Rust Never Sleeps -- Questions About Rust Problems
This topic is for posting questions about Ferrous
Oxide, aka Rust, a menace to cars old and new.
Oxide, aka Rust, a menace to cars old and new.
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Best thing to do would be to lift the car at a body shop and do a very careful evaluation of how bad and how extensive the rust actually is. Anything structural that has been attacked would be a serious problem for a car that doesn't have a very high retail value at this time.
You might be better off selling what you have and shopping for a cleaner Alfa. The 70s models can be had at a very reasonable price right now.
Best way to fix it it cut it out. It's the only "sure thing" (famous last words).
Has this rust perforated the metal? Can you stick your fingers in the holes? How bad is it?
Yes, I agree; I've seen bondo jobs that barely last a season before you see bubbles, etc. and even worse damage coming through. It's not a pretty sight! I'll be watching this area more closely and keep the road salt off it for now. Wife is undecided on fix and keep versus getting something new ... Chicago Auto Show is in early Feb so we'll do a wait and see for now ... thanks!
you can do some things to stretch the time between repairs... clean to metal between the fender and liner, and spray it down good with cold galvanizing (i.e. LPS galvanizing spray)... cut out ALL the pinholed metal, put a skim coat of bondo on the back as well... use acid primer on both sides if you are equipped with spraygun and supplied-air facemask... and spraying rustproofing in the fender afterwards.
but any repair that isn't made by getting down to clean shining metal, roughing it up, and then applying new metal by welding or bondo and fiberglass mat is going to fail within a year.
it is very easy to prevent rust, which is the oxidation of steel catalyzed by hydrogen. don't ever let water get to it. not ever.
and on an individual car, handmade and never subjected to wear, stress, thermal crazing of the paint, abrasion, or airborne deterioration of the coatings, you might just make a fine museum piece for the cost of a space shuttle.
on the street? ain't gonna happen.
Starting at that corner there is about a 1 to 1.5 inch radius of bubbling paint. This is on the outside surface. There does not appear to be any perforation and the inside surface of the metal is unmolested.
I'm wondering if this can be repaired by grinding away the rust and then just repainting the small spot. I'd rather not have the whole door repainted if I can avoid it.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
pay special attention to the fact that rain water is supposed to enter the door, and is supposed to exit by drain holes in the bottom and often right near the back corner. because that complicates things greatly.
now, is it possible to fix the door? maybe. once the trim panel is removed, and possibly electrical stuff removed from teh door if any goes down there, it might be clean enough to permit grinding out all the rust, and welding in clean metal. you may need to cold-galvanize the area as well. then the inside and outside need to be de-painted, solid primer like acid bonding stuff applied, then paint primer if needed for that chemistry of paint, and final paint.
it's a lot of work. much better to always touch up dings when they happen, even if you end up with a pimply appearance on the car. if it ever gets ugly enough, you can pay somebody to sand out the imperfections and topcoat it with new paint and clearcoat.
a lot of folks will buy a salvage door and install it instead if the appearance of an 11-year old car is that important.
If you mean body rust that flakes off with your fingernail, that's a big problem.
it's a feature, not a bug. they work great. rejoice in seeing them.
Yes, that's overspray and sanding dust on the rubber boot going into the door. Don't get me started!
You think it would be worth a shot? The metal already seems thin by the rust spot. When I tap on it with my finger it sounds more tinny there. What do you think?
Then once the rust is chemically made neutral, I suppose you could just bondo over it, sand it and prime it. That might last a year or two. I'm just worried that if you pop the windshield and the frame is weak with rust that you might not get it back in again very easily.
I'd kind of have to see it, how bad it is first.
Has anyone had good/bad experience with electronic rust proofing? Picking up a new Ford Freestyle later this week and dealership is offering this as part of an after-market protection package along with undercoating, fabric guard, etc ... I'm in the Canadian Prairies where road salt is as ubiquitous as flooding - so rust is a real concern.
Can't find much about the company (which to some degree is pretty telling) although they've been around for over a decade - Canadian Auto Preservation (CAP) Inc and their product is called Final Coat. www.capfinalcoat.com. Cannot find many consumer reviews/reports on these types of devices - which I view as a negative (if it's so good, why is it a secret when the tech has been around for many years?)
This company has a few patent applications in various countries and their product is backed/insured by Royal Sun Alliance (a top global insurer) - both of which I count as positives.
Thanks in advance.
I'm still looking for the details on the specifics of the coverage for this package. I'll re-reply if/when I get those. I thought I heard the dealer use the phrase "lifetime" - but not placing any stock in that unless I see it on the warranty certificate.
They claim the functional difference is that it stops rust from "the inside cavity". The general technical difference is it uses electronics rather than "liquids", so they claim it doesn't suffer from typical concerns of improper application of protectant, voiding factory warranties, having to re-apply/re-treat.
the automaker did electrostatic plating of the body with metallized primer when they made it. you aren't going to be able to stick anything else there anyway. that's how I'm sure this dealer is jiving you. someplace in a lockbox royal sun alliance insurance has an actuarial study that says they aren't going to have to pay out on this. they aren't going to have one that says this works.
you will do better having the undercarraige washed regularly at the car wash during snow/salt season. and don't park in a heated garage, you're better off leaving the crud frozen until you thaw it and flush it away with clean water at the wash.
sounds like they are systematically plating your credit card on these
Peeps that keep nice cars on the road must wash undercarrage often. I knew a guy who coated the whole underneath of his car with a mixture of oil and grease. It was messy to apply but i got to admit it worked. A product called Fluid Film is something i've had good luck with also. It sort of congeals and sticks to metal and fights rust very well. You have to shop around for it though. Brake shops around here carry it.
It's worth finding.
I believe they now use 99% salt to 1% sand on the roads in Manitoba! Believe it or not, last winter they did a pilot project spraying concentrated brine on a section of the Trans-Canada Hwy and may proceed to expand the practice as it was so 'successful'!
Issue, he's got no chemicals, any heard of this treatment and can advise manufacturer?
not sure if this "rust" thread is still active, but I have one for you... I just bought a 1991 4runner for $500. Runs strong enough, but it's a total rust bucket. The owner just had the brakelines replaced due to rust, so they're OK. It's all through the undercarriage, but as far as I can tell there are no holes in the actual frame, just some flaking. My question is this: is this thing actually dangerous to drive? I only use it on the rare occasion when I need 4WD (camping etc, maybe 20 times a year). I'll happily drive it until it crumbles unless it is actually dangerous. Could some major piece of the suspension or frame actually fall apart on the freeway? Thanks