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Saturn S-Series: code p0101

2

Comments

  • catmando1catmando1 Posts: 10
    Thank goodness for these forums, and all of you who have shared your experiences. After reading this thread, I confirmed my problem to be the intake manifold gasket on my '01 SL1, and just finished changing it out this afternoon. Not a real difficult job, but it did take a little time. I'll put some miles on it this week and see if the check engine light will stay off.

    Cheers...it's Miller time!
    Matt
    '01 SL1, 230K and counting
  • saturnbluesaturnblue Posts: 10
    I noticed you mentioned having an abbreviated list of sorts for changing out the intake manifold gasket, could I get that list from you as well if it's not a problem?

    I have PO301 and PO507 in doubles and single pairs with variable code sequence and I've collected all the necessary tools, but a step in the Chiltons that specifies relieving the fuel rail pressure also recommends replacing the o-rings on the injectors each
    time they're removed, other than obvious cracking from ozone damage, is this step along with draining all the Antifreeze a necessary step for replacing the Manifold gasket?

    Thanks.
  • catmando1catmando1 Posts: 10
    I can't speak for Booboo6, but I did successfully replace my gasket yesterday. I tackled the job without a manual, which might have helped a bit. First...be sure that the gasket is for sure the problem by spraying carb cleaner around each intake port at the cylinder head with the car running...if it races or chokes, then it is definitely sucking in air and the gasket is shot.

    The fuel rail is easy to disconnect at the end. A special squeeze clip is all that locks it in place and a gentle tug will pull it off (don't let it squirt you in the eye, and be ready to catch about two ounces of fuel from the rail since the pressure is relieved).

    the antifreeze caught me by surprise...I didn't pay enough attention to other posts in this thread. The manifold gasket does seal off cooling passages within the cylinder head, and once the seal is broken (as your removing the manifold) the contents of the head will leak out. So, draining at least a portion of the coolant...say a gallon or so...might prevent it from spilling down the back of the engine and onto the floor or ground.

    I wasn't able to acquire a torque wrench for the job...and also was confused with the torque specs in my Haynes manual (only listed up to 1999)...so I did a no-no and winged it. I tightened in 4 stages, evenly, starting from the center of the manifold and working outward. This is very tedious, and is probably much worse with an actual torque wrench. Perhaps someone else can comment on that.

    sorry....long-winded...but hope this might help.

    Matt
  • saturnbluesaturnblue Posts: 10
    I know what you mean about the torque settings, I have a torque wrench, but I have to find it first, it does say in the Chiltons to start from the center and work your way outwards, so you're correct in that step, the torque settings are a bit confusing, up til 99 on DOHC and SOHC it says 22 ft-lbs 2000 and above it's 114 "inch" lbs for the DOHC only, why the change in 2000 for the DOHC and in inch-lbs. vice ft-lbs. is a bit odd unless they started using a different alloy around the manifold surface area bolt studs.

    The manual says something about a schrader valve depressing to relieve the fuel pressure, (this step is in another chapter from the 20 sentence steps listed for the manifold replacement.

    Did you remove your hood to do your gasket? I'm thinking about doing it and the valve cover just to get a better view of what I'm doing, the other thing is I might want to replace my serpentine belt as I have an oil wicking problem where the leaking oil only leaks when the car is running and whips all over the underside of the hood and some of the hoses in the vicinity.

    Since I have to relieve the tension on the serpentine to remove the power steering pump, I thought it would be a good time to replace it before the oil eats up the belt or causes it to fail,(I don't know for sure I'm guessing) my past problems were limited to just cracks in the rubber due to age and ozone exposure, this is my 3rd Saturn, my 1st one
    (91)I traded in just as the catalytic converter was starting to be really noisy like a bunch of marbles trapped inside it.

    My second one was a used 92 SL2 and I found out quickly about the TSB that related to the non-joke of carrying around a case of oil in the trunk because of it's notorious
    oil burning problems, once I came back after my wife had been driving the car and she said it sounded like clicking
    in the engine,(1500 miles without an oil level check) to me it sounded like dieseling, lo and behold, the dip-stick was bone dry, almost no oil! Anyway I got rid of it as soon as possible, ironically 6 months later I spied it traveling in the same direction one morning, (some woman was driving it) in a city of over a million people what a surprise, I just feel sorry for her even though I replaced about $1000 worth of stuff during the 2 years I owned it, the most expensive being that damn $700 windshield after I kilt a mosquito and cracked that old windshield.

