Just replaced the headlamps on my '01 DeVille and there is now a gap between the bottom of the headlamp and where it should meet the front bumper panel. Anyone know what I should use to seal that gap (clear silicone, caulking etc.)?
As for the other work I was doing on the Cadi- I saved +4k over shop costs by doing the work myself (Window regulator, Cam Sensor, MAF Sensor, Idle Air Control, Outer Tie Rods(2), Brakes and rotors all around and flushing the system, front hub assemblies & the EBCM). Two different estimates quoted me $4200 and $4500 and neither of these included the brake work (additional $700). The biggest portion was related to replacing the EBCM which the dealer part cost was $940 and nearly as much for labor- I was able to send the EBCM off to be re-built (only took two days) for $150 with a 5 year warranty (dealer part had a 1 year). In total, I spent $600 (excluding tools) and gained a lot of knowledge (thanks in part to feedback from you all on this site).
I'd like to especially thank Bolivar for your assistance through this process, your advice has been extremely helpful and I appreciated every bit of it.
I have a 98 Deville with 90,000 miles and I started to lose coolant, took it in to a dealer and they said it was a blown head gasket. I think you are right about needing a class action suit with Cadillac. All I ever read about the Northstar engine is that it is suppose to be the best, now at 90,000 the engine blows...that is not right. Anyone have any suggestions? It is a very expensive problem on a very expensive car!
Just wondering if replacing the valve gasket covers on my '01 DeVille (base) w/ 76,000mi on it is a job I can or should do myself, or if I should pay the $875 (including replacing all 8 spark plugs) is worth it? If it is a job I can do with my moderate DIY skill set does anyone have any tricks of the trade to share with me? Thanks in advance.
Just to keep everyone on this forum informed.... Back in time I've related the various repairs on my wife's 2005 Cadillac Deville, which now has a little less than 61,000 miles.
Just replaced the window regulator in the passenger window.
This now makes the 4th of 4 window regulators replaced in the last 20 months. Hopefully, with this one, there are now no more remaining to break.
Obviously a terrible design fault, and something that makes Cadillac a lot of money in replacement parts. And labor for your local dealer. The part is something like $250 or so.
What I understand, the failure is on a plastic cable that pulls the window up and down. Actually, it probably moves the 'X' shaped regulation skeleton. As I understand, the cable breaks where it is attached to a metal connector. Cable isn't replaceable, the whole regulator assembly is replaced. Guess we are lucky the motor isn't also part of this. I watched the parts man take forever finding the regulator to order. I asked if there was a problem, and he said he was looking to see if the motor was included. I said on the other 3 that failed, the motor wasn't included, just get a right front window regulator ordered in.
Oh, and looking at the receipt, it looks like something called a 'locking regulator' might have been replaced. I'm going to call and ask about this. The only problem I knew about was the lock/unlock button on the passenger door was 'slow'. Sometimes had to push multi times or hold it down. Only know this because I ride in the car mostly, and the wife has it programmed so the only door that opens when she puts it in park is the drivers door. Keeps the roving bad guys from jumping into her car when she stops it.... According to her.
Another $50 deductable for this/these repair/s. For all the things that have broken, I'm probably still underwater on this extended warranty deal...
WEll here is latest on my '05 Deville,with 82,000,1)rear brake line rusted out,parts & labor$455.,rf wheel bearing parts& labor $471., oil leak, fr. axle seal leaking $168. parts & labor. oil pan leak around the pan bolts,parts & labor332. my ext. warr. ended at 75k. ouch
I'm sorry to read that you have had so many difficulties with the window regulators in your Deville. Was all of this done with one of our dealerships? Please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com if you should have further difficulties with the window regulators.
In the recent past you have helped me out a lot with information regarding repairs to my '01 DeVille and I see that you're having some of the same issues I've had in the past. As far as the window regulators are concerned I too have replaced all regulators at least once & even twice on the rear passenger side window (for a total of five regulators). I was able to get the regulator for much cheaper on-line compared to dealer prices (believe I paid $65 brand new with motor as oppose to the $250 the dealer wanted). I was also able to complete the install myself in just over an hour (even the dealer claimed it was extensive). Send me a good email address and I'll forward you the step by step instructions with photos I used to replace the regulator(s). I know this is probably too little too late, but I have the information if you need it. SFC A.C
Sgt., I've not done any of the regulator replacements, as I noted, I've got an extended warranty with $50 deductible. I don't have much problem paying the $50 and letting them pay for it.
