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Cadillac DeVille

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Comments

  • fmilymnfmilymn Posts: 13
    Thanks for the resistor and after market tips boomer! How exactly would one go about the cob fix? Sure is irritating. $2500 is probably the trade in value on this car! I know they wanted $100 at the junk yard for a different headlight. Needless to say clear silicone fixed that problem.

     

    I added the powder slowly through the filler hole before all the fluid was added. All the settings work fine and the door checks out fine. I have a low heat condition and was guessing the core is partially clogged......if that's possible. Guess there's only one way to find out. Have to wait for a decent day when time permits. I'm fixen to buy a different car and let my boy have this when he turns 16. It's in no hurry. He turned 12 in Dec.. It'll be a great back up ride until then.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I assume that this fix is for the computerized suspension that is on the Deville Concour (now DTS). The base Deville has conventional stuts shock absorbers I think.
  • Have a 97 w/74K on it. Rpm fluctuates 175-250

    at idle and ALL speeds.Dealer test drove-did it 1-2 times.but NOT at the shop.Checked fuel pressure-40LB Ok. I put two bottles of injector cleaner in

    have driven about 60-70 mileseems some better but,just did it again as I came home.Any ideas as to what it may be..?? Have chg'd the fuel filter

    about 3 days ago-no help..Dealer says cause no check eng. light on = the scope will not show anything ??

     

                                  Yks, Deadeye
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    No check engine or SES light ?

    Did the dealer hook it up to the computer?

    Intermitent missing.........

     

    You do know that there is a procedure outlined in your owners manual to check your car for any codes that are stored or current?

     

    When was the last time you had new plugs or wires?

    Is the weather in your area rainy, wet, cold ?
  • TKS for comeback...

     

    dealer did NOT hookup--Said "If Check Eng light was not on-hookup would show 0"

     

    Will check manual for codes....

     

    No plugs or wires.(74K mi.) manual shows 100K

     

    In NW Fla. Warm-Humid--No rain

     

                                Deadeye
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    No 'Check Engine Light' = No Codes!

     

    I'd get a different dealer, or at least talk to someone else at that dealer.

     

    There's a lot of codes that are reset after 3 starts or 40 starts. These will remain in 'history' and can be seen.

     

    But - if you have a constant 'miss', that Cadillac's computer should be setting a code. If plugs are miss-firing, it will capture which plug is doing it.

     

    Now if what you have is a fluctating idle speed, that probably would not set a code.

     

    There is an Idle Air Control. It may need to be removed and cleaned up. The air ports to it should also be cleaned. Do you have an indication of a 'sticky' throttle? If so, this might be causeing the idle changes. What needs to be done is clean the throttle blade and intake areas around he blade with carb cleaner, toothbrush, and lots of rags. There could be a lot of crud on the throttle and it does not cleanly close, or open up cleanly as you press the footfeed.

     

    Be carefull (too late now) with fuel injector cleaners in the gas. They have been known to eat the insulation off fuel pump motors and injector coils.

     

    There are several other Cadillac Forums out there with extensive areas which should tell you how to put your car into diagnoistic mode (Cadillacs in last 15 years will do this), read the codes, and a database giving basic information as to what the codes mean.

     

    I can't give a link to these, Edmunds doesn't like posting links, but googling searches should find them for you.

     

    If you don't Do It Yourself on repairs, and would just like to start throwing parts at a miss, I would recommend changing the wires and plugs at 74,000 miles. Your Florida (isn't that where you said you are at?) heat, humidity, and salt could make these fail before the 100,000 miles the manual indicates. Use AC plugs only, 41-950 I think, platium. Probably should use factory wires also. This is not cheap. Plugs are $6 each and wires will be about $125...

     

    One of the coil packs could also be failing causing a miss.....
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    >Be carefull (too late now) with fuel injector cleaners in the gas. They have been known to eat the insulation off fuel pump motors and injector coils.

     

    I've not heard this before. Do you have a link to some informationn about this problem?

     

    >throttle blade and intake areas around he blade with carb cleaner, toothbrush, and lots of rags.

