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Cadillac DeVille



  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I have looked back through the posts to refresh my memory of your cruise control problems. You are coming up on 6 months since this problem was related here. I note that this was a "used" car when you bought it. I will suggest that probably the previous owner dumped it because the cruise control did not work and perhaps was not fixable...


    Unless this was program car...
  • I thought that Cruise didn't work under 45 mpg -at least that's the way it used to be. I've sometimes had better luck by turning cruise off then on and trying again. If it drops a couple of miles before it catches it is easy to hit the resume a couple of times to boost the speed up. I guess even an inaccurate cruise control is better than no cruise control at all.
  • I bought the car with 14,000 miles on it. Was previously a rental fleet car. With the exception of this one problem has performed well and is in excellent condition . The idea of changing the switches on the steering wheel seems like the next logical step. I sense that the problem can be corrected but don't have the technical knowledge to know for sure. Since the car is still under warranty might be subject to lemon laws. The dealership is aware that I need more done to correct the problem. I assume that as long as I bring it in well in advance of warranty expiration (July 2007) they will cover the repair. I appreciate the fact that you looked over the old posts on this sight in preparing your replies. Thanks very much for your continuing interest and will post the resolution of this when I take the car in to the dealership again.
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    Did your servicing dealer offer you a free loaner?


    Mine did for the emission control recall/check my cruise again deal.


    I asked for the "fat daddy" CTS V that has been sitting since March ! Of course all hopes dashed and was offered just about any used car on the lot!


    Since the weather has been miserable here in NY I declined and drove my 4x4 instead !

    Let the "boss" suffer and driver our Escort winter rat !!!!.......LOL !
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    It really is not your problem to figure out what is wrong with the cruise control, that is the service departments job. All you need to do is to understand that something is not working right and explain clearly to the service manager what is wrong.


    I think that there is some problem in transmitting the signal from the buttons on the steering wheel to the cruise control module. Perhaps the service manager needs to drive the car a few days until he experiences the problem.
  • Your logic and reasoning is sound. The weather here has been cold with snow and freezing rain so I have waited to go in. It is a forty mile trip to the closest Cadillac dealership. I agree that it is their job to figure out what is wrong with the cruise system. They have offered me a loaner car if they need to keep the car overnight or longer. Many thanks for your input and advice.
  • Yes was offered a free loaner. I asked for a CTS,

    the customer relations person said they would try to oblige. The weather here has been cold and wet as is in your area so have not gone in yet.
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    HEY ALL!.....We Have a new member called Caddy Mike around here who has 2 Deville ragtops !


    Sent him this way "home" !!!


    I wanna hear about those drop top Caddies......
  • fmilymnfmilymn Posts: 13
    93 Deville, 116,000 mi, Lt front wheel bearing and front struts need replaced (light on too). Rear shocks replaced in 2002. Only 1 other problem ........ LOW HEAT (door/flap closing properly) only like 25% of what it should be. I believe it may be caused by the "horse pills" the repair manual calls for to add in the coolant, something to do with the aluminum engine. Purchased pills from the dealer. Had to crush the things to a powder to add them. I believe heater core is clogged. It's not exactly easy to just pull out. Water flows into it and out of it fine. Both hoses get HOT. Kind of a head scratcher. Bought from an estate sale in the summer. Changed fluid then. Not sure if problem existed before my purchase. Anyone else have an idea of what may cause my no heat condition? The blower works. Fantastic car otherwise!
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    If you crushed the pills and added them to the lower rad. hose that prob. is not your problem.


    Esp. if both the hoses are hot you gotta figure the core is not plugged..........

    Is your heater door stuck ? Does air come out the defroster, floor, dash vents ? Can you hear the door moving ?


    The front struts are $pendy and I assume you have the service ride control message......

    My front struts went out on my 96 Deville....$2500 fix at the dealer.........

    Bye Bye 96 and hello new 03 Deville...........


    I used a "cob" fix with a 50 ohm resistor wired into the plug on each of the strut towers to fool the computer and turn off the service msg.

    Then dumped the car !!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I found this info. on one of the cadillacforums


    BTW: There are now aftermarket passive struts to replace the factory front electric ones for 1/3 the price.
  • fmilymnfmilymn Posts: 13
    Thanks for the resistor and after market tips boomer! How exactly would one go about the cob fix? Sure is irritating. $2500 is probably the trade in value on this car! I know they wanted $100 at the junk yard for a different headlight. Needless to say clear silicone fixed that problem.