    Anyway, thanks for the advice on the 2 oz of fuel drippage, I have lots of pads to absorb that and maybe it won't burn or corrode through the plastic layer of these diaper pads.
  • saturnbluesaturnblue Posts: 10
    One last bit, I did the carb cleaner on the top of the intake area and it revved up each time I did it, this was a confirmation of some advice I paid for just to make sure as I didn't wish to give away my money to Saturn if I could fix the problem and finish getting my car smogged as these 2 flags are the only thing keeping my car from getting smogged and I'm ready to start getting better mileage already since I'm already paying $4.60 a gallon out here in
    "you're being punished for not enough of you voting (R) in SoCal" it's always political of course if I wanted to waste more gas, I could do what some are doing and drive down to Mexico where state price supports make it about $2 a gallon cheaper! ($2.45)!!!
  • saturnbluesaturnblue Posts: 10
    I changed my gasket out last thursday (July 3rd) and it took me longer because I spent a lot of time looking for my hand-me-down torque wrench which I gave up looking for after a few hours.

    Most of the time I wasted 2 out of 4 hours was trying until the next day when I found out (duh) that the drain for the radiator is merely a 1/4" socket, (double duh for me!) the
    power steering pump was the lone problem as removing 3 bolts did little until I noticed that there's a hard to reach bolt at the bottom of the P.S. bracket, I managed to
    push the P.S. pump back far enough to give me the necessary clearance to push the intake assembly off the engine studs.

    I used nitrile gloves to protect my hands and a shop rag to absorb the gas from the rail, (there was no pressure in my line, but a bit of liquid gas)
    I didn't have 2 oz drain out, most likely due to having the Saturn at an incline with the front wheels on a level surface (for the jack stands stability) I used the left over gas on a shop rag to clean off the 2 mating surfaces and once I had full clearance, the gasket went on without any problems, I too hadn't drained enough coolant, so as I removed all the nuts, some coolant started dribbling out, so I opened the drain again to lower the coolant level.

    Since the book (Chilton's) calls for 22 ft-lbs. on the intake nuts for the SOHC 2002 SL I felt the relative ease at removing the nuts in the middle and it was a bit harder on the edges, this is probably due to more heat concentration on the middle and less on the edges where the
    flexing of the metal is different (I suppose) so I tried not to over tighten and I followed the recommendation for tightening from the center and working outward.

    After all of this, I started it up and all my codes disappeared! Now I can pass the smog!
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    I'm in NYC right now. I'll send you after I get back to MA. I did the list to show only the necessary steps to do the operation. I logged the times for each step to demonstrate how excessive is Saturn's quoted 5 hour labor. If anyone else has the list I sent (I sent out to a couple of folks in this forum, please forward to the fellow in need. Keep in mind that the Hayne's manual and references to fuel rail is for those literally REMOVING the manifold. That is not what we are doing here for gasket change. A lot of steps are not needed. Do not remove the fuel rail from the manifold. Fuel rails goes along for the ride with the intake manifold while assembled together.

    Draining antifreeze from the block is necessary, with draining the radiator also good idea, but not necessary. Just the block is necessary and there will be some leakage when separating the intake manifold from the head. The P0301 is 1st cyl misfire, so you have a bad leak at the passenger end of the manifold. P0507 is fast idle and loss of idle speed by black box. The leaked air got detected triggering more fuel flow and faster idle. When idle switch is enabled and engine rpm much above 750 rpm or so, P0507 will trigger.
  • darkfyre07darkfyre07 Posts: 12
    So it's been almost 5000 miles since I replaced the manifold gasket, and so far, not a single problem has risen. i've regularly checked around the intake manifold for any signs of leakage, besides the normal seaping from it being new, and nadda on both. I did however swap out a set of ignition coils and the module to help get a better spark since the repair, not out of necessity, but out of instinct, and had the old coils tested and as my instincts told me, the coils were degrading. I was told that is the only other problem with the Saturn SL series, and that it was a very common idea to just swap them out if they needed it or not to save in the future. Thanks again for the help guys.