     

    Be careful with the toothbrush: the cleaner I used softened the bristles and they started coming out of the plastic brush handle.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I have used synthetic fuel cleaners without any obvious problems in my 98 Aurora. Chevron makes one. So far I have not used one in the Seville.

     

    I did some checking and find that boomer1b is right, the deVilles and Sevilles all used a variable suspension. I think that my 2002 Seville LS does not, but that is not completely clear either. I do know that replacing the worn parts is expensive, but if you intend to keep your car for a few additional years, I don't think it is that expensive.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    I've used only the TEchron by Chevron additives.

    The package is supposed to be the same great cleaner they use in their gasoline, only more concentrated for the obvious purpose.

     

    I hope it doesn't do damage as described above. I'd expect that from some of the heavily advertised, alcohol-based additives.
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    Heres a quickie try to see if you have bad wires or coil packs. I assume your Caddy does not have the coil on plug that is common on the new GMs.

     

    Take a spray bottle of water and spray the wires, coil packs, and spark plug heads and see if you have a miss..........

     

     
    Do coil packs, then plug wires seperately...So you will be able to track down which one is bad.

    Try and do it after dark and you can see the spark jumping on the wires...........

     

    CAUTION: Wear leather/rubber gloves and use eye protection !!!!!!!!!!
  • I recently traded for 92 Deville with 100,000 one owner miles. My problem is horrible engine miss & backfiring. No codes & no service light. New plugs, wires, injector cleaner, & drove several miles to clean injectors. Engine runs great after warms up. Can't sell like this!!
  • Tks again for the tips..Drove it 8-10 miles today-ran great !Wonder if the injector cleaner is working ??? Tho-will use less in the future after your "Fuel pump , coil erosion prob Horror story"

     

    If it occurs again tomorrow,will try the water spray trick in the dark..

     

                      Thankful Deadeye sends...
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    <I've not heard this before. Do you have a link to some informationn about this problem? >

     

    As I said, Edmunds doesn't like links to competitor message boards.

     

    But the 'resident expert' on the board strongly discourages using injector cleaners. He notes that the motor coils in the fuel pump and the windings in the injectors are exposed to fuel. Anything that might eat up the insulation on the windings will kill them......
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    I can share the method for 'problem' cases of injectors needing cleaning from a real mechanic.

    Drive the fuel level down low. Add Chevron Techron to the tank, then add premium fuel (name brand station) up to the number of gallons for the size bottle you bought, 12 or 20.

    Drive that tank down near empty. Repeat the process.

     

    Do not use again for several thousand miles; if it didn't help that time, it is not the problem.

     

     
    Spark plug wires: put a pinch of salt in the water to make it more conductive. I then wait till engine is cool later, and spray off the wires with plain water to wash off the salt (with all the salt used on the roads here in winter, they're probably coated with salt powder already).

    I have felt the car change within 50 miles or so with injector cleaner put in that way.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    If the cleaner is supposed to be added to about 12 gallons of fuel, then two bottles could be put into a 20 gallon tank. I think that is what I did for the Aurora. I tried that to clean up the problem that was caused by the fuel pressure regulator. The cleaner did not help and when I explained the symptoms to the service manager, they said they would check it out. Later in the day they said I needed a new regulator.

     

    My Seville has 31000 miles on it, and thus far I have not run any cleaner through it. It seems to run fine, so I am not concerned.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    "Drive the fuel level down low. Add Chevron Techron to the tank, then add premium fuel (name brand station) up to the number of gallons for the size bottle you bought, 12 or 20."

     

    Techron 'might' be safe.

     

    But the other board's 'resident expert' warned against exactly this procedure. Adding the cleaner, then driving down to add gas. He says he has seen the high concentration (cleaner plus low gas level) injure a fuel pump by the time it gets to the station.....

     

    The fuel pumps may not immediately totally die, but start to not deliver full pressure and pull excessive current which also burns up the wiring at the tank connector.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    The Techron is added to the tank at the gas pump. The idea is that the high initial concentration would dissolve gunk in the tank better as the gas is pumped in to the maximum for that size bottle.

     

    The car is NOT driven with additive in a couple gallons of fuel.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    The primary reason to add the cleaner to a low tank of fuel at the gas station!!!, is so that as you then fill the tank with gas, the gas pouring into the tank will stir up the cleaner and mix it with the gas.

