in the northeast, the winter with the salt on the roads is brutal.

    Peeps that keep nice cars on the road must wash undercarrage often. I knew a guy who coated the whole underneath of his car with a mixture of oil and grease. It was messy to apply but i got to admit it worked. A product called Fluid Film is something i've had good luck with also. It sort of congeals and sticks to metal and fights rust very well. You have to shop around for it though. Brake shops around here carry it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    There are car washes that also wash under your car....not a bad idea. I don't know that you can "prevent" all rust for all time, but you can at least minimize it. If you can wash under a lot and garage your car, you've got a lot better chance. Usually rust forms at some "collection point" where moisture and salt get trapped, and it's really hard to catch all these places with undercoating.

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  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    the corvettes and miatas go under cover in the garage shortly before the snow flies for most drivers, and the 85 chevys come out. that's the best way to treat a fine car. frequent undercarraige washes, undercoating, and a wax job so thick you can't see the color of the car are the ways the rest of us deal with it. don't leave those parking lot scratches unpainted before winter. which reminds me, I have to get some rust-oleum primer and get after the trailer hitch this weekend.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    rust-oleum isn't very good paint. Get some marine paint and treat yourself to a new experience.

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  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,167
    The '95 model is the last generation Camaro, so don't worry, because it came from the factory with excellent rust protection. Of course, washing, including the underside, about twice a month, once the streets are salted, will further control the rust. However, these aren't rust prone cars. Further, as Shifty mentioned, it would be good to garage it, but if you can't, it will hold up just fine. I guess what I'm saying is take reasonable care of your Camaro and enjoy it instead of worrying about it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Yeah GM finally got smart with the F bodies and started using things like aluminized hot waxes, etc. to plug up all the rust traps on those cars.

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