My extended warranty ends in June or so. I've already talked with the dealer that sold me the current one. They will sell another one, but it will be for $2,400 with a $200 deductible.
A $200 deductible for each repair is a little steep for me, especially considering how many things have been repaired on this car. And, even with all the repairs, with only a $50 deductible, the current extended warranty probably hasn't been a good deal, I probably haven't covered its cost.
So, when my current extended warranty ends, I'm probably going to get rid of this Deville. My wife still wants a Cadillac, and is now making noises about an Escalade, which I dis-favor even more than her Devilles we have owned in the past. I've proposed selling her Deville and my Corvette and buying a Cadillac CTS-V. This still gives her a Cadillac and me a killer fast car. But she thinks it's 'too small'. Loves her tanks.
And, to the GM rep that responded, I don't have any problem with the repairs as done. I do think Cadillac has long had a design problem with the regulator on its sedans. For years and years. And they knew about it and did nothing about it with a re-designed system. I've just read too much about regulator failures on the 1999 (whatever the years of the last Deville re-design) thru at least my year, 2005, having multiple, and early failure of the windows. And the cable that breaks not being changed or strengthened.
Also acone, I know that the regulator can be bought from several venders on eBay for about $45 dollars, without the motor.
I live in a small town. We lost our CAdillac dealership a couple of years ago. They just were not selling enough new cars for Cadillac to allow them to retain the dealership. I think they probably closed a lot of smaller Caddy dealership across the state. There may only be dealers in Okla City and Tulsa across the state. But since they still have the GM truck distributership, they can repair Cadillacs and honor the GMPP extended warranty I have. They cannot do new car warranty, but no problem with the extended warranty.
Good deal, just offering my two cents worth of assistance. BTW, what type of extended warranty coverage comes with a $200 deductible (seems extrmemly high to me)? SFC A.C
I looked yesterday and could not find my note about the warranty. It might still be a GMPP, what the current one is. Or not a top-line GMPP version. Note that this car, a 2005, is now 8 years old, based a build date of mid-2004. I've got to buy this new warranty at least one month before the current one runs out (in June, I think). The salesman pushed me hard to cancel the current one NOW, receiving some refund money and buying the new one. Of course giving him $2,400 and a fat commission right now. Kind of like 'Are you going to buy a car today?'.
A better approach probably would be to keep the $2,400 in my pocket, find a good independent mechanic for any future work. If future repairs start to approach $2,000, dump the car quickly. This would still be a money-saving option.
Bolivar, are you familiar with any of these other 3rd party warranty offers we see on TV? After completing a good amount of work on my '01 DeVille I think I might need to look into paying for a good warranty coverage myself. SFC A.C
I am trying to contact ACONES regarding 2005 Deville rear drivers side window regulator replacement and/or replacement of the motor. This was discussed previously in msg. 2607 dated Apr 28, 2012, to Boliver. Instructions were offered if one would provide their good email address. I would like to request instructions be emailed to Kay45@flightline.com, attn: Lecus. Thank you very much for your help.
Bolivar, Just an FYI i had a 99 with the same stupid window regulator issues.. I found a parts salvage site online and purchased the window motors, keeping the old regulators, drilled out the rivets and replaced the motors with motors from a Toyota Camry.. they fit right in.. and still worked after the car caught fire.. So i know its gotta be a Government Motors issue.. Aside from your windows issues..
Here is the list of my issues with mine before it caught fire.. 1. Replaced the power window motors after the dealer gave me an estimate of 1K dollars a window.. HA! No wonder they went out of business! 2. Replaced the exhaust with Flowmasters since the stock exhaust rotted off. 3. Replaced the thermostat twice (Yes i used the Tablets of conditioner) 4. Replaced the brakes 5. Replaced the torque converter 6. Replaced the Tires with Vogue Tyre's 7. Replaced the power seat motor and had the seat refilled with foam due to leaning 8. Replaced the wheel bearings 9. Replaced the Ball Joint bushings
At 71K miles the Car started to over heat. I was told that the head gasket was fine.. I never saw water in the Oil, or coolant.