    Matt
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    Your problem has been resolved by the gasket change. You can bet on that! There should be no seeping. Not sure if you meant you heard some. A good gasket is the case with most Japanese cars. Their gaskets last life of car. Ironically, only with the Saturn SL did I have to go through the labor of changing the intake manifold gasket! The other thing to look after is THE BATTERY. The OEM AC-Delco battery with side terminals is prone to LEAK. The Saturn SL uses a good inert plastic battery tray with 2 deep reservoirs to catch acid. Both got filled and started to fill up the tray. I lost all the acid above the side terminal in the first cell at the positive terminal. The acid dribbled on one hardware and dissolved it, and dribbled on the tranny oil filter. I found leak in time, but will change out tranny oil and filter. Had the tray been metal and/or not designed to catch and hold the 4-5 oz of acid that came out, I would be looking at serious damage to tranny connections, the entire solenoid panel for shifting, etc. Check your battery terminals. Top terminal are safer as they are above acid, but side terminals are below the battery acid head and will leak in time.
  • darkfyre07darkfyre07 Posts: 12
    luckily, the previous owner put a battery in with top terminals, and did it the day before I bought the car, thank god. The reason that I knew about the coils is from my mechanic, god rest him. He said that he had heard from enough people that Saturns built in, or maintained under warranty in Canada have bad coils, plug wires and ignition modules, and that they can be expensive, but that a quick $25 swap from a wrecker will fix most problems, so long as you pick one up from a 97-99 Saturn (canadian cars sometimes are very cheaply made and most often break down faster then their American built versions), mine being built mostly in Tennessee, but the electronics were swapped out in Oshawa Ontario during some dealer maintenance when the car was under warranty, using parts from the GM plant warehouse.
  • catmando1catmando1 Posts: 10
    Well, to update since my repair (last Sunday)....I was very pleased with how smoothly it was running again, not the constant putt-putt out the exhaust that I was hearing before. I also cleaned out the gas tank vent filter (not sure if there is a name for it)--driving 8-10 miles of chalky dirt road each day had caused it to totally cake up with dirt and prevent the vent from working properly.

    The car ran two days without a code showing up and I thought all was well. Well, I took it on a road trip (>400miles) and a code showed up along the way. Autozone read the code as 0410--secondary intake system malfunction.

    The other thing I'm having problems with now, is that it seems to have a significant loss of power--particularly when climing even the slightest of hills. At highway speed, I might lose 10 mph as the cruise tries to keep up. I also noticed significantly poorer gas mileage that what I've been getting for a long time. I was reading about 31-32 mpg, and usually it's 36-38. So, I'm assuming that I still have a significant issue--maybe O2 sensor, maybe just plugs/wires, or maybe bad compression from the leaking intake gasket that I negleted for a LONG time.

    Anyway....I'll give it the plugs and wires when I return home and see how it goes.
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    OK on the coils. I'll look into them. The other thing to prepare for based on my service log is P0442. Saturn's OEM gas cap for whatever reason, appears not to be impervious to gasoline. After just 5 years, the thick gasket looked like all littered with bicycle wheel spokes... that is, radial cracks all around the seal. The gasket rubber also became pretty hard. Both conditions contributed to failure to seal the filler neck. This is detected at P0442 within 30 seconds of starting the car when tank pressure change is measured over time based on how full gas tank is to determine P0442 trigger. It is possible that the enthanol additive to most gasoline was responsible to deterioration of the gas cap seal. Replacement was general quality replacement (does not have lanyard as with original cap): $12.
  • saturnbluesaturnblue Posts: 10
    I've got a couple hundred miles already and no problems with that pesky 507/301 problem thus far since I changed out the intake gasket on July 3rd.

    I'm at over 108K miles on my 02 SL and today while at a drive-thru, I was fortunate to notice that my engine temp which normally rides a hair above 1/4 gauge was not only heading towards 3/4, but my A/C wasn't working, so I figured
    that the cooling fan probably bit the dust, so I had to alternate between running the car when I could move and turning it off when I was sitting idle behind stalled traffic.

    The book says check thermostat, but I knew if that was the problem, I would not have been able to cool down the coolant temp by forcing air through the radiator by driving.

    As I drove faster, the temp did go down and it went down to it's normal (fan working) temperature, I managed to get home
    tested the dead fan after checking the relays and lone 30amp
    fuse and it all led back to the dead fan motor reading around 114Kohms, like an open or blown fuse, fan diode is fine with 2.2Kohms in one direction and infinity reversed.

