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Volvo S80 Starting Issues

jpark2jpark2 Posts: 2
I recently changed the transmission in my 1999 S-80 and since, the car is hard to start when it is hot. The only thing that was removed during the work was the electrical conector to the top of the transmission and the starter. Does anyone have an idea what would make the car do this?


  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    There are some non-model specific discussions on our Maintenance and Repair board that you may want to cross-post in. Specifically, I'd check out the discussion on start problems and/or the transmission one. If neither of those look right to you, there is the Quick, Technical questions topic.

    Meanwhile, we'll wait to see if anyone here can help.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi khz, welcome - I moved your post to a better place to get some help. Here's the link: khz, "Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems" #1382, 24 Jul 2007 4:23 pm.
  • So I just got this car 1 month ago (800 total miles now). This morning I go out into my garage to start it, and nothing. The key will not even eject. No power, no nothing. I call Volvo roadside, and in the meanwhile decide to pop open the hood, and possibly jump the car. I simply remove the battery cover, and wa la, the lights come on inside the car. I push the start button, and it turns right over.

    For lack of a better question, what the heck just happened?
  • I have an S80 2.9 L . After the car sits for a while, or over night, I need to crank the engine a few seconds, turn it off, and crank again to get it started. Had it to a Volvo dealer, no codes, they did a compression check on the cylinders, and cylinder #6 is a little low (125 psi).instead of 175 psi, like the other cylinders. They said I need a new engine for $9000.00. WTF. Well anyway, the car has 101,000 miles. Is there a check valve in the fuel pump to keep the fuel from bleeding back into the tank? I know most cars have them.
  • My S80 is having the same problem and the dealership told me that the fuel injectors all need to be replaced because they bleed off after sitting for a prolonged period. The repair comes to a grand total of about 1000 dollars. I have not found anyplace that I can get the in injectors cheaper than this and keep quality parts.
  • I have absolutely no confidence in any Volvo dealership I have encountered. (Only 2 in my area). One dealer charged me $1000.00 because my dash lights went out. They just kept replacing modules in the steering column, first the Steering wheel module, then the turn signal switch, then headlight switch, which was the problem. In the process, they broke the steering wheel housing, pinched the wiring harness to the buttons on the steering wheel, ie, cruise control, radio, etc, and when I picked up the car, there was grease all over the interior, steering wheel, headliner, etc. Volvo dealerships are butchers!, however, the can change oil. LOL
  • 88 bucks 7 yr warrenty
  • Hey are you still having this issue? Exact same thing with me - 2007 S80 3.2V6. 2 of out 10 times, the car locks up "immobilizer failure" and won't do *@&!. When I use a jumper pack - it starts right up. One dealer said it was a "starter module" pointing to the space where the electronic key goes - but I don't trust them. It is currently at a higher quality dealership and they are trying to troubleshoot.

    Let me know, don't know if this helps or not.
  • pjs69pjs69 Posts: 1
    ">link titleHi everyone, quick questions to anyone who may have some insite to this issue. I have a 07 S80 3.2L V6 Sedan, it has 16,000 miles on it and just a week ago it started making a bizzare noise after starting, for the first 3 mins or so when it's running, it makes a wrrr sound stops for 3 to 5 seconds then does it again. This is only on a cold start so first thing in the morning or after it's sits for about 7 or 8 hours. The car runs fine otherwise but the noise is strange seems to come from the back of the engine on the drivers side somewhere near the AC compressor.

