Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

1246716

Comments

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Yeah, your power steering problem could be the rack, but as the prior poster stated that's not very common on your year Dakota. I would guess that Saginaw (General Motors) power steering pump is beginning to fail.

    The symptoms you describe are typical for a bad intake manifold gasket and it was a problem on the earlier Magnum engines. I can't say I've seen or heard or a 2000 with this problem and i though Chrysler had that fixed by then. Of course, those very same symptoms can be caused by other things, like weak fuel supply or weak fuel pump, a bad fuel pressure regulator, a dirty throttle body, vacuum leaks from any number of rubber hoses, a weak ignition coil, bad spark plugs, etc.

    If you have a hole in your fuel filler tube you will definitely get a P0465 or P0456 code for sure.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • was wondering if i am missing something here with this engine? drove truck on sat.(ran fine) then went to work on mon. started to die at intersections idles very rough but starts fine when cold. there is no coolant bubling when running, or excessive oil blo-by, no intake or exhaust popping, changed plugs, coolant temp,checked injectors/coils all good pulled valve cover & all o.k. do i need a motor??
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Here is the scoop on your 2000 power steering. (assuming you have the 4.7L 4.7L V8 "semi-hemi" engine)

    For model-year 2000 the Dakota got a brand-new front end design. It replaced the old steering-box-with a rack-n-pinion. The 4.7L V8 "semi-hemi" engine also had a brand-new design PS pump.

    For model-year 2001, the specified fluid for this system changed to SYNTHETIC PS fluid. I suspect that Dodge discovered that "normal" PS fluid was not sufficent. Dodge changed the spec for the 2001 Daks to be ATF+4 (synthetic ATF fluid)

    Personally, in my 2000, my steering was VERY stiff anytime the ambient temparture was below minus 5F. I tried several different PS fluids and most of them were troublesome.

    I now run "RedLine power steering fluid" which is 100% PAO esters. (the very best synthetic lube that man can make) Since switching, I have NEVER had any issues with stiff steering no matter what the ambient temparture is.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    THe 4.7L V8 semi-hemi engine has proven itself to be VERY reliable. (There are very few other engines on the road that use a girdle made of special iron for the bottom end or MAGNESIUM valvecovers.)

    What do you mean when you say you have "zero compression".... did you actually check the compression with a compression tester and ALL eight cylinders read zero? I simply cannot beleive it.

    When was the last time you cleaned your IAC and checked your TPS? (I clean my IAC at least once a year.)

    Also, a PCV valve stuck open would cause the symptoms you describe

    definitions;
    IAC = Idle Air Controller
    TPS = Throttle Position Sensor
    PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventalation
  • i have no comp. in cyl. 1&4 others have 130# cleaned I.A.C & checked T.P.S. GOOD WORKING ORDER & up to spec'.yes it was checked w/ a real compression tester, looked down plug hole w/ bore scope valves appear to be working inside as well as visual check on valve train.
  • I use Moble 1 and have for about 30,000 miles
  • this engine is really pretty strong and carries good oil pressure it runs cool just has that knock when it warms up, the truck has had a new distributer put in at 35,000 and a new catalytic converter (excuse spelling)at about 40,000 mi.
  • Hopefully somebody can assist me with a problem I'm having regarding a waterpump I just installed. I just put a new waterpump on my 2000 Dodge Dakota Pickup. The pump works fine, but the engine tempature skyrockets up to past 260 degrees. I'm thinking their's a vapor lock in the engine that's not letting water flow over the Thermostat, therefore it's not opening to let water flow thru the engine. Hopefully somebody has a solution to this problem.

    Any assistance anyone can provide will be greatly appreciated.

    Regards,

    Joe
  • bthevbthev Posts: 2
    I've got a major loss of MPG(8-15) and it's getting worse! Problem was first noticed after a coolant change, oil change, and belt replacement at a shop. The belt was replaced to bypass the failing compressor. Also I went with a high mileage oil this time (117000 miles). Took it to a different shop and they didn't find any codes, they also did a fuel injector test...all OK. Replaced PCV, plugs, wires, rotor and cap. There is also a noticable ticking sound coming from the engine. Clutch also needs to be replaced but I haven't noticed any major slipping. I also hear a whining noise behind my drivers seat, not like wind, but like rubber or gears. Tires OK.

    Here are my thoughts:
    1. Problems with valves and lifters
    2. Exhaust leaks
    3. Computer needs an update
    4. Compressor actually improves engine performance
    5. More transmission problems than I realize

    Any thoughts on this would be appreciated!

    SPECIAL NOTE: I have been using Bosch Platinum plugs before and after the MPG problem..they work fine. The split type give better economy and the single type more power.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    What engine?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Dusty,

    Thank you for your reply. The engine I have is the 6 cyclinder. I installed a flush kit and that fixed the problem. I talked to a person at a local auto parts store and he said I need to remove the radiator cap and let the engine run. This lets any air bubbles out.

