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Comments
Say two cars both get 25 mpg.
If one has a small tank he may laugh at the guy with a large tank who has to put in 30 gallons.
The flip side is that the guy with the big tank will laugh at the guy with the small tank because he has to put in 10 gallons 3 times as often.
Tank size has nothing to do with efficiency of operation. If anything the larger tank is more efficient because it requires fewer trips to get gas, and those trips themselves consume fuel.
BTW my brother used to have a Rabbit diesel with a second tank. It held close to 20 gallons and could easily go 1,000 miles on a tank. Now that is cruising range.
It's time for all involved to agree to disagree and move on.
I hate hot weather, so if it's over 70, I've got the A/C cranked up!
My experience is that rate of acceleration away from full stops (in city traffic) makes a much bigger difference then the A/C. As does highway cruising over 70-75mph. In my limited time with my 2007 Civic EX/AT, it seems that 65-70 is my sweet spot for Interstate cruise control.
LOL
unless you life 20 miles away from the nearest gas station, i doubt how often one has to fill up makes that much of a difference. the smaller car still costs less to fill up.
No matter, because this is assuming you do get bas gas mileage with the civic; something i never did.
95% City driving on the first tank. 10.2 gallons and 245.4 miles = 24.06 MPG
90% HWY miles on a trip I took yesterday 6.02 gallons & 191.2 miles = 31.76 MPG
I'm VERY happy to get those figures considering the car doesn't have 500 miles on it yet. I'll report more in the coming months.
City and surburban driving, AC on all week - 33 mpg. Highway we do about 42 - I do the highway driving - between 68-72 mph.
Mark
One of these days I'll have to take a long trip and see if I push 40 like some others here. But since I rarely have need to do so, who knows when that will happen.
I think when the low fuel light goes on I have about 2.7 gallons left in the tank right at that point. I would suggest *not* running the tank really low however. If the 07's are anything like the '86 Accord I put 220k on, they design the fuel pump to use the gasoline as a "coolant" for the pump. (wow, use an explosive liquid as a coolant - what a concept, but i guess it works I used to run the Accord til it was waaay low. Fuel pump died on me at 70k miles. Stopped running it low (and I like to take turns fast, which sloshes the gas around in the tank when its low, so pump runs "dry" a lot that way.) I tried not to let the tank run really low, and the replacement fuel pump was still working after running 150k miles. Don't know if this differs as that was one the last of the carbuerated engines. Fuel pump was INSIDE the gas tank, and it cost a LOT to replace. Also, I think there are water condensation (and then rust) issues in certain climates when you regularly let the tank run below half from what I've read. I think you can do a net search on that.
btw, fuel gauges are typically notoriously "non linear". I think because fuel tanks are generally so irregularly shaped, and mfgrs don't try and calibrate them to the dash gauge, and then they all seem to get worse over time due to the basic design of the electrical sending unit inside the tank. So if the gauge says a quarter of a tank, its often not a quarter of the tank capacity left.
BTW Check out the Jeep Commander Real MPG thread - it's a hoot.
M
How large is the gas tank? I'd like to estimate how much MPG I'm getting.
As a result, we have pulled the last couple of tank fill ups for 43 mpg!!!
This is on a 2007 EX with AT.
200 miles, 33 mpg (all highway)
350 miles, 40.5 mpg (all highway)
350 miles, 40.5 mpg (all highway)
415 miles, 38 mpg (included some city driving)
330 miles, 40.5 mpg (all highway)
We drove another 375 miles after the last fill but have not put any more gas in as there is still about 1/3 tank left.
I don't remember the exact number of gallons, but I do remember the mpg calculations for each fill. In addition I should note the car had 4 people and a full trunk.
It's possible I may not have filled the tank as completely before that leg of the trip as I did the later times. But my observation after 3000 miles is the civic will do great at 65-70 mph but the mileage will drop off quickly if we consistently drive much faster than that. And all city driving will not yield 30 mpg, more likely low to mid 20s, still way better than our Mazda MPV.
