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I came in to local dealer for a state car inspection.I was told first that the car was too heavy for the tires that came with the car and I would need to replace all 4 tires.I had 19,000 miles on the car.When I questioned this, he changed the story to that the tires were not properly maintained.After questioning THIS STORY he decided that only 2 of the 4 tires needed replacing but he would have to keep an eye on the remaining 2 tires.
Has anyone else that is OLDER had a similar experience?
I have been using premium (91 octane here).
and it runs just fine. I don't see spending the money on high test when regular is what the car was designed for. Performance is fine as well.
I know that a lot of people think buying premium fuel is a waste, even if their engine requires premium. From my point of view, 600 gallons of fuel per year at 20 cents more per gallon is $120. So I think you should buy what makes sense for the cadillac. But pre-2000 model year cadillacs were supposed to get premium fuel only.
You'll likely not save any money afterall, my engineer friends tell me. Your mileage will also be degraded along with your performance, generally.
I still don't get the cheapskate logic though. I have friends who do it, my business partner does it in his Volvo, and I call him names too. I even have a friend with a 00 DeVille who does it. But, he proves my point. He's not a Cadillac man, he's really a Ford/Toyota guy, who happened to get a great deal on a used DeVille, and just can't bear to pay the extra .20 a gallon to feed it premium. Cheapskate. He should go back to his Toyota, he'd be more comfortable.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
minimum octane should be 87. For full performance, higher octane fuel may be used. For towing, higher octane is recomended.
So, yes one can used 87 octane (regular is 85 octane here). But to get the full 275 horsepower and 300 lb-ft of torque, premium fuel is probably needed. However, if you all are getting plenty of power from regular, why spend more? I am averaging about 24-26 in local driving, which is a mix of highway and city. Later this summer I plan to make a long trip to the west coast.
Anyone planning to experiment with regular and premium for fuel consumption differences probably should fill alternatly with each type several times keeping track of the mileage. If you used the on board computer (DIC), you should reset for each tankfull. Or else use the fuel used to compute the mileage.
Then one can use a statistical program to compute the statistical significance of the differences (if any). MRPP is a useful set of programs to do this (MultResponse Permutation Procedures for the uninitiated).
My wife wants a Deville and we have been looking at 2000 and 2001's. We can get them pretty cheap out here on the west coast and with some pretty low mileage.
I would appreciate your input on these cars. The good and the ugly. What kind of long term mileage you can expect that kind of thing. Major repair issues.
Thanks,
Patrick
The best part of these sleds is that they depreciate like a rock in the first 3 years, so finding a great car for a song is very possible.
Good luck!
As far as fuel consumpution goes, I get over 20 MPG in local driving (around 25 actually), but most of my driving is part highway. How bad your gas mileage gets will depend on how short your local trips are with a cold start up. Even in winter (temperature around 15 F), when I still lived in town, I got 18 MPG.
The big thing to watch for is coolant leaks. A leak in the wrong place will cause corrosion which may require an engine replacement if it goes on too long.
I guess torque steer is what you're used to. My Infiniti doesn't have severe torque steer, but you can sure tell it's FWD just with the differences in road surfaces as you accelerate, which is what I'm objecting to, given the choice. The DeVilles/Sevilles I've driven in recent years are smooth enough, but when you goose it, particularly making a turn in an intersection, you sure feel it.
The new STS with RWD should be a much more satisfactory car for handling.
Doors - key fits but is extremely difficult to turn. We have tried to replace the cylinders and locks - no luck. This happens in both doors.
Ignition - Intermittantly, you have to jiggle, push, pull, stand on, wait 20 minutes and try again - response varies before you can turn the key to turn the ignition off. Have never had trouble turning it on. Can these problems be related?
The car was given to us by my in-laws. One person owner. He had problems with the locks and no one was able to find the solution for him either. My son will start driving this soon and I want him to be able to lock the car - or I fear it will be stolen.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
I was fearing electrical, but will explore the key fit first.
Much easier to use the push button panel on the outside of door
to unlock. Must of been the plunger mechanism for the power locks
that made it hard to turn key.
Quite a pain ! Sure glad my 96 and later Caddies had the remote!
I would say your ignition key and/or switch in the column is getting worn out. Too bad you didn't have the key code. A locksmith could make ya a new key for it. That would be your best way out. Can you track the car back to the selling dealer?
I have had a few ignition switches stop working altogether (unable to turn) in some of my GM winter rats.
Problem is a 90 Cad has the "pellet" in the key. Pretty $pendy nowadays to have remade. I can just imagine how much it would cost to
replace ign. switch and key.
Any feedback from others who owned 97-99 Devilles and now own 2000 models or later will be greatly appreciated.
Lastly, there are all kinds of variables between the 98 and the 04, like weight, drag, tires, equipment changes, they may look alike, but they are very dissimilar cars, so it's very possible that your performance and mileage may vary.
My 90 with the 4.9? ran like a scalded dog and up to 100k plus troublefree miles. When I got my 96 with that 4.6 N-star that required premium fuel and was 250?hp vs.the 180?hp of the 90 I
felt CHEATED !
The 90 would "walk" my buddies 5.0 Mustang outta the hole and
down to the next stop light with the Bose playing and the AC on!
Also would BURN the rf Michelin to a cloud of smoke if not careful!
The 96 was a PIG off the light and the traction control was a PIA
till I found the disable button in the glove box.
It would do a minor burn out if pushed tho. It also served me well
to 100k miles till traded for my 02.
My 02 I only had for a few months because the "BOSS" said the dark
blue interior was too hot ! She picked it out tho.......
So I never had a chance to really pound on it..........
My 03 even with 275 hp seems no faster than the 96 with 250? hp.
Sure is nice to use any cheap pump gas tho. The 96 would buck, stall,
ping on anything but premium.
I assume its the nature of the beast esp. with the DOHC motors to
not hit the sweet spot in power till the RPMs are up there.
I liked the 90 the best outta all of them for power at any range!
All of them would cruise 80 mph or so easily all day long and
spank a beemer, benz, etc. on the street or hi-way with 20k change
in my pocket and never have spendy maint. visits at a dealer either!
But getting 20 mpg plus all day long in a full size v-8 powered
CADDY is better than a appliance cam-cord anyday !
All in all I have had NO regrets with any of my Caddy purchases.
It runs the same as the 96 or 03.
She wants a SUV now and likes that HUGE sunroof
on the Caddy SRX. She assumes that it is smaller than her Deville.thus easier to drive.
Another plus is she likes that you sit higher up than in the car and can see more easily plus the extra open space to haul her dog,gear and the grandkids around.
Hopefully she gets the V-8 N-star powered one !
My 90 had a 4.5 180 hp.
The 96 indeed did have 275. Same as my 03 !
But still the 90 had the best seat of the pants performance !
One thing I know, my supercharged 95 Riviera would always engage the traction control on icy roads when starting from a dead stop. My Seville does not unless I push too hard on the accelerator.