10. I replaced the Radiator with a High Flow Dragster triple core aluminum radiator. 11. I added to the stock Fan, one that was 3050CFM 12. I hard wired the second Fan to the ignition switch. 13. I replaced the stock radio after it broke, and found out i had to rewire the alarm system. YAY for Great idea! Who ever thought this was a good idea should be slapped! 14. Replaced the head lights due to deterioration in the plastic which caused them to yellow badly.
After all the steps to make this car a joy, and i loved this car..
I traded in a 1999 Corolla with 325K miles for this car which had 58K miles on it when i bought it. The corolla had everything, all things worked, no issues EVER with anything in the 325K miles.. (exception of a clutch)
At 91K miles my Cadillac caught fire on the highway. I was trapped in the middle lane in NYC traffic, it was raining, and the dead of summer.. i had my fan on and watched the temp climb. Without a way to the side of the road i got out of the car.. and watched as the hood charred and the fire melted the plastic components..
91K miles, not 191K or 291K miles, No at 91K miles my Cadillac Caught FIRE.. I have since replaced it with a Toyota Sienna, which although not nearly as comfortable.. Everything works, and things that break don't have a dealership that costs two arms for part and both legs for service..
Bolivar, If i were you i would sell it, get a Lexus.. They are as such that you will pay it off and drive it another 200K miles before you have to replace a single thing..
I've got an extended warranty on the 2005. Each of the 4 motors cost me the $50 deductible on the warranty.
I've replaced the driver power window motor on a 97 Deville. Just get the door panel off and it's right there. Take 3 bolts out, I think, and replaced it with a Siemens brand motor bought at a parts house.
I don't know about a rear one. Take the door panel off and look around.
If I'm replying to the wrong person about the window motor, sorry, but just read about it here.
Right rear shock started leaking oil. I thought it was brake fluid, so it being the shock was a easier problem than a caliper, or whatever.
I had the dealer look at it when the last window regulator was being installed, and they told me it was a shock. Told me it was $375 for the pair - I don't know if this was just parts or parts and labor.
This is just the 'regular' air self leveling shocks. Not the ones with electronic controls embedded. I found on Amazon, $61.30, including shipping, for the PAIR, Monroe brand. The upper tube is a little bigger than stock, but it is not hitting on anything, the air nozzle was exactly the same - overall a perfect fit.
I did the replacement myself. The air line just clips on and off. Top is inside the trunk behind the carpet. Bottom is two bolts. Jacked up the car, got a bottle jack to raise the rear suspension a little so the shock was not 'loaded' and this was about the simplest shock replace I've done. Did one side at a time, didn't even get both wheels off the ground at the same time.
Shocks are maintenance items, so it was not covered under my extended warranty.
hi, bolivar, i also have '05 deville 85K on it. no issues till this month 1)rusty brankeline (rear) rf wheel bearing, oil pan leak, lf axle cover?...tot. to dealer $1,800. have a feeling it is only the beginning, my dealer over NH has a real nice '08 DTS 38k. miles loaded for $24k....what are your thoughts? thanks. Chris in Maine.
In general, if you want to stay with a Deville type, I would try to move up a couple more years. Get something still in the 4 years/50000 warranty. About $28,000, hopefully less, maybe even down to $22,000. Then buy a GMPP warranty for 4 or 5 more years a few months before the factory one expires. What you will find are usually rentals or 3 year lease returns. A 'base' Deville/DTS has a lot of stuff on it, but even rentals are now being nicely equipped. It going to cost you about $2,500 or so for a GMPP. So, for around $30,000 (as I said, hopefully less) you will get a 3 year old Deville/DTS and be covered for everything except 'maintenace items and trim) for 4,5, or 6 years, with maybe just a $50/$100 deductible for repairs. And, if you read back thru this topic, our 2005 has had several repairs.
I'm in Okla, but here is where I bought my GMPP, phone calls and credit card charge. Black Pontiac Cadillac, Our 48th Year 3929 Admiral Peary Highway Ebensburg, Pa. 15931 877-472-9550 Toll Free 814-472-9550 Local 814-472-4741 Fax allen@gmoutlet.com
These guys beat the pricing locally by several hundreds of dollars. And it's the same GMPP sold anywhere, your car's VIN is on it and any GM dealership will do the work and you pay a deductible, if you don't buy a $0 deductible. I can extend the GMPP on the 2005, but it will cost a lot, and that's for a $200 deductible. Even though I'm not sure the repairs on our 2005 over the past 4 years have exceeded the price I had to pay, I felt better about owning the Deville. Otherwise owning one scares me.