     

    My owners manual is quite explict about using methanol vs ethanol. Grain alcohol is OK, but the methanol is not. So, do not use any cleaners that have methanol in them. A synthetic cleaner is probably the best, but check the ingredients on the can/bottle to see what it says.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    Re: Cleaning injectors and fuel system on DeVille.

     

    The same radio talk show mechanic talked about Techron by Chevron again today to a caller. He explained that the Chevron additives that have been highly rated for years are the reason Shell has added their V-Power premium fuel line. (Perhaps the high octane, slow-burning fuels need the extra cleaners.)

     

    He says other major brands will be improving their additive mix and coming out with extra cleaners in a premium cost fuel soon.

     

    >My owners manual is quite explict about using methanol vs ethanol.

     

    I hope I didn't imply the Techron is another mouse milk additive to transfer money from your pocket to the selling company without giving much in return if anything for your car. I doubt it even contains methanol. I'll reread the bottle when I pick up another one.
  • rdesmanrdesman Posts: 43
    I want to purchase a factory direct GM extended warraranty for my 2002 Deville. Can anyone suggest an authorized seller who sells over the internet---cheap would be nice.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    The Techron is good stuff. I was pointing out that anyone buying fuel injection cleaner should probably avoid anything with methanol in it.

     

    I think that Amoco advertised their premium grade fuel to have extra cleaners in them some time ago. Gasoline in general has detergents in it to keep the cars fuel system clean. Name brands probably have more cleaners than "cheaper un-branded" fuels.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    I agree about the quality of cleaners in name brand fuels probably being better than the small brand stations who buy fuel from the wholesaler odd lots spot market.

     

    I have trouble with the concept that regular grade shouldn't have the same high quality detergent-like chemicals that go into premium fuels; that is, unless the premium fuel leaves behind more trash and requires better cleaners to keep the cars running right -- I suspect the latter is true.

     

    Here in Ohio we have no gasoline quality control statewide, so you may be getting any garbage the brand/offbrand companies pipe in that they couldn't sell in states who do check quality at the pump. A few county people have started doing checks in Ohio. But occasionally we get fuel that isn't up to par sold here. So occasionally I use inject cleaners.

     

    I normally use Shell and Mobile. Occasionally Marathon sold through a large discount department store chain from Michigan. None have alcohol in them up to the 10% allowed.

     

    If you use premium in your Northstar, an occasional cleaner should be standard maintenance.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I looked through some of the websites maintained by the name brand oil companies. I think that there is a standard for gasolines that requires a certain amount of cleaners. Now, if they want to add extra to their premium grades (or even regular grades), there is nothing wrong with that. There is nothing wrong with making the premium grade significantly over the standard (for example 4 times as much for the "ultimate" cleaning fuel) and then advertising that it will clean better.

     

    I do think adding a fuel system cleaner now and then may be good idea to keep problems with build up from happening.

     

    At my last oil change (last week), I had the Chevy/Cadillac dealer put Mobil-1 in the crankcase. My oil monitor is giving me around 10,000 miles between changes, so synthetic is not too expensive - about $40 more, but now I am not worried about sludge building up.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might want to do a little investigating - here's a link to a discussion that should help: Extended Warranties.
  • I have been trying to find out info on this as well...I am trying to determine the added cost to buying a vehicle from a dealer...how much more should a vehicle cost if the extended warranty is added. Most dealers won't speak about it or reveal the cost. I want to determine if an asking price for a vehicle with this warranty is fair. Might you be able top help answer the question? Thanks, Jack Kennedy
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Click on the link in my post just prior to yours for help with that - that discussion is a great resource.
  • 1992 cadillac deville no heat,changed everything i know of

     i just found this site. can you please tell me what you found out?

    thanks, randy
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Plugged heater core?

     

    Get your hands on both water hoses to the heater core, after the car is warmed up. If one is hot, one cold, it's clogged.
  • I recently traded for 92 Deville with 100,000 one owner miles. My problem is horrible engine miss & backfiring. No codes & no service light. New plugs, wires, injector cleaner, & drove several miles to clean injectors. Engine runs great after warms up. Can't sell like this!!
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