    Taking the fan out was rather fast, the price for a replacement is as follows, Napa wanted $130 for an entire replacement assembly, Saturn was charging $104 for the fan motor and then I remembered a nice parts place that sold good parts for a reasonable price, (Parts +) and they had a couple in stock for under $35 including tax, what a bargain!

    Installing it was easier than removing it and the A/C was restored and putting out really cool air again, oh and the engine was restored to non-overheated status, a minor side benefit.
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    Unfortunately for SL, the A/C option does not have a separate fan along side "radiator" fan as in other cars, so when the only fan that doubles as A/C condenser fan fails, you get no backup of a second fan. Only point to note is that if you could stand the heat, just roll down the car windows, turn on the heat and you'll quickly control the temperature of the coolant using inside fan speed! As you have A/C, it would be necessary to remove the connector that runs the A/C compressor if you want to give yourself a break and operate heater in defroster mode. If done right, the heat coming out of base of windshield (defroster mode) pretty much goes over your head and out the windows. The SL energizes the A/C compressor when doing the defroster modes.
  • I have a 2001 SL2 saturn that is pulling the same 410 code you had, when the light is on the car also runs rough and drinks gas like yours did. What did you ever find out to resolve that issue? Mine also says secondary air injection :confuse:
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    I'm eagarly awaiting for feedback on 410 code. It is not listed in the Haynes Manual for Saturn S through '02. The '01 and '02 has no EGR, just sort-term air injection via DC blower. When that operates during first 1 minute (or less) at cold start, the solenoid on vacuum line is also operated to open the passage of the blower into the exhaust manifold. This heats up the catylst quickly and control bad emissions during this brief period. When blower stops, the vacuum line to the air valve is suppressed to prevent hot exhaust from coming back and melting the blower and other things. I can't see how secondary post-burn injection would cause the issues described. Code 410 likely somehow affects fuel mix, or some plugs are not firing. There is no secondary intake of air in the Saturn SL '01/'02.
  • I think you're right, there's no indication that anything is wrong with the DC blower.

    I've never been able to resolve the problem. The car runs great until it reaches operating temperature, then it's sluggish and stumbling on acceleration, and loses power on hills on the highway. I'm wondering if the coolant temp sensor could be bad and causing a problem with the fuel management.(I assume from my mileage and the appearance of my spark plugs that it's running rich).

