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Chrysler 300M Transmission Problems

I just purchased a 2001 300M with 57000 miles on it. I was driving it home thinking about how great it was running, shifting etc when the tranny disengaged. I could not do anything to get it back except that if I shut the car off and then turned it on again, I could crawl forward in drive as long as I did not go over about 1000 rpm. I lost reverse and all other gears. Engine codes P1684 and P0700. I have a hard time believing that the tranny went out at this mileage and wondered if anyone had had a similar problem. I should mention that this was the first drive of the car at a considerably higher altitude in case that has anything to do with it.
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Comments

  • I just had the same thing happen to me today!!! Someone told me that it might be the speed sensors...Have you had any luck on this problem???'

    Brenda
  • emmaremmar Posts: 3
    Well I have an answer but no luck involved except bad! - they checked the sensors and they are fine. I am now looking at having to rebuild the transmission.
  • I have an 01 300M at at 41,000 my transmission went out. Luckily since it was technically out of the 40,000 mile warranty I was able to get Chrysler to pay for the parts and I paid for the labor to get it rebuilt. Now at 151K it's starting to shift into neutral going down the road. It just started so I haven't been able to determine if there is a rhyme or reason but i'm afraid of what may lay ahead for my 300. I love the car and with the exception of the tranny I have had no problems.
  • emmaremmar Posts: 3
    When they rebuilt ours, they did say there were a lot of upgraded parts that they put in. I really hope that we don't have to go through this again!
  • The new one has lasted much longer than the factory one so that must be correct. I have also noticed my AM radio does not display the correct channel and occasionally the climate control goes plank for a few minutes. Nothing major, the transmission thing is my biggest concern right now. I have to pull over to the side of the road, stop for about 10 seconds and it shifts back into drive automatically. It seems like some sort of computer sensor (as I cross my fingers).
  • I have a 2000 chrysler 300m the transmission changes great does not slip etc but I have a clunking sound all the time I crawled under the car and found I had lot off movement where the half shaft goes on to the output shaft I replaced the halfshaft & the clunking is still there I have play on the output shaft.
    I spoke to a tranny shop & he said the whole tranny needs to come out & be rebuilt along with diferential as he says that is where my clunking is coming from

    Is it possible to change the diff bearing without removing the tranny from the car ?
  • alciealcie Posts: 3
    on my 2000 300m with 79000 miles, the transmission sticks in second gear. I can tell, because if I shift to auto-stick that's where it stays. The speedometer stays at "0" and the RPM's go way up. This lasts a few miles, and then it works okay again. Once lasted 1/2 an hour, going 40 mph all the way home. I took it to a shop (not a dealer) and after several days of investigation, they say it is electronic - "the wires are all messed up/corroded". It works now, but no telling when it's going to give out again.
    have you ever seen these symptoms before?
    (btw - my car also displays the infamous "300m light show").
  • I have had the same problem in the past with the speed sensor. My car would stay in second gear, my speedometer wouldnt move, and the car would turn off at high rpms. .. it was the speed sensor!
    now I am having problems.. I think it could be the tranny, I drive fine with any speed under 80miles an hour, then when I hit 80-85mph the engine light kicks in and the engine feels like it wants to stall shaking around...If any one can help me with some info of what might the problem be.
    thnx :shades:
  • loli6loli6 Posts: 1
    After reading through some of what has been posted I am convinced that Chrysler has a real problem on there hands.I own a 2004 last model of the 300M. It had 12K miles on it when I bought it. Very good at taking it in for updated services, etc. Last year "2007" is when I started having problems while it was still warrantee. Re-accuring problems with the surging of the engine as it shifts at even a low RPMs and then at 65 miles per hour, the RPMs would drop or go up. I also received an infamous 300M light show. Head lights/ dash lights flashing on and off day or night. Mostly when it was in the automatic switch mode. However the dome light also flashed on and off even when the lights were not on. and occasionally they will stay on. Another posting mentioned high alltitude might have played a part in the tranny problem. I also had more issues with higher climate areas as well. These problems have gone unsolvable by the dealer until the current visit to the dealer demanding to spend more time resolving this issue. I am currently having to rebuild the Transmission at $3200.00 and I have no warrantee to date. The lights still flicker, The engine has only 52,000.00 K miles on it. I am regreting the purchase of this car. and other unmentionables! L
  • alciealcie Posts: 3
    just to update the group - I finally took this into the dealer and told them I thought it was the sensor. They determined it was the wiring/computer, which was exactly what the original mechanic had told me. But the original mechanic couldn't fix it, being a computer. Chrysler dealer fixed it and I ended up paying around $600 for the deal, but now the car runs well.
    If only the hub caps/wheels didn't cause the tires to go flat (and the air conditioning fails even though I had it fixed 3 times in 3 months), I'd be a happy camper.
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    chrysler 300 m owners with 722.6 Mercedes transmissions the case connector to the transmission leaks it needs to be checked and replaced if leaking just a known problem heads up. this trans can cost well over 5k$ at the dealership to get replaced.
  • jamz39jamz39 Posts: 1
    All of a sudden my 300m downshifts hard when it hits 30-32 mph. replaced both speed sensors. Still have the problem. Any ideas.
  • bricadbricad Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    2002 300M--no check engine light on, auto transmission won't shift out of park into reverse or drive. Any ideas as to the cause??
  • how much was it to get the air conditioning fixed...my fans don't blow out the front airways and the heater don't work...