    any input would be appriciated, I'm going to take it to the dealer however I dont want to underplay the issue and wait on something that may be more serious then I think. I do have a soundbit of the noise however can't seem to add it to my posting.
  • I have the same noise with my 2006 S80. I mentioned it to the Volvo Service people and they really didn't think much of it. As it has just started, I am not comfortable with ignoring it, especially since my warranty is nearly up. Any ideas?
  • shahe1shahe1 Posts: 2
    In the past year or so, my S80 has had this starting issue. It doesn’t matter if it’s a hot/cold day rain/dry etc. I’ll get in the car and it doesn’t start, everything else works, lights dash, radio etc. everything but the car.
    The past 4 times I’ve gotten out, locked the doors and walked away, then I get in around 10-15 minutes later it starts up as if nothing has happened
    The dealer had the car for 6 days and because it was starting with him, he couldn’t figure out the problem, I was told to bring it in when it doesn’t start (no kidding Sherlock)
    Am I nuts or has anyone else had this issue?
  • I've had that problem over 2 years, Volvo had the car for a month and could not figure it out.Probably Immobilizer issue. If you lock and unlock the car 5 times with the remote, it re-sets the immobilizer, see if that helps.
  • shahe1shahe1 Posts: 2
    thanks tombear
    i'm also thinking it's something to do with the key cylinder, tumbler might be wearing down
  • jhets80jhets80 Posts: 6
    Had this car from by brother and the car previously got issues. The car would just stop when running but this was fixed when he replaced the air filter tube because it was broken off and was losing air compression. then it used to have engine light on but after replacing the battery it's now just had the orange triangle light on. The battery is brand new but still sometimes won't start, especially in the morning but after 10-15 min then it starts again and once the engine warms up then there's no problem starting. My brother mention that the previous battery was fairly new but some how got drain after it was stuck for 5 days? Any suggestions what needed to done without spending alot of money, I'm afraid that dealer would charge me arm and leg if I take it there.

    I appreciate any suggestions.
  • jhets80jhets80 Posts: 6
    I have 2001 S80 and also having similar problem what did you do to fix the problem?

  • jhets80jhets80 Posts: 6
    Okay, I finally took the car in the dealer to check the engine light and starting issue but when I got to the dealer the engine light issue had disappear when the service consultant checked it. Then he recommended to do the 90,000 mile service on the car which cost $670. I agreed and also told them to change the sparkplug which my quote total came to $1000. The next day they said that I also need to replace the coil on top the spark plug because they were cracked and possibly causing the starting issue. The coil costed $99 each so now my total cost jumped to $1700 but got 10% discount and dropped to $1550 :( They haven't charged me about diagnozing the starting issue because it always starts when it was there and the engine service light didn't come on but they next day I took the car home the engine service light came back and would disappear in the morning and come back lit in late afternoon...then the car still would hesitate starting in the morning but lucky enough to still getting it started after couple crank. I was able to google how to reset the service engine light but I'm really concern about the cold starting issue, though the car run a lot smoother now....and I'm hesitant and taking it back to the dealer and get this my timing is due they said and it would cost $980????I'm getting poor.
  • tombeartombear Posts: 5
    Have a mechanic, (not the Volvo dealer) change the electrical cable from the starter going to the connector near the fuse box on the driver's side of the car.These cables go bad and cause interference on the electronics when trying to start the car.Just like standing under a high-tension power line, you can feel and hear the electrical current flowing. The starter draws a lot of current, causing this interference. Several people have had this issue, and changing this cable fixed them all, be careful, Volvo will want the replace your engine next for about $9500.00. Good Luck
  • jhets80jhets80 Posts: 6
    I stopped by at the dealer today and told them that I'm still having problem with the hard start and the service engine light, but then I managed to reset the service engine light but the hard start is what I'm concern of. The tech told me to bring the car in but I did not drove the volvo today and so, he suggested that he'll check the RPM sensor again if there are any metal shaving again which he did clean the last time and if there are any...that the fly wheel and the starter may need to be change which cost about $1400 for just the fly wheel alone$@#! Thank you for replying sooner before I get to go back to the dealer. I will try your suggestion first and will let you know if it works.
  • jhets80jhets80 Posts: 6
    Okay, I haven't got a chance to replace the cable yet. So far I was able to start the car by moving the gear to Nuetral and put it back to Park and try to start the car again and it seems to work for now. I park in a slight slope and I wonder if that has something to do with the flywheel the dealer had mention? But I was able to stop by at the dealer this week and showed them the service engine required light and said that the MAF sensor and the brake pedal sensor need to be change...I'm don't have the money to do this yet but I may just order the parts and do it myself. I also found a website that fixes the brake pedal sensor. Now what I'm looking for is a good scan tool that really tells you what are the things that needed to fix or replace.
  • I have a 2000 S80 3.2 and after starting the car I will a message in the message center telling me that the alarm has been triggered. The alarm never actually goes on but the message appears about every fourth time the car is started. Recently, after turning the ignition off and locking the car with the remote, the exterior lights start flashing (similar to the alarm being triggered) until the car is unlocked and then locked again. The horn does not sound as it would if the alarm was triggered.
    Has anyone ever experienced anything like this?
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