I can find the price of the parts put on, via part numbers listed on the work order, but I don't know the labor cost for a warranty repair. Dealer went into the Heat/AC three times. I think they replaced three servo/motors in there and also replaced the dash control unit. I don't remember exactly, but these parts were about $750-1000 or so. Also all 4 window regulars were replaced. Both coil packs, at different times. The front collision/air bag sensor. Maybe something else, don't remember right now.
I just have to compare the Cadallics we've owned with the Hondas we've owned. Had a 2002 Accord for about 7 years and 45,000 miles. Put a power lock module on it (under warranty) because it decided to lock itself whenever it wanted to. Have a 2006 Ridgeline truck with about 43,000 miles. It has never been back for a repair.
I had a 94 Ford Ranger truck that I loved. Owned it from 1997 til about 2005, with about 70,000 miles. It had a few things fail on it, but overall I considered these maintanence, with some things failing because of old age rather that wear and tear. Radiator leaked, front brake rotors warped, radio speakers blew out, Plug wires and plugs, and the strange suspension set up had a large rubber biscuit thing wear and caused squeaks/groans/etc. I repaired all of these myself with parts from local parts places. After reading online about the process, the suspension was not very tough. Just had to get a large socket and box end wrench and a cheater bar to break loose and retighten a couple of nuts that were about 150 and 200 foot-pounds of torque. The coil spring came out without a special tool, and didn't bounce around my garage or off my head.
Compared to the list of things on the 3 Devilles, these other cars had nothing much fail.
My apologies for being so extremely late with this reply, I have not been on here in a while. Not sure if you still need the instructions but I will be forwarding them to your email shortly. AC
I am having a problem sending this due to the file size. Once I get this other program downloaded that will send files in excess of 2G I'll get to you. Once again, sorry for the late response.
Today I'm going to my local Cadillac dealer to have my 3rd window regulator replaced since March 2012 at a cost of nearly $500.00 each! I purchased this car in August of 2011 so I don't know how many times they have already been replaced. According to all the info i've read and been told, this is a very common problem with Devilles from pre 2000 thru at least 2005. Cadillac is well aware of this issue so I'm perplexed as to why there hasn't been a recall and a fix.
My issue with this problem is not just about the cost or frequency but rather the Safety issue. This always seems to happen in late evening when i'm nearly 100 miles from home and, it happens without any warning. I'm afraid to go on a trip or even be out late at night for fear I could be attacked, robbed or whatever. This is indeed a very dangerous safety issue. GM has the ability to correct the design flaw of having plastic connected to metal so this does not happen again ever. Please GM, do something before someone gets hurt. (judylee13, nashville, tn, 2005 cadillac deville)
We're sorry that you've had to have these repairs done three times over the course of the year. How did everything go with your dealership this afternoon? If we can look into anything for you, please send us an email at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (including your name and your Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership).
As mentioned above I like to know what this Color Black Materail is made of and how to treat it care for it to keep it looking like new"? Also goes down on both back doors edges. I been told by the mechnic and fellow I purchased from the 1/4 black roof shell is made of fiberglass, but he also not sure what the material which to me is like materail simular to that of convertable which I don't know what is called or how to keep that like new, My black 1/4 top roof is in new like condition, goes with the black leather interior and even leather steering wheel. car loaded with all kinds of features. I just had the car detailed. even them guys not sure what is mated of , just said washed liked rest of car, I want to know if there is anything I should use to care for this section on care to keep like new? purhaps there are some products out there to protect it from sun and weather, I don't want ton see it fade or weather cause lack of using some product. classic car owners with this materal must use some thing to keep like new condition I would think.
Well, I don't think a 1/4 roof is anything 'stock'. This was added by some after-market outfit. All the 'vinyl roofs' on later model Cadillacs are after-market, these do not come as a Cadillac 'stock' item. I would guess the material is somewhat like all 'vinyl' roof material, and cleaners and 'dressings' found in auto part houses could be used.
If you are spending that much for a regulator, then you are getting jerked. I bought my drivers side regulator with motor for 36 bucks brand new on eBay over 2 years ago, took it over to pep-boys and for about $40 they installed it. So, I got everything fixed for under $100 and for the past two years I have had no problems and I use the regulator several times a day. Stay away from the dealers, unless you have a power train warranty that covers all repairs for $0. Only a fool goes to a dealer for out of pocket repairs. :P
This is a very sad state of affairs. Cadillac stopped making the Full Size American Luxury Car that has a V8.