    "my hooptie rollin, tail pipe draggin, heater don't work and my old ladys naggin"
  • kkollioskkollios Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    2001 Chrysler 300 6 cyl Automatic 104000 miles

    When decelerating my car jolts then gets stuck in first gear. I turn it off then on and the problem goes away for a few miles. Our mechanic said the check engine light says" stuck in first gear". He flushed and conditioned the trans. For a few months now I have also been having problems with my interior and headlights flashing. Also the radio station presets change? new battery 1 month ago and problem still persists. Could these problems be related? Maybe fuses or electrical system or separate trans problem? Anyone ever hear of this?
  • We just took our 300M to the dealer after if was stuck in 2nd gear. They stated it was a transmission valve body problem. $775.00 later it is supposed to be fixed...
  • Have a 300M (2001) that has just stopped getting power to the wheels. Can shift into drive (from a stop and it will move but soon like it shifts itself into neutral....no go. Acts more like a control problem than a failed tranny. Car is sitting at my mechanic's lot waiting to be looked at. Don't want to trade trannies if that's not neccesary. Really love the car, hate to get rid of it for a lot of reasons,,,one is money...have very little now in this economy.
    Any thoughts at all for me and my mechanic??? Goldenhoard
  • that happened to me and i had the transmission replaced then the second one started to slip3 months later and i replaced the speed sensor and havent had a problem with it since. also they told me driving with the auto stick tears them up and i quit using it and havent had a problem since. now one of my 300's has 300,000miles and drives great still.
  • In 180000 miles my 2000 300m has beed good to me. But just yesterday with no warning the tranny started downshifting hard from 2nd to 1st. Also from a stop it wants to start in 2nd. When I try auto shift it wont stay in 1st at all, even at a stop, I try and try and it keeps popping into 2nd. Now going from 2,3,4 and back down 4,3,2 is smooth as always.
    I am VERY mechanical but trannys are complicated things that will have you chasing your tail. I tried to pull codes with the "key dance" and it seems to have no coes. (engine light is not on)
    any thoughts?
  • Same issue. But you should call the Dept. O Transportation. There number is 800 424 9393 and they can force them to do recall.
  • nixit1nixit1 Posts: 1
    My Chrysler 300m will not go into gear. It is automatic and it will not move into gear. any suggestions would be helpful!
  • burneyjburneyj Posts: 1
    When your transmission (shifter) won't shift out of park to reverse it's because the shifter cable is lose/ off line. You need a shifter cable not a transmission.
  • hns72022hns72022 Posts: 1
    This is happening to now on my 2002 Chrysler 300m. Hard downshift to 2nd and the flickering interior and dash lights. Never would have thought the two things to be related. Did the flushing of the transmission solve the problem of downshifting?
  • Ok so where is the speed sensor? I have a 01 300M and it will go into drive and then seconds later goes into what seems like neutral and if I give it some gas it goes back into drive again for a few more seconds, reverse does the same thing. is this a sensor or need tranny?
  • burneybburneyb Posts: 1
    It's neither it's just a shifter cable; believe it or not there is a belt call a shifter cable that allows you to shift from park, reverse, neutral to drive. Sometimes the shifter cable becomes damanged or loose if you spill soda or something into the area around your shifter.
  • what ? Huh? Why did you reply to my post. A cable has nothing to do with my issues?
  • bruhnskabruhnska Posts: 4
    In the summer of '10 I drove out from Michigan to Nevada in my '02 300M special. Ont he way back, 3 hours out of vegas my car went suddenly into 2nd gear and I could not get out. So I drove at 30 mph for a few miles to get to the next (luckily big) city in Utah. After spending 4 days there, the problem was fixed. It turned out to be the TCM. It was called safe mode as to why it stays in a low gear so as to prevent further damage to the tranny at higher speeds. We thought starting though the Grand Canyon had soemthing to do with it. After we were on our way the check engine light came on again but drove fine, the car was just not made to do that kind of travel I guess. I am also experiancing light flickering, even after not being touched in a few days, still trying to figure that out, I posted my problem as a reply in electrical.
  • bruhnskabruhnska Posts: 4
    Also called Limp-Mode
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited July 2011
    There are alot of people having very much the same problems with the transmission going into limp-in mode etc. The first thing to consider (seemingly unrelated) , is that the transmission relies upon all of the sensors that are on the engine as well , to determine where & when to shift. The transmission is electronically controlled , which means that if your engine is not running properly or your electricals are not in good condition - you might have transmission problems as a result. The first thing moreover to consider are the connections to the battery (source) , they should be free of corrosion & not original. If they are old or bad , intermittent signals are sent to the PDC (Power Distribution Center) & passed on to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) etc. , which can cause improper DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) as well. While all DTC's only point to the effected area - and never pinpoint the exact source for any code (according to the Chrysler Service Manuals) - even when using a DRB III testing unit. Even the DRB III cannot work correctly without a proper source battery & main connections (according to Chrysler & it's own manual).