I filled the tank at what appeared to be 1/3 full, and 7.6 gallons went in with 240 miles on the trip computer. That comes out to be 31.5 mpg. Wasn't bad.
I'm on the same tank now, and am going to fill up tomorrow morning before I get on the freeway...which will be all city driving. We'll see what the mileage is then.
But yeah, looks like the stickers for estimated EPA are pretty accurate. I would expect it to start getting better mileage as it gets broken in. Right now, there's 557 miles on the car.
Best Regards,
Shipo
anyway, 500 miles good enough you think before gettin up to 7500 rpm? i still broke her in easy till like 1000-2500, just the occational flooring it to hear that sexy vtec. Sadly though, i believe i burnt a little clutch on a one run. Either that or it was just the new engine burning off something. I was curious though, if your burning the clutch, the only damage done is to the clutch and flywheel though? ive been in my friends Sti, and hes burnt the clutch a shitload cause hes such a sloppy shifter.
Would like to hear Blueeyed's take on this.
The only way to avoid such is to be there when they unload it off the truck. I've had that good fortune a couple of times.
NOW, they could have beat the pi$$ out of it at the factory.
I don't buy cars that have been test driven. Except by me. It's a double standard on my part I admit, because I drive cars hard in the initial test drive. I won't redline, but I take it up and test the brakes hard.
--Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration
--Do not change the oil until the scheduled maintenance time
--Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles
--Do not tow a trailer
I'm not sure what "rapid acceleration" is with regards to the Civic Si. I said I took it up to 7500 rpms a couple time. That's it.
You might give these other URLs a read if you're curious about engine brake-in. What it gets down to is that babying the engine for the first 1000 miles or so is about the worst thing you can do. You need to give the engine a variety of conditions to *burn-in* the engine.
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/toyota-faq/RAV4/section-27.html
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
On small, high performance engines, keeping the RPMs consistently below a certain amount for the first X miles is the worst thing you can do. It's backed up by people who actually work on those engines.
One thing is for sure - on most new japanese cars - its not the engine that causes you to sell the car after X years. They last pretty good.
What is the redline on that engine?
Edit: I read your links. They contradict each other and some of what you said. The toyota link said not to wind it out until you hit 3500 miles. The other link said hit it hard int he first 20 miles or you missed your opportunity.
M
Breaking it in fast doesn't make it a bit faster than breaking it in so that all parts have a chance to match and polish one another. Break a ring and gouge a cylinder wall and you won't likely know it except that it just doesn't run quite as well as others and the gas mileage may be bad.
Better to break one in on back roads, so as to vary the RPM and keep from wearing a cylinder out of round.
Do that and the car will last it's longest and runs it's best.
Kip
Light to medium throttle and vary the RPM constantly.
Never red line a new engine!
"On small, high performance engines, keeping the RPMs consistently below a certain amount for the first X miles is the worst thing you can do. It's backed up by people who actually work on those engines."
Take this as a clue. It's backed up by people who actually work on those engines.
If it is broken-in properly and according to mfg suggestions those "PEOPLE" won't need to work on them! They work on the ones that are broken!
Manufacturers want the engines to run a long time.
Kip
Having said that, my mileage and time horizons are 420,000 miles and whatever happens to be the age when that gets done. I have already "set" the longer term life; by breaking it in with up and down revs during break in: to app 75% of redline revs, and doing the recommended 10,000 miles OCI on factory fill conventional oil. I am running 20,000 miles OCI's with synthetic 0w20/5w20 Mobil One and 20k oil filter changes. It looks like 100,000 miles is an absolute no brainer and at app 48,000 miles it gets 36-43 mpg in a daily commute. It will need 3/4 timing belt and water pump changes.
What is/are OCI's ?
Break-in procedure you used should assure long life, good mileage, and best performance.
Can't help but believe that at least some of the poor mileages reported are due to poor break-in procedures.
Thanks,
Kip