    Do you know what symptoms would show up with a bad temp sensor???
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    I didn't realize the problem is still ongoing. It's not the coolant sensor. I'd bet on that. I bought extra one to put in my car because the suspicious one was impossible to measure when in the car. It was not expensive part. In the '01/'02 Saturn, the sensor you see under the top water hose at the block IS the coolant sensor AS WELL AS the sensor for feeding the temperature gauge. If the temperature gauge reads normally, don't bother with the coolant sensor. Running rich is a good clue moving on the problem. Are all the plugs same looking? I think 1-3 and 2-4 are paired on sparks. If all plugs look foul, then I would suspect over rich, vs. no-fire or misfire due to one coil pack going bad messing up the affected cylinders only. OK on highway and climbing issues... how's the hot idle? That could give it away too. Fact is, if idle is good, but highway and high demand conditions (hill climbing) are bad (i.e. higher performance conditions only), you may have insufficient fuel flow rather than spark problem. If it leans out and misburns, you will also get fouling, not due to over-rich mix, but rather unburnable mix. In sufficient fuel flow as in clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump is what I'm saying. If a vacuum leak, it'll show up at idle. Vacuum problem not much of an issue when you open the throttle and bleed down the vacuum anyway, making leaks less important.
    I think you have some clues now to give it a whirl. As a quick painless test, don't overlook the simple PCV valve. It is reverse spring loaded to prevent flow during idle as PCV will mess up your idle, but it is to open at low vacuum conditions. If you have missing dipstick or other potential leaks, that could affect your open-throttle air mix. A simple test is to plug up the PCV connection and preclude any PCV action just to discard this possible problem.
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    I did find code 410 for Saturn S. Code 410 is only for California SOHC and DOHC models. The code does mean secondary air injection issues, but as with all P-codes, they need to be filtered. The 410 code for the rest of us outside CA means that the exhaust is too rich as detected by the O2 sensor. We take this code 410 to mean "there is a problem upstream". The excessive unburned HCs in the exhaust may be due to improper burn (spark), or truly excessive fuel in the mix. Reduced gas economy does not necessarily equate to excessive richness. If the burn fails (like too lean), or there are spark problems, you end up pushing unburned gas out the exhaust and you make up for the loss of power by apply more gas and let try to get back needed engine output. You lose gas mileage due to unburned gas is all. The problem should be solvable, stepping our way there.
  • Thank you for your reply. I live in a small town and this issue has stumped our local mechanics, my closest dealer is over 100 miles away. I have replaced my plugs with new ones and have always run bosch 4 prong plugs as the car has always run better with these. I bought the car at 20,000 miles and now it has like 160,000 miles. I have replaced the fuel pump as well. When the light comes on the car has no power, runs real rough like skipping sounds like it wants to cut out and the fuel milage is terrible, if they clear the code sometimes it comes right back some times it will stay off for a few days. I am at lost as to how to stop the problem, my car does have a egr valve as well. I have tried different fuel treatments dont seem to help much. seems to have started after I bought some cheap gas at a station that contained ethanol. I just dont know what to do.
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    EGR only slighlty complicate the troubleshooting. I thought you have a '01/'02 Saturn S? If so, THERE IS NO EGR. The item visible in front of engine (of '01/'02 models) rather than near on the battery side of block, is really just a vacuum operated valve for the cold-start air pump injection path. EGR problems mainly affect a car when it is at idle, i.e. the EGR is opened and exhaust mixing down the intake mix when EGR valve should be closed and not allow this mixing. EGR operation is only to happen when the car throttle is opened, like basically all the other conditions. This is why specifics need to be known completely, in terms of whether a problem occurs at idle condition, at driving, or both. The fuel pump replacement takes care of some questions, but when I read the part about lacking power, it still sounds to me like the problem is only when engine is on-demand, that all is well at idle. Please clarify if the car is truly "like new" when car is idling. As the issue is similar to the other fellow, mention if the car runs "like new" when at cold idle and at hot idle. Also, please mention when, if at all, the car ever runs perfectly OK, even for short periods.
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    There is a good chance the problem is in the 02 sensor. Code 410 while not applicable to the federal model car (non CA), is still triggered by what 02 sensor. For our model S-series, we essentially have the same air injection as CA model. The secondary air injection is the blower after all, and we are talking about injecting air into the exhause manifold. Interestingly enough, 0410 is triggered only many many of the other sensors are correctly operating! I'm awaiting confirmation that your car runs PERFECTLY when cold, and only when hot, problems occur. If so, it is the 02 sensor. Before car is hot, you operate in open-loop without 02 feedback. The 02 sensor is not used in the fuel mix. But once you are hot per the coolant sensor, your car no longer operates in pre-programmed approx fuel mix, but switches to lean operation, with fuel mix is controlled with help of signal from the 02 sensor. If this signal is wrong, your mix will be wrong. The giveways are: 1. Car is fine at idle, and 2. Drivability problem sonly when full hot. The car is expected to be fine at idle even with this problem because when throttle is closed, you operate in open loop. The throttle position sensor will tell car to operate in open loop when throttle is closed. To the other fellow suggesting changing 02 sensor may well hit the nail on the head. Don't drive car with this problem too long as your expensive catalytic sensor may expire. If overrich, at least we don't need to worry about burned valves.
  • OK....a few more details may help.
    --the plugs all looked about the same, white discoloration, two had carbon buildup on base of threads (car's been an oil burner since 30k, though).
    --the hot idle seems OK, but not real smooth. It idles at about 800 rpm, but there's a little more vibration than there used to be. No misfires like there was when intake manifold gasket was bad.
    --I can overcome the stumbling on acceleration by flooring the gas pedal. It acts like the problem is a "partial throttle" condition. Once the accelerator reaches a certain point (about 75% to the floor), it pulls hard and accelerates. Then, as you let off, you feel it revert back to the stumbling.
    --I just changed the main O2 sensor near the converter. The initial O2 sensor was new last year, but I could try changing it again. Not sure if I mentioned in this thread-- I sconnected this sensor because the stumbling was severe.
    --I bought a fuel pressure gauge---it read about 2 psi lower than specification range.