    Thanks again,

    Joe
  • i have a 1992 dodge dakota 4x4 with the v8 it will not run properly sometimes it will start right up and idles great but when i drive a little it dies then when i try to start it back up it doesnt always die though sometimes it does but it just wont take any gas it has also done this while driving ill be riding along at about 25 mph then it just stops accepting gas im pushing the pedal to the floor but she will not respond i have to coast over and manually turn it off and restart it a few times till it will accept the gas again i obtained this truck as is so i do not know what led up to the problems someone please know th3e answer to this cause i can not afford a diagnostic
  • my dakota loses power to the coil when i give it gas.. i have replaced the fuel pump, coil, cam plate under the distributor cap and the oil pressur sending unit.. my truck will idle all day long, i can wiggle wires, vacumn hoses and what ever, and it will stay running, but as soon as i idle up the engine, it dies.... i have a tester on the coil, and it loses fire to it... after i try starting it a few times, sometimes more, it will start back up, but can only idle.. im running out of ideas and money....Engine is a 6 cyl, 3.9 PLEASE HELP !!! Mike
  • today i changed the crank position sensor 2/25/07 -------it still wont run with the motor at high R.P.M.s.... i was told if the check engine light isnt on, then it wont show a code....
  • Hi guys, its been awhile, i have had a lot going on. Anyways, I have a 01 QC 4.7 auto 4x4 with 77k miles. I was going to change spark plugs again with the stock champions but was wondering if any great successes with a longer lasting platinum type????
    Also, I was going to change my trany fluid. Done this before on other trucks, but I understand my auto trans has a spin on filter inside. Any special tools needed or tricks to know?? Any help and comments appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Tom.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    A lot of folks are running Bosch Platinum +4 (#4418)in the 4.7L semi-hemi engine.

    As for your xmission - I special-ordered he manual xmission myself. I do know that if you do not use the proper ATF+4 (synthetic) fluid in the automatic, you would be asking for troubles.
  • i have a 2001 dodge dakota quad 4.7 im putting new universal o2 sensors in and the wires dont match the old wires are blue, white and 2 blacks new wires are black, grey and 2 whites the sensor is a sng # sn4-102 what do i do?
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Posts: 43
    the best plugs to run beleive it or not are the cheapest,they are also a cooler running plug. Auto Lite 3923, you can pick them up at wal-mart for 10 bucks for all 8. Plugs with plat. tips will detonate and cause problems.
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Posts: 43
    if the connector will plug in then you should be good to go if not you might want to return it because itis probably the wrong one.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    In this model year there are a number of things that could cause this problem. I have seen aftermarket tune up parts, such as distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires cause similar problems. Bad or worn spark plugs can also be a cause. I would recommend using only Mopar ignition and tune-up parts.

    A bad PCV valve can also cause this, especially in the winter time when there's higher levels of moisture in the crankcase. The water freezes the PCV plunger as vacuum pulls air through the crankcase, causes reduced air flow (essentially closing the throttle) and stalls the engine. Clogged or partially clogged PCV valve hoses can do the same thing.

    More serious things could be a bad crankshaft position sensor, a bad intake manifold gasket, or a defective catalytic converter, clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump.

    I'd start with the ignition components and closely inspect things. A vehicle that old is bound to have cracked rubber vacuum hoses. Check them all.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Did you seem to take a dip in gas mileage suddenly?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I, too, have used the Bosch Platinum+4s my 4.7. They've given me no problems, but I've changed them out at 45,000.

    If you have the 4.7 engine the automatic transmission is the 545RFE. This transmission uses two (2) filters. The primary filter is attached by a screw typical of older Mopar transmissions. Be careful of seal when installing the new filter. The second, oil cooler return filter is installed using a small oil filter wrench.

    CAUTION: Only use Mopar ATF+4 (MS-9602)automatic transmission fluid, Chrysler part number 5013457AA. Do not use ATF+3 or any other type of fluid.
    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Okay, can you be more specific about the loss of spark as the engine RPM is raised? Have you checked the polarity of the coil?

    Just because the check engine lamp is not illuminated, doesn't mean that there is no code stored.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Hi Dusty, Yes I am aware of the ATF+4 and have used that before for top off. So am I to understand that I wiil see a flat type of screen filter with a tube for one filter (what i'm used to) and also a second motor oil type screw on filter as well. I do not have an optional trans cooler.

    thanks,
    Tom.
  • muntstermuntster Posts: 4
    i found the problem with my 94 dodge dakota (finally) it was the wire going to the transmission, it got a bare spot in it some how, and when i gave the motor some gas, it must of caused it to ground out and send the computer a message to shut down for awhile... thanks for any help.. muntster
  • crowe5crowe5 Posts: 6
    I have a 1997 2wd dakota 5 speed with a 2.5 4 cylinder engine. th eidle out of nowhere, is high , extreme loss of fuel mileage, and a check engine light on saying misfire cylinder 1, and all the cylinders have good compression, clear that code, and the next code is somthing about high idle.. can anyone help..
  • bthevbthev Posts: 2
    Dusty,
    Yes the gas mileage suddenly dipped. It was right after I had an oil change to a high mileage oil and a belt replacement to bypass the failing compressor for the A/C.
    Thanks for the reply.
Sign In or Register to comment.