The last Full Size Caddy was the 2011 DTS (Deville Touring Sadan). Now they only make these cheezy small euro looking sports trash, i.e CTS, XTS, ATS, they may say Cadillac. But, they are not Caddies, too small and they look like hell!
GM must be out of their minds to take the Deville/DTS off their lineup. The DTS was their flagship car. Now the American Dream is gone. Even Lincoln took the Towncar off their lineup.
I belong to several large Cadillac forums and 1000's upon 1000's of Caddy lovers are sick and heartbroken over the end of Cadillac as we once knew it. When you saw a Caddy driving down the street, you could see it was a Caddy a mile away. All these new cars that Cadillac is making look like every other car. How can a limo be made and feel roomy if it's an XTS, etc;?
I have an 01' Deville that I try to keep in the best condition possible, I even put a brand new tranny into it. There is nothing left that is large, plush, powerful and comfortable like a Deville...NOTHING!
So, when I'm forced to get a "new" Caddy, it will be a 2011 DTS. But after that, then what? GM made a huge mistake taking the DTS off their lineup. So, that's it folks, Cadillac threw in the towel and are just making cars, not CADDIES.
So, take good care of your DTS/Deville. Everything else they make is garbage, I'm sure millions will agree. If GM did some real research, they would find they made a horrible mistake by removing the Deville.
Hi All, I bought 2003 cadilac DTS from Japan, but the info screen in the dashboard is in Japanese, how do i change to English!, the navigation screen is changed to crap one, does not work with the steering commands, like volume ,etc. I thought i can change from the navigation screen but it is not OEM, help how can i do it without it !
have a '05 deville with 95K. has always been maintained @dealer. had service (LOF) and front brake pads installed 2 wks. ago...today driving 35mph the "ser. eng. soon" light came on engine hesitated for a second, i sped up and @ 42mph. the transmission made a noticale shift. that i have never had before (tranny was always smmoth as silk). Light still on and not. shift @42mph. Taking back to dealer nxt. wk. could this big a big tranny issue??? $$?
got my answer today.two codes came up at dealership 1)TCC solenoid not working. 2)clutch pressure control solenoid not working. bottom line parts and Labor $985., orig. was $1285, spoke with ser. mgr. , review ed my history of service business with dealership and dropped price (waived 2 hrs. of labor time. I have now spend $1292. ytd on vehicle, am wondering if it is time to bail out, but I really like the vehicle?
I know how disheartening vehicle repairs can be. It looks like the dealer handled the situation suitably, and I am happy that they did acknowledge your customer loyalty when considering your final repair costs. We are here if you have any vehicle issues or concerns in the future-- please reach out to us.
latest issue, after transmission porblem in apr. (2 solenoids repl.), have 105k on deville and noise underneath right side a clunking sound when you slow down then give it the gas, doesn't happen all the time.//new tranny issue?? driveshaft???? motor mount.??? no one wants to say!. have not taken it to deaer. :mad:
Hey guys, I have a 1995 Cadillac DeVille and my a/c blower motor will not stop running. It has killed my battery 2 times. I have to keep it unplugged until I need it and it only blows cold air on high through the dash to defrost the windshield. What could this be so I can have air flowing again?
Comments
Try CaddyDaddy.com- good luck with the restoration project.
SFC A.C
As for the other work I was doing on the Cadi- I saved +4k over shop costs by doing the work myself (Window regulator, Cam Sensor, MAF Sensor, Idle Air Control, Outer Tie Rods(2), Brakes and rotors all around and flushing the system, front hub assemblies & the EBCM). Two different estimates quoted me $4200 and $4500 and neither of these included the brake work (additional $700). The biggest portion was related to replacing the EBCM which the dealer part cost was $940 and nearly as much for labor- I was able to send the EBCM off to be re-built (only took two days) for $150 with a 5 year warranty (dealer part had a 1 year). In total, I spent $600 (excluding tools) and gained a lot of knowledge (thanks in part to feedback from you all on this site).
I'd like to especially thank Bolivar for your assistance through this process, your advice has been extremely helpful and I appreciated every bit of it.