    I added the powder slowly through the filler hole before all the fluid was added. All the settings work fine and the door checks out fine. I have a low heat condition and was guessing the core is partially clogged......if that's possible. Guess there's only one way to find out. Have to wait for a decent day when time permits. I'm fixen to buy a different car and let my boy have this when he turns 16. It's in no hurry. He turned 12 in Dec.. It'll be a great back up ride until then.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I assume that this fix is for the computerized suspension that is on the Deville Concour (now DTS). The base Deville has conventional stuts shock absorbers I think.
  • Have a 97 w/74K on it. Rpm fluctuates 175-250

    at idle and ALL speeds.Dealer test drove-did it 1-2 times.but NOT at the shop.Checked fuel pressure-40LB Ok. I put two bottles of injector cleaner in

    have driven about 60-70 mileseems some better but,just did it again as I came home.Any ideas as to what it may be..?? Have chg'd the fuel filter

    about 3 days ago-no help..Dealer says cause no check eng. light on = the scope will not show anything ??


                                  Yks, Deadeye
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    No check engine or SES light ?

    Did the dealer hook it up to the computer?

    Intermitent missing.........


    You do know that there is a procedure outlined in your owners manual to check your car for any codes that are stored or current?


    When was the last time you had new plugs or wires?

    Is the weather in your area rainy, wet, cold ?
  • TKS for comeback...


    dealer did NOT hookup--Said "If Check Eng light was not on-hookup would show 0"


    Will check manual for codes....


    No plugs or wires.(74K mi.) manual shows 100K


    In NW Fla. Warm-Humid--No rain


  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    No 'Check Engine Light' = No Codes!


    I'd get a different dealer, or at least talk to someone else at that dealer.


    There's a lot of codes that are reset after 3 starts or 40 starts. These will remain in 'history' and can be seen.


    But - if you have a constant 'miss', that Cadillac's computer should be setting a code. If plugs are miss-firing, it will capture which plug is doing it.


    Now if what you have is a fluctating idle speed, that probably would not set a code.


    There is an Idle Air Control. It may need to be removed and cleaned up. The air ports to it should also be cleaned. Do you have an indication of a 'sticky' throttle? If so, this might be causeing the idle changes. What needs to be done is clean the throttle blade and intake areas around he blade with carb cleaner, toothbrush, and lots of rags. There could be a lot of crud on the throttle and it does not cleanly close, or open up cleanly as you press the footfeed.


    Be carefull (too late now) with fuel injector cleaners in the gas. They have been known to eat the insulation off fuel pump motors and injector coils.


    There are several other Cadillac Forums out there with extensive areas which should tell you how to put your car into diagnoistic mode (Cadillacs in last 15 years will do this), read the codes, and a database giving basic information as to what the codes mean.


    I can't give a link to these, Edmunds doesn't like posting links, but googling searches should find them for you.


    If you don't Do It Yourself on repairs, and would just like to start throwing parts at a miss, I would recommend changing the wires and plugs at 74,000 miles. Your Florida (isn't that where you said you are at?) heat, humidity, and salt could make these fail before the 100,000 miles the manual indicates. Use AC plugs only, 41-950 I think, platium. Probably should use factory wires also. This is not cheap. Plugs are $6 each and wires will be about $125...


    One of the coil packs could also be failing causing a miss.....
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,702
    >Be carefull (too late now) with fuel injector cleaners in the gas. They have been known to eat the insulation off fuel pump motors and injector coils.


    I've not heard this before. Do you have a link to some informationn about this problem?


    >throttle blade and intake areas around he blade with carb cleaner, toothbrush, and lots of rags.


    Be careful with the toothbrush: the cleaner I used softened the bristles and they started coming out of the plastic brush handle.

    This message has been approved.

  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I have used synthetic fuel cleaners without any obvious problems in my 98 Aurora. Chevron makes one. So far I have not used one in the Seville.


    I did some checking and find that boomer1b is right, the deVilles and Sevilles all used a variable suspension. I think that my 2002 Seville LS does not, but that is not completely clear either. I do know that replacing the worn parts is expensive, but if you intend to keep your car for a few additional years, I don't think it is that expensive.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,702
    I've used only the TEchron by Chevron additives.

    The package is supposed to be the same great cleaner they use in their gasoline, only more concentrated for the obvious purpose.


    I hope it doesn't do damage as described above. I'd expect that from some of the heavily advertised, alcohol-based additives.

    This message has been approved.

  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    Heres a quickie try to see if you have bad wires or coil packs. I assume your Caddy does not have the coil on plug that is common on the new GMs.


    Take a spray bottle of water and spray the wires, coil packs, and spark plug heads and see if you have a miss..........


    Do coil packs, then plug wires seperately...So you will be able to track down which one is bad.

    Try and do it after dark and you can see the spark jumping on the wires...........


    CAUTION: Wear leather/rubber gloves and use eye protection !!!!!!!!!!
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