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Perhaps this is common in the industry, and that I just didn't realize it.
Going to be extra careful now to make sure they still have the mfg new stickers on them when I buy anywhere next time.
Did anyone say that they sold them as new??? Maybe I missed that but I don't think Discount Tire or anyone else is selling used tires as new.
cusafr
http://www.toyo.com/docs/findadealer.asp
Regards
Corkscrew
Went from the 205/60 16 to 205/65 15 for my snow tires (Michelin X-ice). Now I am ready for winter. They arrive tomorrow and I will swap out the summer rubber once the snow starts to fly.
I almost went with the 195/65 15 (standard on the VP) for a narrower profile (more bite in the snow) but the tire is .7 inches shorter than stock, so I kept the same width.
Anyone out there with this model Accord who knows THE TRUTH? I'd certainly appreciate hearing from you. I hope I've articulated my question clearly. Experts only need respond....
You might want to investigate the different tires available in the factory size opting for a "touring" tire as opposed to a "performance" tire. That might allow more sidewall flexibility.
Another option might be to trade with someone with a 4cyl EX with the 205/60R16 tires and wheels.
I guess the short answer is find a tire that is more oriented towards your driving style and needs in the factory stock size.
215/50/17 tires on Accord's,Altima's,and Camry' being the worst possible tires to have on these cars for driving in snow. The article recommended replacing the tires because if they spin in ice and snow the traction control will apply the brakes such that you won't be able to move forward. Sounds crazy to me,but i wanted to run it by
Honda owners who have driven in winter snow.
Comments??
The traction control system allows some slip, so it should figure out what is happening and get you underway. Flooring it might not do anything though, just keep retarding the throttle and grabbing the brakes. The electronic systems are designed to help drivers, not compensate for being an idiot or something.
And, in the Honda you can completely disable the VSA at the touch of a button. I do not know about the Toyota.
I made it in ok, but REALLY can't wait to get my snow tires on today. Traction control (or whatever Honda calls it) was quite effective as was ABS, but these stock Dunlops (215-60-16) aren't good enough for these conditions up here in VT by a long shot.
-Dave in VT
They have the Eagle GT for about the same price and the Tire Guy was pushing the Yokohama YK520 for about 30 bucks more per tire. The Goodyear's a 50k, the Yokohama is a 60k and the Goodrich is a 70k.
So does speed rating really mean that much? Do I really need to flip an extra $120 for an H or is the T ok?
These "50k" or "60k" ratings are relatively meaningless. What they are referring to is a "treadwear index" that each manufacturer assigns their own tires. That number means it lasts X-times as long as a "standard tire" (which they supposedly buy to test against). There is no standard for how the test is performed. That treadwear number also represents the hardness of the tread, so typically the higher the number the lower the grip.
So does speed rating really mean that much? Do I really need to flip an extra $120 for an H or is the T ok?
A V-rated tire is stronger than an H-rated tire is stronger than a T-rated tire...those speed ratings mean the carcass is strong enough to handle the additional temperature and forces from a wheel spinning faster. "Performance tires" aren't just for weaving around cones or curves, they also stop faster and respond better in emergency situations.
So what you are asking is "will I feel a difference between a $70 tire and a $100 tire? Yes, most likely you would.
They do not handle as well in the dry, but the car is certainly safe, and I drive at 80 on the interstate without worry. I have been running Q rated snows for the last 15 years.
I would not run Q rated summer tires, but H should be fine.
I have the perfect solution for you! I will trade you my 2007 16" wheels, which use a taller sidewall and will give you a softer ride, for your 17" v-6 wheels! You could keep the same overall diameter as you have now, but with a smaller wheel and taller sidewall.
I'm actually looking for a slightly stiffer ride and would like to purchase a set of 17" wheels.
Does anyone know of a good place to find 17" OEM Accord wheels?
I can obviously buy them through the dealer, but the price is way too high. I'm looking for second-hand wheels, from someone who has upgraded/changed their factory wheels, or from a wrecked Accord with good wheels?
Any suggestions on businesses, websites, forums, classifieds that I could utilize to find these factory Accord wheels?
I'm actually looking for a slightly stiffer ride and would like to purchase a set of 17" wheels.
LOL I tried that already
I'm looking for second-hand wheels, from someone who has upgraded/changed their factory wheels, or from a wrecked Accord with good wheels?
eBay. Craigslist. Local tuner forums (I think the Michigan one is xceedspeed or something). Tire Rack.
The MXV4 Michelins have 34k on them now and with winter and snow coming quickly here in Connecticut, I think its time to get some new shoes
I'm looking for All-Season tires.
It's very important that I get a tire that offers a smooth and quiet ride along with a tire that gives me a solid grip in nasty weather conditions.
The local dealers suggested I look at the following tires:
Bridgestone Turanza Serenity
Goodyear Triple Tred
Mastercraft XLR Cooper
Toyo Spectrum
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Royalty.......Yes...who does that? So I know where I will never go to buy "new" tires!
Since the stock wheels in the front and the wheels from the back are obviously interchangeable for tire rotation, it would be weird that stock EX wheels wouldn't also be interchangeable.
If the other rims were aftermarket there is a hub-centric ring that is sometimes required. Since in your case, the rims are stock, I don't know why you would need one.
I would check the hub surface for damage and the wheel surface for damage.
It is likely you will need new lug nuts, however, as the style typically used for steel wheels doesn't work with alloy wheels.
Nah, shouldn't make a lick of difference. It has nothing to do with the hub diameter or the bolt pattern of the wheel.