SFC A.C
SFC A.C
Why are you replacing the valve cover gaskets? I've not heard much of anyone having leaks there....
Just replaced the window regulator in the passenger window.
This now makes the 4th of 4 window regulators replaced in the last 20 months. Hopefully, with this one, there are now no more remaining to break.
Obviously a terrible design fault, and something that makes Cadillac a lot of money in replacement parts. And labor for your local dealer. The part is something like $250 or so.
What I understand, the failure is on a plastic cable that pulls the window up and down. Actually, it probably moves the 'X' shaped regulation skeleton. As I understand, the cable breaks where it is attached to a metal connector. Cable isn't replaceable, the whole regulator assembly is replaced. Guess we are lucky the motor isn't also part of this. I watched the parts man take forever finding the regulator to order. I asked if there was a problem, and he said he was looking to see if the motor was included. I said on the other 3 that failed, the motor wasn't included, just get a right front window regulator ordered in.
Oh, and looking at the receipt, it looks like something called a 'locking regulator' might have been replaced. I'm going to call and ask about this. The only problem I knew about was the lock/unlock button on the passenger door was 'slow'. Sometimes had to push multi times or hold it down. Only know this because I ride in the car mostly, and the wife has it programmed so the only door that opens when she puts it in park is the drivers door. Keeps the roving bad guys from jumping into her car when she stops it.... According to her.
Another $50 deductable for this/these repair/s. For all the things that have broken, I'm probably still underwater on this extended warranty deal...
I'm sorry to read that you have had so many difficulties with the window regulators in your Deville. Was all of this done with one of our dealerships? Please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com if you should have further difficulties with the window regulators.
All the best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
All the best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
In the recent past you have helped me out a lot with information regarding repairs to my '01 DeVille and I see that you're having some of the same issues I've had in the past. As far as the window regulators are concerned I too have replaced all regulators at least once & even twice on the rear passenger side window (for a total of five regulators). I was able to get the regulator for much cheaper on-line compared to dealer prices (believe I paid $65 brand new with motor as oppose to the $250 the dealer wanted). I was also able to complete the install myself in just over an hour (even the dealer claimed it was extensive). Send me a good email address and I'll forward you the step by step instructions with photos I used to replace the regulator(s). I know this is probably too little too late, but I have the information if you need it. SFC A.C
My extended warranty ends in June or so. I've already talked with the dealer that sold me the current one. They will sell another one, but it will be for $2,400 with a $200 deductible.
A $200 deductible for each repair is a little steep for me, especially considering how many things have been repaired on this car. And, even with all the repairs, with only a $50 deductible, the current extended warranty probably hasn't been a good deal, I probably haven't covered its cost.
So, when my current extended warranty ends, I'm probably going to get rid of this Deville. My wife still wants a Cadillac, and is now making noises about an Escalade, which I dis-favor even more than her Devilles we have owned in the past. I've proposed selling her Deville and my Corvette and buying a Cadillac CTS-V. This still gives her a Cadillac and me a killer fast car. But she thinks it's 'too small'. Loves her tanks.
And, to the GM rep that responded, I don't have any problem with the repairs as done. I do think Cadillac has long had a design problem with the regulator on its sedans. For years and years. And they knew about it and did nothing about it with a re-designed system. I've just read too much about regulator failures on the 1999 (whatever the years of the last Deville re-design) thru at least my year, 2005, having multiple, and early failure of the windows. And the cable that breaks not being changed or strengthened.
Also acone, I know that the regulator can be bought from several venders on eBay for about $45 dollars, without the motor.
I live in a small town. We lost our CAdillac dealership a couple of years ago. They just were not selling enough new cars for Cadillac to allow them to retain the dealership. I think they probably closed a lot of smaller Caddy dealership across the state. There may only be dealers in Okla City and Tulsa across the state. But since they still have the GM truck distributership, they can repair Cadillacs and honor the GMPP extended warranty I have. They cannot do new car warranty, but no problem with the extended warranty.
A better approach probably would be to keep the $2,400 in my pocket, find a good independent mechanic for any future work. If future repairs start to approach $2,000, dump the car quickly. This would still be a money-saving option.
Just an FYI i had a 99 with the same stupid window regulator issues.. I found a parts salvage site online and purchased the window motors, keeping the old regulators, drilled out the rivets and replaced the motors with motors from a Toyota Camry.. they fit right in.. and still worked after the car caught fire.. So i know its gotta be a Government Motors issue..