    Things like , vacuum leaks in the engine - can cause late or hard downshifting where the engine RPM's are lower than normal , where the gears almost miss meshing (then they clunk) - because the transmission is still spinning faster than what the engine is (they are out of synch) - when the shift occurs , and while the sensors are no longer able to send a proper signal to the onboard electronics. So ... more than ever - your car's battery/cables & engine components must be in good condition to expect the transmission to work correctly. You must also , change the transmission filter & O-ring (that goes onto the valve body in the transmission oilpan) - just as you would for your engine , every 50,000 miles/77,000 km. They are not expensive.

    The primary cause of "check engine light" & other "flickering" of the instrument panel lights etc. - is caused by corroded aluminum battery post terminals & the "inline fuse link" on the positive battery cable. Which can be removed or replaced with a similar type fuse link (which is only a smaller portion of cable to disallow full current to overload the battery/PDC/PCM etc. combination) - and it can be discarded without any problem. After doing so - you will not have any instrument panel problems , or odd DTC's building up as a result of the intermittent power flow from the battery/alternator - charging system , etc. Otherwise , you could be replacing sensors until the wiring harness is capable of producing an increased efficiency within it's contents to make all sorts of DTC's or test findings/dashlights or symptoms - go away temporarily.

    Basically , these things work just like new spark plugs that still don't make the engine stop missing or hard to start - because of the fact that the spark plugs wires (or coil packs & connections) are faulty. But , changing the spark plug type or gap etc. , could produce some temporary results in these areas if you don't consider the power flow to the spark plugs. Obviously , once you replace the spark plug wires or coil packs etc. , and the problem is gone for a long period (with the new spark plugs) - you have solved the problem , and not just altered it.

    For example : If you were to remove an oxygen sensor from your exhaust , and you also had a faulty MAP sensor etc. as well , the electronics system can no longer calculate transmission & engine rpm's correctly - so "limp-in mode" is set as a result. Jumping to conclusions , with a bad battery/ terminals and cables , and/or engine component connections (ie: hoses), is the worst thing you can do.

    I have solved these problems on my 2002 300M Special , simply by ensuring the battery/cables & connections were good by replacing them with steel battery terminals & new cables. Aluminum is a poor conductor at best - and after years of exposure to the elements - they will show intermittent continuity or none at all in some places (whereas the cables may also produce these fluctuations full time as well) - due to inner corrosion or metal fatigue. Any on and off or up and down fluctuations in current flow can cause all sorts of sensor/computer problems , which the transmission relies upon. Any time you have a diagnosis of sensor problems , it's best to consider the power flow (and the fact that the vehicle is not in full operating conditions while it is checked at idle) , prior to replacing any. There are some mechanics who will inconsiderately replace any sensor that a tester tells them has a problem with voltage etc. This is like replacing your home PC , or it's components , when the wall plug or the main power cable is in terrible condition or slightly faulty (having been outside for 10 years). Today's cars are now effected by these intracacies.

    One sure way to test your battery posts/terminals & cables is to use a sensitive analog meter - and run the positive probe along the edges of surface , and note whether or not the meter needle swings from left to right while it is in a continuity mode. If it does at any point , you don't have constant continuity. As opposed to just setting the meter to the 50 volt range , and looking for 12 volts etc. , at any given single points. The connection should measure and have constant continuity at any point including the connections & surfaces. Inside an oxidized aluminum battery terminal clamp (where the connecting cables are soldered) - the cable is probably also oxidized (bad continuity). When NEW aluminum cables etc. are measured & tested - they will never show a loss of continuity. And if an analog tester can detect a fluctuation - then your car's computer will as well.
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