    I'll try the PCV valve test today.
  • sorry...that should have read "I disconnected this sensor...."

    also, I forgot....the fuel filter is new.
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    As an oil burner, the carbon indications won't be as useful. In general, when the car runs rich, it runs fine... a gas economy issue. If car operates at cold mix for example, car should run fine and waste gas. When there is stumbling, it often means excessive leaning and gas economy most to making up for misfires and misses. The rpm should be aroun 800 rpm in Park/Neutral. Hot idle in Drive (assuming you have auto) should be 650 rpm. If idle is fine, you don't have a vacuum leak and PCV won't be the problem and likely not EGR if applicable to your car. Our '01/'02 deleted the EGR from gen2 cars because the mix is a lot more critically controlled, to include an accurate 02 sensor. Some nonSaturns have 2 02 sensors to do away with EGR to qualiffy. This is why I started to suspect 02. However, if the problem is only at mid throttle, the variable resistor of the throttle position sensor may be worn out in that position zone. There's no other reason why the problem as severe as it is climbing a hill, goes away when you floor it some more, assuming you already downshifted. It's about a $40 part. Have you a buddy to swap the part with for testing? Simple to remove. Need T-6 (Torx) 90 deg screwdriver or a 1/8" socket drive T-6 to remove 2 screws.
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    I didn't mean T-6. Trying to look up my notes. The Torx size for the 2 screws for the throttle pos sensor is not T-15, which is the size for your light assemblies on the car. It was smaller than T-15. T-6 is miniature as quoted. Sorry! I suspect throttle pos sensor in light of your info. There's little left to suspect in this elimination process.
  • oh, I never specified, I guess...mine is manual trans. Going down the highway and approaching a hill, I gradually push the accelerator and watch the speed drop and drop, until I reach a certain point in the throttle position---then it begins to pull again. It's kinda reminiscent of a 4-barrel kicking in the secondaries, except it's only a Saturn and a 1.9 liter (so not much "kick in the pants")

    Definitely sounds like a reasonable explanation. I don't have anyone to swap parts with to do a "test", so I guess I'll just bite the bullet and replace it. I'm curious, though, would the problem not show up at startup when the engine is cold?

    You've been very helpful...
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    You can test the thing, but the tabs are so clumbsy and a voltage needs to be applied. If interested and don't have the info, send me your E-mail by sending to mine. My profile has my E-mail posted. I can scan you the page describing the test. The connector is very easy to remove, but you do have to make wire extentions with your junk electrical contacts bin to make up something to slip onto the contact.

    The problem you describe also reminds me in the past when the centrifugal advance didn't work right. As RPMs go up, there would be insufficient spark advance. Saturn takes care of this via electronic ignition and the crank position sensor to learn of rpm. MAP takes care of vacuum advance.

    If you are referring to startup at idle, the signal is different. With throttle closed the throttle POS outright tells ECU car is in defined idle state. The throttle POS otherwise isn't really used. If you mean the problem is not apparent even when operating the throttle in the bad position range when cold, I would propose that it would be because car is not operating in close-loop, and using some assumed mix that is extra rich that makes up for what sounds like leaning out when high throttle in hot state and stumbling. I may be able to get you a courtesy old one. I won't need anything for it. Need to locate my old one somewhere. It works like new. If it is not the problem, send it to the other guy in the forum. Fact that it is happening at specific position, and fine on either side of the bad zone suggests that the variable resistor is screwed up in that sensor.
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    For folks with potential throttle POS sensor wear out issues, please note the way you use your cruise control. An underpowered car like the S-model causes the cruise control to constantly muck with the throttle. Is fine for carbureted cars, but for modern cars, the variable resistor gets worked in the same range and subject to wearing out big time. If you put your foot lightly on accelerator to be a follower to the what the cruise control is doing, you'll feel that the throttle is endlessly being adjusted even on relatively flat roads. Best to avoid constant speed driving with weak cars and do what truckers do. To reduce high combustion pressures and save your head gasket, best to build up speed before a hill, lose some speed deliberately going up the hill, and regain coming down the hill. This sort of control is possible only if you forget about the cruise control.
  • My daughters Saturn has all of a sudden become hard to start after is sits for a while. It turns over fine but will not start unless you press the gas pedal part way. It will then start, spit a little black smoke and be fine.

    Plugs, wires and ECT sensor have been replaced. Did not replace ECT connector wire though.

    Any ideas what I should check next?

    Can anyone tell me what the fuel pressure should be on this 1.9l engine?

    Thanks,
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