Aside from your windows issues..
Here is the list of my issues with mine before it caught fire..
1. Replaced the power window motors after the dealer gave me an estimate of 1K dollars a window.. HA! No wonder they went out of business!
2. Replaced the exhaust with Flowmasters since the stock exhaust rotted off.
3. Replaced the thermostat twice (Yes i used the Tablets of conditioner)
4. Replaced the brakes
5. Replaced the torque converter
6. Replaced the Tires with Vogue Tyre's
7. Replaced the power seat motor and had the seat refilled with foam due to leaning
8. Replaced the wheel bearings
9. Replaced the Ball Joint bushings
At 71K miles the Car started to over heat. I was told that the head gasket was fine.. I never saw water in the Oil, or coolant.
10. I replaced the Radiator with a High Flow Dragster triple core aluminum radiator.
11. I added to the stock Fan, one that was 3050CFM
12. I hard wired the second Fan to the ignition switch.
13. I replaced the stock radio after it broke, and found out i had to rewire the alarm system. YAY for Great idea! Who ever thought this was a good idea should be slapped!
14. Replaced the head lights due to deterioration in the plastic which caused them to yellow badly.
After all the steps to make this car a joy, and i loved this car..
I traded in a 1999 Corolla with 325K miles for this car which had 58K miles on it when i bought it. The corolla had everything, all things worked, no issues EVER with anything in the 325K miles.. (exception of a clutch)
At 91K miles my Cadillac caught fire on the highway. I was trapped in the middle lane in NYC traffic, it was raining, and the dead of summer.. i had my fan on and watched the temp climb. Without a way to the side of the road i got out of the car.. and watched as the hood charred and the fire melted the plastic components..
91K miles, not 191K or 291K miles, No at 91K miles my Cadillac Caught FIRE.. I have since replaced it with a Toyota Sienna, which although not nearly as comfortable.. Everything works, and things that break don't have a dealership that costs two arms for part and both legs for service..
Bolivar,
If i were you i would sell it, get a Lexus.. They are as such that you will pay it off and drive it another 200K miles before you have to replace a single thing..
I've replaced the driver power window motor on a 97 Deville. Just get the door panel off and it's right there. Take 3 bolts out, I think, and replaced it with a Siemens brand motor bought at a parts house.
I don't know about a rear one. Take the door panel off and look around.
If I'm replying to the wrong person about the window motor, sorry, but just read about it here.
Right rear shock started leaking oil. I thought it was brake fluid, so it being the shock was a easier problem than a caliper, or whatever.
I had the dealer look at it when the last window regulator was being installed, and they told me it was a shock. Told me it was $375 for the pair - I don't know if this was just parts or parts and labor.
This is just the 'regular' air self leveling shocks. Not the ones with electronic controls embedded. I found on Amazon, $61.30, including shipping, for the PAIR, Monroe brand. The upper tube is a little bigger than stock, but it is not hitting on anything, the air nozzle was exactly the same - overall a perfect fit.
I did the replacement myself. The air line just clips on and off. Top is inside the trunk behind the carpet. Bottom is two bolts. Jacked up the car, got a bottle jack to raise the rear suspension a little so the shock was not 'loaded' and this was about the simplest shock replace I've done. Did one side at a time, didn't even get both wheels off the ground at the same time.
Shocks are maintenance items, so it was not covered under my extended warranty.
Latest, after all 4 window regulators being replaced in the last 18 months, the left rear window again stopped working.
I was hoping for a lose connector from the previous repair.
But this time it was the electronic 'module' in the door. I think the electronics is needed for the auto-down feature on a window.
Another $50 deductible and it's fixed. Warranty expired last of July. This car is needing to go away after that.
I'm in Okla, but here is where I bought my GMPP, phone calls and credit card charge.
Black Pontiac Cadillac, Our 48th Year
3929 Admiral Peary Highway
Ebensburg, Pa. 15931
877-472-9550 Toll Free
814-472-9550 Local
814-472-4741 Fax
allen@gmoutlet.com
These guys beat the pricing locally by several hundreds of dollars. And it's the same GMPP sold anywhere, your car's VIN is on it and any GM dealership will do the work and you pay a deductible, if you don't buy a $0 deductible. I can extend the GMPP on the 2005, but it will cost a lot, and that's for a $200 deductible. Even though I'm not sure the repairs on our 2005 over the past 4 years have exceeded the price I had to pay, I felt better about owning the Deville. Otherwise owning one scares me.
I can find the price of the parts put on, via part numbers listed on the work order, but I don't know the labor cost for a warranty repair. Dealer went into the Heat/AC three times. I think they replaced three servo/motors in there and also replaced the dash control unit. I don't remember exactly, but these parts were about $750-1000 or so. Also all 4 window regulars were replaced. Both coil packs, at different times. The front collision/air bag sensor. Maybe something else, don't remember right now.
I had a 94 Ford Ranger truck that I loved. Owned it from 1997 til about 2005, with about 70,000 miles. It had a few things fail on it, but overall I considered these maintanence, with some things failing because of old age rather that wear and tear. Radiator leaked, front brake rotors warped, radio speakers blew out, Plug wires and plugs, and the strange suspension set up had a large rubber biscuit thing wear and caused squeaks/groans/etc. I repaired all of these myself with parts from local parts places. After reading online about the process, the suspension was not very tough. Just had to get a large socket and box end wrench and a cheater bar to break loose and retighten a couple of nuts that were about 150 and 200 foot-pounds of torque. The coil spring came out without a special tool, and didn't bounce around my garage or off my head.
Compared to the list of things on the 3 Devilles, these other cars had nothing much fail.
My issue with this problem is not just about the cost or frequency but rather the Safety issue. This always seems to happen in late evening when i'm nearly 100 miles from home and, it happens without any warning. I'm afraid to go on a trip or even be out late at night for fear I could be attacked, robbed or whatever. This is indeed a very dangerous safety issue. GM has the ability to correct the design flaw of having plastic connected to metal so this does not happen again ever. Please GM, do something before someone gets hurt. (judylee13, nashville, tn, 2005 cadillac deville)
We're sorry that you've had to have these repairs done three times over the course of the year. How did everything go with your dealership this afternoon? If we can look into anything for you, please send us an email at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (including your name and your Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
My black 1/4 top roof is in new like condition, goes with the black leather interior and even leather steering wheel. car loaded with all kinds of features. I just had the car detailed. even them guys not sure what is mated of , just said washed liked rest of car, I want to know if there is anything I should use to care for this section on care to keep like new? purhaps there are some products out there to protect it from sun and weather, I don't want ton see it fade or weather cause lack of using some product. classic car owners with this materal must use some thing to keep like new condition I would think.
:P
The last Full Size Caddy was the 2011 DTS (Deville Touring Sadan). Now they only make these cheezy small euro looking sports trash, i.e CTS, XTS, ATS, they may say Cadillac. But, they are not Caddies, too small and they look like hell!
GM must be out of their minds to take the Deville/DTS off their lineup. The DTS was their flagship car. Now the American Dream is gone. Even Lincoln took the Towncar off their lineup.
I belong to several large Cadillac forums and 1000's upon 1000's of Caddy lovers are sick and heartbroken over the end of Cadillac as we once knew it. When you saw a Caddy driving down the street, you could see it was a Caddy a mile away. All these new cars that Cadillac is making look like every other car. How can a limo be made and feel roomy if it's an XTS, etc;?
I have an 01' Deville that I try to keep in the best condition possible, I even put a brand new tranny into it. There is nothing left that is large, plush, powerful and comfortable like a Deville...NOTHING!
So, when I'm forced to get a "new" Caddy, it will be a 2011 DTS. But after that, then what? GM made a huge mistake taking the DTS off their lineup. So, that's it folks, Cadillac threw in the towel and are just making cars, not CADDIES.
So, take good care of your DTS/Deville. Everything else they make is garbage, I'm sure millions will agree. If GM did some real research, they would find they made a horrible mistake by removing the Deville.
I know how disheartening vehicle repairs can be. It looks like the dealer handled the situation suitably, and I am happy that they did acknowledge your customer loyalty when considering your final repair costs. We are here if you have any vehicle issues or concerns in the future-- please reach out to us.
Kind Regards
Amber N.
GM Customer Care
I have a 1995 Cadillac DeVille and my a/c blower motor will not stop running. It has killed my battery 2 times. I have to keep it unplugged until I need it and it only blows cold air on high through the dash to defrost the windshield. What could this be so I can have air flowing again?